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Thanks guys, it worked . I used a long torque wrench like a breaker bar and I did a quick snap like JBell told me to do.
Now don’t tighten it like the guy before, just “snug” is enough. One of the advantages of the RimX, you can take the barrel of from time to time for a clean and breech polishing. Receiver is easier to clean too with the barrel off.
 
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RimX, anschutz barrel, MPA, TT, ARC rings, zco and a ec tuner.
 

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I just picked up my RimX action and magazine. I just noticed the magazine hangs - I pull down the follower and it won't spring back up on its own. There seems to be plenty of spring weight, but I think the follower is hanging up in its channel.

Is this a known issue with an easy fix, or should I contact Zermatt for a replacement?
 
I just picked up my RimX action and magazine. I just noticed the magazine hangs - I pull down the follower and it won't spring back up on its own. There seems to be plenty of spring weight, but I think the follower is hanging up in its channel.

Is this a known issue with an easy fix, or should I contact Zermatt for a replacement?
Mine did that initially as well. I used some dry lube (may be graphite?) And it's never been a problem since.
 
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I just picked up my RimX action and magazine. I just noticed the magazine hangs - I pull down the follower and it won't spring back up on its own. There seems to be plenty of spring weight, but I think the follower is hanging up in its channel.

Is this a known issue with an easy fix, or should I contact Zermatt for a replacement?
Put some rounds through it and it’ll go away
 
Hoping some of the knowledgeable folks here can help me. Trying to get my new rifle setup before a rimfire match and I am a bit short on time.

I just picked up my RimX action and a Proof Pre-fit Carbon Fiber barrel. Installed the barrel into the action and the bolt won’t drop on my go gauge (extractors removed). However, it will chamber a live round (extractors installed for, um, extraction), with a small amount of crush pressure on the rim.

Is this “ok” for this action/barrel, or am I screwed for the match?

(I realize how bad it is to setup a rifle the day before, but my normal rifle is being repaired.
 
If you are taking about the gauge that comes with the action, that is a NO go gauge. A little pressure on the rm is o.k.; too much and you risk unnecessary/undesirable wear. It’s hard to say exactly how much pressure is the right amount, and different ammo will have differing rim thickness. Based on the limited info you provided, I think you are probably o.k. But it is hard to be sure w/o handling the action.
 
Hoping some of the knowledgeable folks here can help me. Trying to get my new rifle setup before a rimfire match and I am a bit short on time.

I just picked up my RimX action and a Proof Pre-fit Carbon Fiber barrel. Installed the barrel into the action and the bolt won’t drop on my go gauge (extractors removed). However, it will chamber a live round (extractors installed for, um, extraction), with a small amount of crush pressure on the rim.

Is this “ok” for this action/barrel, or am I screwed for the match?

(I realize how bad it is to setup a rifle the day before, but my normal rifle is being repaired.
The supplied Zermatt Gauge is a "NO GO" gauge so the bolt shouldn't fall when inserted. Explained here from about minute 16:00 onward.
 
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The supplied Zermatt Gauge is a "NO GO" gauge so the bolt shouldn't fall when inserted. Explained here from about minute 16:00 onward.


I was using my own go/no-go gauges. Neither of the no-go gauges would close (which I checked first) but my go-gauge would also not close.
 
I was using my own go/no-go gauges. Neither of the no-go gauges would close (which I checked first) but my go-gauge would also not close.
Have you verified your gauges are spec'd to the Zermatt drawings? Otherwise, I personally would just go with the Zermatt NoGo.
 
Have you verified your gauges are spec'd to the Zermatt drawings? Otherwise, I personally would just go with the Zermatt NoGo.
I have not, but I haven’t seen the drawings. Will try and find them to check. Thank you.
 
Hoping some of the knowledgeable folks here can help me. Trying to get my new rifle setup before a rimfire match and I am a bit short on time.

I just picked up my RimX action and a Proof Pre-fit Carbon Fiber barrel. Installed the barrel into the action and the bolt won’t drop on my go gauge (extractors removed). However, it will chamber a live round (extractors installed for, um, extraction), with a small amount of crush pressure on the rim.

Is this “ok” for this action/barrel, or am I screwed for the match?

(I realize how bad it is to setup a rifle the day before, but my normal rifle is being repaired.
If the bolt closes with the barrel installed and does not close with the no-go gauge we supplied, it's perfectly safe to shoot.

Thank you - Ray
 
If the bolt closes with the barrel installed and does not close with the no-go gauge we supplied, it's perfectly safe to shoot.

Thank you - Ray

Thanks Ray - it does close an I put ~150 rounds down the tube yesterday to sight it in. Shoots great.

Question on bolt close pressure. There is a small amount of pressure as I lower the bolt (loaded or unloaded). I'm just curious if this is expected?
 
Thanks Ray - it does close an I put ~150 rounds down the tube yesterday to sight it in. Shoots great.

Question on bolt close pressure. There is a small amount of pressure as I lower the bolt (loaded or unloaded). I'm just curious if this is expected?
That's a really tough question to answer as feel is totally subjective. Does it happen without a round in the chamber as well?
 
That's a really tough question to answer as feel is totally subjective. Does it happen without a round in the chamber as well?
Yes, happens without anything in the chamber. Does it cock on up-stroke or down-stroke?

I could use my trigger gauge to try and get a weight, but it's not super heavy at all. Just consistent pressure on the downward stroke.
 
Yes, happens without anything in the chamber. Does it cock on up-stroke or down-stroke?

I could use my trigger gauge to try and get a weight, but it's not super heavy at all. Just consistent pressure on the downward stroke.

Ok, just ran some tests. If I push the bolt forward and engage the locking lugs (get beyond the 45 degree mark), it requires about 1.75-2lbs of pressure to lower the bolt completely. This is a measurement using my rigged trigger pull gauge (read: not the most accurate measurement of pressure)

I removed the bolt head to ensure there isn't any pressure on the barrel, and attempted the same with the bolt body/handle, and the pressure is the same. So it doesn't appear to be related to the barrel, just the lockup of the bolt.

I assume this is "ok". I guess I should try by pulling the rear portion of the bolt out just to ensure it's only the locking lug pressure.
 
Thanks Ray - it does close an I put ~150 rounds down the tube yesterday to sight it in. Shoots great.

Question on bolt close pressure. There is a small amount of pressure as I lower the bolt (loaded or unloaded). I'm just curious if this is expected?
What trigger? I bet you have too much sear to cocking piece engagement.
 
Ok, just ran some tests. If I push the bolt forward and engage the locking lugs (get beyond the 45 degree mark), it requires about 1.75-2lbs of pressure to lower the bolt completely. This is a measurement using my rigged trigger pull gauge (read: not the most accurate measurement of pressure)

I removed the bolt head to ensure there isn't any pressure on the barrel, and attempted the same with the bolt body/handle, and the pressure is the same. So it doesn't appear to be related to the barrel, just the lockup of the bolt.

I assume this is "ok". I guess I should try by pulling the rear portion of the bolt out just to ensure it's only the locking lug pressure.
Make sure you've got grease on the stem of the bolt head inside of the bolt body and around the stem of the shroud inside of the bolt body. These areas are greased in assembly but sometimes people think they need to clean it out. Don't clean it out without replacing it.

It could be a burr on the inside of the bolt somewhere. I understand you're quantifying the force, but it's not repeatable so the subjectivity remains and the only way to remove that is to inspect it here. We're happy to do that if you don't feel it's adequate.

Just let me know if you'd like to pursue sending it in for inspection. [email protected]

Thank you
 
Make sure you've got grease on the stem of the bolt head inside of the bolt body and around the stem of the shroud inside of the bolt body. These areas are greased in assembly but sometimes people think they need to clean it out. Don't clean it out without replacing it.

It could be a burr on the inside of the bolt somewhere. I understand you're quantifying the force, but it's not repeatable so the subjectivity remains and the only way to remove that is to inspect it here. We're happy to do that if you don't feel it's adequate.

Just let me know if you'd like to pursue sending it in for inspection. [email protected]

Thank you

The inside of the bolt is greased (from factory - I haven't cleaned it). Additionally I greased the lugs and it slides well.

I took the back of the bolt off, and the body drops in the action without any effort whatsoever. So it seems tied to the rotation of the bolt back (I don't know what that's called) against the arm.

I want to point out that the pressure here is not a ton at all, and is consistent throughout the lowering of the bolt. When the bolt is simply held on the table and the handle is rotated down, it feels awefully similar. So appears to be the rotation of the bolt back?

I also want to add that this could be 100% perfectly functional and fine. I'm just being paranoid
 
The inside of the bolt is greased (from factory - I haven't cleaned it). Additionally I greased the lugs and it slides well.

I took the back of the bolt off, and the body drops in the action without any effort whatsoever. So it seems tied to the rotation of the bolt back (I don't know what that's called) against the arm.

I want to point out that the pressure here is not a ton at all, and is consistent throughout the lowering of the bolt. When the bolt is simply held on the table and the handle is rotated down, it feels awefully similar. So appears to be the rotation of the bolt back?

I also want to add that this could be 100% perfectly functional and fine. I'm just being paranoid
Removing the firing pin assembly is removing all of the spring pressure so it makes sense what you're experiencing. With the assembly installed in a fully assembled rifle, there will always be some force to close the bolt.

I haven't read anything that would indicate a problem but I'll be happy to bring it in to remove all doubt. Shoot me an email if that's what you'd like to do.

Thanks - Ray
 
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Removing the firing pin assembly is removing all of the spring pressure so it makes sense what you're experiencing. With the assembly installed in a fully assembled rifle, there will always be some force to close the bolt.

I haven't read anything that would indicate a problem but I'll be happy to bring it in to remove all doubt. Shoot me an email if that's what you'd like to do.

Thanks - Ray

Will do. Agreed with previous posts - amazing service.

But before I do, need to shoot the match :) Tack driver at the range.
 
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Finally got out to test the first barrel from Mike @ https://www.manzellaprecision.com/ . The machine work on these barrels are excellent. Amazing fit and finish. The thread to receiver fit is perfect, no wobble when screwing the action on the barrel. Nice engraving on the driving bands on a chambered round and zero issues extracting a live round. High polished chamber and chamfer. No lead shaving after shooting 100rd...

It didn't disappoint! Started hammering from the first rounds down the barrel.

20" Bartlein M24
1/2-28 rimfire muzzle threads
22LR Match Eachus chamber
XLR Envy chassis
BnA TacSport Pro 2 Stage
Athlon Cronus Gen2 BTR

Shot from a SEB NEO







Here is the first 12rd down the barrel of SK+ to zero at 50yd. After adjusting zero with the first 4 shots, the rest shot into a nice clover leaf.

I then took an opened box of Center X that had 10rd left in it and shot 2 five shot groups. Top center first, then the left group.






I then shot these 4 5x5's at 50yd...starting with the top row and down row by row I shot 3 lots of Center X and then 1 lot of R50 across the bottom row....that 3rd line down, last lot of CenterX was really shining compared to the rest. Not a bad 0.292" 5x5 AGG!



We had rain coming, breeze was kicking up and it was starting to spit. Decided to shoot a few groups at 100yd and get out of there since the breeze was really starting to blow.

That 28554 lot of CenterX was really shining at 50 and 100yd! R50 performed better at 100 than at 50.





This is 3x5 of R50






Can't wait to get out and get some more rounds down this barrel. Especially at 100, 200 and 300yd. Very impressed with the results with 100rd or so down the barrel!!


I also have a 1.2" Straight GM 4140 20" barrel from Manzella to test next. Stay tuned....
 
@padom that looks stellar! I have a bartlein blank at Mikes that's gonna get the same chamber(I believe) for my rimX. Looking forward to getting that lil build back!
 
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@padom that looks stellar! I have a bartlein blank at Mikes that's gonna get the same chamber(I believe) for my rimX. Looking forward to getting that lil build back!

It was hammering from the get go! And really started to shine once it found the lot it liked. Can't wait to stretch it out now
 
Hi All!

I have a Rim-X action and a new 22" Bartlein barrel headed my way from Bison tactical. So far, I've only gotten a Jewell trigger and spare magazine for this. I'm having a hard time deciding on which chassis or stock to get. I read there were some issues with magazine seating with the Rim-X with various chassis, is this still an issue? As for optics, I have a Minox that is a take off form another rifle I plan to use on this build.

Jerry
 
Hi All!

I have a Rim-X action and a new 22" Bartlein barrel headed my way from Bison tactical. So far, I've only gotten a Jewell trigger and spare magazine for this. I'm having a hard time deciding on which chassis or stock to get. I read there were some issues with magazine seating with the Rim-X with various chassis, is this still an issue? As for optics, I have a Minox that is a take off form another rifle I plan to use on this build.

Jerry
My .02, if you’re going to be doing any positional shooting or competitions you’ll want a stock that isn’t super rear heavy. The shorter barrels on rimfire can make overall rifle balance a little harder to tune. A couple of my chassis need tons of weight out front to balance, but my KRG Bravo balances nicely. The adjustable mag that comes with RimX has made feeding easy to tubes for all the stocks/chassis I’ve tried.
 
My .02, if you’re going to be doing any positional shooting or competitions you’ll want a stock that isn’t super rear heavy. The shorter barrels on rimfire can make overall rifle balance a little harder to tune. A couple of my chassis need tons of weight out front to balance, but my KRG Bravo balances nicely. The adjustable mag that comes with RimX has made feeding easy to tubes for all the stocks/chassis I’ve tried.
I'm building this more as a plinker, but if I do ever make time to shoot a match locally, yes, I understand the balance may become an issue. This gun is more for fun than anything else. Thank you for the info though!

I just put my action in a manners tsc and adjusted the mags without the barrel on. Took all of five minute’s
Right, when I read this, I was trying to understand what kind of possible issues people could be having with a chassis, I mean if there is a limited built into the magazine, why is it/was it an issue?
 
Took awhile, but it's together and a lot of fun to shoot. Bell and Carlson Stock, Zermatt from Northlands. Barrel was a bit of a hassle. Ordered a Lothar Walther from Optics Planet and they kept sending me updates that my order was postponed. After 3 months, I canceled through them and ordered a custom barrel directly from Lothar Walther. After 2 more months of hearing nothing, my order was never in their system. Then the operator said they had the barrels in stock and could pull one off the shelf, well duh went that route. Then I get the barrel, install it myself, and find out that the tennon is too long and can't close the bolt. Send it back, few weeks later get a new barrel. This one headspaces OK and seems to be working fine. No pictures of groups as I haven't had it to 100 yards yet, but I'm sure it will be a performer.


R91h26k.jpg
 
One real quick point for everyone ordering extractors and questioning their composition:

COLOR IS NOT AN INDICATOR OF THE REVISION OF YOUR EXTRACTOR. All of the extractors being produced and that have been produced for well over 18 months now have been Rev2 produced with S7 rather than A2. The heat treat process does not leave a consistent color from lot to lot. Just because you see a darker color does NOT mean you have a Rev1 extractor.

We don't have any Rev1 extractors and won't produce any more. Rest assured, if you're ordering spares from us, they're the most up to date product we have.

Thanks - Ray
 
I yesterday I took delivery of a very slightly used RimX barreled action. I am aware of the potential hazards that can be caused by dry firing. With dry fire being a component of my practicing, I thought it best to remove the firing pin. There are two youtube videos illustrating how to do just that. Each of them make it appear as simple as dirt. Simply pull upwards at angle and continue to pull while increasing the angle and the pin will simply pivot out of the C clip that holds it attached.

Well, mine, does not do that. I have manipulated it from all available angles with increasing degrees of force within reason and the C clip will not relinquish its hold of the pin. I have sent an inquiry to Zermatt but being the weekend I was hoping I might get some advice here as I'm anxious to try out the Trigger Tech Diamond it came with. Thanks for any advice. Dan ( Canada )
 
I yesterday I took delivery of a very slightly used RimX barreled action. I am aware of the potential hazards that can be caused by dry firing. With dry fire being a component of my practicing, I thought it best to remove the firing pin. There are two youtube videos illustrating how to do just that. Each of them make it appear as simple as dirt. Simply pull upwards at angle and continue to pull while increasing the angle and the pin will simply pivot out of the C clip that holds it attached.

Well, mine, does not do that. I have manipulated it from all available angles with increasing degrees of force within reason and the C clip will not relinquish its hold of the pin. I have sent an inquiry to Zermatt but being the weekend I was hoping I might get some advice here as I'm anxious to try out the Trigger Tech Diamond it came with. Thanks for any advice. Dan ( Canada )
You have to put a little more force the first time you do. I had the same issue. Just tilt it back and until it comes out just be careful not to bend it.
 
Thanks Drwho. Exactly as you suggested. The two videos I watched including Orkan's show the firing pin nose virtually falling out. Mine was very snug but as suggested held it firmly by the thickest portion and it did come away. I sure like that Trigger Tech Diamond.
 
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R50 in stock @ Creedmoor Sports for those looking for tiny groups, especially at distance.


 
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Took awhile, but it's together and a lot of fun to shoot. Bell and Carlson Stock, Zermatt from Northlands. Barrel was a bit of a hassle. Ordered a Lothar Walther from Optics Planet and they kept sending me updates that my order was postponed. After 3 months, I canceled through them and ordered a custom barrel directly from Lothar Walther. After 2 more months of hearing nothing, my order was never in their system. Then the operator said they had the barrels in stock and could pull one off the shelf, well duh went that route. Then I get the barrel, install it myself, and find out that the tennon is too long and can't close the bolt. Send it back, few weeks later get a new barrel. This one headspaces OK and seems to be working fine. No pictures of groups as I haven't had it to 100 yards yet, but I'm sure it will be a performer.


R91h26k.jpg
I used one of these stocks on my 1st Jelrod converted 40X repeater. Was an excellent shooter in that stock, with a Benchmark 3-groove bbl chambered with an EPS reamer. No waiting on one of these stocks, unless I want it in a paint color that they don't have in stock - and even then, I can get one in a week. Am looking forward to hearing how your LW bbl shoots once you get a chance to do some shooting with it!