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Gunsmithing Remington 700 DBM opinions from guys that put them in.....and use them.

I hope they do this with mine…..

www.snipershide.com

Gunsmithing - Wood taps...

Putting a "sorta" period correct rifle together for a gent. The stock work was something he handled the bulk of. We just got the metal back from parkerizing and while putting it together Kalyb noticed that the wood around the rear swivel was starting to lift along the grain due to the thread...
www.snipershide.com www.snipershide.com


Hey wait a minute…….
 
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pmclaine said:
I hope they do this with mine…..

www.snipershide.com

Gunsmithing - Wood taps...

Putting a "sorta" period correct rifle together for a gent. The stock work was something he handled the bulk of. We just got the metal back from parkerizing and while putting it together Kalyb noticed that the wood around the rear swivel was starting to lift along the grain due to the thread...
www.snipershide.com www.snipershide.com


Hey wait a minute…….
Click to expand...
Is it yours?
 
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image.jpg
 
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Yeah we know you popped that box open. Cough up the pics!
 
Bigfatcock said:
Lol. Very nice looking rifle. Looks like som oil staining on the buttstock. I’d do some acetone wipes before applying finish. I’m assuming linseed oil?
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Good call on the acetone…thank you for suggesting it as I would have blown through that step in my eagerness.

Wonder how LRI attaches their Pachmayer pads. I’m used to seeing a cross cut at the screw placements so you can unscrew the pad for finishing/replacing. This one is sans cuts so they must epoxy it on.

I’ll just tape the crap out of it so it won’t get oiled.

Gonna use tung oil. Linseed will go too dark. I got wet sand paper from 400 to 2000 grit and some rotten stone.

This is the first I have held a Beaver M40 stock….I had it shipped direct to LRI.

It is a solid hunk of walnut…

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Bigfatcock said:
Are you going to use pure tung oil?
Click to expand...
Real Milk Paint PTO with their citrus oil to cut the first few coats than very light coats of full strength to follow.

I’ll be missing some good strong sunlight to cure it.
 
I use thinned finishes as initial soaking coats. I slather it on heavy, let it sit, and add more oil to any spots with more absorption. Then wipe off before it turns tacky. I tend to do that until I get even coats with no thirsty spots.

Once I hit that point is when I start to build the finish with the application of less cut or uncut finish. That seems to work best for me to build depth and bring out the chatoyance.

Pure tung should give a satin finish. That wood has some nice natural color in it. I’d be tempted to add a wash coat with some red and orange in it though, lol.
 
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Bigfatcock said:
I use thinned finishes as initial soaking coats. I slather it on heavy, let it sit, and add more oil to any spots with more absorption. Then wipe off before it turns tacky. I tend to do that until I get even coats with no thirsty spots.

Once I hit that point is when I start to build the finish with the application of less cut or uncut finish. That seems to work best for me to build depth and bring out the chatoyance.

Pure tung should give a satin finish. That wood has some nice natural color in it. I’d be tempted to add a wash coat with some red and orange in it though, lol.
Click to expand...
I thought of putting some minwax or similar stain that has a red tinge.

Tung oil seems too stable and never imparts color like linseed will over time.

This guy is a little darker than I want it to be but I am not near done yet.

Next coats will be put on with the 600 wet paper.

I have 1500 and 2000 after that.

I also have rotten stone.

Any idea what cut rotten stone would be considered?

Was thinking I would use the rotten stone with a microfiber cloth for the final full strength oil coats.
 
Not always is tung oil satin either.

That M40 photo on the shooting bench is all RMP PTO and it’s pretty glossy.

I had to work to have it gloss though, sometimes it will, sometimes it becomes a sticky mess.

Sunlight is my friend when I do this…..all I have now with this low horizon sun is my boiler room and heat.
 
It’s hard to tell the colors from the photos. This is a stock I would probably use Alkanet on, or one of my other coloring methods to strengthen the red and oranges. Maybe a splash of yellow.

The curl looks good, but again I’d have to see in person to decide if I needed a pre stain conditioner to prevent blotch.

Did you grain fill, or do you plan to?
 
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pmclaine said:
Not always is tung oil satin either.

That M40 photo on the shooting bench is all RMP PTO and it’s pretty glossy.

I had to work to have it gloss though, sometimes it will, sometimes it becomes a sticky mess.

Sunlight is my friend when I do this…..all I have now with this low horizon sun is my boiler room and heat.
Click to expand...
I’d always put a bit of finish on a piece of tape or something after each coat to tell if it cured or not. Once the finish on the tape was dry, the. I knew it was probably good in the stock and ready for next coat.

Honestly though, I’m just musing on a Sunday morning. No flies on that stock as it is now, and it’ll look really nice when done. You’ll have to beat the ho’s off with a stick!

As many stocks as you do, it might be time for you to build a curing box. Super easy to make, and you can control the temp, and humidity in any weather conditions. If you want UV for linseed finish, stick a lizard light in there.
 
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Bigfatcock said:
It’s hard to tell the colors from the photos. This is a stock I would probably use Alkanet on, or one of my other coloring methods to strengthen the red and oranges. Maybe a splash of yellow.

The curl looks good, but again I’d have to see in person to decide if I needed a pre stain conditioner to prevent blotch.

Did you grain fill, or do you plan to?
Click to expand...
Only grain fill will come from the light sand slurry being rubbed into the pores as I apply the oil.

First two coats were with 400 grit.

Glad I hit it with acetone at your suggestion took a lot of carbon black off likely left over from fitting. I wouldn’t want that in my oil mix.
 
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Bigfatcock said:
I’d always put a bit of finish on a piece of tape or something after each coat to tell if it cured or not. Once the finish on the tape was dry, the. I knew it was probably good in the stock and ready for next coat.

Honestly though, I’m just musing on a Sunday morning. No flies on that stock as it is now, and it’ll look really nice when done. You’ll have to beat the ho’s off with a stick!

As many stocks as you do, it might be time for you to build a curing box. Super easy to make, and you can control the temp, and humidity in any weather conditions. If you want UV for linseed finish, stick a lizard light in there.
Click to expand...
This will likely be the last stock I do.

After this it’s maintenance only….a dime sized drop of oil rubbed between the hands than hit on a finished stock and wiped off.
 
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Who has a good method to fill the engraving on my flush mag?

Unsure if I want silver or gold…gold seeming a little too “Hood” but Silver more fitting for commissioned grades than enlisted.

Checked out the Forster/Brownells products but they may be a disaster trying to clean from the Parkerize finish - filling the pores of the park creating a tell tale haze of filth.
 
pmclaine said:
Who has a good method to fill the engraving on my flush mag?

Unsure if I want silver or gold…gold seeming a little too “Hood” but Silver more fitting for commissioned grades than enlisted.

Checked out the Forster/Brownells products but they may be a disaster trying to clean from the Parkerize finish - filling the pores of the park creating a tell tale haze of filth.
Click to expand...
You might be able to use fine point paint pens. I think you are correct though that the paint will be difficult to remove once it gets into the rough parkerizing. Might also be able to use paint of choice with a very fine brush. Either way will require a steady hand.
 
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lariat said:
You might be able to use fine point paint pens. I think you are correct though that the paint will be difficult to remove once it gets into the rough parkerizing. Might also be able to use paint of choice with a very fine brush. Either way will require a steady hand.
Click to expand...

My buddy Michael J Fox will give me a hand........
 
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I used finger nail polish and let it dry then wiped over it with a stiff cloth and acetone to redo the numbers on my Unertl. I do not know if that will help.
 
Jrb572 said:
I used finger nail polish and let it dry then wiped over it with a stiff cloth and acetone to redo the numbers on my Unertl. I do not know if that will help.
Click to expand...

On a nice smooth blue that is the correct route.

I'm afraid the rough park will "grab" the fill media and become a mess.

Might have to let the flush mag ride a bag and polish the parkerizing for a while before filling it in.
 
That rifle looks gorgeous 😍 Glad to see you finally got it. I'd say the wait was worth it. Can't wait to see some targets. I'm sure it's a hammer.
 
I wouldn’t rotten stone unless building a hard coat finish on a stock that I had grain filled.
 
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Bigfatcock said:
I wouldn’t rotten stone unless building a hard coat finish on a stock that I had grain filled.
Click to expand...

Seems it more like a cut for some thing with a hard sealed surface.

I see it was the "Brasso" of the day during the civil war.

Thank you you saved me a week of putting this rifle together.
 
pmclaine said:
Seems it more like a cut for some thing with a hard sealed surface.

I see it was the "Brasso" of the day during the civil war.

Thank you you saved me a week of putting this rifle together.
Click to expand...
Yeah, it’s more for leveling and polishing something like a varnish finish.

Finishing wood is every bit a skill/art as making things from wood. Practice makes perfect, and your stocks have all come out well.
 
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