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Direct thread keeps coming loose

AR-180

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Sep 28, 2006
357
97
The Triangle, NC
My direct thread suppressor keeps coming loose every few shots. How do you guys avoid this? I tighten it, but I can tell by my groupings when it loosens.
 
What can is it? My TBAC doesn’t come loose on bolts but has on semi’s with same force applied when installing.

A very small dab of purple or blue loctite could help. It beats shooting the can off
 
Tighten it down pretty hard, give it a good torque onto the barrel. Should stay tight for 5-10 rounds. All DT cans never stay tight unless you torque them on with a wrench, or use teflon tape, or vibratite, or a small dab of locktite.
 
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I bought a Omega 36M to run on semis and what not. Simply because I got scared a few times with a loose can
 
Teflon tape or vibratite
+1 on the vibra-tite.

Also use a wrench to tighten.

With Vibra-Tite you don’t need to coat the entire thread. Paint a couple of stripes at opposite sides of the threads.

Let it sit for about 15 minutes per instructions. Then screw the suppressor in place and torque it down with a wrench.

Note however I’ve done this with some rifles and others I just tightened it securely with a wrench. After firing a few rounds check the tightness with a wrench.

When you’re done shooting for the day, loosen the suppressor while it’s still hot.

If not, the steel contracts and the carbon fouling is almost like an enhanced super glue. You will have a royal PITA trying to get it off later.

I use the vibra-tite on rimfire a pistol suppressors. Anti-seize is used on center fire direct thread rifle suppressors.

The wrench trick while hot solves the problems on the rifle can coming loose, even with anti-seize.
 
My dead air nomad L never loosens from my bolt gun. But I have no experience with a gasser. I always use spark plug lube on mine and never have a problem either loosening or sticking. Even after a hundred rounds.
 
I would contact TSC for torque specs or other recommendations. Vibra-Tite makes a wide range of threadlocking products. Most are referring to VC-3 when they say Vibra-Tite, but that product only has a 165F temp rating and is not suitable for muzzle devices. The temp rating of what threadlocker you would need is mostly dependent on rate of fire. Semi/full autos typically need something like Rocksett, but most don't apply it properly.
 
I would contact TSC for torque specs or other recommendations. Vibra-Tite makes a wide range of threadlocking products. Most are referring to VC-3 when they say Vibra-Tite, but that product only has a 165F temp rating and is not suitable for muzzle devices. The temp rating of what threadlocker you would need is mostly dependent on rate of fire. Semi/full autos typically need something like Rocksett, but most don't apply it properly.
So you want OP to rocksett his suppressor?
 
My direct thread suppressor keeps coming loose every few shots. How do you guys avoid this? I tighten it, but I can tell by my groupings when it loosens.


If it’s got wrench cuts I use that for bolt guns.

On ARs I use a strap wrench to put a little extra torque on there.

Makes removing carbon locked ones a breeze too.
 

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Blue loctite, hand torque, works with reasonable rates of fire with gasser.
 
I use a quality, checked for flat crush washer on cans that won’t stay put. I bought a bunch and to see which ones were the most flat/true and they were all fine. Make sure it sits flat on the barrel shoulder and on the face of the can. Obviously don’t crush the crush washer with your can, just snug it hand tight and it grabs the can.
 
Would one of those star washers work like what’s on the grip screw of an AR?

My DT saker 556k was scary loose after running it hard the other day. Like at least a full turn loose.
 
Would one of those star washers work like what’s on the grip screw of an AR?

My DT saker 556k was scary loose after running it hard the other day. Like at least a full turn loose.
Swap to an ASR mount. My saker has that and has never come loose on my AR’s. I wouldn’t use anything your not sure is perfectly machined between the can and host.
 
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Don’t rocksett your can on. Muzzle device sure. But not a DT can
 
Swap to an ASR mount. My saker has that and has never come loose on my AR’s. I wouldn’t use anything your not sure is perfectly machined between the can and host.
No option to put an ASR mount. It’s DT only.
 
My thunderbeast has never come loose on my bolt guns, and I use that copper anti-seize stuff, and I’ve never used a strap wrench or anything to tighten it. I just grab the barrel and the can and put all my strength into tightening it.

Now that the can lives on my 300blackout AR, I did mill and tap a hole for a 10-32 set screw to touch down in the thread relief just in front of the shoulder. I even milled a little dimple in the thread relief for the set screw to go into and form a mechanical lock. So it can’t be unscrewed unless that set screw is backed out.

Just my opinion, but I’d never use red loctite anywhere on a rifle… learned that lesson the hard way 10 years ago. And blue loctite isn’t heat proof, so I can’t see using it on any muzzle device.
 
Loctite and rocksett don't work.
Think, girls.....they are both designed to release with heat.
Duh.
The thing that worked best for me is to take a chisel and hammer and lightly score 2 lines thru threads at 180* apart.
Go across the threads from muzzle tip to the base of the threaded portion.
It works just like an interference style lock nut.
 
You could always run a Dead Air XENO mount setup. I will probably end up running this on my bolt-action hunting rifles. They're super light (titanium) and it's LH threads, so it won't loosen up while shooting.
 
Thunderbeast threads are Class 3 and fit well with properly theeaded barrels

Not always so with other brands

Even blue Loctite when used with a can doesnt come loose with heat from shooting

I sent a can into Silencerco as the rear end cap was stuck; the body of the can that was factory glued loosened off

SiCo shipped the can back to me without addressing the rear end cap and glued the can body back on poorly without lining it up properly so it looks... wrong

I would think twice before using Loctite, even blue. At the very least use it sparingly

Check out Rearden Muzzle/can interface.

Running on my primary now and have had no issues so far. I'm using the Minimalist and like the low weight of this combo

Has not come loose at all

ASR works to keep the can on but is heavy clunky and ugly.
 
Loctite and rocksett don't work.
Think, girls.....they are both designed to release with heat.
Duh.
The thing that worked best for me is to take a chisel and hammer and lightly score 2 lines thru threads at 180* apart.
Go across the threads from muzzle tip to the base of the threaded portion.
It works just like an interference style lock nut.
You do you. But giving recommendations of ruining muzzle threads with a chisel is just insane.
 
If your going the chisel route may as well stake the can on as well

This WILL, without a doubt, fix your issue
 
Send it to Ecco , have it modified to use tbac brakes.

That was my solution on a few

This but have it converted to the Omega thread pattern because there’s way better attachment methods now than the TBAC CB brake. I wish I could have my Ultra 7 CB converted.
 
Went down a lock washer rabbit hole.
Anybody use Nord-Lock type washers in industry? these look like they would be the ticket for this application if someone were inclined to.

nl-large2_4.jpg

 
Look up omega pattern adaptors, there’s a ton. The Q plan B and Rearden stuff blow the CB out of the water. Never any shit in your threads to clean and less likely to get pieces of carbon on the shoulder too.
 
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Seems not one of you have ever heard of an interference lock nut.

How the hell do you think they are made anyway ?
 
Seems not one of you have ever heard of an interference lock nut.

How the hell do you think they are made anyway ?
After you do it to your rifle can you post pics? I’m curious as to what exactly the process/outcome looks like and if it works
 
Look up omega pattern adaptors, there’s a ton. The Q plan B and Rearden stuff blow the CB out of the water. Never any shit in your threads to clean and less likely to get pieces of carbon on the shoulder too.
Thank you, I will look them up.

I'm running Rearden minimalist paired with the part that screws into the rear of can now with great results.

I do need to learn the vernacular
 
Seems not one of you have ever heard of an interference lock nut.

How the hell do you think they are made anyway ?
You mean nuts and bolts designed for one time only use? I work with these a lot. Are you trashing your barrel and silencer adapter after every switch / change? Good for you, I can’t afford this.
 
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Loctite and rocksett don't work.
Think, girls.....they are both designed to release with heat.
Duh.
The thing that worked best for me is to take a chisel and hammer and lightly score 2 lines thru threads at 180* apart.
Go across the threads from muzzle tip to the base of the threaded portion.
It works just like an interference style lock nut.
This is probably the dumbest shit I’ve ever seen. I don’t give 3 fucks how much you have done, and seen. This is moronic. Yes I use interference locknuts all the time. They are one time use. What you are advocating for is wanton destruction of barrel and suppressor threads. Don’t try to tell us how smart you are, or any of your other bullshit you always try. This is the pinnacle of stupidity.