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Tikka T3x TAC A1 Barrel Replacement Question ...

rustyinbend

rustyinbend

GySgt USMC 1976-1992
Supporter
Full Member
Minuteman
    • Dec 9, 2018
    3,040
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    Bend, Oregon
    Disassembled down to the action, and preparing to remove the barrel ... but can't figure out how to get off this round housing gizmo (just down-barrel from the recoil lug) that holds the handguard screws. Anybody know how I remove this? Does it screw off? Come off some other way? Or do I barrel vise it and take it off when the action is removed? Anybody have experience with this?

    1672688142971.png
     
    It's been awhile since I changed the chassis out on mine, but is it held on with that screw that anchors into the scope base/top rail?

    Edit-a vice was not at all needed to remove any of the parts of the chassis when I did it.
     
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    Vivacious Stallion said:
    It's been awhile since I changed the chassis out on mine, but is it held on with that screw that anchors into the scope base/top rail?

    Edit-a vice was not at all needed to remove any of the parts of the chassis when I did it.
    Click to expand...
    That was the secret. Pulled that screw and the ring and recoil lug (connected) popped right off. THANKS!
     
    Hit one more snag I could use some help on. I'm using the Northland Shooters Supply external action wrench, and it's obvious this won't work without the scope rail removed. The scope rail screws are sufficiently recessed, and they're the "star" (torx) variety, so none of my screw heads are long enough and skinny enough to reach the screws. It looks like a Torx 8 or 9 ... but does someone out there know for sure what allen size I need to find to remove those scope rail screws?

    1672692317960.png
     
    UPDATE ...

    Well the last week wasn't much fun.
    • Soaked the action/barrel interface for days in Kroil penetrating oil.
    • Used a Bugholes internal Tikka action wrench ... no go.
    • Used a NSS external action wrench ... no go.
    • Torched the action to heat and expand it ... no go.
    • Froze the barrel to cool and shrink threads ... no go.
    • Torched and Froze ... rinse and repeat ... no go ... won't budge.
    I've got two great barrel vises (MechForce and Davidson) ... both hold the barrel super tight so that it doesn't rotate. I weigh a biscuit or two over 240, and with all my weight on the action wrench (either/both) and my feet basically off the ground, the action won't budge. Tried hitting the wrench(es) with a BFH and that didn't work either.

    I'm convinced the Tikka factory torques these on using a gallon of superglue, and a two-story lever being pulled tight by a team of a half dozen large elephants chasing a dump truck full of peanuts.

    The barreled action is now on it's way to LRI in Sturgis, SD ... where "money" will solve the problem I can't solve with "muscle". I officially give up.
     
    Tikka barrels I swear are JB welded and red loctited in so good luck! My Gunsmith had a hard time taking mine off.
    Was your scope rail pinned in? Mine was.
     
    AznTactical said:
    Tikka barrels I swear are JB welded and red loctited in so good luck! My Gunsmith had a hard time taking mine off.
    Was your scope rail pinned in? Mine was.
    Click to expand...
    There's a pin, but it popped out when I had all the screws removed after a few tap-tap-taps with a small hammer. The screws were loctited in and were VERY hard to remove, but I got them out. I just don't get why everything on this Tikka is constructed to never be able to take it apart.
     
    rustyinbend said:
    There's a pin, but it popped out when I had all the screws removed after a few tap-tap-taps with a small hammer. The screws were loctited in and were VERY hard to remove, but I got them out. I just don't get why everything on this Tikka is constructed to never be able to take it apart.
    Click to expand...
    Most TAC A1 guys that I've met never take off its specialized pic rail. I ended up just buying a 30 moa mount instead of dropping $90 on a rail for it.
     
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    AznTactical said:
    Most TAC A1 guys that I've met never take off its specialized pic rail. I ended up just buying a 30 moa mount instead of dropping $90 on a rail for it.
    Click to expand...
    Interesting ... it was a pain, but not all that hard. Getting enough leverage on the tiny torx allen wrench was the hardest part. After I got it off, I made sure I could get it back one ... no issues. Needed it off to use the NSS external action wrench ... which ultimately failed, but when I took off the pic-rail, I was so hopeful and optimistic. Then I failed miserably ...
     
    UPDATE ... got the action and barrel (now separated) back from LRI ... they did a beautiful job getting the barrel removed after my dismal failure. Did a hard soak in Carbon Remover and got rid of a nasty carbon ring. Bore-scoped the whole thing and decided (just for curiosity) to remount the old barrel (with reasonable torque and anti-seize) which doesn't look as bad as I had thought, and see how it groups. If tight and consistent, I'll shoot it some more. If not so good, I'll mount and tune my new McGowen pre-fit that's ready to go. Now that I can actually get the barrel off the action, I have "options". Shame on Tikka for factory-torqueing and thread-locking the holy crap out of their barrels and making it impossible to remove and self-service. I shouldn't need a gunsmith to remove a barrel, but LRI has my thanks for making it easy and quick to get that done.
     
    rustyinbend said:
    UPDATE ...

    Well the last week wasn't much fun.
    • Soaked the action/barrel interface for days in Kroil penetrating oil.
    • Used a Bugholes internal Tikka action wrench ... no go.
    • Used a NSS external action wrench ... no go.
    • Torched the action to heat and expand it ... no go.
    • Froze the barrel to cool and shrink threads ... no go.
    • Torched and Froze ... rinse and repeat ... no go ... won't budge.
    I've got two great barrel vises (MechForce and Davidson) ... both hold the barrel super tight so that it doesn't rotate. I weigh a biscuit or two over 240, and with all my weight on the action wrench (either/both) and my feet basically off the ground, the action won't budge. Tried hitting the wrench(es) with a BFH and that didn't work either.

    I'm convinced the Tikka factory torques these on using a gallon of superglue, and a two-story lever being pulled tight by a team of a half dozen large elephants chasing a dump truck full of peanuts.

    The barreled action is now on it's way to LRI in Sturgis, SD ... where "money" will solve the problem I can't solve with "muscle". I officially give up.
    Click to expand...
    Yeah, pretty sure my buddy @GBMaryland had to make a relief cut in the barrel to get one off. Used a dremel I think?

    But, I see you got it solved by LRI. Good deal, good luck.
     
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    Just curious, what did the barrel removal cost? Don't see that explicitly listed on their website.
     
    Last edited:
    rustyinbend said:
    UPDATE ... got the action and barrel (now separated) back from LRI ... they did a beautiful job getting the barrel removed after my dismal failure. Did a hard soak in Carbon Remover and got rid of a nasty carbon ring. Bore-scoped the whole thing and decided (just for curiosity) to remount the old barrel (with reasonable torque and anti-seize) which doesn't look as bad as I had thought, and see how it groups. If tight and consistent, I'll shoot it some more. If not so good, I'll mount and tune my new McGowen pre-fit that's ready to go. Now that I can actually get the barrel off the action, I have "options". Shame on Tikka for factory-torqueing and thread-locking the holy crap out of their barrels and making it impossible to remove and self-service. I shouldn't need a gunsmith to remove a barrel, but LRI has my thanks for making it easy and quick to get that done.
    Click to expand...

    I'm praying for you, Rusty.
     
    I've taken off a few tikka barrels, a buddy a couple more. It's never been that difficult. At least now you can just use an internal wrench.
     
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    Use a flat-top external action wrench is the way to go to get the original barrel off --> the Tikka action has that angular shape so it gets plenty of grip from that external wrench.

    Once you get it off, then you can use internal wrench for accurate torque wrenching --> all shouldered/prefit barrels would not require more torque than your internal action wrench could handle.
     
    tyl said:
    Use a flat-top external action wrench is the way to go to get the original barrel off --> the Tikka action has that angular shape so it gets plenty of grip from that external wrench.

    Once you get it off, then you can use internal wrench for accurate torque wrenching --> all shouldered/prefit barrels would not require more torque than your internal action wrench could handle.
    Click to expand...
    You make it sound so easy. I tried all that, and much more (flat wrench, internal wrench, heat, cold, etc.) ... and still couldn't make the damn thing budge. Ended up sending it to LRI and they got it off.
     
    I’ve done 5 with the wheeler #1 and a mechforce vise. None took more than one smack on the wheeler wrench with a dead blow hammer. Had a friend fighting one the same as you describe, and same process took it off with one hit from the dead blow. Every time I think I’m hoping not to get one of these horror story actions but I’ve still never seen it personally.
     
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    brazz04 said:
    I’ve done 5 with the wheeler #1 and a mechforce vise. None took more than one smack on the wheeler wrench with a dead blow hammer. Had a friend fighting one the same as you describe, and same process took it off with one hit from the dead blow. Every time I think I’m hoping not to get one of these horror story actions but I’ve still never seen it personally.
    Click to expand...

    Same here, I've pulled a few, a good whack and they have spun right off.
     
    The newer Tikkas have been easier to get off. The older ones?...ugh. Had to do like @Terry Lightle and make a relief cut, just ahead of the receiver on my first gen CTR (in .260, since they didn't offer 6.5CM back then). Barrel came off, no problem, after that. The older ones are torqued on to stupid levels. And typically the scope rail is also epoxied into place as well. I've heard they quit doing that as well.
     
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    MarinePMI said:
    (y)The newer Tikkas have been easier to get off. The older ones?...ugh. Had to do like @Terry Lightle and make a relief cut, just ahead of the receiver on my first gen CTR (in .260, since they didn't offer 6.5CM back then). Barrel came off, no problem, after that. The older ones are torqued on to stupid levels. And typically the scope rail is also epoxied into place as well. I've heard they quit doing that as well.
    Click to expand...
    I hope so, expect to need a replacement in the next 12/18 months, depending on my health
     
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