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Maggie’s The Welding and Metalworking Thread

LeftyJason said:
I want to keep it. Grandpa was domestic. Worked for Remington ammunition plant in Salt Lake. Made 30 cal and 50 cal ammo. He lived 1913-2008.
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Totally understandable (keeping it) and you should! Just write something up about it... have a 'package' of info that can go with it to a future generation or in case you get hit by a bus. That way the history does not die. There were tens of thousands of those toolboxes used in WW2 and beyond. I bet that fewer than a dozen of them have a documented history. Flight jackets? Dime a dozen. Cool pilot stuff? Everywhere. But there were far more mechanics and ground crew than there were aircrew. And because that was boring and they didn't make movies about the mechanics... noone saved anything or documented it. Even though those folks were the backbone of the AAC. Yours has a known history. That makes yours... important.

Keep it... for sure!!! But have a plan to make sure that a treasure stays that way. And some nephew or heir doesn't turn it in to recycling or get $2.00 at a yard sale. Because without its history, it's just junk.

Too much stuff ends up losing its significance... and that is a piece of history for sure!!!

Sirhr
 
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After a 6 month wait, my ShotMarker showed up (nice Christmas present to myself), so I rigged up this frame for it. All aluminum and a little 316 stainless, unfortunately didn't have to weld anything, just careful measuring, deburring and a little tapping. Oh, can't forget about the riv-nuts.

It"s not quite as easy to break-down and assemble as I'd like, but it'll work. Very sturdy and rigid. It can stand on its own or hang on 2x or from ropes/chains. Frame is 4'x4'. Total height is about 5'8".

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Wanted a cart for a recently acquired ESAB Renegade 300i. Unit only weighs 30lbs but wanted to have all my leads and rods close by whenever I use it. Ordered a cart from ZTFab and put it together this weekend. They make excellent cart kits and the fit up and quality is excellent. All joints were TIG welded using a Magic Wave 230i. Open corner joints on the frame were welded autogenous using the CycleTIG function which is basically pulse which you can set the number of cycles to control warping. Just need to put a coat of paint on it.

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Wow, spendy cart kits. Looks like a fun project.

My Aerowave is sitting crooked on a rusty trash can dolly....
 
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missed said:
I want to go to 33"' on my FJ and the long travel front end. It's the daily driver so I don't want to sacrifice too much from that. I need bumpers and better rock sliders to.
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I get it, go to far and they require constant maintenance. Plan on checking clearances with strut/spring removed and checking articulation at the extremes. Already have the pinch welds hammered and for front clearance running a C4 viper cut.
 
ZiaHunter said:
Wanted a cart for a recently acquired ESAB Renegade 300i. Unit only weighs 30lbs but wanted to have all my leads and rods close by whenever I use it. Ordered a cart from ZTFab and put it together this weekend. They make excellent cart kits and the fit up and quality is excellent. All joints were TIG welded using a Magic Wave 230i. Open corner joints on the frame were welded autogenous using the CycleTIG function which is basically pulse which you can set the number of cycles to control warping. Just need to put a coat of paint on it.

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I don't think I would paint it, that thing is art.
 
schroed62 said:
2021 going to try and fit some 34" tires on it and then regear later this year. It's been slow going but it is winter and this helps pass the time. Voiding the warranty priceless fun....
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Close friend of mine did the same thing to his 4Runner TRD Pro. Drove it from the dealer to his shop and totally redid the suspension to accept larger tires as well as changing the gearing and installed a supercharger. Drive a 2018 TRD Pro and pretty much have left it stock. Did consider installing a supercharger on it to improve performance when in the mountains.
 
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ZiaHunter said:
Close friend of mine did the same thing to his 4Runner TRD Pro. Drove it from the dealer to his shop and totally redid the suspension to accept larger tires as well as changing the gearing and installed a supercharger. Drive a 2018 TRD Pro and pretty much have left it stock. Did consider installing a supercharger on it to improve performance when in the mountains.
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This is almost what I did with my 2013 JK Unlimited Rubicon. While the Jeep was on order, I ordered in all sorts of stuff. Metalcloak lift, flat top fenders, Poison Spyder bumpers, dual battery kit, Gobi rack, a bunch of LED lights, smaller wheels to give me more sidewall, 37" tires, 5.13 gears, axle truss kits, some interior stuff, some exhaust upgrades and a Magnuson Supercharger. I drove it factory for about 1000 miles while waiting for all that crap to arrive and then started the transformation. The blower didn't arrive for about 6 months so that was the last item. What a difference the blower made!!! Before the blower install, I had pretty much lost the use of 6th gear. After blower install, I was able to break the gears during hard acceleration on pavement, so I don't do that anymore.
 
I ran a sheet metal press for a long time. We had 0.030 and 0.010 thousand tolerances.

The bend reduction formulas / book are crap and the catia junk engineering provides is worse.

Die changes constantly for complex parts requiring custom dies.

Get a scrap, measure it.
Bend it.
Measure it.

That is the way to make neer enough exact lenght bends.

Got to admit the tubing done with hand tools in the old days was more of an art.

And you guys would break a rib laughing at me trying to weld.

Silver solder on the tubing I was good at.
 
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I’m in need of some grinding services. A2 plane blades and chisels. Need the edges squared up and bevels re ground without being burnt. Need all bevels to be flat ground, not hollow. If anyone has some open time and wants to make a few bucks drop me a pm.
 
Bigfatcock said:
I’m in need of some grinding services. A2 plane blades and chisels. Need the edges squared up and bevels re ground without being burnt. Need all bevels to be flat ground, not hollow. If anyone has some open time and wants to make a few bucks drop me a pm.
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Personally I wouldn't grind them especially if you want a flat grind. Hand sharpening with water stones is the best option. All my plane blades are either Hock or Lie-Neilsen and sharpen chisels the same way. What is the quantity of blades you need sharpened. Send me a PM.
 
I've got some sheets of aluminum and have plastic layed-out in the livingroom. About to spray the layout fluid on them, then fire-up the nibbler to cut out what we need. Then give it a go to bend a few beads on the face edges. By hand, on the livingroom floor.

My Lady only said "maybe lay some vapour-barrier down on the floor, first. Don't scratch the hardwood floor."

Space,,,, the final frontier....
 
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ZiaHunter said:
Personally I wouldn't grind them especially if you want a flat grind. Hand sharpening with water stones is the best option. All my plane blades are either Hock or Lie-Neilsen and sharpen chisels the same way. What is the quantity of blades you need sharpened. Send me a PM.
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They can be ground on a surface grinder with the sine plate and ground flat within 0.0005" over 6" fairly easily. My schedule is so jacked right now I don't think I have any open machine time till late June.
 
ZiaHunter said:
Personally I wouldn't grind them especially if you want a flat grind. Hand sharpening with water stones is the best option. All my plane blades are either Hock or Lie-Neilsen and sharpen chisels the same way. What is the quantity of blades you need sharpened. Send me a PM.
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7 chisels and 2 plane blades. I have a honing guide, but only use it every now and then to reset my multi-beveled bevels, lol. Free hand sharpen mainly, and do a decent job of it, but over the year they get wonky.

So I send them out once a year to have the edges squared and bevels set at 30 degrees. The man I used to send them to has passed away.
 
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Sean the Nailer said:
I've got some sheets of aluminum and have plastic layed-out in the livingroom. About to spray the layout fluid on them, then fire-up the nibbler to cut out what we need. Then give it a go to bend a few beads on the face edges. By hand, on the livingroom floor.

My Lady only said "maybe lay some vapour-barrier down on the floor, first. Don't scratch the hardwood floor."

Space,,,, the final frontier....
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Man, I wouldnt use layout fluid in a living area. Especially if you have kids. It's got some bad stuff in it.
Cant you do that outside?
 
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gta_spec said:
Man, I wouldnt use layout fluid in a living area. Especially if you have kids. It's got some bad stuff in it.
Cant you do that outside?
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-16/-23 outside right now, and 'no kids'. Ain't it fun? In my next life, I'm going to have a wood shop, metal shop, welding shop, grinding shop, electrical shop, coffee shop, theater room, AND indoor plumbing!

As well as order-in each day. HA
 
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I took this picture for another forum, it's a picture of the welding table in my shop.

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Yes I have a blacktop floor and azalea bushes in my shop, don't you? That's the tail pipe off my Koenigsegg Jesko, they all have Walker tail pipes that color, of course you poors wouldn't know that. :D
 
cas6969 said:
I took this picture for another forum, it's a picture of the welding table in my shop.

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Yes I have a blacktop floor and azalea bushes in my shop, don't you? That's the tail pipe off my Koenigsegg Jesko, they all have Walker tail pipes that color, of course you poors wouldn't know that. :D
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One would think for that price there would be no assembly required.
PRICE$2,840,000
 
cas6969 said:
I took this picture for another forum, it's a picture of the welding table in my shop.

View attachment 8101111

Yes I have a blacktop floor and azalea bushes in my shop, don't you? That's the tail pipe off my Koenigsegg Jesko, they all have Walker tail pipes that color, of course you poors wouldn't know that. :D
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This Koenigsegg Jesko thingy,,, is that one of them newfangled fancy-schmancey coffee-maker thingy's, with interchangeable shotgun-shell flavour-shots?
 
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ZiaHunter said:
Very nice work. Did you roll the tubing yourself? Love the big Blue and run Millermatic 255 in my home shop
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yeah i rolled it myself, this was a contract job, i run Miller XMT's with a spool feeder normally they are worth the coin and give alot smoother ride on the weld than the millermatic's do. My dream list is a PipePro stainless package cat turbo, or kubota, nothing like 1800 r's and nice and quiet, i'm so tired of a screaming welder, but it's not my primary job anymore so although i miss it, i really don't. Maybe one day when i'm too old to use it I'll spend the 27k to pick one up..... it's on my bucket list.
didn't build this, but wanted too duplicate it,,, technically hard to do though...
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Built this though,,
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Needed a better way to mount my phone in my Tacoma. Found these.
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https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2nd-gen-dash-mount-for-ram-style-mounts-gb-ongoing.765430/

Decided I didn't want aluminum. So I decided to make my own out of stainless. I put 2 ball mounting holes vs their 3. Got the stainless at a place in Texas at Christmas time helping my dad on a project. Finally finished it today.

3/8 stainless. Cut with angle grinder cut off wheel.
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Shapes done with angle grinder, bench grinder, and finished with files.
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Holes drilled with drill press and ball mounting holes tapped 1/4-20.
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This is the backer. Had to chop the corners.

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To mount the radio needs removed. Not hard.
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Just barely installed it. Phone placement likely to move.
 
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The project I helped my dad with. Making 2 stainless plates to fix my parents upstairs futon. Bolted in better than it was designed in the first place. Cut using angle grinder and dremel cut off wheels. Finished with files. My dad says I make working with stainless look like wood.

It is bolted to the side rail. The previous stops were plastic and broke.
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Newest addition to the shop SBL Heavy 10. Still in good working order but going to do a complete disassembly and rebuild since all the felts need to be replaces and given a good cleaning. Dorian tool post planned and still undecided on a chuck. Possibly a DRO and coolant system but will decide once the rebuild is finished.
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ZiaHunter said:
Newest addition to the shop SBL Heavy 10. Still in good working order but going to do a complete disassembly and rebuild since all the felts need to be replaces and given a good cleaning. Dorian tool post planned and still undecided on a chuck. Possibly a DRO and coolant system but will decide once the rebuild is finished.
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This pic smells like coolant and oil. I think I caught a whiff of Kroil too.
 
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hukset402 said:
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Decided to run a 1" 3g stick plate the other day. Couple small spots of undercut but went decent for a spur of the moment decision. Going to cut and bend test it one of these days.
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Good practice. Do padding drills when I don't have a specific project to work on in my shop. Mostly TIG and the drills keep me in practice with stick and mig. Keep a 3/8" coupons on hand for that purpose.
 
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Not entirely metalworking… but trying to make a few of these lapel pins as gifts and refining my technique for turning glass and gemstones in a lathe.

So far, it’s sort of working! This one is glass, brass and ivory…

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Plan is to insert a Diamond chip primer.

Next one will be ruby or spinel.

‘They’ told me I couldn’t turn glass in a lathe.

But ‘they’ can kiss my ass! Carbide tools, a collett and water coolant applied with a q-tip… and glass machines just fine. Even drills ok!

Sirhr
 
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Ever need to get a press fit bearing race out of a blind hole? On this NV4500 input bearing race, I fired up the TIG machine at 140 amps and just arced a 360 degree line around the inside of the race. After it cooled and shrank, it practically fell out. I probably could have gotten more shrinkage if I ran filler metal. It measured .002-.003" smaller than the new race I was putting in.

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gigamortis said:
Ever need to get a press fit bearing race out of a blind hole? On this NV4500 input bearing race, I fired up the TIG machine at 140 amps and just arced a 360 degree line around the inside of the race. After it cooled and shrank, it practically fell out. I probably could have gotten more shrinkage if I ran filler metal. It measured .002-.003" smaller than the new race I was putting in.

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On some similar situations it's been heat / cool / heat / cool, etc until the fit loosens up. Just moving metal to fit the situation.
You going to "dry ice" the race to install it?
 
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