Rustoleum Spray Paint Forest Green with the Rustoleum Matte Clear Coat... Clear coat is a must
Tikka T3x Super Varmint roughtech
6,5x55
Atzl trigger
Atlasworx bottom metal
Aics mags 3006 adaped to 6,5x55
PSE Etac
Spuhr mount
S&B PMII 10x42
Ckye pod
Still waiting for the sterk bolt handle.
First shot low after cleaning. Rest is 10 shots/100m Sako Racehead 140gr factory ammo i used to break in the barrell and still had some left.
Cheers from Germany
Daniel
Twist to tighten and give it a whack with the hammer (on the breaker bar) in the tighten direction. Then twist to remove.
Works 10 for 10 so far.
Internal wrench is the way to go. Broke an action like you did before I went internal.
Works 10 for 10 so far.
Internal wrench is the way to go. Broke an action like you did before I went internal.
Put my UPR 308 in the factory UPR stock. The Bravo is a nice stock and I will keep my 6.5 CM in one, but I give a slight edge to the UPR for a hunting rifle. It’s much lighter but has plenty of barrel free float, stiffness and palm swell.
I have a Tikka Tx3 varmint that we took it to a mile with 88 grain ELD's. These guns are amazing. I was worried that my Tikka wouldn't do anything that my new Rem700 5R would do, I was wrong. These Tikka guns are amazing YMMV.
PB
PB
I got the stencil from Amazon. I started off with a desert color base, but I think the dark brown would have been a better base with green and dessert digital pattern over the brown.
Right so here she is all put together. This is my first jump into the long range world, keen to get learning and the T3 seemed to be the perfect platform 
T3X CTR in 6.5CM 20” barrel
XRay
Harris Bipod
Tier One spitfire brake
Strike eagle in Audere rings with Shield SMS sat on top.
Love the way it looks ( other than I’m not entirely sold on the sako green and may have to get it cerakoted ) now to see how it shoots!
T3X CTR in 6.5CM 20” barrel
XRay
Harris Bipod
Tier One spitfire brake
Strike eagle in Audere rings with Shield SMS sat on top.
Love the way it looks ( other than I’m not entirely sold on the sako green and may have to get it cerakoted ) now to see how it shoots!
Attachments
Very nice, I like the green, just paint the mag, it will look better 
I ordered a CTR from my LGS and I told them to order an extra magazine with it. This is what came in. A plastic single stack that doesn't fit. My fault. I should've known when he said it was $40
Right so here she is all put together. This is my first jump into the long range world, keen to get learning and the T3 seemed to be the perfect platform
T3X CTR in 6.5CM 20” barrel
XRay
Harris Bipod
Tier One spitfire brake
Strike eagle in Audere rings with Shield SMS sat on top.
Love the way it looks ( other than I’m not entirely sold on the sako green and may have to get it cerakoted ) now to see how it shoots!
I love Sako Green. Check out Sako TRGs. That color is iconic in the long range world.
After all, what’s the argument against shooting the 338 Ultra on the 223? I sure can’t think of any 
Help me reinforce my decision to buy a 308 bolt face t3x lite and rebarrel it with a Bartlien vs. buy an Origin.
I have one Tikka with a Bartlien already, so it would be nice to only have to worry about parts for one brand of action.
I have one Tikka with a Bartlien already, so it would be nice to only have to worry about parts for one brand of action.
Thinking I want to build a 223 AI,wondering if anybody has had any feeding problems when they did this.Have 2 Tikka rifles so already have a start to do it
My tikka 223ai has fed perfect. No issues.
And as far as the tikka/origin. I like the tikka better but both are good. I would say deciding factor is stock/chassis availability and proof prefits if they offer what you’re wanting. I believe proof only offers carbon for the tikka. And also triggers, if you like what’s available for the tikka if not go origin.
Both will shoot equally well
And as far as the tikka/origin. I like the tikka better but both are good. I would say deciding factor is stock/chassis availability and proof prefits if they offer what you’re wanting. I believe proof only offers carbon for the tikka. And also triggers, if you like what’s available for the tikka if not go origin.
Both will shoot equally well
I’ve noticed lots of references on here about shooting 88eld-m’s out of Tikka .223’s.
I’ve found they’re 1:8” twist. I’ve been contemplating a .223 (or .223ai) bolt gun and was wondering how well they do with that bullet and the 8” rifling vs. a 1:7”? My altitude is only 1,100-1,300’ASL, so you boys out west may have an advantage.
I’ve found they’re 1:8” twist. I’ve been contemplating a .223 (or .223ai) bolt gun and was wondering how well they do with that bullet and the 8” rifling vs. a 1:7”? My altitude is only 1,100-1,300’ASL, so you boys out west may have an advantage.
8 twist won't reliably shoot the 75 eldm, not to mention the 80 or 88.
A quick search shows many shooting the 75 ELDM in an 8 twist, so those should be fine.
The box for 75s says 7 twist, and I have an 8 Twist Tikka that agrees with the Box.
If you want to shoot bullet x, just buy a barrel designed to shoot it.
Its not 'weird' 1:7 is stated on the manufacturers BOX.
What is weird is not reading the box.
Be even fuckin’ weirder if Hornady’s website didn’t match the box.
Just sayin’……
Yeah. That's the big one really. That gets me the barrel.
Unless you have a 26"+ barrel and get them going faster than say 2850-2900 They don't do any better than the 75 eld. More drop, same or more wind. A 75 eld doing 3,000 is a sight to behold and very nice to shoot. Only problem is impact energy out past 700. Factory barrel, stick with the 75 or 80. It's a wash between those two so might as well just shoot the 75. Unless for some reason your gun shoots the 80s tighter.
*I have a 7.5 twist 26" Bartlien and it does stabilize them just fine but getting them to 2875-2900 isn't easy. You'll need leverevolution, cfe 223 or something like that. The 88s are crazy long and not meant for a regular 223 chamber. I'd go to the 85.5s or 80.5 Bergers before 88s.
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Honestly the 75, 80 and 88 grain eld came out for use in the .224 valkyrie. The 88 is just virtually impossibly long for anything .223 that is not a bolt gun and quite possibly even then.
The Valk was designed to shoot heavier bullets the 223 could not. Typical twist for the Valk is 1:7 or less.
The 75 and 80 were out way before the Valk but your right on the 88.
Krg midas
Bit too pricey for me. I may have to bend eventually though.
I prefer my krg Midas over my trigger tech diamond personally once I removed one of the springs in the Midas to get the weight down around 1#.
Timney also makes a 2 stage.
As far as the 88 in a 223, I’m very impressed with them. I’m running them at 2820 and it keeps up nicely with my 6 BR running 108 ELDM at 1000
Timney also makes a 2 stage.
As far as the 88 in a 223, I’m very impressed with them. I’m running them at 2820 and it keeps up nicely with my 6 BR running 108 ELDM at 1000
And I agree on the ballistics of the 75’s being better in drop and equal in wind at 1000. My old 75 eld load was 3011. The 88 shoot better in my rifle and it seems that the slower moving 88’s are easier to spot closer up, say inside 400. The 75’s just get there too fast.
There is also a Timney for the T3
Got the new CTR sighted in today.
I plan on upgrading the chassis someday but right now I'm looking at a new scope/mount. Leaning towards a Burris XTR Pro
I plan on upgrading the chassis someday but right now I'm looking at a new scope/mount. Leaning towards a Burris XTR Pro
The Burris XTR pro is an awesome scope. I have sold other scopes to be able to get 3 of them.
If you don’t know, do your self a favor and add the pro to your cart at Liberty Optics best price you will find.
If you don’t know, do your self a favor and add the pro to your cart at Liberty Optics best price you will find.
Hmm. I never remember seeing the 80 before the 224 came out. Like, at all. It’s designed for 1:7 or faster. I can’t picture it doing well in a 223 except in a bolt gun and there were not many of those around at the time, also that I remember. The 80 eld is not impossible for a ar style rifle but it is problematic.
Yes I've checked them out. Great prices. Which reticle(s) do you have? I'm thinking keeping it simple with the SCR-2
Changed the handguard on my CTR in KRG Bravo to a Vision one. Having an integrated one is much more comfortable than the KRG Arca rail.
I initially had the SCR2 since I had a few of the XTR3’s with the SCR2 and wanted them to match.
I was able to check out the 2 1/4 at a match and much prefer the simpler 1/4 mil spacing since It provided less clutter and faster to understand for me.
I sold my original pro and my xtr3’s and replaced them with the 2 1/4 pro’s. I still have 1 xtr3 in 3-18 simply because I like the zoom range. If they release the 2 1/4 reticle in a 3-18 I will sell and buy one.
Ok. Here we go. Another Tact A1 praise-a-thon.
The first group is of shots 47-49. Second group is of shots 61-63.
All shot with 6.5 CM 140gr. FGMM @ 100y.
Speeds have been pretty consistent and SDs are typical for FGMM.
Once load development gets started, I’d be shocked if my groups can get any smaller.
I have done nothing to this rifle but lighten the trigger. Bone stock.
I may replace the barrel at some point, but for right now I’m very pleased with the platform.
Not my first Tikka, nor my last.
The first group is of shots 47-49. Second group is of shots 61-63.
All shot with 6.5 CM 140gr. FGMM @ 100y.
Speeds have been pretty consistent and SDs are typical for FGMM.
Once load development gets started, I’d be shocked if my groups can get any smaller.
I have done nothing to this rifle but lighten the trigger. Bone stock.
I may replace the barrel at some point, but for right now I’m very pleased with the platform.
Not my first Tikka, nor my last.
Dude you’ve been out in the sun too long. Skin cancer is a killa broseph
The MKM chassis is the only one that I'm aware of, as a "factory" solution. Looks great and, apparently, the trigger really works well.
No idea of real world availability of the MKM. Better ask them.
I'm sure a gunsmith would build you a chassis for $$$$$.
