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Gunsmithing Lathe selection

That's the lowest the VFD runs it, 34 rpms. Finish is real nice with carbide for aluminum laydown inserts.

I could run faster, there is really no need with the made for aluminum inserts.

Have VFD on all 3 lathes I use for barrel works. The 1440ev came with a factory installed 7HP VFD feeding the 5HP motor. The 1236 and 1024 VFDs run 2HP motors. All lathes are Taiwanese made.

The DRO on the 1236 died after a year, re-installed the TravADial

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Nice setups. My Jet 1236 is of the same type as your green 1024, just a slightly bigger drive box around the spindle, and it's gray. (Taiwan made, 1991). It's the belt drive version of course; the gear head version like your 1236 is what a good friend of mine has and its a lot more convenient for speed changes, not having a VFD of course.

Tell me about the micrometer stop piece at the bottom of the apron on that green 1024 - what does it do and what do you use it for? I haven't seen a stop mounted down low like that before.

That 1440 with the VFD is a sweet setup. I'd love to upgrade my 1236 to one like that.

BTW I went back and checked, that 16ER AG60 insert is the same one I'm using, pictured in one of my earlier posts in this thread. I bought 3 Carmex inserts way back when I first started threading with carbide, looks like I'm on the second one now and still have one left. That's a lot of miles on a couple of inserts and a LOT of threading; so much for them being "frustrating and expensive", lol. You're right about them being sharp enough to leave good finishes in most materials; they're also tough enough to withstand some common screwups without incident. I've certainly crashed mine into a shoulder a few times as I learned; most of the time it just screwed up the part without hurting the insert.

I also use the smaller size (whatever number that is - I forget) on a threading bar for internal threads. A tip I learned that's helped me a lot - flip the threading bar upside down, and thread on the side away from you, so you can see it better compared to craning your neck to see into the closer side of a tube.

Internal threading is an important skill for anyone doing F1 suppressor work of course; it's not really harder except that sometimes you can't really see what's happening very well and have to go by the numbers or more basic methods like sharpie marks on the threading bar.
 
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WOW, nice lathe^^^.
Now at the completely opposite end of the "quality machinery" spectrum:
My 1946 Logan 850, threading 6AL4V Titanium, using the AR Warner HSS.

This logan is about as rigid as a wet noodle, so I have not tried carbide.
No gearbox, I have to use the gear chart and manually install/remove/shift gears around.
With patience, it works!!!!!
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@Yondering the proximity sensor is attached to the micrometer. I slide the set up on the flat rail, lock it down, then use the micrometer for the final adjustment where I want the carriage to stop at speed. Once the proximity is set, don't want to change the spindle, as stopping point may vary.
 
WOW, nice lathe^^^.
Now at the completely opposite end of the "quality machinery" spectrum:
My 1946 Logan 850, threading 6AL4V Titanium, using the AR Warner HSS.

This logan is about as rigid as a wet noodle, so I have not tried carbide.
No gearbox, I have to use the gear chart and manually install/remove/shift gears around.
With patience, it works!!!!!
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View attachment 8087256

I still have Warner bits, but do not use them. I still use the holders, though I have other brands. The Warner bits are not as sharp as the polished uncoated carbide designed for aluminum.
 
@Yondering you asked about the 34 RPM, reminded me of the plandemic project I did threading at 34 with laydown carbide. 5/8x24.

Jig was chambered like a barrel, the case shoulder bottoms out on the chamber shoulder. The round is held in place by a threaded cap. Sample round is a M118 LR

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lol.. about the annular cut? I used the same jig to trim meplat on M118 LR ammo for my hog hunting rifle. Then run #1 center drill to chamfer.

Boiler room behind the shoulder shot never had an exit hole.

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What are you doing with the cut in the previous post, so far back from the tip? Is that to make the tip break off in meat, or something else?

Those aluminum cutting inserts certainly are amazing; not your granddaddy's carbide.
 
WOW, nice lathe^^^.
Now at the completely opposite end of the "quality machinery" spectrum:
My 1946 Logan 850, threading 6AL4V Titanium, using the AR Warner HSS.

This logan is about as rigid as a wet noodle, so I have not tried carbide.
No gearbox, I have to use the gear chart and manually install/remove/shift gears around.
With patience, it works!!!!!
View attachment 8087254
View attachment 8087255
View attachment 8087256

Looks like somebody's making a can. (y)

Heads up though, even on a relatively flexible lathe you can still make good use of modern carbide, if you want to. That little laydown threading insert I'm using for very similar jobs will cut about the same in that Ti, but without the tendency to wear the edges of your HSS tooling dull. I first started using that stuff with a little South Bend 9, so I know what you mean.
 
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What are you doing with the cut in the previous post, so far back from the tip? Is that to make the tip break off in meat, or something else?

Those aluminum cutting inserts certainly are amazing; not your granddaddy's carbide.

To break off.
 
I picked this one up used . Had to make a 2 hour trip from FW into Ok but worth it . I got taper tool 3 heads . ( 3, 4 &6 jaw ) . bunch of extra stuff. I gave $6500 for it it in almost new shape. ( used for 2 months ) I build engines so my use is not working on guns. I am learning to thread ha ha its not very easy that is for sure . For a solid unit that you do not have to take apart for gear ratio changes. Heavy so it does not move around on items that are not balanced. I feel it checks the boxes . My buddy has this version in a Jet . I have used his and vice versa . I would take this over the JET any day of the week .

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I picked this one up used . Had to make a 2 hour trip from FW into Ok but worth it . I got taper tool 3 heads . ( 3, 4 &6 jaw ) . bunch of extra stuff. I gave $6500 for it it in almost new shape. ( used for 2 months ) I build engines so my use is not working on guns. I am learning to thread ha ha its not very easy that is for sure . For a solid unit that you do not have to take about for gear ratio changes. Heavy so it does not move around on items that are not balanced. I feel it checks the boxes . My buddy has this version in a Jet . I have used his and vice versa . I would take this over the JET any day of the week .

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That is a killer price. Those newer grizzly SB are super nice lathes...we had one in machine class. That's probally a 15-20k lathe new. Good find.
 
I picked this one up used . Had to make a 2 hour trip from FW into Ok but worth it . I got taper tool 3 heads . ( 3, 4 &6 jaw ) . bunch of extra stuff. I gave $6500 for it it in almost new shape. ( used for 2 months ) I build engines so my use is not working on guns. I am learning to thread ha ha its not very easy that is for sure . For a solid unit that you do not have to take apart for gear ratio changes. Heavy so it does not move around on items that are not balanced. I feel it checks the boxes . My buddy has this version in a Jet . I have used his and vice versa . I would take this over the JET any day of the week .

View attachment 8087949

That is a great snag. Made in Taiwan, robust lathe that will serve you for a long time.

I see that you have a Bridgeport I know the guy who owns this company. Besides this business he is an accomplished tool and die maker. He built his own benchrest rifle and dominated the TX benchrest with a 30-30 sometime back. When I said, built, he machined the complete action and one piece bolt. He also built my 30-30 bolt gun.

You might heard of it or may even own one. The last time he came over, he said he has over 600 of these in circulation worldwide, including some in highly specialized shops catering to racing operations.

 
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Run 'er slow, clear the chips frequently, and don't back off the reamer before stopping the lathe. (Backing off can allow a chip to roll over a cutting flute and gall against the freshly cut chamber.)
I got it cut it’s very very tight I can feel it close on new lapua brass idk if I went too tight or not , it’s definitely not loose I’ve got it on the action now
 
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I got it cut it’s very very tight I can feel it close on new lapua brass idk if I went too tight or not , it’s definitely not loose I’ve got it on the action now

Hopefully you're checking it with a headspace go gauge at least though, not just new Lapua brass? New brass is often .010" or more shorter from base to shoulder datum than a minimum spec chamber, and Lapua is no exception. I've got a batch of brand new Lapua 6.5 Grendel sitting here for example that's uniformly .012" shorter at the shoulder than a go gauge. If I were to cut a chamber to fit that brass, most factory ammo wouldn't chamber, and most resizing dies wouldn't bump the shoulder back enough to size it properly.

Maybe you know all that, wasn't sure based on your comment above. Some people don't.

Also, just a tip - after you've reamed the chamber, burnish it with a bob made of steel wool wrapped around a bronze brush, spun in a cordless drill. The bob should be a tight fit in the fresh chamber. Use a little oil (WD40, gun oil, even cutting oil, doesn't matter) and spin it while moving in and out of the chamber, like honing a cylinder in an engine, until the barrel feels a bit warm. You can still do this in the action, no problem.
That won't remove any steel per se, but it'll blend in the high spots with the low spots and leave a smoother finish. I've had fired cases stick a little in a fresh chamber if that hasn't been done, but burnishing takes care of it.