Stuck suppressor help

Man, when the army fist gave us the m110's, we carbon welded a few surefire suppressors on. We tried solvent tanks, carbon killer, etc, and ended up beating them off with dead blow hammers.

I now know that CLR will actually dissolve carbon when left to soak. Get a bucket of CLR and give it 12 hours. It will slide right off.

We use ultrasonic bins and simple green and heated water for a couple of hours, and then whisper a secret code.

this may help

Try Soaking it in cider - deep deep in cider

bbhank said:

Try Soaking it in cider - deep deep in cider

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Don't soak in cider or use anything acidic. Best bet is to call Silencerco and worst case is to send it to them to prevent you from causing more damage to both the suppressor and the firearm.

I had some threads that were incorrectly cut on a rifle which caused the suppresser to stick on the barrel. I had to send the rifle and suppresser to the manufacturer for repair and they had to cut the barrel and machine it out of the suppresser.

hafejd30 said:

View attachment 8097846

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Obviuosly Stefan has never soaked anything in cider. Maybe one day bud! hahahahaha

bbhank said:

Obviuosly Stefan has never soaked anything in cider. Maybe one day bud! hahahahaha

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My bad I was thinking of vinegar (acidic), I use it as a etchant for metal when making my cable damascus knives.

How many rounds since it was last removed? How many rounds since it was last cleaned?

If soaking deep, deep in cider doesn't work, cold water seems to work on stuck dogs.

Did you try removing it while hot?

soak in your favorite penetrant, Kroil, WD, 1/2 mineral spirits and 1/2 ATF (the other atf, automatic transmission fluid)
Find some bare speakers with exposed magnets and stick them on the barrel and suppressor if magnetic.
Plug in some rock and roll or death metal and walk away.
If that doesn't work you're screwed. Or have to move to the hot wrench.

A little heat from a propane torch goes a long way. Dont get it hot enough to melt the coating. Then grab it with some welding gloves or strap wrench

CLR, that's phosphoric acid. Not good. Likely destroyed....

Go to the store to get a strap wrench and some liquid wrench.

With your rifle pointed muzzle down spray the liquid wrench on the back of the can/muzzle device. Then tap the can with a rubber mallet to help the oil penetrate. Wait an hour, apply again, wait another hour. If you still can't get it unstuck by hand try the strap wrench.

Secure the barrel in a vice (wrapped up in tape to prevent damage). Ensure MB/FH is as close to the vise jaws as possible to prevent damage (barrel flex) and maximize mechanical advantage. Apply the strap wrench and turn the can off.

Once it’s off clean the mounting surfaces and MB/FH and apply some antiseize to prevent future issues.

I use CLR in my barrel for carbon and in my titanium cans. One of the best selling points for titanium cans is that you can safely soak long term with CLR .

I soak my stainless chamber/bore 15-20 mims which is plenty. Watching how aggressive CLR is on carbon is really amazing. Carbon can be some hard nasty stuff.

I have been warned by a Hide suppressor manufacturer and a barrel maker, against soaking CLR in stainless for extended periods of time. So I don’t. I also make sure to contain it and clean it out of the barrel thoroughly immediately afterwards.

This is one of the several reasons I remove my cans after firing. To avoid carbon-lock. There are a couple other good reasons too. For a setup I want to leave ready to go, it’s cheap insurance to spin the can off and back on.

Agreed, CLR used right will not hurt, I always clean my suppressors and bore with CLR, nothing is ever damaged.

Lots of CLR.

Then try sticking everything in a freezer and using a torch on just the suppressor. The difference in temp should help the heated suppressor to expand while the frozen barrel/threads stay contracted. Use a dead blow hammer on a wrench to get it to loosen.

Shoot 40 rounds as fast you can then take apart. Ive had to do this several times when would swap from rifle to rifle. Hot can on cold comp.

reubenski said:

I challenge everyone in this thread that is referring to CLR by what they heard someone's buddy's sister

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Zak Smith, is hardly “someone’s buddy's sister” chuckles.…

40,000 ft /lb output….it will bring that bitch off or twist the barrel in half! If you love the rifle the 33K is a small price to pay!

I know a hammer has been mentioned already but I would like to add this:
as opposed to striking the wrench with a hammer (which definitely can work), try lightly tapping the suppressor with a hammer right around the threads while you have high steady torque on the suppressor / or the same process but tap the muzzle of the suppressor (so you hit the face) I recommend a brass hammer. It’s pretty cool what vibrations can do.

kopcicle said:

soak in your favorite penetrant, Kroil, WD, 1/2 mineral spirits and 1/2 ATF (the other atf, automatic transmission fluid)
Find some bare speakers with exposed magnets and stick them on the barrel and suppressor if magnetic.
Plug in some rock and roll or death metal and walk away.
If that doesn't work you're screwed. Or have to move to the hot wrench.

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Kroil gets my recommendation. I've been using it for 20 years on offroad trucks and vehicles.

Hell, 15 years ago, a buddy of mine wanted me to help him drag an old outboard motor through the woods, load it up, and take it back to his house. That motor was frozen solid. Been there outside on that boat that was sitting on the ground for like 30 years untouched. We got it mounted on a make-shift 2x4 motor stand, and we pulled the cowl off the top, pulled the plugs, and I sprayed Kroil in each cylinder all the way to the top, then put the plugs back in to keep debris out. Let it sit for 24 hours, Kroil had drained down into the crankcase. Filled them up again, and repeated this for 3 days. Then went back over there with a big ass breaker-bar and an impact socket and 1 good pull with some serious effort broke everything loose. Not only did the Kroil dissolve most of the rust, but it also unlocked all the rings, saved the crosshatching in the cylinder walls, and tested with proper compression. We rebuilt the carbs and put fresh oil and gas in it, and it ran perfect! That made me a believer in the power of Kroil, and I've believed in it every since.

I still clean my rifles with Kroil/Shooter's Choice mix. I've never found a reason to change

If you need assistance I'm happy to remove it respectfully I have a few skills left in my Black Bag...

Mike R.

reubenski said:

What would you expect a manufacturer to say? Try it. Drop something steel in CLR and see what it does over a week or two.

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Then repeat with something Ti. please record and report back.

To an earlier question, I have used phosphoric acid, not CLR, to clean iron parts. It does cut into the metal but not at the rate stronger acids will. I just couldn't do it in particular in the barrel crown area.

I have heard a cleaner called "Carbon Off" works well on carbon. I have not used it but was told by a restaurant supply outfit that it works well. It does have a few pretty strong chemicals in it however but safe on metal is my understanding.

YMMV.....