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Accuracy International AT-X

If you want a full proof solution to your AT-X if it’s not feeding properly then go with a shim. Since it has been installed, I’ve not had a single failure and that includes 6BR with the HRD kit in a standard AW mag (also works flawlessly with the AT-X mag). 6.5CM, 260 Rem, .308 Win all work perfectly too and I’ve not had to touch a feed lip.
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Man, I’ve now officially seen this thread go full circle. It’s been quite the ride. 🤦‍♂️😂
 
If you want a full proof solution to your AT-X if it’s not feeding properly then go with a shim. Since it has been installed, I’ve not had a single failure and that includes 6BR with the HRD kit in a standard AW mag (also works flawlessly with the AT-X mag). 6.5CM, 260 Rem, .308 Win all work perfectly too and I’ve not had to touch a feed lip.
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What thickness is the shim you used? I haven’t had any issues since getting my mags back from AINA except a little hitch during chambering. No “failures” but it’s not as smooth as it could be on every round.

Might try a shim just for science sake.
 
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Keep in mind, according to AI.....the rifles shims were used in/needed were UK rifles and not AINA. According to them, there was something dimensionally wrong/different in the UK rifles that wasn't in the AINA rifles.
 
Was on Mile high the other day and saw they had a ATX butt stock with quick adjustment knobs, are these up grades included in the latest version of the rifle or are exclusively an upgrade?
 
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Was on Mile high the other day and saw they had a ATX butt stock with quick adjustment knobs, are these up grades included in the latest version of the rifle or are exclusively an upgrade?

Should be the same butt that ships with current "gen 3" rifles.

Gen 1: original screw pattern and tool needed butt

Gen 2: updated screw pattern and tool needed butt

Gen 3: same updated screw pattern and tool less butt


The butt they are selling should be targeted for gen 1 and 2 owners.
 
Planning on ordering a prefit from Bugholes. Can anyone confirm a 26” M24 contour barrel will fit under the long forearm cover ?
 
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Planning on ordering a prefit from Bugholes. Can anyone confirm a 26” M24 contour barrel will fit under the long forearm cover ?
It will fit. Anything with a taper will fit. 1.25" straight contor will not fit.
 
Elite Moss ATX

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Planning on ordering a prefit from Bugholes. Can anyone confirm a 26” M24 contour barrel will fit under the long forearm cover ?
Here’s a 26” MTU Hawkhill Custom barrel finished by Manzella Precision. Plenty of clearance under the bridge.
 

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Manzella sends me videos every time he dial in one my barrels, showing zero, I mean zero runout at the throat point of the chamber prior to cutting. The man's a great machinist. Probably why I have 6 barrels at his shop right now.
 
I just had Manzella Precision chamber a barrel for my AT-X. Not only was his turn-around extremely quick, but Mike was always available and helpful with every question I had. I'm extremely impressed with his work and customer service.
 
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does anyone have a PDF copy of the AT-X user manual that comes on the thumb drive?

ETA: also, what is the part number for a dark earth full length top rail for the long foreend bridge?
 
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22GT hammered this weekend. Fed and performed flawlessly, any misses were solely on me. Love this thing more and more every time I shoot it.

28” Brux, 6.5” twist, running Berger 85.5s right at 3100.

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What weights do you have in that (other than the obviously visible forend ones?

Im guessing you have one of the steel but spacers to balance it out.
Do you have any barrel channel weights?
 
What weights do you have in that (other than the obviously visible forend ones?

Im guessing you have one of the steel but spacers to balance it out.
Do you have any barrel channel weights?
Talk to me about these steel butt spacers. Got a part number?
 
What weights do you have in that (other than the obviously visible forend ones?

Im guessing you have one of the steel but spacers to balance it out.
Do you have any barrel channel weights?

Yes, 4 sawtooth weights per side and all 3 internal AI weights. No weight in the rear except a more recently added sawtooth bagrider.

It’s a tad front heavy at 28” + suppressor but that’s my preference. Total weight configured like that is like 28.5-29lbs.

A little overkill for most and realistically could probably get away with 4 external weights total without much difference in feel or recoil.
 
Yes, 4 sawtooth weights per side and all 3 internal AI weights. No weight in the rear except a more recently added sawtooth bagrider.

It’s a tad front heavy at 28” + suppressor but that’s my preference. Total weight configured like that is like 28.5-29lbs.

A little overkill for most and realistically could probably get away with 4 external weights total without much difference in feel or recoil.
It looks like it'd be very front heavy, I guess it still balance under the row of weights so not too bad.
 
I had it re-cerakoted in Elite Moss. The Brownells Alumahyde was starting to come off and the blue show through.
The elite moss looks a little darker than the OD Green from that picture. A little closer to AW Green whereas the OD Green looks like a good match for Sage Green.
 
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Ai is more like hk and bae oasys every day

Assholes

I doubt they're not selling them as parts to be assholes. AI already has a hard enough time keeping up with supply of complete mags, why would they sell the parts they need to make whole mags if they have supply issues and then not be able to supply as many mags?

You cut off the part of his post where it says to call AINA for service if you're having feed issues. I'd be willing to bet they'd just swap the mag with the AT-X mag or the guts and then you wouldn't even have to buy the parts.
 
I doubt they're not selling them as parts to be assholes. AI already has a hard enough time keeping up with supply of complete mags, why would they sell the parts they need to make whole mags if they have supply issues and then not be able to supply as many mags?

You cut off the part of his post where it says to call AINA for service if you're having feed issues. I'd be willing to bet they'd just swap the mag with the AT-X mag or the guts and then you wouldn't even have to buy the parts.

This. They swapped my mags out with the updated followers and adjusted feed lips for no charge. Only downside is you have to send them in.
 
I had the hinge get loose on my AXSR stock I swapped to my ATX chassis. Gave them a call, they emailed me a label while still on the phone and said they’d turn it around in less than a week. Damn them and their shitty service!!! (Slams fist on table!)
 
When I go to AI website it aeems they no longer advertise the atx maybe im missing something but sure seems that way. Maybe it never was meant to be something long term in their product line.
 
Just an update to show how fast AI turns around repairs, mag lips adjustments, etc…

My folder was sent on a Wednesday and showed back up today. 1 week. Pretty damn quick with zero issues. And now my hinge is tighter than your mom before she met your dad….
 
Well fuck me running, while waiting on a Spuhr mount I bought a Leupold 34mm AR scope mount, groups sucked, changed over to the Spuhr and i shot a one hole group at 100, “mounts matter”. While waiting on a guided night time pig hunt with thermals I was told a steel plate was 676 yards away, I said no way, dailed 4 mils and sent a round over the target, came down to 3.2 mils(525yds), and the next 10 were sub 1/2 moa(Norma 143). I ordered a folder mechanism from Mile High yesterday(not in stock but will ship when in) to ease in cleaning. This rifle continues to impress me, the center point balance is perfect, the trigger(my first 2 stage) is great, and the ease of 1 minute barrel changes is awesome, at my age I don’t anticipate buying another bolt gun for PRS type shooting.
 
Hadn’t checked in for a long while. Still shocked this thread got big and I haven’t come even close to reading them all. Need to take some actual glamor shots of the rifle but it’s got some new parts since I got it and just got my hinge last week. Been through (2) 6Creed barrels, almost done with a .308 Win barrel and halfway through my Proof Carbon 6 Creed barrel and she’s a well oiled, butter smooth machine. Biggest problem is keeping barrels lolView attachment 8032957
What has been your average barrel life for each barrel? Im particularly interested in the 308 lifespan
 
What has been your average barrel life for each barrel? Im particularly interested in the 308 lifespan
Haven’t burned my AI .308 Win Barrel out yet. To toasted one on another rifle at around 3,400 rounds. Same box of ammo my speed dropped 100fps overnight, in the middle of a 2-day match. Was a rough weekend lol. 6mm Creedmoor I started getting weird fliers, speeds and BC variance around 1200-1300 rounds. Ended up running the barrel to 1700 rounds in matches. Drove tacks up close and still prints 5-shot 1/2” groups. But every now and then throws weird fliers it never did before and the BC variance is so big it’s lucky to hit a Full IPSC at 1000yds because the bullet is getting so torn up leaving the muzzle. Basically no rifling for the first 5-6”
 
Anyone have a diagram or can tell me how to take apart an early gen 1 ATX? I don’t have the screw by the rear tang.
I just need to get the trigger out. Just shot a 2 day and it’s starting to feel like it’s losing some adjustment on the 2nd stage.
 
Anyone have a diagram or can tell me how to take apart an early gen 1 ATX? I don’t have the screw by the rear tang.
I just need to get the trigger out. Just shot a 2 day and it’s starting to feel like it’s losing some adjustment on the 2nd stage.

5 min with the 7 axis Dremel... Have it turned into a gen 4 in no time
 
Anyone have a diagram or can tell me how to take apart an early gen 1 ATX? I don’t have the screw by the rear tang.
I just need to get the trigger out. Just shot a 2 day and it’s starting to feel like it’s losing some adjustment on the 2nd stage.


Pull the buttstock off first. The two 5mm hex fasteners, then the 4 4mm hex behind it. Then pull the grip, under the grip is access to the rear screw. Front screw is through the mag well. Have to pull the QD cup as well iirc
 
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So there are more changes to the screw layout on the different versions as well?

I was only under the impression the butt stock was different....

What all is different if you order one today vs being one of the folks that waited a year for one in the beginning?
 
So there are more changes to the screw layout on the different versions as well?

I was only under the impression the butt stock was different....

What all is different if you order one today vs being one of the folks that waited a year for one in the beginning?
The early ones require more work to take apart to access something simple like the trigger. Makes no sense. These are things that should’ve all been checked with shooters before release 🤦‍♂️ makes me more inclined to use my AI AO instead.
 
So there are more changes to the screw layout on the different versions as well?

I was only under the impression the butt stock was different....

What all is different if you order one today vs being one of the folks that waited a year for one in the beginning?

Gen 1.5 and 3 only require 2 fasteners to be removed to say work on a trigger and they are easily accessed. The gen 1 requires 8 fasteners to be removed. 6 if you have a hinnge installed.
 
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Well that's interesting...

Didn't remember seeing anything about that

So just a pain in the ass If you comp trigger takes a dump mainly... still serviceable all the same just not as convenient

Anyone got a side by side comparison on the screw set up?
Or a parts explosion?

I'm genuinely curious
 
Only pictures I have on my phone at the moment.
the original early model (DE chassis)
Fastener location in red. These four need removed and then grip is removed to access rear chassis screw marked in blue

Fasteners marked in red are accessed by removing the two fasteners holding the buttstock adapter together (fixed models).
Folder you just fold it and the four screws are accessible.
Four total screws, two go into the upper part of chassis, two into the lower.


Gen 3 (ES chassis picture) you just remove the fastener marked in blue. Red indicates lower chassis, yellow shows where the upper and lower separate after removing fastener marked in blue.

Both chassis have the same fastener location up front on the front of the magwell
 

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Anyone running an ATX chassis on a Rem700 clone cut for AW mags, with AW mags?