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Accuracy International Picture Thread

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Fun day plinking with .308
 
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I’m a happy aics 1.5 poor… Awaiting a new barrel for a 700 action that will be mated to the chassis and awaiting a stock for the m24 action thats currently mated. Will switch when parts arrive. Really happy after taking it out a few times to play.
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I know I need a suppressor, it's next on the list.
But I have a question, has anyone had a barrel just not like a muzzle device? This 308 shoots lights out with 175 fggm. But when I screw on an area 419 brake it opens up to 2.5ish moa. Take the brake off back to .5-.75 moa. Brake shows no signs of strike. All my other guns love 419's, but this one hates it.
 

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Man that long bridge over the barrel makes the AT-X atleast three times as sexy. Cant stand the thing in red/blue without the bridge, but in camo and with the bridge its a beauty.
 
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I have an admittedly dumb question to ask those who have cerakoted their AXMC or AXSR.

The adjustable rear pad has a wheel that loosens the pad. I have seen that some cerakoted those as well to match the rest of the rifle. How is that done. Can you take that assembly apart to get at the wheel?
 
I know I need a suppressor, it's next on the list.
But I have a question, has anyone had a barrel just not like a muzzle device? This 308 shoots lights out with 175 fggm. But when I screw on an area 419 brake it opens up to 2.5ish moa. Take the brake off back to .5-.75 moa. Brake shows no signs of strike. All my other guns love 419's, but this one hates it.
It happens sometimes when you put a brake on. I had it happen to me on a couple of barrels and depending on the brake or brake and suppressor combo the barrel harmonics didn't like it to where it shot like total shit. Recently, I put Dead Air Brake with a Silencerco Hyrbid via KeyMo on my 300NM barrel. It opened up the group to over 2 MOA. Took the whole brake and QD setup off and made it into a direct thread Hybrid and it shot fine. Also had a APA LB Gen 2 on my 6.5CM barrel and shot like crap, took it off and put a suppressor on, and it shot fine.
 
It happens sometimes when you put a brake on. I had it happen to me on a couple of barrels and depending on the brake or brake and suppressor combo the barrel harmonics didn't like it to where it shot like total shit. Recently, I put Dead Air Brake with a Silencerco Hyrbid via KeyMo on my 300NM barrel. It opened up the group to over 2 MOA. Took the whole brake and QD setup off and made it into a direct thread Hybrid and it shot fine. Also had a APA LB Gen 2 on my 6.5CM barrel and shot like crap, took it off and put a suppressor on, and it shot fine.
Thank you for that. I've had great luck where my brakes always helped, this is new. This barrel is such a hammer I don't want to ruin it. Any chance a different brake could help?
 

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It could, you never know until you put one on. Also, sometimes the amount of torque applied to the brake/ mount will dramatically affect things as well. With the self timing brakes it basically is like a tuner. I recently switched over to a APA FB on the 300NM barrel and it's shooting fine.
 
I have an admittedly dumb question to ask those who have cerakoted their AXMC or AXSR.

The adjustable rear pad has a wheel that loosens the pad. I have seen that some cerakoted those as well to match the rest of the rifle. How is that done. Can you take that assembly apart to get at the wheel?

Yes - just pull it apart and coat it.
 
WOW!

I shoot a LOT of Federal 6.5 CM with the Berger 130 grain bullet out of my MC and have never seen that happen. Was this a handload or factory?
Factory ammo, proof barrel, and a 338 ultra sr gen 2 that was probably 250 rounds past where i really should have cleaned it.
 
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Factory ammo, proof barrel, and a 338 ultra sr gen 2 that was probably 250 rounds past where i really should have cleaned it.
Were you using a SFP or LFP bolt? Would that have something to do with it?
 
Were you using a SFP or LFP bolt? Would that have something to do with it?
Oh its the LFP assembly and I know I can fix it by either having LRI bush all three of my bolt bodies OR by getting a SFP assembly but neither is cheap and I just bought a new roof this week.... so back to shooting 308 for a minute 😁
 
Oh its the LFP assembly and I know I can fix it by either having LRI bush all three of my bolt bodies OR by getting a SFP assembly but neither is cheap and I just bought a new roof this week.... so back to shooting 308 for a minute 😁
I wish AI migrated the MC to the SFP. There is no chance of me obtaining a new SFP in LH.

I didn’t think LRI offered the service any longer
 
I wish AI migrated the MC to the SFP. There is no chance of me obtaining a new SFP in LH.

I didn’t think LRI offered the service any longer

They did migrate it to sfp just not for lefties lol
 
They sell 308 small firing pin bolts now, but the rifles don't come with a small firing pin. So you need to buy a small firing pin assembly to use it. And it sounds like there isn't a source for factory left hand small firing pin bolts.

Could be wrong, but my axsa was a large firing pin model and I had to buy a new bolt and firing pin. Otherwise it looked like the op's.
 
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Oh its the LFP assembly and I know I can fix it by either having LRI bush all three of my bolt bodies OR by getting a SFP assembly but neither is cheap and I just bought a new roof this week.... so back to shooting 308 for a minute 😁
LRI doesn’t bush AI bolts anymore!?
 
I think I remember hearing that too when I tried reaching out to them. I was getting pierced primers with factory 308 Lapua ammo and sent it to Speedy Gonzales a couple years ago. Haven’t had a pierced primer since.
 
HA!

Is that really true?

I heard that they went SFP with the AXSR but MCs were always LFP. Not sure of the ones sold only to LE today

They bushed my LH AMXC .308 and lapua bolts back in the fall, came to $374.76 with shipping
 
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Okay someone break down this large vs small firing pin. I have a late ‘14 how do I know and when will it affect me? I only run 308 out of mine.
 
If you have a 14 model then you have the large firing pin.

It'll affect you if you try to reload or shoot any of the higher pressure rounds. Mine had slight primer flow with FGMM 308win ammo but got pretty bad with handloads. The fix was either to get it bushed and have your firing pin turned down to fit. Or replace the bolt body and firing pin with the new small version.

Shooting factory 308win should never be a problem.
 
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If you have a 14 model then you have the large firing pin.

It'll affect you if you try to reload or shoot any of the higher pressure rounds. Mine had slight primer flow with FGMM 308win ammo but got pretty bad with handloads. The fix was either to get it bushed and have your firing pin turned down to fit. Or replace the bolt body and firing pin with the new small version.

Shooting factory 308win should never be a problem.
Sounds like I need to send it to LRI to be bushed lol
 
They bushed my LH AMXC .308 and lapua bolts back in the fall, came to $374.76 with shipping
Do you know what they actually do when they perform this service? Is it limited to the FP or does it rework the bolt as well?

I know AI also uses a ferritic nitrocarburizing treatment for their parts as well so after the FP are reduced in diameter, is there any coating applied?
 
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Do you know what they actually do when they perform this service? Is it limited to the FP or does it rework the bolt as well?

I know AI also uses a ferritic nitrocarburizing treatment for their parts as well so after the FP are reduced in diameter, is there any coating applied?

They drill out a small section around the bolt face firing pin hole to insert a "bushing" that has a smaller id firing pin hole.

They then turn down the firing pin to fit.

I don't know how the bushing is held in place.
 
They drill out a small section around the bolt face firing pin hole to insert a "bushing" that has a smaller id firing pin hole.

They then turn down the firing pin to fit.

I don't know how the bushing is held in place.
Is it more cost effective to do that or get a new firing pin from MH?

Or just leave it hell alone lol
 
Is it more cost effective to do that or get a new firing pin from MH?

Or just leave it hell alone lol

It was like 150 shipped for the whole thing from Lri iirm .

If you got the factory ai parts, you will need a new sfp bolt body and a new small firing pin if they will sell you one. If not you will need to order an entire sfp assembly. All up your probably 1k there.
 
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I’d personally be reluctant to do any aftermarket work to the bolt if you’re not having problems. There seems to be a good track record for having the firing pin bushed so I’d be surprised if there were problems, but I wouldn’t have gotten mine done if I didn’t need to.
 
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Okay @pfl338 latest flat trigger is now officially the best ai flatty out there if flat triggers are your jam. Serrations are perfect not to sharp but enough your finger stays put. Index bump is great for getting your finger in the same spot each pull. Well done pfl338..

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LRI does a fantastic job on bushing the AI bolts and turning down the firing pins. I had them bush the bolt for my AXMC before I even fired it because I never wanted to worry about cratering primers.

Where you might run into a problem is if you try and buy a spare firing pin from mile high to send to LRI to have them turn down for a spare. They prefer not to sell certain fire control and bolt components to end users, they would rather replace them under warranty when you send the rifle in. I had to talk to Adam and let him know what I was doing, then they sold me me one. I went through the same thing many years ago when I had Wade Stuteville bush the bolt on my AE Mk3 for 6 dasher and I wanted a spare firing pin, and same thing again a couple years ago when I wanted to send a spare firing pin to Enrique when he was doing my 223 conversion bolt.

If you buy a factory small firing pin bolt, there will be no questions regarding warranty if you ever have issues down the road... but the factory AI SFP bolts aren't cheap and as was mentioned some people have been waiting over a year for caliber conversion/SFP/LH bolts. Anyone who's had an AI knows that immediate parts availability is often one of their weak points. LRI on the other hand can turn around a bolt bushing job in a week typically.
 
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