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Entry level precision .22?

yomer said:
So I've now found both the varmint thumbhole and provarmint in stock and I'm extremely torn between the two. The ProVarmint is 16 inch barrel and the stick resembles my Bergara (HMR pro or whatever)

Is there any benefit to the longer barrel of the thumbhole? And the bottom of the stock toward the rear on the thumbhole makes it seem like a rear bag may be more difficult
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DFOOSKING said:
Traditional thumbholes suck for left hand stages. If its got a more open grip thumbhole....then it's not so much of a big deal.
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Good point. I'd agree (and dislike most thubhole stocks in general. They never seem to fit me and can be restrictive in hold. CZ did a nice job with this one though. It's ambidextrous , has a well designed comb, vertical grip and has the same pillar system as they put in their Varmint MTR. Mine works well enough with a rear bag too as it's slight curvature allows for easy elevation adjustments . As I said above, my only gripe is that it has a narrow tapered for end that will leave the rifle wanting to cant if shot on a rest and not used with a bipod.

For the OP, I couldn't decide between the THB and At-One back in July. I bought both figuring I'd sell one off. 7 months later, I'm keeping them both! :=)
 

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WeeHooker said:
Good point. I'd agree (and dislike most thubhole stocks in general. They never seem to fit me and can be restrictive in hold. CZ did a nice job with this one though. It's ambidextrous , has a well designed comb, vertical grip and has the same pillar system as they put in their Varmint MTR. Mine works well enough with a rear bag too as it's slight curvature allows for easy elevation adjustments . As I said above, my only gripe is that it has a narrow tapered for end that will leave the rifle wanting to cant if shot on a rest and not used with a bipod.

For the OP, I couldn't decide between the THB and At-One back in July. I bought both figuring I'd sell one off. 7 months later, I'm keeping them both! :=)
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Unfortunately I can only buy one...I am really torn and indecisive. I do love the aesthetic of the thumbhole, but I'm not sold on it being ideal for my use case. I also am just considering holding out until I can get the AT-ONE in stock, since it has the adjustable LOP and comb
 
At-One stocks don't hardly have shit for adjustment. Most guys need the adjusted cheekriser than the LOP. Especially on a gun shot majorily prone. If it were me, I'd get the tactical or whatever it's called and slap a Victor Company cheekriser (which is good AND cheap).
 
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DFOOSKING said:
At-One stocks don't hardly have shit for adjustment. Most guys need the adjusted cheekriser than the LOP. Especially on a gun shot majorily prone. If it were me, I'd get the tactical or whatever it's called and slap a Victor Company cheekriser (which is good AND cheap).
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Is the AT-ONE stock that bad?
 
WeeHooker said:
Good point. I'd agree (and dislike most thubhole stocks in general. They never seem to fit me and can be restrictive in hold. CZ did a nice job with this one though. It's ambidextrous , has a well designed comb, vertical grip and has the same pillar system as they put in their Varmint MTR. Mine works well enough with a rear bag too as it's slight curvature allows for easy elevation adjustments . As I said above, my only gripe is that it has a narrow tapered for end that will leave the rifle wanting to cant if shot on a rest and not used with a bipod.

For the OP, I couldn't decide between the THB and At-One back in July. I bought both figuring I'd sell one off. 7 months later, I'm keeping them both! :=)
Click to expand...
I guess at the end of the day, I can get the THB and if I don't like it, I can upgrade to a chassis. It's the cheapest option as well
 
My rec would be to buy a CZ 457 with a 20” or longer barrel, and the best wood you can personally inspect.
The longer barrels, in general, are more tolerant of various ammo.

Bic pen spring cut down for a lighter trigger, fabric cheek riser, 20 MOA rail should get you started.

When you are ready for upgrades, KRG Bravo blemish on sale or used will really help when you transition to open. Lastly, if you want one to hammer as well as any custom, give Kenny at Desert Precision Rifleworks a call.

CZs are great starter rifles with a fully supported upgrade path to go head to head with the customs.
YMMV, happy shooting
 
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DFOOSKING said:
Traditional thumbholes suck for left hand stages. If its got a more open grip thumbhole....then it's not so much of a big deal. The cheekrests are also not ideal.View attachment 8048479

^good luck holding that when on a time crunch


View attachment 8048480

^this one is much more forgiving on grip....cheek is worse.View attachment 8048484

^This asshole runs a thumbhole magnificently....but it's a universal design. Tactical thumbhole stocks are much more forgiving as they tend to take into account of things like LH shooters or positions.
Click to expand...

New guy here.


I have to agree with your opinion on the Boyds thumbhole stocks. My Savage MkII BTVLSS came with one and I don't care for it.

I do have a Rhineland Arms Leopard stock for the Savage. While it is a useful stock, it is a solid and heavy hunk of wood. I have since switched to a Rigid Alloy aluminum chassis for the MkII. It is a lot lighter but the downfall to it is the forend is quite a bit shorter. But it was the only chassis I could find for a left handed Savage MkII.

I haven't started competing but do enjoy pushing 22LR out there to test my skills. I know the Savage MkII is not favored for most competitions, but I do find that their heavy varmint barrels are accurate.
 
yomer said:
Is the AT-ONE stock that bad?
Click to expand...
I bested 40+ shooters (of all equipment levels ) at a 100 yd egg match last year with a stock 24" At-One. My At-One was the only rifle to clean the course that day ( In factory and unlimited classes). ( Not sure if I have the skill set to do that on demand butt eh rifle is capable.)

As for buying and changing the stock, that's doable but I believe that takes you out of factory class . Not sure if that's important to you.
 
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WeeHooker said:
I bested 40+ shooters (of all equipment levels ) at a 100 yd egg match last year with a stock 24" At-One. My At-One was the only rifle to clean the course that day ( In factory and unlimited classes).

As for buying and changing the stock, that's doable but I believe that takes you out of factory class . Not sure if that's important to you.
Click to expand...
How are the adjustments on the at-one stock? Are they flimsy/not very solid feeling?
 
yomer said:
How are the adjustments on the at-one stock? Are they flimsy/not very solid feeling?
Click to expand...
The adjustment buttons themselves are rather stiff to operate . That's OK given I usually set and forget. (This is a bench rifle for me) The adjustment range can be an issue for larger shooters that want to extend the max. Some movement/wobble can be experienced when the butt and/or comb is pushed near it's adjustment limits. I'm 5'8" and only need to set the adjustments about 1/2 way so my stock is very solid . ( FWIW, there seems to be a consensus on the stock adjustment limitations on another big CZ forum. )
ps. Important to note is that there are two different "At-One" stocks out there. The one that comes on the CZ rifle is quite a bit different from the one sold directly from Boyds. Often , when you read reviews, complaints etc, these two are mixed togeather.
 

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WeeHooker said:
The adjustment buttons themselves are rather stiff to operate . That's OK given I usually set and forget. (This is a bench rifle for me) The adjustment range can be an issue for larger shooters that want to extend the max. Some movement/wobble can be experienced when the butt and/or comb is pushed near it's adjustment limits. I'm 5'8" and only need to set the adjustments about 1/2 way so my stock is very solid . ( FWIW, there seems to be a consensus on the stock adjustment limitations on another big CZ forum. )
ps. Important to note is that there are two different "At-One" stocks out there. The one that comes on the CZ rifle is quite a bit different from the one sold directly from Boyds. Often , when you read reviews, complaints etc, these two are mixed togeather.
Click to expand...
I found an AT-ONE semi-locally. The adjustments didn't feel too bad, I went ahead and went with it.
 
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yomer said:
I found an AT-ONE semi-locally. The adjustments didn't feel too bad, I went ahead and went with it.
Click to expand...
Congrats! Come back and give us a review once you get it set-up and dialed in.
 
Your shooting NRL or just general target to 100 yds? Budget?
 
Hard to go wrong with a 30 MOA base unless are going to really push things distance wise.
Area 419 are nice, just be sure to use some loc-tite and a torque wrench. There is no recoil lug so they can slip if not attached correctly.

ETA:
Be sure to choose rings with an angled base like Seekins, Vortex Precision etc. Anything with a squared off base might hit the bolt.
www.snipershide.com

Need help with scope base.

Just started building my new CZ457 today and ran into a problem. I am using a Bscar scope base. After I installed it I put a pair of Leupold Mark IV rings on it. The problem is I can't cycle the bolt. The place where you screw the bolt handle to the bolt is striking the base of the ring. I...
www.snipershide.com www.snipershide.com
 
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6.5SH said:
Hard to go wrong with a 30 MOA base unless are going to really push things distance wise.
Area 419 are nice, just be sure to use some loc-tite and a torque wrench. There is no recoil lug so they can slip if not attached correctly.

ETA:
Be sure to choose rings with an angled base like Seekins, Vortex Precision etc. Anything with a squared off base might hit the bolt.
www.snipershide.com

Need help with scope base.

Just started building my new CZ457 today and ran into a problem. I am using a Bscar scope base. After I installed it I put a pair of Leupold Mark IV rings on it. The problem is I can't cycle the bolt. The place where you screw the bolt handle to the bolt is striking the base of the ring. I...
www.snipershide.com www.snipershide.com
Click to expand...
The most I'd ever try to push is maybe 400. I do you have any other base suggestions?
 
yomer said:
The most I'd ever try to push is maybe 400. I do you have any other base suggestions?
Click to expand...
There are other 30 MOA and less options but the fit on them is variable (scar). My comment on the Area 419 is not a criticism just informational. If you were trying to go past 500 then perhaps more than 30 MOA would be needed depending on your scope. For what you are looking at the 419 is a great choice, just mount it correctly and enjoy.
 
I have a CZ 457 Scout but I swapped to a KRG Bravo chassis with an Arken EP-5 scope for NRL22. I would say if you're price conscious, then you can't go wrong with a Ruger Precision Rimfire. They can be had for ~$450 with picatinny rail and full mlok handguard. With the CZ you have to get a pic rail for optics if you do not want to get dovetail mounts. However, my friend with the Ruger says the CZ bolt is much smoother.
 
The 419 rail is a good choice. Several of my CZ's wear one. That mount is a little higher than some which gives you a little more room around the opening in the receiver should you want to get your fingers in there for any reason. The 419 side clamping style also allows you to recheck the torque on the rail from time to time without removing the scope. For a scope, you'll likely want a side focus in first focal plane. These are pretty common in 6-24x50/56 or 5-25x56 sizes from many manufacturers. You'll need to figure out how much budget you have left to meet NRL rules.
 
WeeHooker said:
The 419 rail is a good choice. Several of my CZ's wear one. That mount is a little higher than some which gives you a little more room around the opening in the receiver should you want to get your fingers in there for any reason. The 419 side clamping style also allows you to recheck the torque on the rail from time to time without removing the scope. For a scope, you'll likely want a side focus in first focal plane. These are pretty common in 6-24x50/56 or 5-25x56 sizes from many manufacturers. You'll need to figure out how much budget you have left to meet NRL rules.
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I'm not too worried about the budget as far as NRL22 goes I think I'm gonna keep an eye out for a good deal or just get a Bushnell match pro.
 
What’s everybody’s hands on experience for an optic <$721 msrp for me to stay in the rimfire production class? Currently running cz457 at one but the athlon Midas tac I won puts me over the $1500 mark. Any real world experience is appreciated
 
southerngolfer said:
What’s everybody’s hands on experience for an optic <$721 msrp for me to stay in the rimfire production class? Currently running cz457 at one but the athlon Midas tac I won puts me over the $1500 mark. Any real world experience is appreciated
Click to expand...
This should work nicely. I have two of these. Nice turrets, solid build quality, 85moa of internal adjustment. Best glass quality I've found in the $500 price range too. I have it on good authority that one will be coming up in the classifieds soon too.

Vortex Venom Riflescopes

View all Vortex Venom Riflescopes
vortexoptics.com vortexoptics.com
 
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I've tried the following scopes on my various base and open class rimfire rifles: Athlon Argos BTR gen2 6-24x, Athlon Ares ETR 4.5-30x, Tract Toric 5-20x, Vortex Strike Eagle 5-25x, Arken gen1 SH-4 4-14x, and of course the Arken EP-5 5-25x.

From my personal experience, I highly recommend the Arken EP-5 5-25x mil/mil.

Reasons: glass quality is good enough to spot misses, translating turret allows for full use of elevation when used with the zero stop (a factor if going past 350 yards in NRL22x or rimfire ELR), illumination when shooting grayed out targets in the shade, combination of eye relief and field of view better than any of the scopes mentioned above, tall target tested at 99.5% with a tracking guarantee, parallax adjustment is well calibrated for 50-200 yards which is ideal for NRL22/PRS22 shooting (meaning, some rimfire specific scopes favor close up targets, ELR scopes favor further out, but dialing out parallax in the NRL22x/PRS22 was easiest in the Arken EP5)

IMHO, the performance of the scope overall is just a tad below the Vortex Strike Eagle.

I hope that helps, YMMV and happy shooting
 
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Mr. Wolf said:
I've tried the following scopes on my various base and open class rimfire rifles: Athlon Argos BTR gen2 6-24x, Athlon Ares ETR 4.5-30x, Tract Toric 5-20x, Vortex Strike Eagle 5-25x, Arken gen1 SH-4 4-14x, and of course the Arken EP-5 5-25x.

From my personal experience, I highly recommend the Arken EP-5 5-25x mil/mil.

Reasons: glass quality is good enough to spot misses, translating turret allows for full use of elevation when used with the zero stop (a factor if going past 350 yards in NRL22x or rimfire ELR), illumination when shooting grayed out targets in the shade, combination of eye relief and field of view better than any of the scopes mentioned above, tall target tested at 99.5% with a tracking guarantee, parallax adjustment is well calibrated for 50-200 yards which is ideal for NRL22/PRS22 shooting (meaning, some rimfire specific scopes favor close up targets, ELR scopes favor further out, but dialing out parallax in the NRL22x/PRS22 was easiest in the Arken EP5)

IMHO, the performance of the scope overall is just a tad below the Vortex Strike Eagle.

I hope that helps, YMMV and happy shooting
Click to expand...
this is exactly what I'm looking for, thank you. the Athlon Midas TAC I won, surprisingly I have been very impressed with coming from a NF on my centerfire match rifles. a friend pointed out that Bushnell game out with a msrp $700 option here recently so waiting on some real world data.
 
A good friend went with a tikka and is very happy with it, and it shoots just as well as the CZ‘s I have seen. Similar price range.
from what I have seen CZ mags are very hard to source as of late, while he had no problem buying spare tikka magazines.
the nrl national championship last year was won by a shooter running a mostly stock tikka, so they are very capable!
I started with a very base class rifle ( when the msrp limit was much more restrictive ) and soon moved to an open class gun. And while I like the concept of base class, I definitely felt the gear was holding me back a bit. ( not as much as my limited skills however!) so now the only excuse is me.
I will disagree with the poster that suggested going hole hog on a vudoo. Not everyone has that sort of budget. And a lot of us are realistic that we will never be at the top of the heap or walking to some stocked prize table. I certainly push myself to do my best, and enjoy getting a good score as much as the next guy, but I shoot for them experience and enjoyment and if I win so much the better ( I do win once in a while,but I don’t feel my day was wasted if i don’t finish in The top 3
 
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MajorD said:
A good friend went with a tikka and is very happy with it, and it shoots just as well as the CZ‘s I have seen. Similar price range.
from what I have seen CZ mags are very hard to source as of late, while he had no problem buying spare tikka magazines.
the nrl national championship last year was won by a shooter running a mostly stock tikka, so they are very capable!
I started with a very base class rifle ( when the msrp limit was much more restrictive ) and soon moved to an open class gun. And while I like the concept of base class, I definitely felt the gear was holding me back a bit. ( not as much as my limited skills however!) so now the only excuse is me.
I will disagree with the poster that suggested going hole hog on a vudoo. Not everyone has that sort of budget. And a lot of us are realistic that we will never be at the top of the heap or walking to some stocked prize table. I certainly push myself to do my best, and enjoy getting a good score as much as the next guy, but I shoot for them experience and enjoyment and if I win so much the better ( I do win once in a while,but I don’t feel my day was wasted if i don’t finish in The top 3
Click to expand...
There is certainly an argument to stay in factory class (regardless of event).. IMHO, factory class is more about testing a shooters skills than the depth of their wallet. FWIW, I like my Vudoo but enjoy shooting my CZ's just as much.
 
WeeHooker said:
There is certainly an argument to stay in factory class (regardless of event).. IMHO, factory class is more about testing a shooters skills than the depth of their wallet. FWIW, I like my Vudoo but enjoy shooting my CZ's just as much.
Click to expand...
I would tend to agree with that. When I want to challenge myself and brush up on my fundamentals I will run my T1X. It's quite a lot harder to run up a good score as my T1X is quite sensitive to cheek pressure, shoulder pressure and trigger press and weighs a lot less so I have to be on top of my game. On the other hand, my Vudoo will just sit there on a lot of stages and all I have to do is move it around and press the trigger to make decent hits. I enjoy them both.
 
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