Good Find!!!!
I have an older tikka t3 223 and want to build a lighter tikka and have the ability to switch between 223 and 7/08 so was thinking about buying a new t3x in 7/08 and swapping the bolt from the old t3 to the new t3x with a carbon barrel.
Just want to make sure the bolts are interchangeable between the t3 and t3x
Just want to make sure the bolts are interchangeable between the t3 and t3x
You can take a t3 bolt and put it into a t3x action. That will work fine, as far as that goes. For the rifle to headspace correctly, the new barrels need to have correct tenon. Its not clear that the t3x has a new tenon print, AFAIK they are the same. You can confirm this with your barrel supplier of course.
ETA - There is still the question of magazines and bolt stops, but those should be obvious. Keep in mind the Tikka .223 bolt stop is unique and AFAIK not widely available as a spare part... so don't lose it !
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Or get 1 bolt stop that works for everything
highvelocityhuntingaustralia.com.au
Tikka Bolt Stop Adjustable | HVHA
Our adjustable Tikka Bolt Stops fit both the Tikka T3 and Tikka T3x, our Bolt Stops allow loading of cartridges with long Case overall lengths
highvelocityhuntingaustralia.com.au Curious if anyone has actually done a tear down of the lug on a Tax A1...
FWIW a KRG chassis has steel recoil lug, aluminum back bone, and Expoxy bedding the recoil lug... I don't have specific information on the TAC A1 chassis, just keep in mind you won't be able to necessarily tell what is there by looking at it.
Does the KRG chassis come with its own recoil lug?
Thanks man. yeah, i havent been able to find a tear down of it anywhere. I know on other Tikkas, that the lug is removable, and just sits loose in the hole, but it dosent seem to be the case with the Tac A1.
Another thought about the Tac a1.
At the bottom of the holes, where the action screws goes in, on the surface, where the underside of the screwheads torque up against, there is som small nothces. Theese notches matches the notches on the washers that comes with the screws. This should help the actionscrews not coming loose. You can also hear a loud "click" when loosing the actionscrews, wich i guess is the screws coming off the notches.
Since i live in Denmark, i hunt alot in the rain. Therefore, i often takes the stock off, to clean and apply oil to prevent rust.
I cant help but wondering, if theese notches will wear out over time, resulting in the actionscrews not being able to stay tight?
None of my other Tikkas have theese notches, and never comes loose. however, the Tac A1 is a aluminium chassis, and it dosent have the same feel getting more and more snug when i tighten the screws.
Am i overthinking this?
At the bottom of the holes, where the action screws goes in, on the surface, where the underside of the screwheads torque up against, there is som small nothces. Theese notches matches the notches on the washers that comes with the screws. This should help the actionscrews not coming loose. You can also hear a loud "click" when loosing the actionscrews, wich i guess is the screws coming off the notches.
Since i live in Denmark, i hunt alot in the rain. Therefore, i often takes the stock off, to clean and apply oil to prevent rust.
I cant help but wondering, if theese notches will wear out over time, resulting in the actionscrews not being able to stay tight?
None of my other Tikkas have theese notches, and never comes loose. however, the Tac A1 is a aluminium chassis, and it dosent have the same feel getting more and more snug when i tighten the screws.
Am i overthinking this?
In general, IMHO this isn't ever a good sign when dealing with aluminum threads...ask me how I know
However, if you are talking about your main action screws, the actual threads in cro-moly action body are typically strong/resistant to galling vs stainless and WAY stronger than something threaded directly into ALU.
If you are losing feel on any bolt in general.... it could be a number of reasons short of stripping the fasterer/thread...but sounds like you are looking at all the intermediate-interfaces...
Thanks for the reply. I think theese notches/small indents are made from the factory, to help the screw not backing out. im not worryed about stripping the screws, it dosent feel like that. What im thinking is, that maybe over time, theese notches will getiing round off, and therefore loose there purpose? i will try to get some pics so its more clear what i mean.In general, IMHO this isn't ever a good sign when dealing with aluminum threads...ask me how I know
However, if you are talking about your main action screws, the actual threads in cro-moly action body are typically strong/resistant to galling vs stainless and WAY stronger than something threaded directly into ALU.
If you are losing feel on any bolt in general.... it could be a number of reasons short of stripping the fasterer/thread...but sounds like you are looking at all the intermediate-interfaces...
Just in case anyone hasn't seen it yet, Unknown Munitions are about to release the RokStok, which will include left and right handed for Tikka actions: https://rokslide.com/forums/threads/rokstok.329754/
Podcast discussion here: https://shoot2hunt.com/50-the-rokstock/
Podcast discussion here: https://shoot2hunt.com/50-the-rokstock/
Buttstock looks upside down.
Negative comb so recoil doesn't punch you in the face. Also allows a higher cheek piece without getting in the way of the bolt travel
How do you clean it? The stock is .5in over the bore centreline... (sorry I haven't read the whole thread)
Fixed it for you!
But in all seriousness, it's worth reading through the whole thread to pick out the design thinking. There's a lot of noise in there with people announcing what colors they want, etc - just ignore that. The simplest thing to do is just scan for posts by Form, Ryan, and Unknown Munitions, all of whom designed it.
Or listen to the podcast, which covers most of the high points.
From your posts here, @LeftyJason, my guess is you might find the design thinking behind this to be pretty interesting. And the fact that they wanted to go with a Tikka inlet first says something about knowing what works.
Mine is in a left converted whiskey 3 and my t1x is in left converted Mdt Xrs.Fixed it for you!
But in all seriousness, it's worth reading through the whole thread to pick out the design thinking. There's a lot of noise in there with people announcing what colors they want, etc - just ignore that. The simplest thing to do is just scan for posts by Form, Ryan, and Unknown Munitions, all of whom designed it.
Or listen to the podcast, which covers most of the high points.
From your posts here, @LeftyJason, my guess is you might find the design thinking behind this to be pretty interesting. And the fact that they wanted to go with a Tikka inlet first says something about knowing what works.
Also I have yet to hunt.
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Maybe it’s because I am a fellow cold-weather shooter, but I love your vids. That’s a one-piece snow suit, right? We call them a snowmobile suit in Minnesota.
I just spent the last 3 days reading thru this thread start to finish… I’m mentally exhausted.
Shooting and sniffing is a lot of fun. I’m surprised that he doesn’t know this
Yes sir, ice fishing hauler, might not look pritty, but it´s sure the most warmest clothing that i have.
When temperature is -20C, you dont want to think the look, just keep your self warm
65 inc/lbs, same in all KRG chassis, and that works.
i use torq wrench, i tested it, too tight or loose, the rifle wont shoot as well.
new rifle w/i/p
T3X SV .243
KRG Bravo Chassis
23F
2mph wind
90gr
100yds
T3X SV .243
KRG Bravo Chassis
23F
2mph wind
90gr
100yds
Pretty stoked on how this build came out. Ordered a 300wsm, pulled the barrel and replaced with a 6.5prc proof, added ec tuner brake, xray chassis, backfire butt pad, bolt knob insert, and a 5-25 strike eagle. Looking forward to breaking it in on Sunday and hunting some axis deer next month. You guys think it will prefer the 147eldm or the 156 Berger bullets with that barrel?
Attachments
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Australian made, Total Hunter OIC-T.
If you want to learn language of Tikka, listen to this ;D
One of my 3 Tikkas that i currently have.
I sold TAC A1 223Rem 3 years ago, and 6.5 PRC about 2 years ago, these 3 still left.
I understood the "Burp" and the word "video".
Just want to mention, that the only thing Tikka on your rifles seems to be the receiver.
Just want to mention, that the only thing Tikka on your rifles seems to be the receiver.
So because my Tikka is not in the factory specs, i should not write on Tikka thread no more?
Video title is, my rifles.
How i have build those, and mods that i have done on these.
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Had to take a brake.
Whole deam week has been about -34F outside, just keeping the fire on the fireplace.
Next week looks better, reloaded some ammo, if the trigger finger starts itch
32F
Wind 5mph
200 yds
w/i/p new rifle
T3X SV .243
Adjusted torque 65.5lbs.
Wind 5mph
200 yds
w/i/p new rifle
T3X SV .243
Adjusted torque 65.5lbs.
Is this a new rifle??32F
Wind 5mph
200 yds
w/i/p new rifle
T3X SV .243
Adjusted torque 65.5lbs.
Choose your own Tikka rifle from a variety of innovative models
Tikka is able to meet the requirements of modern hunters by combining traditional gunsmith know-how with advanced technology. Choose your own Tikka rifle now!
choose.tikka.fi A new rifle for me. Yes. Probably fired a 100 rounds, setting it up, testing different ammos, learning the scope, etc. Changed the chassis from stock to KRG Bravo.
So how long does a Tikka barrel actually last? I see some people sending 100rds through it just setting it up. If it only last 1,000rds - that’s 10% of the barrel used up.
I have also seen nightmares trying to get that barrel off…..$500 worth of vices and action removal tools jus to do that - then of course the cost of the new barrel….
Anyone know of these can go 2,000+ rds??
I have also seen nightmares trying to get that barrel off…..$500 worth of vices and action removal tools jus to do that - then of course the cost of the new barrel….
Anyone know of these can go 2,000+ rds??
Being a Tikka has zero bearing on barrel life… it’s entirely cartridge and usage dependent.
308/223/non-magnum 6.5s will all easily do 2k+ rounds assuming you’re using normal ammo, shooting cadence, and cleaning intervals. Hot rod ammo, long strings of fire without letting the barrel cool, and/or subpar maintenance will all decrease barrel life.
And lastly, if a one-time investment of $500 in tools is a deterrent, chances are you won’t be shooting enough or swapping barrels enough for it to make a difference vs. just paying a gunsmith when you do…
