I love that stuff. Mine has aluminum inserts in it and I have more plans for it. Once the shelves are up and all it will he perfect. Very happy with my slatwall
- Thread starter sirhrmechanic
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Those are for dillon toolheads. Dude I found on ebay made em for me. I love them. He color coded the calibers to match my existing color code for my dies in the 4 calibers I load. I just only have one tool head set up because I'm rearranging how all that's done and have new dies and stuff and haven't set it up yet.
This is him, really nice guy and I think I paid a total of like $8 each. They also have the caliber embossed on them. Sorry it's a crappy picture but this is them.
sc27_designs on ebay. Highly recommend him.
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Like @Rimfire Jesus said, I too have a bit of a habit of putting too much in drawers and then forgetting I have some little tools or whatever. I want to have a lot out where I can see it but I want it to be kept organized.
I have these brackets o painted and will put thick fir boards I will make in my shop on them to make big shelves. 4 shelves around 28".
I also have a ton of those 4 or 5 inch straight slatwall hanger things but I kind of want to paint them too.
Then I have these plastic bins that hang but i dont really like that they are clear. I got a bunch of stuff from Bed Bath and Beyond when they closed and sold off stuff super cheap. I may paint those things too but I'm worried they'd get scratched and then look horrible.
Between those 3 methods I should be able to store and organize a lot but still be able to see it. I have my really small stuff in the roller cart thing I bought but it's full already so I'm going to need to move some stuff around.
I like the idea of some pull out bins for brass to be kept in a cabinet so I can have ready to load brass in them for each caliber. (Any Recs would be appreciated). The fires brass will probably go in the closet in some kind of Tucker tote thing or Tupperware.
I have these brackets o painted and will put thick fir boards I will make in my shop on them to make big shelves. 4 shelves around 28".
I also have a ton of those 4 or 5 inch straight slatwall hanger things but I kind of want to paint them too.
Then I have these plastic bins that hang but i dont really like that they are clear. I got a bunch of stuff from Bed Bath and Beyond when they closed and sold off stuff super cheap. I may paint those things too but I'm worried they'd get scratched and then look horrible.
Between those 3 methods I should be able to store and organize a lot but still be able to see it. I have my really small stuff in the roller cart thing I bought but it's full already so I'm going to need to move some stuff around.
I like the idea of some pull out bins for brass to be kept in a cabinet so I can have ready to load brass in them for each caliber. (Any Recs would be appreciated). The fires brass will probably go in the closet in some kind of Tucker tote thing or Tupperware.
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Yeah, it's reinforced Lozier slatwall. It looks like a retail liquidation.
I built my benches as floor cabinets with 5/8" plywood and topped it with butcher block. I left the cabinet facing off and sized the shelving (height x depth) very deliberately for two things. 8lb and 1lb powder bottles. Cheap Walmart tupperware containers for brass and bullets. But damn, that shit keeps growing. This last bench I built this summer was a required growth for the RL1100 I bought and a reproducing amount of brass bins that were accumulating in the garage without a storage location in the reloading room. I had a comfortable, Craig's list leather couch in the reloading room facing a TV that I had to sacrifice for more bench space and under cabinet storage. And I already need to expand again.
Yeah the Walmart Tupperware containers is probably what I will use too. I've been using whatever plastic container we had left over at home but I'd like them to be bigger first of all, and all to be the same size/stackable, and so I can label them. I'm trying to organize as much as is reasonable so I can limit how much it all grows and so it stays in the reloading room. Both of those things are very difficult tasks to achieve in the longer term, and I've yet to be successful successful at it. I'm hoping I can get there this time.
If you like organization, buying the Avery printable labels and pre-printing "dirty, fired", "cleaned, processed", and "6BR, 308, 223, etc" is a good way to stay up to midnight dicking around in the reloading room. You get all those bins lined up and looking uniform with labels on them and it's OCD heaven.
I’ve used my wife’s cricut machine to make lots of labels for different items in my gun room works great like you said.
Carpet smells when the wet dog lays down on it,
Inconvenience.
But a more technical aspect is that carpet builds up a static charge in me that could light a brush fire in the rain, a 2 inch long blue streak of light that cracks like you broke 1150 fps.
The clear shoe box wally world containers dont do good stacked with bullets in them kind of flimsy. I use them and instead of printed labels I use 3x5 cards marked with a marksalot and taped on the inside of the front face.
Bulk dirty brass goes into 5 gallon buckets on the floor since it hurts my back to lift I just transfer working qualities to 1 gallon pork rind plastic containers then plastic mayo jars for on the bench .
Primers stack good in the wally world boxes and bulk bullets go in peanut butter etc. jars so they won't break easily.
I'm, replacing almost all the wally boxes with the gallon plastic screw top food containers.
I need to find where I can buy 1 gallon food containers so I don't have to eat all those pork rinds.
Merry Christmas you bunch of deplorables.
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I don't print a lot of labels, so I didn't spend much on a printer. But this thing does everything I need it to;
The other item that I've gotten a lot of use out of;
There is nothing wrong with a good slatwall. If you want to put extra weight up just recognize the problem and solve it with extra support from the beginning. It can be well organized and attractive if done right.
I put all the little reloading stuff in those black toolboxes on the left bench and the larger stuff goes in the cabinet off to the left. I take out what I need and put it away when finished as I don't like leaving stuff sitting out. Yes, as you can see, the drawers have labels 
The laundry room in the house I just bought was a DIY epoxy job by the previous owner. He didn't do a great job. I hate it. A bad epoxy floor job is worse than a dirt floor.
Yeah I do need a label maker. The last time I tried it with the printer and the label sheets, I kept having trouble with them lining up right, so a label maker is definitely in order.
Yeah I looked at a bunch of them and decided on this wooden cart with a bunch of drawers but I will probably end up still getting a metal toolbox with drawers too. They probably work really good.I put all the little reloading stuff in those black toolboxes on the left bench and the larger stuff goes in the cabinet off to the left. I take out what I need and put it away when finished as I don't like leaving stuff sitting out. Yes, as you can see, the drawers have labels
View attachment 8304797
I have an epoxy floor in my reloading room done by the previous owner. It's pretty well done, it wouldn't be my first choice if doing it over though. I'll probably do an engineered hardwood floor in the future if I don't just do the entire floor in 3/4" stall mat.
Oh, how the things change over the years. Here is my bench years later.
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LVP is ideal for that type of space and situation, just get some decent quality stuff if you are doing a bigger space. Neptune makes a very good LVP product.
Not sure if the stall mat comment was for me. I have a piece of stall mat on the top of the short toolbox that sits between the two benches. The mat that is on the surface of the two benches and the floor is similar, but it has a smoother texture than a stall mat. I don't usually spill any powder and the few bits that are there with small brass shaving are cleaned up with a small shop vac.
Here is the stall mat on the tool box
This is the rubber mat on the benches
Here is the stall mat on the tool box
This is the rubber mat on the benches
I used 3/4" stall mat in my gym. I took some of the 1/2" stall mat from my old gym and have it in my reloading room now. The 3/4" has quite a bit more give under foot which is why I'm considering doing the entire floor. When you lay it over concrete or subfloor it has a nice feel. It is fairly porous though and shows dirt; my gym floor has chalk stains. a 4'x6' sheet of 3/4" weighs 90lbs. My floor is Gypsum-Crete and has hydronic radiant heat in it.
Yup my DIL has it in her workout room and it is cushy also tough stuff.
I admit it I'm a spiller.
Everything reloading related has hit the floor one time or another, but it all hit a plane oak wood floor.
In the winter with the dry heat it strips me of static so long as I don't have rubber sole shoes.
I wonder if the horse mat will insulate or conduct?
I admit it I'm a spiller.
Everything reloading related has hit the floor one time or another, but it all hit a plane oak wood floor.
In the winter with the dry heat it strips me of static so long as I don't have rubber sole shoes.
I wonder if the horse mat will insulate or conduct?
Use the nembot on amazon...they are bluetooth and great for copt and pasting lables quick for range cards
Use nembots Bluetooth printer Amazon)...it's lightning fast stays charged for days and is great for range cards too
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Just refinished the top surface of my bench and put some Inline Fab mounts in. Still getting stuff put back where it belongs. There is a large metal cabinet off to the left for storage of components and ammo. 
Very nice! That would be total overkill for me. I just don’t have that much gear and stuff. But it is practically a work of art. Well done!
I finally get to post that there are some nice rl spaces…..for myself, humble spare bedroom but that may soon be taken over…..
How many hours would all of you estimate spending in said area?
How many hours would all of you estimate spending in said area?
Where do you source the shorter cabinets for the desk height. Everything I search is kitchen height....
I got these and built my own cabinet bases
Prepac HangUps 3-Drawer Base Storage Cabinet, White https://a.co/d/4grgdis
Anyone have a really great way to organize various stuff to go in cabinets? I am strongly considering silverware divider things for some drawers but I need to have some good organization in a few cabinets too for storage of all the various crap we all have in upper and lower cabinets?
I've looked at some stackable plastic containers but I don't want to have to get a container out of a stack of em just to access my stuff. Any good suggestions would be appreciated.
I've looked at some stackable plastic containers but I don't want to have to get a container out of a stack of em just to access my stuff. Any good suggestions would be appreciated.
Size of what you need to store and depth of cabinets will drive what you like best. I have some acro bins stacked in a 14” deep cabinet and it’s not bad if they’re only two high per shelf.
I’ve been flirting with the idea of an apothecary cabinet for my new space - lots of little drawers, and doesn’t look like gun stuff since it needs to be slightly discreet.
I’ve been flirting with the idea of an apothecary cabinet for my new space - lots of little drawers, and doesn’t look like gun stuff since it needs to be slightly discreet.
I'm going to simplify storage and just put a giant blue 50gallon drum in the center of the room. Everything small will go in it. That way I never to look for anything. Only one place it could be.
If you mean, spending in the work area loading ammo, for me a very minimal amount of time normally. It comes in spurts. 6-8 hours a couple of days every 6 months or so.
Kind of like a spurt of activity followed by months of relatively no activity in the loading room. This is why my loading space is a shared space.
Not as much as I'd like to. I should be about 8-10 hours a week though normally, depending on how tired I am at night and how early I have to get up the next day for work. If I get a Sunday afternoon in the loading room then that would be more.
Yeah. I found these stackable plastic drawers that will fit really well in my closet that I built thr shelves in for this purpose and I think that will be my main storage for brass. I will have 8 individual bins to pull out and each will hold about 200 or so 308 size cases, so 223 I'd be able to do maybe 300 per or so.
I'm really considering these double decker pull outs for 3 of the lower cabinets and then keeping all the bigger stuff in there, leaving my uppers and drawers (with silverware insert trey in a few to divide) for all my smaller stuff. I will probably get a few of the small plastic drawer stack things too for the really small stuff to go in one of the upper cabinets.
That should do it, with the other shelves and hooks and stuff I have for the slat wall.
My cabinet drawers aren’t the greatest, but for small parts and equipment, I use plastic bullet boxes. They are tough, easy to stack and fit great in small places. Simply mark them with a bullet sticker or masking tape and a permanent marker. Some of my boxes are 20 years old and they keep on working.
Yeah I store some of the small parts in Berger boxes also. It's the larger overall stuff like what I may put a Berger box in that I've been struggling with.
I got that label maker coming too, which between that and the plastic drawers it should help a lot.
I’m going to turn my office into a reloading and bass rod building room. Running into the same issue. I see cheap cabinet bases that I want to use, but they are all kitchen height.
Anyone using a tall bench and hate it? Because I’m leaning that way.
I use a countertop height bench (37") and think it's perfect. I do most work standing and keep a stool at the bench for the few task I want to sit down to do. Aren't kitchen counters 36"? Or are the cheapo cabinets 30" or 32" like a bathroom counter?
Re: tall bench. I set my work surface up at desk height and use a computer chair for comfort. Works pretty well, unless you want to stand and reload which becomes problematic.
Kitchen height is 36". Used to be, you had "vanity height " cabinets for bathrooms, but no one uses those anymore, they have all gone to 36" height.
I have 36" lowers with a 2" thick top and I love it being higher up, much more comfortable both sitting and standing for me.
The ones I’m looking at are 34.5” tall, then of course you’ll add the height of your bench top.
Yeah, that's normal height now days. The overall is normally 36" - 37-1/4" with top but it varies depending on when the cabinets are installed if they are on top of flooring or built up to meet flooring ect.....
I just built base cabinets out of 3/4" and 1/2" plywood. It was cheaper than buying cabinets and I made them to the height, depth and lengths that I wanted them. Top them with butcher block and you are done. I doubt I could commercially sell them as kitchen cabinets. But they are really sturdy and said exactly how I want. And I saved money
I might buy a planer and build a butcher block style top out of 2x4s.
Good enough for reloading unless you consider a hammer a reloading tool.
Having a solid top that doesn't deflect when running a press handle would be my priority. If the top mars or scratches with use would be minor issue. I manage now with a bendy bench top but it would be a nice improvement to have a rock solid bench.
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