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Suppressors Suppressed Contenders anyone

sirhrmechanic

Command Sgt. Major
Full Member
Minuteman
Since Welrods are totally unaffordium... I put together a .38 barrel for my Contender this weekend.

Whisper quiet and really accurate With .38 swc and WC rounds. The splat of the round on steel is substantially louder than the firing.

had to make up centers for the barrel threading. Not all the old contender barrels are as true as one would think!
14C9303F-D4FD-4B72-AEB9-56C1E672F835.jpeg



8967B6F1-E307-406F-9192-B7BB8BE6B4D4.jpeg


Added an old red dot I had from an AR and presto... plinking magic!

Anyone else suppress Contender??

Sirhr
 
I run a 14.5 inch 30 Herret ,had a AAC 51t mount welded on for sdn-6. topped with a Vortex pst 1-4 , with 125-130 var bul and trailboss. 2" gps at 100 yds . two loudest sounds you hear is the hamer fall and the target impact. fun fun
 
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Yes, it’s been on my To-Do list for a while but haven’t gotten to it, I would probably go with an Encore also. In the world of subs bigger is better so I was also looking at something in .458 for the real heavies that Mike Casselton mentioned. .451 might be a good compromise also but it all depends on getting the right twist rate.
 
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A buddy has a 16" suppressed Handi-Rifle in 357. With158 gr SWC .38 specials, all you hear is the hammer fall and the bullet hit the target.
 
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We were talking about converting a 16" 45-70 the other day.
Maybe something like a 600gr projectile at 900fps?

Still sounds like it might hurt a little
I have a 14” ported bull barrel 45/70. It is a handful but more a shove than a kick in the head. I download the rounds too. A full bore 45/70 would be painful!

cheers. Sirhr
 
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I have a 14” ported bull barrel 45/70. It is a handful but more a shove than a kick in the head. I download the rounds too. A full bore 45/70 would be painful!

cheers. Sirhr

Gonna let @8pointer shoot it on Thursday. I have it set up as a carbine right now with a red dot on top.
Got some fairly mild 405 loads for him to try.

Might step him up to a TC/Marlin load just for fun, if he ain't payin attention. 🤪
 
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Yes, it’s been on my To-Do list for a while but haven’t gotten to it, I would probably go with an Encore also. In the world of subs bigger is better so I was also looking at something in .458 for the real heavies that Mike Casselton mentioned. .451 might be a good compromise also but it all depends on getting the right twist rate.

Do one in a 480 Ruger or a heavy weight 45 LC.
 
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I have wanted to find someone to thread a 22lr barrel I have, and then maybe buy/thread a 44 mag and shoot 300gr specials thru it. Maybe the 44 needs to come first, I think the 22lr would get old having a single shot. My bolt 77/22 with can is stupid quiet with CCI quiets, and at least you can shoot it pretty quickly.
 
I have one in 3006 with a omega 300 can. Very fun to shoot with.
 
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Gonna let @8pointer shoot it on Thursday. I have it set up as a carbine right now with a red dot on top.
Got some fairly mild 405 loads for him to try.

Might step him up to a TC/Marlin load just for fun, if he ain't payin attention. 🤪
Gotta feeling the steel is gonna need more than repainting
 
I have wanted to find someone to thread a 22lr barrel I have, and then maybe buy/thread a 44 mag and shoot 300gr specials thru it. Maybe the 44 needs to come first, I think the 22lr would get old having a single shot. My bolt 77/22 with can is stupid quiet with CCI quiets, and at least you can shoot it pretty quickly.
You can buy a 'cheap' .44 mag shot barrel. If it doesn't have chokes, etc. they can be inexpensive.

The .22 barrels are easy to thread. But you may want to have it done on centers. I am not impressed with their concentricity on the OD.

But a subsonic .44 special load would be a wicked nice shooter!

Cheers,

Sirhr
 
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(....and you've got a machine lathe)
4 Lathes actually... Little toy atlas for threading... South bend for roughing. Monarch for the good stuff. And a 18" swing, 8' gap bed LeBlonde for doing aircraft carrier propellor shafts.

Refer to them as: "The Toy, the one that will hurt you, the one that will maim you... and the one that will kill you." I think it fits.

The Atlas is a great threading piece!

Cheers,

Sirhr
 
You can buy a 'cheap' .44 mag shot barrel. If it doesn't have chokes, etc. they can be inexpensive.

The .22 barrels are easy to thread. But you may want to have it done on centers. I am not impressed with their concentricity on the OD.

But a subsonic .44 special load would be a wicked nice shooter!

Cheers,

Sirhr
I've got a 96/44 Ruger lever gun that I'm trying to find someone to thread. Most don't want to mess with something out of the ordinary but I think it would be fun. the 44 bolt guns with integral cans are pretty cool, thought the lever might be cool, fast and quiet.
 
I've got a 96/44 Ruger lever gun that I'm trying to find someone to thread. Most don't want to mess with something out of the ordinary but I think it would be fun. the 44 bolt guns with integral cans are pretty cool, thought the lever might be cool, fast and quiet.
The toughest part is probably getting the barrel out so it can go in a lathe. No fun getting the barrels out of most lever guns. And getting them back 'straight.'

Suppressed Lever guns are beyond cool!

1597785747772.png


How about an old 94 with Maxim?

Sirhr
 
A buddy has a 16" suppressed Handi-Rifle in 357. With158 gr SWC .38 specials, all you hear is the hammer fall and the bullet hit the target.
I have the same often I say its my least expesive gun and my most fun to shoot. Click ------ding awesome
 
You can buy a 'cheap' .44 mag shot barrel. If it doesn't have chokes, etc. they can be inexpensive.

The .22 barrels are easy to thread. But you may want to have it done on centers. I am not impressed with their concentricity on the OD.

But a subsonic .44 special load would be a wicked nice shooter!

Cheers,

Sirhr

From what I've read about barrels you pretty well always want to turn on centers if you can get away with it. That's always how I have dabbled in it myself, In my (limited) experience I'd rather have rests, centers and a longer bed than a bigger through hole. My little Atlas 12X36 is surprisingly capable at its base specs for gun smithing, shame it's so clapped out.

Re:Suppressor hosts I'm in IL so it's gonna be horrible to my wallet if they ever approve them here. I'll be out 1K in tax stamps the first month it happens probably and a ton of money in tubing/lathe tooling after that! The Thompson is cool, I'm thinking I want to go more modern and do something like a straight pull AR with a side charger handle. I have a 450 Bushmaster straight pull that'd be a riot to do. I think 350 Legend would be a fun choice too. Casting, powder coating and sizing down some of the 35 Rem bullets and go to town is what I'm thinking. A bit high in case capacity for a can but I doubt a 35 cal can would go to waste pretty well ever.
 
I just discovered this and had to bring it back to life. Anyone shoot 300blk suppressed out of a 10” or so contender? I was thinking about picking up a frame and doing either .223 or 300blk.
 
I just discovered this and had to bring it back to life. Anyone shoot 300blk suppressed out of a 10” or so contender? I was thinking about picking up a frame and doing either .223 or 300blk.
Not a 10” but this is my 300blk. I want to be able to put a stock on it, so I went with 16”. I found a ‘rifle’ forearm so I could easily put a bipod on it. Pretty happy with everything. I call it my pirate gun
71903501298__62FD8601-142B-4030-B584-FF9725354248.jpeg
 
Not a 10” but this is my 300blk. I want to be able to put a stock on it, so I went with 16”. I found a ‘rifle’ forearm so I could easily put a bipod on it. Pretty happy with everything. I call it my pirate gun
View attachment 8338119
How’s it shoot accuracy wise? What brand barrel? I’d imagine it’s movie quiet out of an action like that.
 
One thing to keep in mind. if you order a barrel new from mgm, i’d consider getting it cut for a muzzleloader forearm. Its their strongest attachment method. Also, muzzleloader furniture is the easiest and cheapest to find
Ok I have a lot to learn, I’ll try to read up as much as I can. I still don’t have an action yet either, but I love the cougar on the gen 1. Thanks for the tip!
 
I just discovered this and had to bring it back to life. Anyone shoot 300blk suppressed out of a 10” or so contender? I was thinking about picking up a frame and doing either .223 or 300blk.

I have, but if you want to actually kill stuff a 38 Spl barrel is better IMO and just as quiet, more so if you're comparing factory ammo in both. A 158gr lead hollow point 38 Spl round is very quiet from one of these (the one I built has about a 6" barrel IIRC, stops right at the front of the handguard), and uses quite a bit less powder than factory subsonic 300 Blk. The larger diameter bullets expand easier as well, and are plentiful. In something like this I don't think the 300 Blk has any advantage at all (and I do shoot and load for it in multiple firearms, so I'm not biased against it).

I dialed this gun in for a 230gr Hammerhead wadcutter loaded to 900 fps over Green Dot, with drops matched up to a BDC reticle on a compact scope. Pretty decent little package that's easy to hit with and very quiet. I wouldn't hesitate to use it on game up to deer size.
 
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I have, but if you want to actually kill stuff a 38 Spl barrel is better IMO and just as quiet, more so if you're comparing factory ammo in both. A 158gr lead hollow point 38 Spl round is very quiet from one of these (the one I built has about a 6" barrel IIRC, stops right at the front of the handguard), and uses quite a bit less powder than factory subsonic 300 Blk. The larger diameter bullets expand easier as well, and are plentiful. In something like this I don't think the 300 Blk has any advantage at all (and I do shoot and load for it in multiple firearms, so I'm not biased against it).

I dialed this gun in for a 230gr Hammerhead wadcutter loaded to 900 fps over Green Dot, with drops matched up to a BDC reticle on a compact scope. Pretty decent little package that's easy to hit with and very quiet. I wouldn't hesitate to use it on game up to deer size.
So I need iron sights for the one shoot I go to often, and I already reload .223. Also, I will have a 300blk upper once it’s released from jail ( pinned and welded can). My current can is a tbac ultra 7 in .30 cal. So to do .38 I would need to start reloading for that, and get a new can, which I’m not completely opposed to, but, if I’m buying a new can, I already reload .44 mag and have a bunch of components, so maby .44 mag/special subs suppressed? It looks like I need atleast 2 barrels already and I don’t even have one of these things haha.
 
38SPC doesn't have the volume concerns 300BO has. You can use extremely fast powders with heavies that would probably blow up a revolver. E3 and TG both sound great with 158gr. 357 bullets are dirt cheap compared to sub sonic 300BO specific bullets.
 
.30 Reece. Want one very badly to play around with but have not gone down the rabbit hole. Check it out if you want something like a .300 blk but with a nice rim for the break action stuff

.357 with heavy cast does very very well and it's nice and simple. NOE makes some excellent heavy molds that with the proper twisted barrel really make the .357 mag or max into something new to play with.

I suppose they are both at a psi disadvantage to the 300 blk. Maybe a nice sharp shouldered .300 blk would be worth a look too.
 
So I need iron sights for the one shoot I go to often, and I already reload .223. Also, I will have a 300blk upper once it’s released from jail ( pinned and welded can). My current can is a tbac ultra 7 in .30 cal. So to do .38 I would need to start reloading for that, and get a new can, which I’m not completely opposed to, but, if I’m buying a new can, I already reload .44 mag and have a bunch of components, so maby .44 mag/special subs suppressed? It looks like I need atleast 2 barrels already and I don’t even have one of these things haha.

44 Spl suppressed can certainly be an interesting option. One thing to know though - generally speaking the bigger bores are a bit louder, both sound of the suppressed shot and sound of the bullet in flight, as well as much louder sound of impact which can actually be pretty loud in some circumstances. While the difference doesn't seem to be significant to my ears between 30 and 35 cals, perhaps because a small volume 38 Spl or 9mm does the job with a lot less powder than 300 Blk, I can definitely tell the difference with 44 and 45 cal stuff, enough to the point that if I want something with the ideal blend of terminal effect and quietness I prefer a 35 cal with some sort of lead hollow point designed for low velocity expansion.

Sometimes people look at the low velocity numbers of cartidges like 44 Spl and 45 Auto and expect that will naturally make them quiet, but avoiding supersonic crack is only one part of the sound signature and the bigger stuff just makes more noise at the suppressor and downrange. Bullet weight plays a big role in the sound down range too, which is one reason I like the 35 caliber stuff to suppress; I can use a little 90gr solid for very quiet small game loads that hardly make any noise, or go all the way up to 250-300gr heavies depending on the twist rate for use on larger game. I fabricated a 255gr hollow point mold that works in a bunch of different 35 cals (too big for the 9mm, but works in 38/357 up through the bigger 35 cal rifles) and has been very successful on chunky southern whitetail, but for quieter plinking I generally stick with something a bit lighter weight. As Cascade Hemi mentioned above the 38 Spl bullets can be had dirt cheap if you don't cast your own, so that's an advantage too.

But your use case may be very different than mine; I rarely shoot at any sort of public range or organized shoots, mostly shoot out in the woods or hunt so the difference in sound levels can be much more significant than shooting with a bunch of other people and gunshots around. Of course if one wants to take the sound level part of this to the extreme while sacrificing terminal effect, there's bolt action or single shot 22 LR options that can be incredibly quiet. Or go the other way with the big bores and sacrifice sound in favor of terminal effect, which is where a 44 Spl can shine if you're taking bigger game with it - there's no wrong answers, just a sliding scale to look at and determine what fits best for your application. And of course there is a right answer - get one of each, and a whole bunch of suppressors to match, then circle back and get more of each. :)
 
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.357 with heavy cast does very very well and it's nice and simple. NOE makes some excellent heavy molds that with the proper twisted barrel really make the .357 mag or max into something new to play with.

I suppose they are both at a psi disadvantage to the 300 blk. Maybe a nice sharp shouldered .300 blk would be worth a look too.

Something I discovered a while ago when loading suppressed subsonic loads for a 357 Marlin lever gun was the difference between 38 Spl and 357 Mag for holding long heavy bullets. The 38 Spl case is weaker of course, but has a much longer straight wall section for the bullet base before getting into the internal case taper. The 357 Mag cases on the other hand have the internal taper starting a lot closer to the case mouth, so I wasn't able to load very heavy (relatively speaking) bullets before bulging cases from jamming the bullet base into that taper. I forget exactly because it's been a while, but IIRC I ran out of room around 180 or maybe 200gr with 357 cases when limited to the max OAL for the Marlin, but using 38 Spl brass for the same gun allowed me to use a 270gr solid and my 255gr HP and still had the strength to push them around 950-1000 fps without damaging brass.

It doesn't apply quite as much in single shots but you can still end up limited by the throat with 357 brass. Just food for thought that might be helpful to someone.
 
I missed this thread the first time. I like this.

I missed it too. Years ago a customer of mine was retiring and gave me her father's reloading gear from the 50's/60's. In it was a couple of hundred pieces of 38SPC brass. The brass turned into the TC project in the picture I posted. I finished the TC project a few years ago, last year it turned into a FreeBR (FU ATF!). This thread motivated me to swap the brace for a stock that will be here in a week or two.
 
44 Spl suppressed can certainly be an interesting option. One thing to know though - generally speaking the bigger bores are a bit louder, both sound of the suppressed shot and sound of the bullet in flight, as well as much louder sound of impact which can actually be pretty loud in some circumstances. While the difference doesn't seem to be significant to my ears between 30 and 35 cals, perhaps because a small volume 38 Spl or 9mm does the job with a lot less powder than 300 Blk, I can definitely tell the difference with 44 and 45 cal stuff, enough to the point that if I want something with the ideal blend of terminal effect and quietness I prefer a 35 cal with some sort of lead hollow point designed for low velocity expansion.

Sometimes people look at the low velocity numbers of cartidges like 44 Spl and 45 Auto and expect that will naturally make them quiet, but avoiding supersonic crack is only one part of the sound signature and the bigger stuff just makes more noise at the suppressor and downrange. Bullet weight plays a big role in the sound down range too, which is one reason I like the 35 caliber stuff to suppress; I can use a little 90gr solid for very quiet small game loads that hardly make any noise, or go all the way up to 250-300gr heavies depending on the twist rate for use on larger game. I fabricated a 255gr hollow point mold that works in a bunch of different 35 cals (too big for the 9mm, but works in 38/357 up through the bigger 35 cal rifles) and has been very successful on chunky southern whitetail, but for quieter plinking I generally stick with something a bit lighter weight. As Cascade Hemi mentioned above the 38 Spl bullets can be had dirt cheap if you don't cast your own, so that's an advantage too.

But your use case may be very different than mine; I rarely shoot at any sort of public range or organized shoots, mostly shoot out in the woods or hunt so the difference in sound levels can be much more significant than shooting with a bunch of other people and gunshots around. Of course if one wants to take the sound level part of this to the extreme while sacrificing terminal effect, there's bolt action or single shot 22 LR options that can be incredibly quiet. Or go the other way with the big bores and sacrifice sound in favor of terminal effect, which is where a 44 Spl can shine if you're taking bigger game with it - there's no wrong answers, just a sliding scale to look at and determine what fits best for your application. And of course there is a right answer - get one of each, and a whole bunch of suppressors to match, then circle back and get more of each. :)
Awesome write up, thanks!
 
Even pet owners with cats and dogs they love have to deal with feral cats and dogs. I'm afraid it's just part of living in the country. Those city people seem to think Fido & Mittens will somehow be just fine dropped off on a dead end county road.
 
Even pet owners with cats and dogs they love have to deal with feral cats and dogs. I'm afraid it's just part of living in the country. Those city people seem to think Fido & Mittens will somehow be just fine dropped off on a dead end county road.
Oh, I’ll shoot every dog in sight. Dogs are the Devil’s favorite.

God loves cats best.
 
Oh, I’ll shoot every dog in sight. Dogs are the Devil’s favorite.

God loves cats best.

There's one that's been coming around. I thought I got him with my .22 pistol off hand from 30 or 40 yards. Turns out I just got him in the leg and he's back with a limp. When I get him the rest of the way I'll take a picture. The last cat I got was five feet away, .22 through his little face shut the lights off instantly.

I leave them alone when they stay out in the pastures. If they come up to the house they get the heater. The ferals attack my shop cat, she has a job to do with mice and voles and I can't have her going down from a fight.
 
4 Lathes actually... Little toy atlas for threading... South bend for roughing. Monarch for the good stuff. And a 18" swing, 8' gap bed LeBlonde for doing aircraft carrier propellor shafts.

Refer to them as: "The Toy, the one that will hurt you, the one that will maim you... and the one that will kill you." I think it fits.

The Atlas is a great threading piece!

Cheers,

Sirhr
You have your monikers wrong...
The Toy (that would probably still de-glove you), the one that will kill you!, the other one that will kill you!, and the other other one that will kill you!
I have this sticker on every machine in our shop...
Fo Sho.jpg

P.S. Machinist for 30 years.
P.P.S I have been caught by a lathe. The guy next to me said I yelled "OH FUCK!!! ITS GOT ME!!!". It was just a love bite and still required many, many stictches! Chewed my hand up pretty good. Got caught between the tool post and the part trying to remove a chip that was screwing up the finish of a bore.
 
You have your monikers wrong...
The Toy (that would probably still de-glove you), the one that will kill you!, the other one that will kill you!, and the other other one that will kill you!
I have this sticker on every machine in our shop...
View attachment 8341217
P.S. Machinist for 30 years.
P.P.S I have been caught by a lathe. The guy next to me said I yelled "OH FUCK!!! ITS GOT ME!!!". It was just a love bite and still required many, many stictches! Chewed my hand up pretty good. Got caught between the tool post and the part trying to remove a chip that was screwing up the finish of a bore.

Yeah.... I've been nibbled a few times. Never bad. Yet.

This is what I printed out and put around the shop.

IMG_8933.jpeg


If OSHA doesn’t like it they can kiss my ass. Everyone reads them! They work.

Sirhr
 
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44 Spl suppressed can certainly be an interesting option. One thing to know though - generally speaking the bigger bores are a bit louder, both sound of the suppressed shot and sound of the bullet in flight, as well as much louder sound of impact which can actually be pretty loud in some circumstances. While the difference doesn't seem to be significant to my ears between 30 and 35 cals, perhaps because a small volume 38 Spl or 9mm does the job with a lot less powder than 300 Blk, I can definitely tell the difference with 44 and 45 cal stuff, enough to the point that if I want something with the ideal blend of terminal effect and quietness I prefer a 35 cal with some sort of lead hollow point designed for low velocity expansion.

Sometimes people look at the low velocity numbers of cartidges like 44 Spl and 45 Auto and expect that will naturally make them quiet, but avoiding supersonic crack is only one part of the sound signature and the bigger stuff just makes more noise at the suppressor and downrange. Bullet weight plays a big role in the sound down range too, which is one reason I like the 35 caliber stuff to suppress; I can use a little 90gr solid for very quiet small game loads that hardly make any noise, or go all the way up to 250-300gr heavies depending on the twist rate for use on larger game. I fabricated a 255gr hollow point mold that works in a bunch of different 35 cals (too big for the 9mm, but works in 38/357 up through the bigger 35 cal rifles) and has been very successful on chunky southern whitetail, but for quieter plinking I generally stick with something a bit lighter weight. As Cascade Hemi mentioned above the 38 Spl bullets can be had dirt cheap if you don't cast your own, so that's an advantage too.

But your use case may be very different than mine; I rarely shoot at any sort of public range or organized shoots, mostly shoot out in the woods or hunt so the difference in sound levels can be much more significant than shooting with a bunch of other people and gunshots around. Of course if one wants to take the sound level part of this to the extreme while sacrificing terminal effect, there's bolt action or single shot 22 LR options that can be incredibly quiet. Or go the other way with the big bores and sacrifice sound in favor of terminal effect, which is where a 44 Spl can shine if you're taking bigger game with it - there's no wrong answers, just a sliding scale to look at and determine what fits best for your application. And of course there is a right answer - get one of each, and a whole bunch of suppressors to match, then circle back and get more of each. :)
Great info here. I've been shooting suppressed for a little while (22, 30 and 45 cans) but usually at ranges where there are others around and hard to really get a better feel for what's "quiet" vs "quieter". :) For sure the 22lr is giggle quiet and that's what I play with a lot when i'm outside plinking.

Now I'm starting down the 300 blackout road, just built my first upper (Mos-tech 7.5" 1:5) and developing loads. I've got a good NOE mold to try at some point with powder coat is the plan for the plinking loads.

I've wanted to do something in 44mag/special for a while, either find someone to thread a 96/44 I have, or buy a threaded contender barrel, or had been looking at some other factory threaded lever guns. But then I saw the new Marlin/Ruger 1895 Dark and put that on order. I just ordered a bunch of brass (Starline has it available now, it's been OOS for like 3 years). I'll probably order a Dead Air Primal soon for the rifle but had always been curious about the level of quiet on the big bores. There's no action noise compared to the AR platform but wondered about throwing that big a chunk of lead downrange if it would be the same level as say a 9mm 147gr. At the end of the day it gives me excuses to get some other rifles/pistols/cans so I guess that's a good thing! :)

thanks for your info above, gives me more to think about.
 
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This was my “go to” rifle for whitetails once upon a time. Encore with 16.5” 45/70 with a 1:10 twist barrel. It would stabilize 730gr bullets. Pictured is one before it was fully seated. My actual bullet of choice was a 385gr cast deep hollow point shooting ~950fps.

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