a smith worth their salt should be able to make any action into a QC setup. but I agree, the only next step would make this an option from the factory.
- Thread starter karagias
- Start date
a smith worth their salt should be able to make any action into a QC setup. but I agree, the only next step would make this an option from the factory.
I thought I posted this early last year, but you caught me fitting another this morning.
First I give it clearance for the back of the CDG receiver. Then using a safe edge file, take a few thousands off latch catch until the bolt doesn’t drag on the feed lips.
They still run great in my AW cut & standard AICS Impacts also. Almost all my comp guns are in Foundations with Hawkins M5 DBM with their standard mag latch.
Last edited:
Agree! Love'em, they run like butter! But I'm not paying $200+ for a 12rd AW mag...
Some cat here on the hide was cutting them apart and modifying them...$$
Ah. You can do that yourself. I thought you had a line on oe ones.
If you can find them….
if I ever make it to shot show im walking straight to the AI booth, nut slapping everyone one of this posh pricks and then throwing tea bags at them.
this was literally my plan of attack.. thanks for the info! not sure why we cant get adjustable mag latches for M5 bottom metals. MDT makes one but its backorder for no acceptable reason.
are you running the mag stop in the front receiver bolt?
Yea, me too, I’m hoping someone makes a 12 rounder commercially soon.
Ok folks, time for a technical support question…
I received the bolt parts kit to replace the extractor for two of my actions. I put it in at the same time I replaced the trigger with a Huber 700 trigger group.
I am now getting light strikes.
In fact, I’m at the range right now. Wondering what the heck is going on…
No debris in the bolt, everything is clean, and it would seem that the firing pin is coming out like it should…
What causes this?
The trigger appears to work just fine and feels like butter.
I received the bolt parts kit to replace the extractor for two of my actions. I put it in at the same time I replaced the trigger with a Huber 700 trigger group.
I am now getting light strikes.
In fact, I’m at the range right now. Wondering what the heck is going on…
No debris in the bolt, everything is clean, and it would seem that the firing pin is coming out like it should…
What causes this?
The trigger appears to work just fine and feels like butter.
I would also readjust the trigger hanger first before trying anything else.
Perhaps I didn’t lock it down properly?
That wouldn’t be the first time I did something stupid…
Shouldn’t matter, but the safety doesn’t engage due to the manner and how the trigger hanger is configured… and I didn’t really give a crap because I never use a safety. (the bolt is either out of the gun or in the rear possession… and I don’t hunt with this rifle.)
That wouldn’t be the first time I did something stupid…
Shouldn’t matter, but the safety doesn’t engage due to the manner and how the trigger hanger is configured… and I didn’t really give a crap because I never use a safety. (the bolt is either out of the gun or in the rear possession… and I don’t hunt with this rifle.)
By the way, for what it’s worth, it does not appear to be moving forward… obviously it moves forward when I pull the trigger
All you need to do is trim the rear action screw, it sticks out a little far and doesn’t allow the bolt to cycle. 2 minute job on a bench grinder. And adjust the mag latch another 2 minute job. Done.
what procedure did you use to adjust the hanger? that front hanger point setscrew is an absolute bitch so it may have not actually adjusted anything and may have thought you did. those threads are cut VERY tight.
or use a washer on the action screw.
Last edited:
Yes, that’s another way to skin the cat
The machine marks comment was written earlier this morning for another post and not deleted, not what you wrote just in case anyone is wondering.
Got the rifle home… swapped out the original extractor and bolt parts… pulled the bullet from a case, and put an empty case in the barrel:
With the original extractor configuration it fires without issue…
No idea what is causing problems… but it may be assumed that the new extractor is hitting the conical breach somehow. ???
With the original extractor configuration it fires without issue…
No idea what is causing problems… but it may be assumed that the new extractor is hitting the conical breach somehow. ???
I don't think it's the extractor, but to check for rubbing put some sharpe ink on the face of the extractor and repeat. If it's rubbing the breech, you'll see some ink removed.
This right here.
I prefer the washer method. I have a small stash of pocket lock washers that work great for this.
Yep check right here for the new extractor rubbing.
My original just touches & I haven't put the replacement in.
Read on here somewhere about the new replacement hitting the cone breach that was set up for the original extractor.
The ARC firing pins fit tight, so a little misalignment may well cause the pin to bind.
question:Is it possible to put the new pin for the pin/spring/extractor retrofit in backwards?
I note one side is beveled and the other is flat….
I note one side is beveled and the other is flat….
That was also covered here earlier, but I can’t remember which ended up being correct.
Yeah, I looked at it, but it looks like the painting he use is may be beveled on each end… and that’s why I asked the question.
My recollection is that the flat side faces the spring and the tapered end goes toward the extractor.
All - anybody recollect why he changed the ejector?
Also, has there been any change to his barrel tenon specs for this extractor change or it’s the same???
Also, also (lol), has anybody taken a file to lightly take off that sharp corner or would that be very unadvisable???
I have a CDG SA sitting in a box and it has the new extractor. Going to send a blank out for chambering soon and wondering if this is a wide spread issue.
Also, please note that @GBMaryland has been shooting this gun for a good while without problem until the extractor change. This sort of precludes some of the suggested problem sources.
Cheers.
Just to stir the pot Reddit lore says these things had issues at Mammoth, multiple shooters’ CDGs went down.
I haven’t changed triggers recently but did replace the extractor. If I can get out to the range I’ll check my main CDG.
I haven’t changed triggers recently but did replace the extractor. If I can get out to the range I’ll check my main CDG.
So I do have a little bit of rubbing going on according to my pictures…
The pictures don’t do it justice because it’s a very little bit when you’re looking at it with your eyeball… But the camera seems to make it look much larger than it is.
For what it’s worth: PVA finished the barrel for me, and it’s one of their Osprey barrels.
Those pics of the old extractor...so its black...or is it the new one which is silver??? Hard to tell from the pics.
And, I'm not sure what it hitting a bit on would do to firing pin freedom of travel or headspace. Did you have resistance when closing the bolt with the new part? I ask because the in battery should be fully in battery...no?
If thats the only place its rubbing, 5 seconds to break the edge on the extractor with a file.
Dimensionally , the extractor should be the same with the exception being the notch for the dowel pin. And, as noted earlier in this thread, I think the extractor popped out with some people running magnum calibers.
I posted photos of the extractors earlier in this thread.
Dimensionally , the extractor should be the same with the exception being the notch for the dowel pin. And, as noted earlier in this thread, I think the extractor popped out with some people running magnum calibers.
I posted photos of the extractors earlier in this thread.
Mine is also a PVA Osprey.
From your Picture I now suspect the new extractor was forcing the case head over & up off the bolt face.
Edit: I see brass @ that location in your second pic.
Interestingly, that bolt says 473B on it, and my other one is a 473.
There is a slight difference with how that piece of steel was machined between the two.
I have figured out what the problem is and the problem is is that one of the two extractor they sent me says 378 on it:
It was killing me, man…. “It just doesn’t make any sense.”
For what it’s worth, that Huber trigger is butter!
For what it’s worth, that Huber trigger is butter!
Smoother than the Timney 700 Light 2 stage?
Per e mail from ARC regarding the orientation of the pin behind the extractor. The tapered end of the pin should face the spring. As mentioned in post 6366.
It’s a minor difference IMO, mostly in how the trigger breaks.
ooops, wrong again. Its my super power.
All - here it is and I just got it backwards...it makes sense that tapered end would go into the spring.
Coup De Grâce, New Action from American Rifle Company, $899 WOW!
No thanks...it's ugly, and I wouldnt own a rifle with that name etched on the reciever. Kinda punked out, freaky ugly clunky chunk of metal...with a screwed up name, screaming, "trying too hard to be cool"...but in actuallity embarrassing to own. You lost me with the name on tbe side of the...
www.snipershide.com if he can still lock the bolt and that extractor isn't stopping it then id be concerned on what headspace he's got and how much conical breach space he's got. from the other posts ive seen rubbing marks at least. I haven't swapped mine out yet.. havnt gotten the time to cut the barrels yet.
let me rephrase.- if the update extractor is pushing his bolt back enough to cause light striker hits. and fires fine with the OE extractor, I would be concerned on the breach geometry.
Last edited:
Oh.
