- Thread starter karagias
- Start date
But @kcsmith says it’s not an extractor issue, so better keep looking.
I'd like to see the difference between the two (standard vs magnum) extractors. I suspect the only difference is the radius, it shouldn't create a different gap between the extractor and the breech. To your point though, I don't think the extractor could cause a light primer strike because the rearward limit of the bolt is determined by the lug abutments. The bolt couldn't be pushed further back by contact between the extractor and the breech.
I don't think ARC has explained the reason behind the new extractors, which they should. I have to believe if the new design changed the clearance between the extractor and breech, they would have said so.
They did explain why in the post above.
Did we have a tally on who’s barrels were rubbing? Is it all one manufacturer or multiple ones?
I’m running savage prefits with magnum cases so I have no cone and have had no issues.
I’d have to find it, but don’t recall how detailed the discussion was beyond that.
I ask because, a lot of things can happen that have nothing to do with the receiver. But, that won't stop someone from saying that's the reason.
Kinda like all the ZCO scopes that “went down” at last year’s NF ELR Challenge? Certainly wasn’t the shooters.
I understand it shouldn't be causing the issue but the only change in dudes rifle was those two things and the two different results are non firing weapon with light primer strikes, and a firing weapon. its not anecdotal
After getting my LA and playing with it, I decided to to get a SA for a 6.5PRC instead of the Origin I originally ordered. I am having MHSA do the barreled action with the WTO Switchlug. I'm also going get a 243WSSM barrel since I have a boatload of brass for it.
Out of the two he received, one that they sent was the wrong extractor....it was for a .223 bolt face. They are marked on the inside flat of the extractor. Both extractors he received were supposed to be the same .473. Not one to be .378
That's the root cause of his issue.
Serious question, I don't know any better: where and how was the change in extractor communicated? In this thread? When? Thanks!
Post #6,224 on page 125
Thanks a lot!
Quick question for you guys. Did anybody chamber their LA CDG in .338 LM and if so, how has it worked out for you?
I’m considering having a .338 LM Improved barrel spun up for some boom boom fun at distance.
I’m considering having a .338 LM Improved barrel spun up for some boom boom fun at distance.
My fellow gangsters,
I felt that a beautiful action like the CDG needed nothing but the best components, so I took a savage take-off barrel and a used Foudation inletted for the wrong action and put them together. I wanted to run AW mags because I heard they were major-cool.
So first off, if you want to stick a CDG into an Impact 737 inlet, it looks like all that is needed is a little material removal on the sides of the recoil lug against the action due to the taper of the lug's sides on the CDG, and a hair of material removal just under the bolt release.
Being that this is a high-class installation, I cut this material out by hand using a deburring knife.
Next up, in order to feed the 6 Creedmoor rounds I will use out of an AW mag, it definitely needs a conical breech face. Maybe 1-in-5 rounds would feed without the coned breech. So, what do you do if you have a flat-faced barrel like this masterpiece of a savage takeoff? The easy solution is to take some Loctite 648 and glue a 7/16" Grade 8 washer to the face of the barrel, using a headspace gauge or cartridge to ensure the washer is centered on the barrel by pulling the gauge/cartridge out halfway and rotating it around the bore to nudge the washer into place. Then, using your precision calibrated eyeballs and a die grinder, grind a 30-degree cone into the washer until you touch the factory chamfer on the barrel. A little hand finishing with scotchbrite, and voila!
All dimensions were checked against ARC's breech drawing. You 100% need to assembly check this, but it works. You need to be positive the bolt face and extractor are not what is bottoming out against the washer when setting headspace. I had to do a few fit checks and take more material off, confirming that the barrel would screw in more with no headspace gauge than it would when the headspace gauge was installed.
The Dollar Store Coned Breech™ is born.
I felt that a beautiful action like the CDG needed nothing but the best components, so I took a savage take-off barrel and a used Foudation inletted for the wrong action and put them together. I wanted to run AW mags because I heard they were major-cool.
So first off, if you want to stick a CDG into an Impact 737 inlet, it looks like all that is needed is a little material removal on the sides of the recoil lug against the action due to the taper of the lug's sides on the CDG, and a hair of material removal just under the bolt release.
Being that this is a high-class installation, I cut this material out by hand using a deburring knife.
Next up, in order to feed the 6 Creedmoor rounds I will use out of an AW mag, it definitely needs a conical breech face. Maybe 1-in-5 rounds would feed without the coned breech. So, what do you do if you have a flat-faced barrel like this masterpiece of a savage takeoff? The easy solution is to take some Loctite 648 and glue a 7/16" Grade 8 washer to the face of the barrel, using a headspace gauge or cartridge to ensure the washer is centered on the barrel by pulling the gauge/cartridge out halfway and rotating it around the bore to nudge the washer into place. Then, using your precision calibrated eyeballs and a die grinder, grind a 30-degree cone into the washer until you touch the factory chamfer on the barrel. A little hand finishing with scotchbrite, and voila!
All dimensions were checked against ARC's breech drawing. You 100% need to assembly check this, but it works. You need to be positive the bolt face and extractor are not what is bottoming out against the washer when setting headspace. I had to do a few fit checks and take more material off, confirming that the barrel would screw in more with no headspace gauge than it would when the headspace gauge was installed.
The Dollar Store Coned Breech™ is born.
I had a similar reaction, but cannot fault the result, being to help feeding.
A setup like that deserves some Snipers Hide patented 70kPSI hand loads.
If it works, more power to you 
Just curious,...How many times during a year, do you use the phrase "hold my beer"?
If it makes you feel any better, I have a CNC mill but I didn't feel like machining a fixture and programming the profile with a ball mill.
And yet some say American craftsmanship and ingenuity are dead…
For real though, the coned breech is essentially just an additional geometry that’s added to a flat barrel that provides a pretty bluntly angled feed ramp. The cone portion is about .0625” thick per ARC’s dimensions if I remember right. There are two risks I can see in this approach:
1. You can gouge the chamber if you aren’t careful with the grinder
2. You can set a false, excessive headspace if your bolt or extractor hits the cone portion before the bolt face hits the headspace gauge. I had to do a few iterations and remove material several times before I got to the point of clearing when I finally met the factory chamber chamfer with the cone angle.
Otherwise it’s just simple geometry and I would have no qualms about doing this again with a future barrel. I’ll test is out shortly and see how it does but for now it feeds 100%.
1. You can gouge the chamber if you aren’t careful with the grinder
2. You can set a false, excessive headspace if your bolt or extractor hits the cone portion before the bolt face hits the headspace gauge. I had to do a few iterations and remove material several times before I got to the point of clearing when I finally met the factory chamber chamfer with the cone angle.
Otherwise it’s just simple geometry and I would have no qualms about doing this again with a future barrel. I’ll test is out shortly and see how it does but for now it feeds 100%.
Did you consider chambering the barrel deeper to allow the coned breach to be added? I have a 6.5 barrel that I want to play with at a later date.
I think homie used a factory Savage take-off barrel.
Yes. But I think you could chamber it deeper, set it back? and then add the coned breach while still having enough threads to lock it down with the barrel nut. Cost would be a consideration but may not be the only concern he had about doing that. Not sure I would want to sink money into a factory barrel, in fact I won't. But I do have a lightly shot Kreiger that I might.
Yeah but that would require putting it on a lathe to machine the breech and having the correct reamer. That’s an expensive option and it would need to go to a gunsmith and probably take months to get back. This was the at-home solution that gets the job done. There are a lot of takeoff barrels out there that can function this way. If I remember the specs correctly, the CDG has the same tenon spec as a TL3, and with a .050” spacer could use Origin prefits too. They’d need a coned breech if you wanted to run AW mags so here’s a way to do that.
Did/Has ARC redesigned the hanger yet for clearance issues for certain triggers (I think read a comment or rumor about this thousands of comments ago)? I called them and emailed them during SHOT and no response yet. Maybe smoke signals next?
They've clearanced if for BnA triggers yes. Unsure of fitment with a geissle or timney tho.
@GBMaryland runs some Timneys with a CDG and it fit and functioned fine without modification.
That is correct for for some Timney's (HIT and Calvin Elites I think). My Timney 2 stage required modification of the hanger. I have a 2nd CDG on order. It's minor grinding, but was just curious.
Ah, but don’t the new hangers have a cut out there?
I know @GBMaryland installed a Timney 700 Light 2 stage and it fit without mods.
This is the answer I am trying to find for my 2nd CDG that I ordered last month.
The image that I used above is from my 1st CDG that I ordered in April 2023 and received Nov 2023. I removed material from that hanger. Not a big deal if I do it again.
Pic of a newer one. They added some clearance for safety lever. Tall rear hanger screw will still hit a Huber.
That’s why there are button head machine screws. It’s what I used on my Huber.
I
had to modify the hanger. With the exception of the Trigger Tech, they ALL seem to require modifications.
Well, I’m wrong again! Its my super power. lol.
Last edited:
I didn’t have any trouble with my Huber, though it does not have a safety. Gen 2 trigger hanger.
Alright here’s my final thoughts and review of this beast! I think this is the best action for the money and even for more, but it has had some quirks to watch out for!
Can’t wait for my lightweight to get here for a NRL build.
ARC Coup de Grace: The Good, The Bad, The Almost Ugly
Can’t wait for my lightweight to get here for a NRL build.
ARC Coup de Grace: The Good, The Bad, The Almost Ugly
In my case there’s a wall on the other end that prevents me from sticking the breach end in first.
It reminds them of the sex dream they had.
