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$2,000 thermal. What to get?

SanPatHogger

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Mar 1, 2020
954
816
I am about to order an AGM TS35-384. I've been eyeing it up for months, just got a bonus that will cover it and a 308 rifle kit to put it on.
In the last couple weeks it has ben discontinued on their website. There are a couple sites that still have them in stock. The new updated version is $700 more and eats my whole budget. Yea it has better batteries and records audio, but I don't need the audio and I already have batteries and can get rechargeables.
So my question is, before I click to get it, is there anything else that I should look at in the same price bracket?
Thanks
 
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I have the same thermal and it’s been fantastic. Does eat batteries but with a good backup you’re good for several hours of run time. I’ve used the video record feature a few times. The missing audio didn’t bother me a bit.
 
I am about to order an AGM TS35-384. I've been eyeing it up for months, just got a bonus that will cover it and a 308 rifle kit to put it on.
In the last couple weeks it has ben discontinued on their website. There are a couple sites that still have them in stock. The new updated version is $700 more and eats my whole budget. Yea it has better batteries and records audio, but I don't need the audio and I already have batteries and can get rechargeables.
So my question is, before I click to get it, is there anything else that I should look at in the same price bracket?
Thanks
That’s a good unit. You’ll be happy with the performance per dollar on that unit. I’m a big fan of my 3 (about to be 4) AGM units. 👍🏼

Get you some Nitecore 16340 rechargeable 950 mAh batteries, and run your unit on 3.7v, and you’ll get optimal performance and better battery life.

Here’s what I run in mine…


Do NOT get the batteries with the built-in charging port. They are too tall, and won’t fit. I bought 4 of them by mistake and learned that lesson the expensive way. Luckily, I can use them in some flashlights and stuff.
 
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I am about to order an AGM TS35-384. I've been eyeing it up for months, just got a bonus that will cover it and a 308 rifle kit to put it on.
In the last couple weeks it has ben discontinued on their website. There are a couple sites that still have them in stock. The new updated version is $700 more and eats my whole budget. Yea it has better batteries and records audio, but I don't need the audio and I already have batteries and can get rechargeables.
So my question is, before I click to get it, is there anything else that I should look at in the same price bracket?
Thanks
I have that unit and it works very well
 
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The 700.00 would be money well spent. The new V2 has a sub 20 MK sensor that will work in humidity much better. In the desert either one would be good.
 
Any idea when yall will get the rattler v2 clip ons?
If you've never used a clip-on... I'd get the scope version. I'm in the process of sending back a Neith LRF clip-on right now to swap to a scope version or put it towards a new Rattler V2 50-640 thermal scope. The clip-on just doesn't jeehaw with me...Not my cup of tea.
 
I am about to order an AGM TS35-384. I've been eyeing it up for months, just got a bonus that will cover it and a 308 rifle kit to put it on.
In the last couple weeks it has ben discontinued on their website. There are a couple sites that still have them in stock. The new updated version is $700 more and eats my whole budget. Yea it has better batteries and records audio, but I don't need the audio and I already have batteries and can get rechargeables.
So my question is, before I click to get it, is there anything else that I should look at in the same price bracket?
Thanks
Hey OP, now that the V2 has come out, I'm seeing A LOT of AGM V1 Rattler 35-640's for like $2995 range.

That said, go to the link below, add it to cart... At that price, you can't afford to NOT go 640... If you can afford to bump the budget a little, that's what I'd do.

Screenshot 2024-02-17 at 9.44.08 PM.png

 
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I second the don't waste your money on Chinese thermals. A 384 px chinese thermal is a liability. You'll shoot someone's dog. You can't PID shit past 100 yards. And their performance in poor conditions is abysmal. Not trying to be a dick, trying to save you $$. Save up and buy something better. I see used Pulsar XG for less than $4k on occasion. The difference between it and a AGM(GuideIR) is huge.
 
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I second the don't waste your money on Chinese thermals. A 384 px chinese thermal is a liability. You'll shoot someone's dog. You can't PID shit past 100 yards. And their performance in poor conditions is abysmal. Not trying to be a dick, trying to save you $$. Save up and buy something better. I see used Pulsar XG for less than $4k on occasion. The difference between it and a AGM(GuideIR) is huge.
This is the dumbest post I've seen today. Tell me you've never looked through an AGM 640 without telling me you've never looked through one...

Let's see your Pulsar at 700 yards... This house is at 650-700 yards away, and the pier to left side is about 300 yards, and you can clearly tell it's a pontoon boat with an outboard motor. So, I'm pretty sure I could tell the difference between a coyote and someone's dog at sub-400 yards...

700 Yards.JPG
 
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Hey OP, now that the V2 has come out, I'm seeing A LOT of AGM V1 Rattler 35-640's for like $2995 range.

That said, go to the link below, add it to cart... At that price, you can't afford to NOT go 640... If you can afford to bump the budget a little, that's what I'd do.

View attachment 8351672

I already ordered the 384. It should be here any day. But that is a great price on the 640.
I have looked through a Super Yoter 640 and it was really nice.
Buddy of mine got the TM-160 and it works great. You can see way further than they advertise. Windmills at a couple thousand yards are clear. We've seen deer past 600. At that distance they are just hot animals, but closer you can tell the difference and ID them.
I wont be shooting animals past a few hundred yards. I might stretch it out to 500 or so shooting targets, just to see what is possible.
 
I already ordered the 384. It should be here any day. But that is a great price on the 640.
I have looked through a Super Yoter 640 and it was really nice.
Buddy of mine got the TM-160 and it works great. You can see way further than they advertise. Windmills at a couple thousand yards are clear. We've seen deer past 600. At that distance they are just hot animals, but closer you can tell the difference and ID them.
I wont be shooting animals past a few hundred yards. I might stretch it out to 500 or so shooting targets, just to see what is possible.
Don’t open it, send it back, grab the 640… Hell, at that price I’m considering getting one for another rifle. 😂👍🏼
 
The 700.00 would be money well spent. The new V2 has a sub 20 MK sensor that will work in humidity much better. In the desert either one would be good.
It is always humid here. I have read the basics about how a thermal works, but no idea what that 20 MK sensor even means. This will be my first thermal. But probably not my last.
 
Don’t open it, send it back, grab the 640… Hell, at that price I’m considering getting one for another rifle. 😂👍🏼
An AR10 rifle kit to put it on, a pile of ammo and a few rechargeable batteries.
 
What are you guys using for thermal targets?
I have been thinking about getting the round ice cube trays and putting the ice balls on a golf tee in front of a paper target.
Some of the moulds will make 8 ice balls, so I can have a cold whiskey to celebrate afterwards.

1708260950837.png
 
This is the dumbest post I've seen today. Tell me you've never looked through an AGM 640 without telling me you've never looked through one...

Let's see your Pulsar at 700 yards... This house is at 650-700 yards away, and the pier to left side is about 300 yards, and you can clearly tell it's a pontoon boat with an outboard motor. So, I'm pretty sure I could tell the difference between a coyote and someone's dog at sub-400 yards...

View attachment 8351695
I was specifically talking about 384 sensors, if you read my post.
But I'm still not impressed by that image for a 640. Any BAE 640 sensor is going to blow that away.
 
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You can pick up coyotes at 500 with relative ease with the 384. I’ve done it. You won’t regret your purchase
 
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What are you guys using for thermal targets?
I have been thinking about getting the round ice cube trays and putting the ice balls on a golf tee in front of a paper target.
Some of the moulds will make 8 ice balls, so I can have a cold whiskey to celebrate afterwards.

View attachment 8351781
Handwarmers work great for zeroing. Staple them to a backer of cardboard
 
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If you've never used a clip-on... I'd get the scope version. I'm in the process of sending back a Neith LRF clip-on right now to swap to a scope version or put it towards a new Rattler V2 50-640 thermal scope. The clip-on just doesn't jeehaw with me...Not my cup of tea.
I’ve only used analog Nv clip ons. I don’t really have a desire to set up another rifle or neuter an existing one. Are they that less efficient than a dedicated thermal scope? Was hoping to hop either a rh25 or the rattler v2 640 clip on between a mk12 and a m4a1
 
HVAC tape - it's cheap and won't produce the "thermal bloom" you'll get with handwarmers on a target. Tilt the target back about 15 degrees and you'll see very well with your thermal to zero.
 
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can the Rattler be used as a day scope?
Thermal scopes can be used day or night... It picks up heat signatures and overlays them on each other to reproduce an image, it's not like night vision where it utilizes IR light to work.
 
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I’ve only used analog Nv clip ons. I don’t really have a desire to set up another rifle or neuter an existing one. Are they that less efficient than a dedicated thermal scope? Was hoping to hop either a rh25 or the rattler v2 640 clip on between a mk12 and a m4a1
Unless you have a day scope with a base magnification of 1x, then you won't be happy with a clip-on, IMO. I tested it on the smallest 50mm scope I have, which was 3.5x on the bottom end, and it was quite depressing, because I couldn't see the whole display screen. It seemed extremely constricted in the FOV. The image was fine, but you couldn't see any onboard diagnostics on the screen, so you have no idea when your battery was going to shit out, you couldn't see time, date, when you hit the record button, and IF it's actually recording, unless you hit it again, and it says, "Recording Successful", then you knew it was working. Otherwise, you had no clue. I'm just not happy with it. And to be able to use it on my LPVO's, I'd need to buy more $250 adapters to be able to make it fit on them.

So, IMO, YES, it is WAY less efficient than a dedicated thermal scope like the Rattler V2 35-640 or 50-640. You might like a clip-on...But it's just not for me.
 
I was specifically talking about 384 sensors, if you read my post.
But I'm still not impressed by that image for a 640. Any BAE 640 sensor is going to blow that away.
That's funny you say that... Because I spent quite a few hours looking through a BAE-cored Trijicon IR-Hunter 60mm MK2 (640), and the image was close, if not slightly LESS defined than my AGM Rattler 50-640... The guy who owns the range has one, and we spent plenty of time messing around with it when he first got it. I'm not saying mine is better because it's what I own, I bought what I bought, and he bought what he bought. I'm stating that because multiples of us have compared other units to his, and in the end, his $10,000 unit wasn't all that impressive compared to more modern-designed units costing half as much. I don't make the rules, it just is what it is.
 
Thermal scopes can be used day or night... It picks up heat signatures and overlays them on each other to reproduce an image, it's not like night vision where it utilizes IR light to work.
I reckon I was wondering if daytime you could use it like a regular scope or will you get only the thermal image? IE; Can you turn off the thermal overlay and have an optical scope only?
 
I reckon I was wondering if daytime you could use it like a regular scope or will you get only the thermal image? IE; Can you turn off the thermal overlay and have an optical scope only?
Oh, no... Thermals don't work that way. Most NV doesn't work that way, either. The AGM Neith is a digital Day/Night scope. It does both. It has daytime and nighttime modes. And it's very clear both day and night.

The Sightmark Wraith 4K Mini 2-16x32 is also a digital day/night scope, and it's a really nice unit. Normally $799 (same as Neith), but I picked up one on huge sale at PSA for $450 a while back, and it's damn-impressive for the sale price. Apparently they're still on sale...


The only issue I have had with the Sightmark was the video was in a weird format, and I use a Mac, and it wouldn't open it, so I had to buy a $20 app (one time purchase, not per month) that allows me to convert the files over to .MP4 files, and so far it's working great. The video footage is stellar, even at max digital magnification.
 
It is always humid here. I have read the basics about how a thermal works, but no idea what that 20 MK sensor even means. This will be my first thermal. But probably not my last.
The MK mili kelvin rating is how sensitive the radiation sensor is. The earlier AGM units use a 35 MK sensor, the new V2 is sub 20. When the humidity, snow or rain starts the higher MK rated scopes don't see through the humidity as good. You can still see heat signatures like animals but you can't see them as far away or as clear and you lose most of the back ground. I've bought 2 Pulsars, 40 MK in the last 8 years which was before anybody came out with the improved sensors and they suck when I like to hunt in the snow. Pulsar came out with what they call the pro sensor at 25 MK and bought one in October. It's a big improvement over the 40 since I hunt 4 to 6 nights a week. Buy once cry once until a better one comes out. lol
 
The MK mili kelvin rating is how sensitive the radiation sensor is. The earlier AGM units use a 35 MK sensor, the new V2 is sub 20. When the humidity, snow or rain starts the higher MK rated scopes don't see through the humidity as good. You can still see heat signatures like animals but you can't see them as far away or as clear and you lose most of the back ground. I've bought 2 Pulsars, 40 MK in the last 8 years which was before anybody came out with the improved sensors and they suck when I like to hunt in the snow. Pulsar came out with what they call the pro sensor at 25 MK and bought one in October. It's a big improvement over the 40 since I hunt 4 to 6 nights a week. Buy once cry once until a better one comes out. lol
My AGM Rattler V1 50-640 is a 12MK (same as V2).
 
That’s a good unit. You’ll be happy with the performance per dollar on that unit. I’m a big fan of my 3 (about to be 4) AGM units. 👍🏼

Get you some Nitecore 16340 rechargeable 950 mAh batteries, and run your unit on 3.7v, and you’ll get optimal performance and better battery life.

Here’s what I run in mine…


Do NOT get the batteries with the built-in charging port. They are too tall, and won’t fit. I bought 4 of them by mistake and learned that lesson the expensive way. Luckily, I can use them in some flashlights and stuff.
I have 14 streamlight batteries and 4 amazon basic batteries. I'll get a few of the rechargable ones.
But it also says it can use an external power pack. What about one of these? 26,800mah is close to 20+ regular batteries. I could strap it on the in front of the thermal on top of the hand guard. Also, I do realize that I would not want to get dirt or water into the charging port.

Well damn. Link is not working.
Google "USB C power pack" It's the first thing that pops up from amazon.



Editing this for like the 5th time now.
AGM actually has their own external power pack that is 10,000mah and its $45. I'll probably get that too. That's a whole week of charge if I go out every night.
 
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What are you guys using for thermal targets?
I have been thinking about getting the round ice cube trays and putting the ice balls on a golf tee in front of a paper target.
Some of the moulds will make 8 ice balls, so I can have a cold whiskey to celebrate afterwards.
Why not stick the golf tees into the top of the ice cube mold and let them freeze inside the ball, so they're stuck in there and won't fall off? 🤷🏼
 
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