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LMT .308 MWS

Congratulations on getting a good deal on your rifle. I cant weigh in on the recent or older production question but others here surly will provide you the answer on that.


I can tell you my experience with my LMT MWS 20" .308 and a SiCo Omega is it not good. SiCo Omega is a high back pressure can and will beat up your rifle and your brass. After 40 - 50 rounds my rifle gets so much fouling in the system I start to have reliability problems. There is a good amount of information in this thread on the topic.

You can fiddle with the gas tube, buffer size, spring ect.. to get it to a reliable or you buy a low back pressure can like a Huxwrk or Surefire. That is the route I am going. Of course cost $$$ and a bunch of time. Read this thread for more.

HTH
 
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Looks great, MARS ambi lower? a God loved pic rail and now just get a Night force or your favorite glasss, some LMT OR KAC BUIS and rock on. It will run with the can but it will be hot. If your slightly handy buy a BRT gas tube and tame that gas a little to make it run smoother With a can. Otherwise study Clint’s heavy buffers and look into those OR BOTH.

The best rifle for the dollar on planet earth.
PB
 
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Looks great, MARS ambi lower? a God loved pic rail and now just get a Night force or your favorite glasss, some LMT OR KAC BUIS and rock on. It will run with the can but it will be hot. If your slightly handy buy a BRT gas tube and tame that gas a little to make it run smoother With a can. Otherwise study Clint’s heavy buffers and look into those OR BOTH.

The best rifle for the dollar on planet earth.
PB
Not sure about the lower. Really don't know anything about the LMT rifles other than they are highly spoken of.

I'm looking into the brt tubes and I have a slash car-xh already from my from pws experiments. Also have an even heavier buffer I made for the A5 length tube. I've got a Tubbs spring also.

Do these rifles use the A5 extension or do they have the carbine length from the factory ?

I purchased their A5 tube for my PWS and it was a big improvement. Don't really want to break that setup just yet.
 
sweet gun. thats from before the move to iowa which is a good thing
 
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Put me in the club, it's officially mine. No box or anything with the gun but I can't complain.
 

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Recently installed a 0.086 BRT EZTune gas tube on my MWS 20" LMT SS 308 barrel, unsuppressed. No issues cycling with a 3.0 oz carbine buffer and the factory LMT buffer spring. Cases eject between 4-5 o'clock and land about 8-10 feet away.

Luckily I'm able to use the same 3.0 oz carbine buffer and the factory LMT buffer spring with my 24" factory LMT SS barrel in 6.5 Creedmoor, unsuppressed.

BRT originally sent me a 0.078 gas tube, but the rifle would not cycle properly on the 6.5 Creedmoor, unsuppressed. BRT then shipped me the 0.086 tube at no cost and a prepaid return label for the 0.078 tube.

Here's the factory LMT gas tube compared to the 0.078 BRT gas tube.

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I prefer the BRT EZTune gas tube with the 3.0 oz carbine buffer and the factory LMT buffer spring over the 8.5 XH carbine buffer and 308 spring from Heavy Buffers. As the 3.0 oz carbine buffer reduces the amount of reciprocating weight and felt recoil.
 
holy shit only $1000????!!!!???? That’s an awesome snag man!
I should have bought a lottery ticket on the way home because I'm never this lucky.

I'm pretty good friends with the owners of our little small town toy box. I got a text last night asking if I was interested in an LMT MWS. All he told me was he got it for a good price and it was $999 if I wanted it. I originally planned on going to pick it up Thursday but I figured I'd better go today before he changed his mind lol.

Apparently, a guy who my buddy said was a fairly regular customer, came in and just wanted to unload it because it was cluttering up his safe.
 
I see lmt offers a 7mm-08 barrel. Anybody seen one in action?

One I haven't seen yet is a 6creed and that kind of surprised me. I'd like to get another barrel but I just don't know if I can jump in with the 6.5 crowd.
 
I have a 16 LW SS barrel in my MWS and it shoots about 1 MOA so I'm kind of disappointed to say the least. Anyways I'm looking to get a Craddock 18" rifle gased barrel and have d.wilson convert it for the MWS.

I was thinking of making it a pig and getting the .875"GB diameter. Has anyone done a barrel conversion with a heavier profile than OEM and have issues?

The chrome lined barrel shoots just as good which is crazy to me.
 
Shooting this lmt is totally different to me than shooting my mk216 pws. The pws seems much more forgiving. I really had to stay on top of the lmt to make it shoot. The pws is tuned for the omega as much as it can be though. It has the lmt A5 length extension, tubbs spring, and an H2 carbine buffer. I didn't shoot the lmt with the omega. Factory bird cage on the end of it.

The pws has a lighter barrel profile and it is susceptible to heat in a five shot string. It'll hammer with rounds 1-3, it's not uncommon to see half moa, 4 and 5 open it up to one moa or just under. Even with that, I've shot 10-15 round strings out to 800 with at least an 80% hit ratio. Most times the misses are my error in wind calls. I don't know that I'll ever get good at reading wind.

I ordered a brt 50/50 tube for the lmt last night. I'll get that installed and rob the geisselle ssa-e from my pws before I shoot it again. I really had a hard time with factory trigger. It has a lot of creepy drag in it before it breaks. I think that's where most of my issues came from.

Anyway, targets. 1 and 2 got me in every group. 3,4, and 5 all hung together.
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Are there any known good loads for the chrome lined 308 barrels ? Or loads they seem to prefer?

I've got a few hundred 168 smk's to burn up then I'll probably move to a bullet that does better for hunting.
 
Are there any known good loads for the chrome lined 308 barrels ? Or loads they seem to prefer?

I've got a few hundred 168 smk's to burn up then I'll probably move to a bullet that does better for hunting.
IMG_8283.jpeg

One of my better 168gr loads tested @ 63 F
LMT MWS 16” CL Barrel and chronographed with Garmin Xero.

168 HPBT Nosler CC
RE15 @ 42.5gr
CCI No. 200 LRP
FED Brass
2.800”
AVG 2497 FPS ~ very close to factory 168 FGMM velocities in the same barrel (2540 FPS)

*RE15 is temperature sensitive*

IMG_8326.png
 
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I have a 16inch CL barrel and bought a 20 SS barrel hoping to get a big velocity jump and got a very slim bump if I remember correctly. About 60-75 FPS and was hoping more, like double. I just started a thread on barrel lengths and velocity so maybe next trip out I try multiple loads and see what gives.

That damn 16 CL barrel has many folks scratching their heads, in a good way.

PB
 
I have a 16inch CL barrel and bought a 20 SS barrel hoping to get a big velocity jump and got a very slim bump if I remember correctly. About 60-75 FPS and was hoping more, like double. I just started a thread on barrel lengths and velocity so maybe next trip out I try multiple loads and see what gives.

That damn 16 CL barrel has many folks scratching their heads, in a good way.

PB
True however, velocity isn’t everything just depends on what your trying to do.
 
It’s time that I evolve and finally get a suppressor. Reading through this thread I’m seeing people have good experiences with the Surefire Socom mini 308, Sandman K, and OSS cans. Decibel reduction is at the bottom of my priority list. I still have a 16” chrome lined barrel that gets shot a lot and function with the least mods to the rifle in that configuration, accuracy, flash suppression, first round pop, and overall length are my priorities. My main concerns are the least mods with the 16” mid gassed chrome lined barrels and accuracy.

Does anyone have any experience with all 3 or 2 out 3 of these cans that can share their experiences?

I can get the Sandman K for $687, Socom mini is going to cost $11-1200, and the OSS QD looks like it’ll run $1200+. Is the Socom worth twice the price? Is the OSS the best option? The price isn’t really a concern but if there isn’t much performance gain from the higher priced cans, I’d rather spend the difference on more ammo.

ETA: Socom mini
Ended up going with a Socom 2 Mini 762. Certified this morning so the official wait begins.
 
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Got it together today. I’ll figure out which optic to rob off which rifle until I get one specifically for this gun. View attachment 8361347
That looks great.
I’m sure that it’s been covered somewhere in this thread, but does that upper leave enough clearance to mount a suppressor?
 
That looks great.
I’m sure that it’s been covered somewhere in this thread, but does that upper leave enough clearance to mount a suppressor?
Thanks.

They’re supposed to. The first run of 15.5’s wouldn’t allow it on a 16” barrel so they cut it back to 15.3”.

@unclemoak may have some pictures.

Quick google search showed this pic
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Hey Fellas, I have a 16CL MWS that shoots great. I have a slick side upper that takes that rail segments and was messing with those and noticed a very slight amount of play to/fro on my barrel. No side to side but barely just a click. On my other two uppers I do not have this, anyone noticed a slightest amount of play in their barrel?

Yes, I torqued down the two screws that hold the barrel in place. At first I was like "Oh shit my screws came loose", not the problem.

PB
 
Hey Fellas, I have a 16CL MWS that shoots great. I have a slick side upper that takes that rail segments and was messing with those and noticed a very slight amount of play to/fro on my barrel. No side to side but barely just a click. On my other two uppers I do not have this, anyone noticed a slightest amount of play in their barrel?

Yes, I torqued down the two screws that hold the barrel in place. At first I was like "Oh shit my screws came loose", not the problem.

PB

I checked my LM8 upper. With the stock on the floor, left hand on the handguard, right hand on the flash hider, shook it and heard the “Click” you described. At first I was like, well fuck, now I know why they were $400. Then I took the upper off the lower and tried again. Both hands holding the handguard, thumbs pushing the barrel in all directions and no perceived movement. Put it back on the lower, repeated, and heard/felt the movement. Pulled it off again and nothing. I guess there’s just a little upper lower play. Mine shoots good. 🤷🏽‍♂️
 
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The upper and lower receivers on the MWS complete rifle that I purchased fit tightly. However the second upper that I purchased had some play when mated to the lower from the complete rifle.

If you would to eliminate the play between the upper and lower the cheapest and easiest method is to use an AR15AccuShim. Yes they work in MWS platform as well. Cost for the kit is $7.85. The shim does require sanding for correct fitment. Everything that you need is provided in the kit.

http://www.wheeldiamond.com/ar15accushim.htm

These are also marketed as National Match Shim.
http://www.wheeldiamond.com/nationalmatchshim.htm

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Play between upper/lower is a non issue for me. I'm talking about the barrel shifting forward and backwards after tightening down properly. I doubt its significant but still curious.

PB
 
Play between upper/lower is a non issue for me. I'm talking about the barrel shifting forward and backwards after tightening down properly. I doubt its significant but still curious.

PB
Any answer from LMT?
 
Need some info on MWS LM8's rail cover option. I saw these photos on another forum about using Centurion's rail cover on MWS' LM8 upper. Anyone knows how this is done? The look is certainly better to my eyes than LMT's plastic strips. Centurion listed thee specs: Mlok, KeyMod, and their own Standard CMR rail covers. I suspect it's the later? What screw to get for LMT's LM8 rail?


Centurion LMT1.JPG
Centurion LMT2.JPG
 
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Those Centurion covers reek of cheap. I threw the ones that came with CMR rail in the trash
 
Need some info on MWS LM8's rail cover option. I saw these photos on another forum about using Centurion's rail cover on MWS' LM8 upper. Anyone knows how this is done? The look is certainly better to my eyes than LMT's plastic strips. Centurion listed thee specs: Mlok, KeyMod, and their own Standard CMR rail covers. I suspect it's the later? What screw to get for LMT's LM8 rail?


View attachment 8372628View attachment 8372629
I actually prefer running the LM8 rail slick. I ran with some converted URX panels for a while, and while cool looking, the LM8 handguard being without all the MLOK cutouts it's actually quite pleasant to hold.