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Tikka T3 Thread

RGS88 said:
Got 20 minutes last week to run to the free range and get the rifle sighted in. First 5 rounds through the gun, using the cheap Winchester power point 129 grain.

I'd love to say putting two rounds in the same hole was skill, but it was rounds #3 and 5.

Picked up some Horandy ELD match and a lead sled to hopefully get it completely dialed in.

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Click to expand...

Leave the Lead Sled at home.

It works great as something to hold your gun during cleaning the barrel.
It is a horrible choice for a shooting rest, however.

An elevated check pad may be helpful with your particular scope height.
 
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DubfromGA said:
Leave the Lead Sled at home.

It works great as something to hold your gun during cleaning the barrel.
It is a horrible choice for a shooting rest, however.

An elevated check pad may be helpful with your particular scope height.
Click to expand...
Where’s the Lead Sled? He’s using two sand bags. They work just fine. (Maybe I missed something?)

I agree that Lead Sleds suck.
 
DubfromGA said:
Third sentence of his post....
Click to expand...
Goddamnit lol I read the post three times and missed it. D’oh!

Yes, do not buy a POS lead sled.

The biggest recoil-control tip I’ve learned is to not place the rifle butt in the spot everyone thinks is the shoulder pocket.

Frank says to place it over your collar bone, closer to the centerline of your body (still confusingly calls it the shoulder pocket though). Right under the outer edge of your jaw where the collarbone dives back into your upper torso.

I know it sounds daft, but the closer to the centerline you get the less torque is applied to your torso and the more straight back the recoil becomes.

And square your shoulders to the target. Do not jut your left shoulder out front (if you are right-handed).

Spending the cash on his online classes is the best money I ever spent on learning to shoot.
 
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DubfromGA said:
Leave the Lead Sled at home.

It works great as something to hold your gun during cleaning the barrel.
It is a horrible choice for a shooting rest, however.

An elevated check pad may be helpful with your particular scope height.
Click to expand...

I don't know if it makes much difference, but I had purchased a Caldwell shooting rest (so not a "real" lead sled?), not something that gets weighted down. My intention was to use it to assist in getting as close to a "perfect" zero on the Tikka and my AR. I did also think of it as being handy for cleaning, so a dual purpose purchase.

The way I figured it was, get the zero right and make sure my equipment is on point using the Caldwell rest, and then when I start shooting with a bipod or free hand I'll know where MY skills are lacking, rather than questioning whether or not my zero was on.

Or is that a silly way of looking at it? And that's a genuine question, not me being snarky
 
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Problem with the lead sled and other one-piece shooting rests is that any disturbance at one end gets transferred instantly to the other end, magnifying said disturbance in the process. Recoil is a pretty big disturbance.

So, even though your aim is very precise, the result leaves much to be desired.
 
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Your zero will change from said shooting rest, to a standing zero, to a kneeling zero, to a prone zero. You can eventually work it out with training or practice, but the guns zero off a rest is not my zero, is not your zero, etc... you get the idea.

Shoot your zero prone for load development as it is the easiest to reproduce and is most stable, and then rezero your ammo in the position you think you are most likely to be shooting from most of the time and try to train yourself to maintain that zero in all the different positions you think you will shoot from. My .03 cents
 
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RGS88 said:
I don't know if it makes much difference, but I had purchased a Caldwell shooting rest (so not a "real" lead sled?), not something that gets weighted down. My intention was to use it to assist in getting as close to a "perfect" zero on the Tikka and my AR. I did also think of it as being handy for cleaning, so a dual purpose purchase.

The way I figured it was, get the zero right and make sure my equipment is on point using the Caldwell rest, and then when I start shooting with a bipod or free hand I'll know where MY skills are lacking, rather than questioning whether or not my zero was on.

Or is that a silly way of looking at it? And that's a genuine question, not me being snarky
Click to expand...


The Caldwell Lead Sled that I am accustomed to have a pocket that provides a firm rear stop for the rifle.
It transfers all of the recoil into the rifle.....hammering it.

I've seen wooden stocked magnum sporter weight hunting rifles have significant stock damage from these things.


Now, the free standing Caldwell shooting rest that allows a separate rear bag that supports the stock is fine as it allows the rifle to move with the recoil. Your body absorbs the recoil more than the stock.
 
Wanting to add a cheekrest cover pad to a soon to arrive T3X TAC A1 (in the factory chassis).


I see where Wiebad offers one, but have been unable to find pics anywhere of it on a TAC A1.


Searched through this thread but didn’t see any.


Anyone using a Wiebad or other pad on their TAC A1 ?
 
RGS88 said:
I don't know if it makes much difference, but I had purchased a Caldwell shooting rest (so not a "real" lead sled?), not something that gets weighted down. My intention was to use it to assist in getting as close to a "perfect" zero on the Tikka and my AR. I did also think of it as being handy for cleaning, so a dual purpose purchase.

The way I figured it was, get the zero right and make sure my equipment is on point using the Caldwell rest, and then when I start shooting with a bipod or free hand I'll know where MY skills are lacking, rather than questioning whether or not my zero was on.

Or is that a silly way of looking at it? And that's a genuine question, not me being snarky
Click to expand...
Will give you a wrong zero when you are in the field, as recoil affects your point of impact, and you will not deal with recoil the same as with that lead sled or similar.
Use bipod or bags, if that what you use in the field.
 
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RGS88 said:
Got 20 minutes last week to run to the free range and get the rifle sighted in. First 5 rounds through the gun, using the cheap Winchester power point 129 grain.

I'd love to say putting two rounds in the same hole was skill, but it was rounds #3 and 5.

Picked up some Horandy ELD match and a lead sled to hopefully get it completely dialed in.

53517505913_891968c500_b.jpg


53517505933_dce8a614cf_b.jpg
Click to expand...
Looking at your target and making some suggestions. I think there's a reasonably good chance that gun loves that ammo. If you get two shots in one hole it is rarely on accident, but meaning rather a sign of the gods that something is lining up right between your gun and the ammo, and you as a shooter. I'd bet that is a half minute gun or better!

Round 2 lines up perfectly with your vertical of the two shots in the bullseye and round 4 lines up perfectly with the two in the bull laterally. Shot 1 might be a fluke. It seems like there are reasons for the position of rounds 2 and 4 relative to the one hole groups of 3 and 5.

I'd try some more of that ammo and practice your fundamentals. I'd wager the more you shoot that gun the better your groups will get.

If I were a bettin' man I would also wager your left shoulder tends to be positioned forward of your right sometimes, which would explain when your point of impacts is left of your point of aim. Try and keep you shoulders square and perpendicular to the gun when it's pointing at your target and that should largely go away. Also try keeping the butt of the rifle as close to your midline of your collar bone as you can allow. The shoulder pocket is really good for hitting left of targets also and shant be used without VERY much consideration. Hitting low probably means your gun isn't well enough supported on the butt stock with your rear bag when the rifle is shouldered up. If possible try compressing the bag under the gun so the butt stock can't go anywhere while you have it shouldered firmly to your body.
 
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DubfromGA said:
The Caldwell Lead Sled that I am accustomed to have a pocket that provides a firm rear stop for the rifle.
It transfers all of the recoil into the rifle.....hammering it.

I've seen wooden stocked magnum sporter weight hunting rifles have significant stock damage from these things.


Now, the free standing Caldwell shooting rest that allows a separate rear bag that supports the stock is fine as it allows the rifle to move with the recoil. Your body absorbs the recoil more than the stock.
Click to expand...

So I had bought this one thinking that because the stock would still be shouldered that it would be more acceptable? I do plan on getting a bipod for the rifle at some point here. My thinking was that if the front is just resting on something extremely stable (even more so that a bipod), and the gun is free to recoil back and transfer most of that energy to my shoulder, that it would be an easier/more accurate zero without "hurting" the gun or optic.

53538901421_58bd60ef23.jpg


Raffy said:
Looking at your target and making some suggestions. I think there's a reasonably good chance that gun loves that ammo. If you get two shots in one hole it is rarely on accident, but meaning rather a sign of the gods that something is lining up right between your gun and the ammo, and you as a shooter. I'd bet that is a half minute gun or better!

Round 2 lines up perfectly with your vertical of the two shots in the bullseye and round 4 lines up perfectly with the two in the bull laterally. Shot 1 might be a fluke. It seems like there are reasons for the position of rounds 2 and 4 relative to the one hole groups of 3 and 5.

I'd try some more of that ammo and practice your fundamentals. I'd wager the more you shoot that gun the better your groups will get.

If I were a bettin' man I would also wager your left shoulder tends to be positioned forward of your right sometimes, which would explain when your point of impacts is left of your point of aim. Try and keep you shoulders square and perpendicular to the gun when it's pointing at your target and that should largely go away. Also try keeping the butt of the rifle as close to your midline of your collar bone as you can allow. The shoulder pocket is really good for hitting left of targets also and shant be used without VERY much consideration. Hitting low probably means your gun isn't well enough supported on the butt stock with your rear bag when the rifle is shouldered up. If possible try compressing the bag under the gun so the butt stock can't go anywhere while you have it shouldered firmly to your body.
Click to expand...

Thanks for taking the time to write that all out, I'm still absolutely brand new and reading up on the basic fundamentals. I'm still clueless on body positioning, etc..
 
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RGS88 said:
So I had bought this one thinking that because the stock would still be shouldered that it would be more acceptable? I do plan on getting a bipod for the rifle at some point here. My thinking was that if the front is just resting on something extremely stable (even more so that a bipod), and the gun is free to recoil back and transfer most of that energy to my shoulder, that it would be an easier/more accurate zero without "hurting" the gun or optic.

53538901421_58bd60ef23.jpg




Thanks for taking the time to write that all out, I'm still absolutely brand new and reading up on the basic fundamentals. I'm still clueless on body positioning, etc..
Click to expand...
That should be much less damaging than the Lead Sled models.
I'd probably place some type of cloth or towel between the rear rest and the stock in hopes that it would allow the stock and easier movement under recoil by making that rear less "grippy"





When I'm using sporter weight hunting rifles:


I picked up a Caldwell rest that is really steady....but man that thing is a beast to tote around.

All steel...or mostly steel.

Flexibility to use a variety of front & rear bags.

Very economical, too.



Image 4.jpeg





One of these may be almost as good and much, much easier to carry.
Mainly polymer. Can use any rear bag that works for you.


Image 5.jpeg


When hunting, most of my shots either find me resting the front stock over a padded shooting rail (similar feel to the rests above), off shooting sticks or using the sling.


I'll be the first to admit that I've not practiced near enough with the sling over the years.

It told on me, too.
 
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Basically get a sturdy front rest and a seperate rear bag. They should not be attached to each other. There is no need to reinvent the wheel. Enough of the world's best F-class and benchrest shooters use it to prove it works.

One-piece rests are for so-called rail guns. Specifically designed stocks to fit specifically designed rests. All these other rests are well-designed and marketed to seperate you from your money.
 
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Here’s my progression, if it’s any help:
  1. Bald Eagle slingshot front rest and a Protektor rabbit ear rear bag. Bald Eagle is now made by Grizzly. Cumbersome.
  2. 14lbs X-shaped “sandbag” (actually full of polypropylene re-grind) and various rear squeeze bags. Still use this setup for pdog shooting, but thinking of transitioning as it’s heavy.
  3. Various bipods and I’ve settled on the “Compromise” rear bag from our very own Mark Taylor, aka @Enough Said. You might need one of his other height bags…you’ll have a box full of various rear bags as you need to find what works for you.
www.snipershide.com

The Taylor was Here Rear Bag

I ship in small flat rate boxes and it’s full. Nice, tidy package.
www.snipershide.com www.snipershide.com

Why I am transitioning to bipods for most range work is that they are light. I am also finding I might shoot better with them. I only shoot from a bench or a tripod, btw.

For bipods I would recommend:
  • Atlas CAL for a simple well-made bipod, but by design it doesn’t totally lock off the cant
  • Any LRA bipod as they are carbon fiber (light, nice on the hands in the winter) and do offer total cant lock-off. Wide bipods won’t fit in your case when attached, if that’s important. I own the Lite-Tactical F-Class for heavy rigs.
  • Elite Iron non-panning model. This is the best bipod out there, but might be hard to fit on multiple rifles without buying more adapters. I own the panner for varmints, but it has some transportation challenges if left attached as it doesn’t have a pan lock off.
Do read up on bipod technique. It’s much different than using a sandbag or benchrest-type rest. And also read up on how to use the rear squeeze bag.
 
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Finally.picked up my ctr, planning on shooting it for a few weeks and then putting it in either a krg bravo, or xray. I'm able to get very good prices on both so does it all come down yo personal preference? I'm leaning towards the xray right now.

Thanks much for any input
 
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x0mb13 said:
Finally.picked up my ctr, planning on shooting it for a few weeks and then putting it in either a krg bravo, or xray. I'm able to get very good prices on both so does it all come down yo personal preference? I'm leaning towards the xray right now.

Thanks much for any input
Click to expand...


Congrats on the new rifle. (y)
 
carbonbased said:
Here’s my progression, if it’s any help:
  1. Bald Eagle slingshot front rest and a Protektor rabbit ear rear bag. Bald Eagle is now made by Grizzly. Cumbersome.
  2. 14lbs X-shaped “sandbag” (actually full of polypropylene re-grind) and various rear squeeze bags. Still use this setup for pdog shooting, but thinking of transitioning as it’s heavy.
  3. Various bipods and I’ve settled on the “Compromise” rear bag from our very own Mark Taylor, aka @Enough Said. You might need one of his other height bags…you’ll have a box full of various rear bags as you need to find what works for you.
www.snipershide.com

The Taylor was Here Rear Bag

I ship in small flat rate boxes and it’s full. Nice, tidy package.
www.snipershide.com www.snipershide.com

Why I am transitioning to bipods for most range work is that they are light. I am also finding I might shoot better with them. I only shoot from a bench or a tripod, btw.

For bipods I would recommend:
  • Atlas CAL for a simple well-made bipod, but by design it doesn’t totally lock off the cant
  • Any LRA bipod as they are carbon fiber (light, nice on the hands in the winter) and do offer total cant lock-off. Wide bipods won’t fit in your case when attached, if that’s important. I own the Lite-Tactical F-Class for heavy rigs.
  • Elite Iron non-panning model. This is the best bipod out there, but might be hard to fit on multiple rifles without buying more adapters. I own the panner for varmints, but it has some transportation challenges if left attached as it doesn’t have a pan lock off.
Do read up on bipod technique. It’s much different than using a sandbag or benchrest-type rest. And also read up on how to use the rear squeeze bag.
Click to expand...





Recently picked up some of those very rear bags from The Guru. :)

Picked up the small-medium-large trio.

Looking forward to getting the to the range and giving them a test run.

IMG_2535.jpeg
 
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CTR in 308 was zeroed sub MOA at 100 yds with 168 grain round. Went to a 130 grain round and grouped sub MOA but 2 inches high. Is this to be expected?
 
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FFL called me this afternoon to let me know the TAC A1 had come in.











Before I could get out of the driveway......the glass for it arrived.

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Picked up a couple pounds of SW Precision Rifle from my FFL when I was there.,




Today has been a great day off work. (y) (y) (y) (y)


Gonna grab some dinner and then get the rifle on the bench to adjust the trigger, install a rail section, brake and mount the scope.

I have a trigger spring on the way for it, too.
 
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wisdomseek said:
CTR in 308 was zeroed sub MOA at 100 yds with 168 grain round. Went to a 130 grain round and grouped sub MOA but 2 inches high. Is this to be expected?
Click to expand...
Totally business as usual.
... and, as said, bullet weight does not let you predict where the different ones will go. You need to sight in with the specific load that you want to use, and/or write down what the different loads are doing.

I recently tried a couple of different .223 factory loads at 100 meters, in a semi-auto. The heavier bullet went higher in my case (and grouped better).
 
Definite improvement over my last time out! Really need to find a day where I have more time to shoot, I'd have loved to give it another go and see if I can get all 5 at least touching orange.

53545101532_546932127f_b.jpg
 
RGS88 said:
Definite improvement over my last time out! Really need to find a day where I have more time to shoot, I'd have loved to give it another go and see if I can get all 5 at least touching orange.

53545101532_546932127f_b.jpg
Click to expand...
That's about what my AI does with Hornady 140 ELD M's. 147's better. Loves the Federal 140 SMK's. Overall, FGMM has proven to be a better off the shelf box ammo for my rifle. Hated the Berger factory stuff, all of it.

But, that's just my experience...YMMV
 
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Lwood said:
That's about what my AI does with Hornady 140 ELD M's. 147's better. Loves the Federal 140 SMK's. Overall, FGMM has proven to be a better off the shelf box ammo for my rifle. Hated the Berger factory stuff, all of it.

But, that's just my experience...YMMV
Click to expand...
Second the FGMM. This is 3@100 from my 6.5 TACa1
IMG_1023.jpeg
 
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Well, got my Tikka .204 CTR-mag only Bravo today in Sako green. Surprised as hell to discover I got a version 2!!!

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Yeah, that’s my angled W3 cheekpiece on there. Love it. Gonna have to get a clone for the Bravo.

Man, CTR mags are the shit for the 204. Beautiful feeding, way better than AICS on my R700. Often couldn’t even tell when I picked a round up. Only had time for 15 rounds 😢 so this is preliminary, but I didn’t have a single hitch.

Can’t wait until KRG releases their updated Midas trigger. If it’s like my two-stage Bix I might just ditch R700 pattern rifles altogether.

That’s the factory 22” sporter 204 barrel on there. Picked this puppy up used off of GB. It was shooting weird in the factory laminated stock. It would shoot 32gr vmax Hornady factory ammo about .8 MOA, but inconsistently, and 40gr sorta poor. I’d sometimes get wild flyers, like +2moa.

Anyway, I’ve ordered a heavier 204 barrel from bugholes. I’m sure it'll shoot better. Might keep it at 22” as well for more of a walk-around gun.

If this skinny barrel turns out to be a shooter I’ll try to save it when it gets taken off. Maybe I’ll have a switch barrel Tikka?

I tried eight 204 rounds in the 10 round 223 CTR mag and it was fine. I think nine will get sketchy as the nose tends to pop up.

For someone like me who basically only shoots small calibers, the Tikka mag situation alone is super compelling.
 
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Lwood said:
That's about what my AI does with Hornady 140 ELD M's. 147's better. Loves the Federal 140 SMK's. Overall, FGMM has proven to be a better off the shelf box ammo for my rifle. Hated the Berger factory stuff, all of it.

But, that's just my experience...YMMV
Click to expand...
Horizontal spread from trigger technique I would bet
 
RGS88 said:
Definite improvement over my last time out! Really need to find a day where I have more time to shoot, I'd have loved to give it another go and see if I can get all 5 at least touching orange.

53545101532_546932127f_b.jpg
Sorry, quoted the wrong post
Click to expand...
 
carbonbased said:
Well, got my Tikka .204 CTR-mag only Bravo today in Sako green. Surprised as hell to discover I got a version 2!!!

View attachment 8356755
View attachment 8356756
View attachment 8356757
Yeah, that’s my angled W3 cheekpiece on there. Love it. Gonna have to get a clone for the Bravo.

Man, CTR mags are the shit for the 204. Beautiful feeding, way better than AICS on my R700. Often couldn’t even tell when I picked a round up. Only had time for 15 rounds 😢 so this is preliminary, but I didn’t have a single hitch.

Can’t wait until KRG releases their updated Midas trigger. If it’s like my two-stage Bix I might just ditch R700 pattern rifles altogether.

That’s the factory 22” sporter 204 barrel on there. Picked this puppy up used off of GB. It was shooting weird in the factory laminated stock. It would shoot 32gr vmax Hornady factory ammo about .8 MOA, but inconsistently, and 40gr sorta poor. I’d sometimes get wild flyers, like +2moa.

Anyway, I’ve ordered a heavier 204 barrel from bugholes. I’m sure it'll shoot better. Might keep it at 22” as well for more of a walk-around gun.

If this skinny barrel turns out to be a shooter I’ll try to save it when it gets taken off. Maybe I’ll have a switch barrel Tikka?

I tried eight 204 rounds in the 10 round 223 CTR mag and it was fine. I think nine will get sketchy as the nose tends to pop up.

For someone like me who basically only shoots small calibers, the Tikka mag situation alone is super compelling.
Click to expand...

Looks great.

I bet it is very comfortable to run.
 
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WyomingShooter said:
I'm having feeding issues with my Tikka T3X CTR in 6.5 Creedmoor. Rounds 9 and 10 will not feed. The bullet tip is not high enough to chamber. Suggestions? Thanks.
Click to expand...
There’s a spring mod to get more tension (YouTube it). You can also look at the feed lips of the mag and bend them out a little to get the round to sit higher in the magazine.
Also, does your mag feel tight in the magwell, or is there play when it’s locked in place?
 
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trob said:
There’s a spring mod to get more tension (YouTube it). You can also look at the feed lips of the mag and bend them out a little to get the round to sit higher in the magazine.
Also, does your mag feel tight in the magwell, or is there play when it’s locked in place?
Click to expand...
Thanks. It appears I need to tweak the mag spring a bit. I will do that.
 
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Good afternoon all. Just picked up a left handed T3x SL in 6.5cm from the wife as a Bday present. She even dressed it with a Viper 6.5-20x44 Deadhold for me.(not sure on that exact one yet, but gonna give it a go for awhile at least) I’m just getting into Long distance and precision. Wondering what commercial ammo y’all are using for range days or would I be better off picking up reloading…. And if reloading is the way to go, what projectiles and loads are you using for 800 and further that are maintaining the best energy at distances. Pic for attention hopefully. New and willing to learn well!!
 

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Aksnowberm said:
Good afternoon all. Just picked up a left handed T3x SL in 6.5cm from the wife as a Bday present. She even dressed it with a Viper 6.5-20x44 Deadhold for me.(not sure on that exact one yet, but gonna give it a go for awhile at least) I’m just getting into Long distance and precision. Wondering what commercial ammo y’all are using for range days or would I be better off picking up reloading…. And if reloading is the way to go, what projectiles and loads are you using for 800 and further that are maintaining the best energy at distances. Pic for attention hopefully. New and willing to learn well!!
Click to expand...


Congrats on having a supercool wife.

Congrats on finding a Southpaw stick.

Congrats on buying one chambered in a cartridge that any gun shop will have great ammo in stock...ready for you. It is going to be easy to find accurate target and hunting ammo. The folks at the LGS can point you in the right direction.


Also, Happy Birthday.
 
Aksnowberm said:
Good afternoon all. Just picked up a left handed T3x SL in 6.5cm from the wife as a Bday present. She even dressed it with a Viper 6.5-20x44 Deadhold for me.(not sure on that exact one yet, but gonna give it a go for awhile at least) I’m just getting into Long distance and precision. Wondering what commercial ammo y’all are using for range days or would I be better off picking up reloading…. And if reloading is the way to go, what projectiles and loads are you using for 800 and further that are maintaining the best energy at distances. Pic for attention hopefully. New and willing to learn well!!
Click to expand...
Congrats on the new rifle.

For target shooting it's hard to go wrong with Hornady 140 or 147 grain ELD Match ammo or Federal Gold Medal Match loaded with either Sierra Match Kings or Berger bullets. I hand load for mine using Hornady 140 grain ELD Match bullets and H4350, and the only real difference in my ammo and factory ammo is velocity consistency. I also load the 143 grain Hornady ELD-X for hunting, but I have not had an opportunity to try one out on an animal yet.
 
TheJeanyus said:
Congrats on the new rifle.

For target shooting it's hard to go wrong with Hornady 140 or 147 grain ELD Match ammo or Federal Gold Medal Match loaded with either Sierra Match Kings or Berger bullets. I hand load for mine using Hornady 140 grain ELD Match bullets and H4350, and the only real difference in my ammo and factory ammo is velocity consistency. I also load the 143 grain Hornady ELD-X for hunting, but I have not had an opportunity to try one out on an animal yet.
Click to expand...
Maybe I’ll try it out on a caribou or moose this season, hoping to get one of each, and maybe a bison and elk too…. What ranges are you getting on those factory loads?
 
Brought the pro varmint back to life. I’ll never fault anyone calling me a dumbass for putting this much work into a Boyd’s stock.

Not the prettiest gal when I got her…
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Sandblasted to see what I was working with:
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Cleaned it out, opened up barrel channel, re-installed pillars and prepped for new bedding:
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MarineTex fun:
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Fresh paint and all cleaned up:
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Waiting on an SRS Arca rail and then she’ll be done. Super cheap and turned out way better than I imagined. But only a temporary home until I can get my hands on an ATX chassis.
 
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Not sure what you mean??? Shell holder is for reloading and a t3x is for shooting?

What concerns do you have???
 
Yes but what is your question? The competition shell holder will work with any gun. They just allow you to adjust how much the shoulder on the brass is sized to allow for a tighter fit to a chamber and minimize over sizing.

At a general level, yes the competition shell holders will work for sizing brass for a t3x rifle.
 
Baron85 said:
Yes but what is your question? The competition shell holder will work with any gun. They just allow you to adjust how much the shoulder on the brass is sized to allow for a tighter fit to a chamber and minimize over sizing.

At a general level, yes the competition shell holders will work for sizing brass for a t3x rifle.
Click to expand...
Hey Right! I reload so what I meant was are they compatible? I tried them but returned them to Midway because the bolt never became easier to close. I just bought a new T3X Super Varmit 223 and I'd like to use them if I can. Any ideas?

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Sgt.O351 said:
Hey Right! I reload so what I meant was are they compatible? I tried them but returned them to Midway because the bolt never became easier to close. I just bought a new T3X Super Varmit 223 and I'd like to use them if I can. Any ideas?

​

Click to expand...
They aren't used with the gun. They are used with a reloading press. Learn reloading better. Sounds like your reloaded headspace may be long. I don't reload so take the advice as that.
 
Schütze said:
Is it possible you are talking about the SA series? The SO is the inverted version and adjust to 70” without adapter.
Click to expand...

Sgt.O351 said:
Hey Right! I reload so what I meant was are they compatible? I tried them but returned them to Midway because the bolt never became easier to close. I just bought a new T3X Super Varmit 223 and I'd like to use them if I can. Any ideas?

​

Click to expand...
To keep this thread clean I will PM you. If you would like a broader response make a new thread in the reloading section. Check your inbox.
 
Picking up my first Tikka (looking at the T3X CTR in 308), getting in to some precision and long range shooting. I have a hunting back ground that I have taken mule deer and elk out to 450ish yards (mostly using 300wsm, & 30-06) out of Model 70's and M77 in featherweight models. Really liking the Tikka, any thoughts and inputs on starting out, are much appreciated.
 
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