• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

Reloading 338LM

It depends if you anneal the brass. Annealing will give you more case life in general.

I would refer you to the Hodgdon Load Data website for load data.
 
It depends if you anneal the brass. Annealing will give you more case life in general.

I would refer you to the Hodgdon Load Data website for load data.
Bro im reload standart ammo basickle make from cartridge moust accurate what i can
 
  • Like
Reactions: MK20
Annealing will help. You can do that with a propane torch.

After that, a good press and a good powder scale will be of the most help.

What powders do you all have access to over there?
 
Annealing will help. You can do that with a propane torch.

After that, a good press and a good powder scale will be of the most help.

What powders do you all have access to over there?
I doo exacly same what you say
 
  • Like
Reactions: MK20
I doo exacly same what you say

I doo exacly same what you say
Annealing will help. You can do that with a propane torch.

After that, a good press and a good powder scale will be of the most help.

What powders do you all have access to over there?
Annealing will help. You can do that with a propane torch.

After that, a good press and a good powder scale will be of the most help.

What powders do you all have access to over there?
I dont hawe eany idea what kinde powder in thith loads 88 grain gunpowder under 300grn SMK my best load is 89.3 grn
 
I am getting ready to reload brass shot from my .338 Lapua after 2 firings. Will do annealing with a torch but not sure how long to heat. Single torch and and rotating by hand. Anyone have a suggestion on length of time to heat.
 
The real answer is to buy tempilaq and measure it accurately.
This is how I do my 338LM. Run the 750F Tempilaq around the inside of the neck, (gently) put the torch in a vice and the case in a deepwell socket on a drill and spin it in the flame. I remove the case from the flame as soon as I see the Tempilaq melt. I only process 338LM brass in batches of 100, so it's not a huge time suck to do it manually compared to my Giraud annealer for short action cases and 5.56 destined for DMR matches.
 
This is a little off topic. I am trying to resize some of my .338 Lapua brass and want to bump the shoulder about .002. Using a Lee precision classic single press and a Lee full length die. I cannot get the casings to fully go into the die. hey will jamb after about 1/8 inch and if I try to go further they will completely jamb in the die and if they come out the base is totally messed up. I am using lube as directed by Lee Precision. I have used 2 different dies with the same result and have destroyed 7 or 8 casings. Anyone else experienced this and is there another die I can try?
 
Measure your brass base diameter before and after it goes into the die. Also see if you can measure just the die inside with the points.
 
Question about bullets. If I am shooting bench rest long range shooting what type bullet is best? Not brand. I see there are hunting bullets and tactical bullets, solid bullets and hollow point. Thanks for the advice.
 
If I have 2 different brand 300 grain bullets, would I use the same amount of powder for each or does the brand dictate the load?