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McMillan u-10?

steve101610

Sergeant of the Hide
Full Member
Minuteman
Jan 13, 2019
123
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Anyone have a McMillan u-10? Looking to get the u-10 or another a-5 and I’m really liking the looks of the u-10. I cant seem to find any reviews or info on them.
 
Search for the mcmillan a-10. It was what the u10 used to be. They are essentially the same except the U had the universal action inlet vs the A being a custom inlet. Also the thing shelf on the U series is fast more aggressive (I actually prefer it functionally to the A10 for the thumb spot but the A10 tang area I think looks better.
 
I love this stock; it fits me like a glove.

My latest Tac Ops is on an A10 stock
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My a10 too fits like a glove. Mine ended up coming with a lighter fill than it was supposed to and I kept it...wish I would have taken them up on their offer to remake it but I didn't at the time. The forend has an excessive amount of flex (when putting the gun down on a barricade the barrel "lacks" against it, and that's even after I clearanced the barrel channel a bit more than they sent it) but I think I'm going to hog out the channel a bit and insert some thing to stiffen it. I have yet to find anything that has such a perfect trigger to grip spacing vs the standard grip that seemed based around people who could palm a dinner plate
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Question about the u10/a10. As I understand it's supposed to be for a "smaller frame/ height" shooters. Is this actually the case? I have a u1 and just removed some of the spacers on the back to get better fitment. I'm 5'8" and wondering if the u10 will be better for me.
Thanks
 
Any more data, reviews, thoughts about this stock?
 
Question about the u10/a10. As I understand it's supposed to be for a "smaller frame/ height" shooters. Is this actually the case? I have a u1 and just removed some of the spacers on the back to get better fitment. I'm 5'8" and wondering if the u10 will be better for me.
Thanks

It was designed that way. However, IMO, the reason is flawed. It's using a reference as a "normal" stock being the design that has been around decades. Which, IMO, the grip to trigger distance on most of them is nowhere close to ideal. Sure, some people with very large hands can take a "normal" Mcmillan or Manners grip and still get a perfect 90deg trigger.....but most shooters will need to alter their grip and do things like been on their fingertips or leave a gap between their bottom three fingers and the grip.

The A10/U10 moved the grip closer to what IMO is the proper or close to proper distance for most shooters. If you look at stocks/chassis like the AI plastic skins, KMW Sentinel, and most any chassis with an A2 grip intersect, you'll find the grip to trigger distance is significantly closer.

So, in a relative setting the A10/U10 is designed for smaller frame, but in a non relative setting many would consider it the normal and the others are for larger hands.
 
Any more data, reviews, thoughts about this stock?

We keep U10-7 (non butt hook) with factory installed Anschutz rails on revolving orders with Mcmillan. Pretty popular for agency/department rifles we build.

IMO, the best grip of a traditional style stock.
 
I got one in a little bit ago. Went with a Edge and spacers hoping for my kid to use it to grow into. The trigger lop has been my biggest issue with finding a decent stock to fit him and this one sure helps. I'm looking forward to getting it put together.
 
Mind posting pictures? I'm looking at ordering one with the edge fill also.

Thank you
 
We keep U10-7 (non butt hook) with factory installed Anschutz rails on revolving orders with Mcmillan. Pretty popular for agency/department rifles we build.

IMO, the best grip of a traditional style stock.
Talk to me about parallel stocks with butt hooks vs traditional angled stocks. I’ve always wondered if a slanted stock does anything to your recoil control and I’m not remembering what Frank thinks.
 
  1. Talk to me about parallel stocks with butt hooks vs traditional angled stocks. I’ve always wondered if a slanted stock does anything to your recoil control and I’m not remembering what Frank thinks.
I’m not sure what Frank thinks about this. I know I’ve seen pics of @Covertnoob5 using an angled buttstock in comps. Maybe he’ll chime in.

Most people around here seem to like flat bottomed buttstocks with hooks. I’ve been an angled buttstock guy myself, as its strengths lend itself for colony varmint shooting (chiefly fast elevation changes).

Now I’m no expert. Far from it. But here’s my take…

Angled buttstock​

PROS:​

  1. Very quick and easy to adjust for significant elevation changes via sliding rear bag
  2. Little to no vertical stringing if one doesn’t rely on the rear bag to support the buttstock (like benchrest-type shooters do). Instead, use the bag to limit fishtailing and to lightly deaden the minute heartbeat-type reticle movements.

CONS:​

  1. If one employs the rear bag like a benchrest shooter (wholly supporting buttstock) you’ll more likely have more vertical stringing
  2. Shooting from improvised positions, including tripods, in which there is no rear support can be a little harder without a hook to press the butt into shoulder pocket and to assist in gross aiming adjustments

Butt hook stock​

PROS:​

  1. During improvised field positions with no rear support (tripod, windows, etc) a hook is handy to anchor the buttpad into shoulder pocket and to a little more easily make gross aiming adjustments
  2. Hook also can be a handy spot to anchor a rear bag in the prone or bench
  3. Rear bag technique has a lower chance to cause vertical stringing

CONS:​

  1. Quite a bit more difficult to make larger elevation adjustments during fast dynamic shooting while prone/bench, especially if unpredictable situations arise. You may not have time to adjust your front support, leaving you with no rear bag support at all.

This year I’m going to try a flat bag rider more often during prairie dog shooting. I’ve fairly briefly used such a setup in the past but figured I should give it a more thorough test.
 
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Basically what he said ^^^

In the type of shooting most people on this forum do, when using a rear bag you should almost always have the rifle "bridged," as in you could let go of the rifle and your shoulder and bipod will hold it in the air. Then you bring the bag in for adjustments.

Obviously there's exceptions when you can't/won't be bridged, but that's the general idea.
 
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