I am just getting into reloading so forgive me if this is a silly question. I have bunch of once fired 223 brass from my AR, mostly federal stamped. I recently put together a 223 trainer, with the purpose of shooting cheap reloads to work on fundamentals. Am I ok resizing that brass for using in my bolt gun or will that create more hassle than worthwhile?
- Thread starter grapo
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It will work fine as long as you F/L size the brass down to about SAAMI minimum to get it to chamber in the Bolt Gun. I F/L my 223 brass to minimum so it will chamber in any of my AR's or a Bolt Guns.
Do you use a case gauge or comparator to set up your F/L die?
Do you use a case gauge or comparator to set up your F/L die?
I would set your die to F/L to chamber in your Bolt Gun. You can leave it set there for your AR loads also. I do this and my primer pockets go before I get anywhere near a case head separation.
They’ll last a loading or two, but depending on the vintage of Federal case, you’ll be digging a primer out of your AR after a couple loadings. Federal .223 primer pockets suck (at least they used to).
I had some older American Eagle (late 90’s) and found out the hard way. It may have improved since (I’ve not tried any).
I had some older American Eagle (late 90’s) and found out the hard way. It may have improved since (I’ve not tried any).
I prefer small base dies when loading for AR. I chamber gauge all loaded rounds in an EGW case gauge for peace of mind.
You can set your sizing die with any fancy gauges. Simply turn it down incrementally until it allows the case to chamber neutrally. I do 1/8 turn at a time. I prefer a slight feeling of compression upon bolt closing. For an AR it needs to be fully re sized, no resistance fit. Lock everything in place and go.
Years back there was an issue with Federal .223 web thickness.
Thin web and pockets went fast.
A pin can be used with a caliper to measure web thickness.
Thin web and pockets went fast.
A pin can be used with a caliper to measure web thickness.
I had some of this brass. I saw the videos of the web issue. I made a pin gauge and checked the brass. I found quite a number of cases that failed the case web gauge. I scrapped the bad cases and took the passable brass and reloaded it with a note on the container not to pickup and reuse the brass.
This was old, Federal Commercial cases from the 80's early 90's that had no primer crimp.
I have a lot of the newer, mid 2000's Federal 223 brass that has crimped primers. This brass is good and can be reloaded a number of times. A lot of this newer brass was made at the Lake City plant when Federal had the contract for the government. Winchester, currently has the contract.
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Federal does not do a final strike on the case head to harden the brass. That is why it seems soft. It is a cost cutting thing. They don't care about reloaders. The brass just has to survive the first firing is all they care about.
And remember the primer pockets are probably crimped on the brass so you will have to do that.
And remember the primer pockets are probably crimped on the brass so you will have to do that.
I would leave your resizing die setup for your bolt gun and resize the brass from the AR. I do it all the time, never an issue.
It's likely some of the AR fired brass will not be sized at the base enough for the bolt gun. This is where small base dies become helpful. You should invest in a 223 case gauge and use it to check each piece of brass, especially when going from one rifle to another.
Also a word of warning. You should always use a case gauge for AR ammunition. Any round in the AR that jambs is extremely difficult to remove and the best and safest method I know of is is to not have one.
Also a word of warning. You should always use a case gauge for AR ammunition. Any round in the AR that jambs is extremely difficult to remove and the best and safest method I know of is is to not have one.
Federal 223 brass is something I have sworn off. I tries using it for plinking ect and the issues just aren't worth it. Just buy some once fired LC or my preference is 556 Starline brass thats new. It's well worth the cost and you have actual good consistent brass.
