I find that I am more comfortable shooting an AR from prone and a bipod with a precision grip. With my long fingers, it allows me to get a more 90deg press on the trigger. I use a traditional grip everywhere else, even with my bolt gun(s). But, when using an AR as a precision rifle, I prefer the precision grip. Weird, I know.
- Thread starter CR2 Dude
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I get that, as I said I have long fingers too but I put the mdt elite on my precision AR and wrap it and it helps a lot. I think it's really just giving my fingers somewhere to go so they aren't bunched up, specifically the trigger finger of course. In order to move with the gun, you have to wrap it, so I think the wider grip is a better solution if you haven't tries that, I'd think about it. You can find em on here regular for 50 bucks
the only thing i would say is that "accidental" double-taps means that the shooter may be stabbing at the trigger rather than following through with the trigger pull.
How hard do you pull straight back? I am new to precision shooting.
It depends. Heavier rifles will probably like more pull, lighter rifles will like less. Either way I’d call it “firm”. The absolute key is to have your body positioned so you can truly pull straight away from the target without steering at all.
The whole purpose for me placing my RH thumb on the RH side of the rifle is for rapid bolt manipulation of a bolt gun, if I even do it. Depends on the stock/frame design of the bolt gun. It just allows my thumb to be right there as soon as I my trigger finger comes off the trigger and lifts the bolt knob. The thumb prevents me from over-rotation and unnecessary movements for mechanical efficiency of rapid-manipulating the bolt, then having a digit there to return stroke the bolt and lock the action down again.
When I see guys doing it on ARs, I think to myself, “Do they know where that came from and why?"
You see a lot of the YouTube generation doing this with ARs, trying to look cool, but it doesn’t make sense. Not hating, just pointing out where I think it came from and why it doesn’t apply to the AR-15/AR-10.
A lot of these guys belong behind the camera and editing, not in front of it. In fact, most of them don’t belong in front of the camera yet, but will do really well some day.
When I see guys doing it on ARs, I think to myself, “Do they know where that came from and why?"
You see a lot of the YouTube generation doing this with ARs, trying to look cool, but it doesn’t make sense. Not hating, just pointing out where I think it came from and why it doesn’t apply to the AR-15/AR-10.
A lot of these guys belong behind the camera and editing, not in front of it. In fact, most of them don’t belong in front of the camera yet, but will do really well some day.
Okay thinking through this further, trying to justify in my head why this matters:
if you pull off at a slight angle or vector that is therefore not in a straight line to the target, are you thereby moving your barrel in the very brief time it takes for the bullet to exit the barrel, and therefore “steering” or “pulling” your shot off target? Or is there something else going on?
Regarding how hard to pull, is it something where you have to experiment with each gun and what works for your body to get what gives the most consistency?
Wouldnt it matter on hand size, finger and thumb length? Everyone is different and whats comfortable and easy for one may not be best for another. Some people are even wrong handed, lol. Eric Clapton holds his pick very loosely with the tips of two fingers, while Eddie Van Halen hold his pick between his thumb and middle finger. Gary Moore rested his fingers on the body and wore the paint off...
Use the technique that is most comfortable to you and you are most proficient with. Who would have told Eddie Van Halen he held his pick wrong or Gary Moore that he shouldnt rest his hand that way?
Use the technique that is most comfortable to you and you are most proficient with. Who would have told Eddie Van Halen he held his pick wrong or Gary Moore that he shouldnt rest his hand that way?
Things might have been a bit different if guitars had recoil…
My favorite part of this thread is OP soliciting forum opinions and then arguing with anyone that doesn't share his own.
Kung-fu grip your AR...or don't. You don't need to over think it.
Kung-fu grip your AR...or don't. You don't need to over think it.
This is
This is what I had to learn about gas guns to get bolt accuracy. About every video you see is I would have a .4 group except the one flyer. Steering is what put it all together for me.
This is what I had to learn about gas guns to get bolt accuracy. About every video you see is I would have a .4 group except the one flyer. Steering is what put it all together for me.
In the most general sense......as far as the actual trigger press part of fundamentals, you should be able to cut your thumb completely off your hand and nothing would change with your trigger press. As in, for the press itself, you thumb should play no part.
But, manipulating the weapon is where your thumb absolutely comes into play. I don't think anyone would argue against thumb around grip is better for control/manipulation than thumb floated.
The goal I set for myself and students is to be able to use both methods equally as well and use the appropriate grip type based on your comfort in whatever shooting position you are at the time.
I'm definitely not in the know on carbine specific competitions that work off a time system, so I can't comment much on that part. However, in a PRS type competition, if you like floating your thumb.....it's an insignificant amount of time difference to make the trigger press with your thumb floated, then wrapping your thumb to move/manipulate the rifle or put it on safe. When I was using stocks/chassis such as the KMW Sentinel or AI-AT, I used both the float and the wrap interchangeably without any issue.
But, manipulating the weapon is where your thumb absolutely comes into play. I don't think anyone would argue against thumb around grip is better for control/manipulation than thumb floated.
The goal I set for myself and students is to be able to use both methods equally as well and use the appropriate grip type based on your comfort in whatever shooting position you are at the time.
I'm definitely not in the know on carbine specific competitions that work off a time system, so I can't comment much on that part. However, in a PRS type competition, if you like floating your thumb.....it's an insignificant amount of time difference to make the trigger press with your thumb floated, then wrapping your thumb to move/manipulate the rifle or put it on safe. When I was using stocks/chassis such as the KMW Sentinel or AI-AT, I used both the float and the wrap interchangeably without any issue.
I'll usually float my thumb while doing precision prone shooting. Not because the cool kids are doing it or because I'm terribly worried about it steering the gun, it's mostly because while prone with the short LOP I prefer my whole wrist/forearm can lay at a slightly more natural angle with less tension in it.
As far as using it for any sort of dynamic or fast paced shooting, there's no way it can help you control or retain possession of the gun. I'm not mil or LEO, but I but weapon retention is important to them. I do a fair amount of running on the clock with guns, and a lot of that is one handed. Some times it's strong hand on grip, others it's weak hand on handguard, depending on which direction I'm running and where the 180° I can't break is, but regardless of which hand I use, I also use my thumb 100% of the time, because that's my special primate trick.
I don't shoot any kind of matches with rifles. I have short fingers. Even if my thumb is wrapped around the pistol grip I have to break my grip to reach for the safety with my thumb on an AR. I have to float my thumb to get a 90* trigger finger. An ambi safety is a much better solution for me.
Doubling is mentioned with the floating thumb. Yes, this has happened to me on the bench.
I know the reason. If you follow the guidelines of Frank and SSG Taylor, you're pulling the rifle back into your shoulder with about 16 lb. of pressure with the firing hand. When shooting a bolt gun, they want you to freeze the trigger exactly when it breaks. I can't do that with an AR if I'm not applying enough rearward pressure, that's when I'll double.
Maybe this wouldn't happen if I had recoil management mastered, but I do not. There is rearward and forward motion.
I have to pin the trigger to the rear on an AR and ride the recoil. I can stage the trigger on my 9mm plastic fantastic for USPSA, but I don't think the two are analogous.
Doubling is mentioned with the floating thumb. Yes, this has happened to me on the bench.
I know the reason. If you follow the guidelines of Frank and SSG Taylor, you're pulling the rifle back into your shoulder with about 16 lb. of pressure with the firing hand. When shooting a bolt gun, they want you to freeze the trigger exactly when it breaks. I can't do that with an AR if I'm not applying enough rearward pressure, that's when I'll double.
Maybe this wouldn't happen if I had recoil management mastered, but I do not. There is rearward and forward motion.
I have to pin the trigger to the rear on an AR and ride the recoil. I can stage the trigger on my 9mm plastic fantastic for USPSA, but I don't think the two are analogous.
Pretty sure that press/break/freeze is bolt gun specific. Fir precision shooting with ATs, ARs the advice I’ve seen is pin the trigger to the rear through recoil, then reset the trigger.
I wrap my thumb for “dynamic shooting” and float my thumb for precision shooting.
