where did u find that weight kit??
where did u find that weight kit??
where did u find that weight kit??
It might be common knowledge but what type of lube and cleaning schedule are people using with their AT-Xs, particularly in dusty areas?
I really like G96 but even the lightest coat feels like glue near the end of a match. I have also experimented with Otis dry lube but it also didn't seem to stay slick for too long.
Thanks! Amazon had a hypodermic needle looking unit of it for a reasonable price.I have been using Sentry dry lube 'Tuf-Glide' for years with excellent results. Goes on wet, does not attract dust anywhere near as much as grease or normal oil.
I toss slip 2000 on mine. Sometimes I use rem oil. Sometimes I use red head grease on the bolt.It might be common knowledge but what type of lube and cleaning schedule are people using with their AT-Xs, particularly in dusty areas?
I really like G96 but even the lightest coat feels like glue near the end of a match. I have also experimented with Otis dry lube but it also didn't seem to stay slick for too long.
Thanks! Amazon had a hypodermic needle looking unit of it for a reasonable price.
Not sure what everyone else does but I wipe the bolt and bolt raceway (?) down with brake cleaner, soft brush and rag to get the mix of dust, grease, carbon, and what not out before re-lubing. That's usually every 100 rounds or so.
Thanks for the feedback! Always interested to hear what other people are doing and what works for them.In Australia we have all kinds of issues depending on the season (like most places), it gets very dusty in our area during warmer months, the fine grit that clogs triggers and messes with magazines followed by mud in winter and everything else in between. I generally try to keep action fairly dry by avoiding oil and grease, opting more for dry lubricants to avoid gumming up sensitive areas and pulling crap into the action.
Bolt guns get the same treatment:
Wipe down the entire action inside
Pull the barrel and top NV cover at times to get into the barrel locking threads from the front end also as required
Clean the chamber area of fine debris
Clean out the bolt stop raceway on both the bolt body and action insides
Bolt face, under extractor, ejector
Use tuf-glide on bolt stop raceway
Lube barrel prior to re-inseting
Rub tuf-glide onto bolt lugs, bolt body contact points, camming area of bolt handle, bolt stop, action area behind trigger sear etc.
Run bolt a handful of times to get lube into all the relevant areas
Then simply wipe dust and crap off as required down the track, before cleaning and doing it all over again periodically.
Nothing outrageous, I generally just wipe them down and use a silicone impregnated cloth, then wipe most of that off to get rid of the slippery sheen..
Thanks for the feedback! Always interested to hear what other people are doing and what works for them.
Very mundane question but what solvents and brushes are you are cleaning the various parts with, if any? I use brake kleen but I am wondering if that's too corrosive.
You could also call AINA at 540.368.3108 and talk to a tech.Welllllllllllllllllllllllll crap.
My AT-X firing pin started going home on its own when I close the bolt. I suspect that the comp trigger is gummed up, so cleaning it will be my first course of action as soon as I get some time off.
I was right in the middle of recording myself (no homo) shooting a 10-round string at 650. I'm somewhat tempted to figure out what my problem is, and then create the video. I've got some internet searching to do for now though.
Round count is 422. Dry fire estimate is about 200. This rifle has seen zero rough field conditions, usually getting pulled out of the safe to shoot a few groups and then back again.
Half of my barrel cleaning was with the barrels removed.
Hopefully this is an easy fix and I get to share that easy fix for the next guy to find on his internet search.
You could also call AINA at 540.368.3108 and talk to a tech.
What year rifle?Welllllllllllllllllllllllll crap.
My AT-X firing pin started going home on its own when I close the bolt. I suspect that the comp trigger is gummed up, so cleaning it will be my first course of action as soon as I get some time off.
I was right in the middle of recording myself (no homo) shooting a 10-round string at 650. I'm somewhat tempted to figure out what my problem is, and then create the video. I've got some internet searching to do for now though.
Round count is 422. Dry fire estimate is about 200. This rifle has seen zero rough field conditions, usually getting pulled out of the safe to shoot a few groups and then back again.
Half of my barrel cleaning was with the barrels removed.
Hopefully this is an easy fix and I get to share that easy fix for the next guy to find on his internet search.
What year rifle?
I haven’t looked in the box for mine recently but do they come with multiple springs? Think there was mention of issues with it being to light in the past.2023
I haven’t looked in the box for mine recently but do they come with multiple springs? Think there was mention of issues with it being to light in the past.
That is likely the case! Let us know how it works outYeah, there was an extra spring packaged. I think that it was the light one though and my "heavy" one is installed. It is actually too light for my numb fingers. More than one occasion I pulled through the wall just trying to register it.
I need about a 2lb trigger at it's lightest. Most of my stuff has a gorilla-like 3lb trigger.
I'm 90% hopeful this can be cured with a blast of (not even going to mention it) and then blown out by compressed air. I'll take the bolt apart too, but with the firing pin going home as I cock the action I'm pretty confident there is an interface problem at the trigger sear (or what I would call the sear...don't have a schematic in front of me).
^^^hmmm. I would think this would be something someone elae has ran into at this point with these atx. Kinda crazy
As someone mentioned a light trigger could be the culprit had the trigger been adjusted and if so do you know what pull weight it is at? Sorry if you mentioned it and I didn't catch it.2023
Typed your answer as you were typing your question man . I had never adjusted the trigger prior. I would guess it was somewhere around 1lb first stage (still is) and probably 6oz or less on the second stage. It is 13oz now on the second stage after about 1.5 rotations on the screw.As someone mentioned a light trigger could be the culprit had the trigger been adjusted and if so do you know what pull weight it is at?
If you make a video going over your issue and remedies like you mentioned it would be much appreciated!Typed your answer as you were typing your question man . I had never adjusted the trigger prior. I would guess it was somewhere around 1lb first stage (still is) and probably 6oz or less on the second stage. It is 13oz now on the second stage after about 1.5 rotations on the screw.
Frank did a podcast where he spoke with Scott (from AINA) who said it was extremely important to keep it clean of any lube, cleaning fluid, oils etc.There were several gripes about the comp triggers going down in either this thread (maybe around page 90), or one of the other AI threads.
An AI rep said that it was all but one time due to operator error in adjustment. I have found a couple similar issues with basic Google searches, but I still don't have the time to deep dive.
It isn't a first time for sure. I did find an Australian guy who had some issues and cleaned his out with brake cleaner on YouTube. He got ~900 rounds though in matches before he was getting light strikes 50% of the time. Mine has been babied.
My firing pin drops as you lock the bolt...similar to if you close the bolt while holding the trigger.
I've not messed with a thing, but I'm about to.
Frank did a podcast where he spoke with Scott (from AINA) who said it was extremely important to keep it clean of any lube, cleaning fluid, oils etc.
He said almost every single issue they've had was messed with by the owner or gummed up with cleaning product.
I'd imagine cleaning it out with brake cleaner, contact cleaner or lighter fluid regularly would be a good idea for comp trigger owners.
If given a chance to trade for the newer model but you would pay an additional $1500 would you?Mine in 6 Creed.
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NopeIf given a chance to trade for the newer model but you would pay an additional $1500 would you?
neither. Got mine just in the nic of time. After official shot show launch it was amazing how fast mile high sold out and f at-x gen3.Nope
Oh nice. I wish my gen 3 was black.Mine in 6 Creed.
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LOL, don't pay attention to what others say, who cares......I said I was keeping my atx in a different thread and someone said “its your funeral”. Im not sure what that means but I gotta say it is VERY frustrating.
They added lug engagement to the new actions the only thing that I could think of what he meant by it’s your funeral. But the at-x has a war proven legacy action that has been around for decades so you don’t have anything to worry about there.I said I was keeping my atx in a different thread and someone said “its your funeral”. Im not sure what that means but I gotta say it is VERY frustrating.
I said I was keeping my atx in a different thread and someone said “its your funeral”. Im not sure what that means but I gotta say it is VERY frustrating.
I don’t really care, but lets be honest everyone is gonna think the legacy atx is valued less now and in the future. I don’t care per se’ BUT im gonna have to keep it. AI “should” take a trade in for a new one BUT I know they won’t.LOL, don't pay attention to what others say, who cares.....
Good idea. Bet they wont lower the prices though!I hope to see a run of bolts soon. I'll grab 1 or 2 just to throw in the spare parts bin
Yea I bought mine at $4250 and it would be a hard pill to swallow to fork out $6500 for the new style just so in the future I could potentially shoot 6.5 prc.I don’t really care, but lets be honest everyone is gonna think the legacy atx is valued less now and in the future. I don’t care per se’ BUT im gonna have to keep it. AI “should” take a trade in for a new one BUT I know they won’t.
At least I got mine for 4250$. Whatever ill keep it.
I don’t really care, but lets be honest everyone is gonna think the legacy atx is valued less now and in the future. I don’t care per se’ BUT im gonna have to keep it. AI “should” take a trade in for a new one BUT I know they won’t.
At least I got mine for 4250$. Whatever ill keep it.
$4250 is like, the cheapest recent AI!!! If I were you I’d be dancingI said I was keeping my atx in a different thread and someone said “its your funeral”. Im not sure what that means but I gotta say it is VERY frustrating.
I have a gen1, bought early 22 in elite sand. A discontinued color, in the oldest gen, prob the worst case depreciation scenario. Luckily I am into it, not much over your clearance price. New models will likely msrp over 6k. Maybe we can get 3500$ for our used rigs, but probably not as I couldn't sell mine on here for $3300 a year ago. I don't dislike my ai, I had to try the kool-aid, but I didn't turn into a cultist fanboi like a lot of AI shooters. Will just have to try and get some backup parts, cuz once it breaks and it cannot be repaired you have a $4k paperweight, that will piss you off every time you look at it.I don’t really care, but lets be honest everyone is gonna think the legacy atx is valued less now and in the future. I don’t care per se’ BUT im gonna have to keep it. AI “should” take a trade in for a new one BUT I know they won’t.
At least I got mine for 4250$. Whatever ill keep it.
Well, at least the scope I bought will hold its value!! These MOA Arkens are the shit!!!!$4250 is like, the cheapest recent AI!!! If I were you I’d be dancing
I mean, just wait 30yrs and profit like an AW!
I mean, by then all of the AW, AT,
& AX shooters will have died from all of the million catastrophic failures that AI’s are well known for.
It’ll be a seller’s market bruh!!!
Mile high will still support the action. Also ai will still be making the at action for quite some time for law enforcement purposes. So I would expect a couple decades or more before anyone has to even start to worry.Well, at least the scope I bought will hold its value!! These MOA Arkens are the shit!!!!
at least I have 600 yards on my own land to shoot. Ill just beat the shit out of it and use the fucker practicing.
Totally agree it was a bucket list item for me to.I paid $4,500 for my gen 3 ES AT-X. No way am I considering taking a loss to move it, and in no way do I consider the upgrades to the new ones worth the extra scratch.
I like my rifle, but I'm one and done with owning an AI. Great stuff, but not enough benefits *to me* to outweigh the drawbacks. YMMV.
It was something that I wanted for 20 years though, and I'm still tickled that I was able to get it.
It wasn't bucket list for me, but I read so much good, how great it is, super badass. I'd never handled one, finding a shop that sells them or an owner of one here in podunk Montana was next to impossible. So I just bought one, and it'll likely be my last, unless this new actjon has the bolt manipulation forces of my 3 lug archimedes. Then I might think about it. I do think the ATX chassis is a true winner, I have 3 aics atx chassis and shoot them a LOT. It's one the only chassis I've found that has no zero shift and a very secure vblock lockup without bedding it.Totally agree it was a bucket list item for me to.