Strasser RS 700: straight pull Remage-style barrel nut that uses R700 accessories (stocks, triggers)

I'm building my son a custom .308 for his college graduation this year and went with the Strasser 700 footprint left hand action. Manners stock, 20" barrel. It should be done in a few months when he graduates. We cannot wait. I may have to get one built for myself.
 
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I have a lefty RS700 as well. Starting with 18" Proof CF 308, 20-22" 6BRA, and 6.5 SST barrels. /going in a Q Sidechick milled for the lefty with a Huber 2 stage bottom safety trigger for mid range hunting, and either a Xylo or a Manners Nightstalker for other things.
 
Can you mount the barrel to the Strasser with out the barrel locking ring?
If the gunsmith is doing the threads tightening the more it is turn inside the action, like on the normal rifles?
Or is it must to mount with the barrel nut?
I do have a different barrels on my Tikka, that i change to my rifle, and what i am thinking is, that on Tikka, you have a thicker
barrel from the start of the chamber, than the barrel nut style action, so it is not as beefy from the action as it is in Tikka, does
it have any efect on accyracy and the barrel keeping the accuracy when shoot it hot, like 15-20 rounds in a short period of time?
 
Can you mount the barrel to the Strasser with out the barrel locking ring?
If the gunsmith is doing the threads tightening the more it is turn inside the action, like on the normal rifles?
Or is it must to mount with the barrel nut?
I do have a different barrels on my Tikka, that i change to my rifle, and what i am thinking is, that on Tikka, you have a thicker
barrel from the start of the chamber, than the barrel nut style action, so it is not as beefy from the action as it is in Tikka, does
it have any efect on accyracy and the barrel keeping the accuracy when shoot it hot, like 15-20 rounds in a short period of time?

A shouldered barrel is no problem at all.
 
How do you hold the receiver to tighten? Take off the scope rail and clamp around the receiver?
What kind of action wrench do you have? I don’t know of a rear entry wrench that would work given the lack of raceways. It’s not hard especially given there’s a port on both sides of the action… and if you’re using a clamshell style (don’t know what they’re called - “external?” like a cheap Wheeler) I’d leave the rail on. It’s steel and I can’t see hurting it.
 
What kind of action wrench do you have? I don’t know of a rear entry wrench that would work given the lack of raceways. It’s not hard especially given there’s a port on both sides of the action… and if you’re using a clamshell style (don’t know what they’re called - “external?” like a cheap Wheeler) I’d leave the rail on. It’s steel and I can’t see hurting it.
Do you have a RS700? Have you tried changing barrels on one?