Strasser RS 700: straight pull Remage-style barrel nut that uses R700 accessories (stocks, triggers)
- Thread starter carbonbased
- Start date
I have a lefty RS700 as well. Starting with 18" Proof CF 308, 20-22" 6BRA, and 6.5 SST barrels. /going in a Q Sidechick milled for the lefty with a Huber 2 stage bottom safety trigger for mid range hunting, and either a Xylo or a Manners Nightstalker for other things.
Can you mount the barrel to the Strasser with out the barrel locking ring?
If the gunsmith is doing the threads tightening the more it is turn inside the action, like on the normal rifles?
Or is it must to mount with the barrel nut?
I do have a different barrels on my Tikka, that i change to my rifle, and what i am thinking is, that on Tikka, you have a thicker
barrel from the start of the chamber, than the barrel nut style action, so it is not as beefy from the action as it is in Tikka, does
it have any efect on accyracy and the barrel keeping the accuracy when shoot it hot, like 15-20 rounds in a short period of time?
If the gunsmith is doing the threads tightening the more it is turn inside the action, like on the normal rifles?
Or is it must to mount with the barrel nut?
I do have a different barrels on my Tikka, that i change to my rifle, and what i am thinking is, that on Tikka, you have a thicker
barrel from the start of the chamber, than the barrel nut style action, so it is not as beefy from the action as it is in Tikka, does
it have any efect on accyracy and the barrel keeping the accuracy when shoot it hot, like 15-20 rounds in a short period of time?
How do you hold the receiver to tighten? Take off the scope rail and clamp around the receiver?
What kind of action wrench do you have? I don’t know of a rear entry wrench that would work given the lack of raceways. It’s not hard especially given there’s a port on both sides of the action… and if you’re using a clamshell style (don’t know what they’re called - “external?” like a cheap Wheeler) I’d leave the rail on. It’s steel and I can’t see hurting it.
Yes and yes. It’s super easy unless you’re trying to hit a specific torque value. (That I and many others don’t care about)
I would like to try the shouldered barrel, having in thicker from the action, and doing it a bit stiffer.
Or is it any stiffer than the barrel nut type of barrel?
But if use a burrel nut type of Remington barrel, i think what i have looked, you are not able to get it as thick as shouldered barrel.
I am having a Strasser RS 700 in this month, and it has a factory (Lothar Walther barrel) and i can say that these do shoot very well.
I did tested the new Lapua MaxRange Target 144gr pills last week, and it does shoot 0.22 MOA and 0.2 MOA with 4 shot´s, but the fifth
it did not hold on the same group, might be a shooter that did the pull, dont know, but what i look the the rifle, i would say that
it might do better with a shouldered barrel.
Will see when i get my rifle and Carbon X stock in to it.
Or is it any stiffer than the barrel nut type of barrel?
But if use a burrel nut type of Remington barrel, i think what i have looked, you are not able to get it as thick as shouldered barrel.
I am having a Strasser RS 700 in this month, and it has a factory (Lothar Walther barrel) and i can say that these do shoot very well.
I did tested the new Lapua MaxRange Target 144gr pills last week, and it does shoot 0.22 MOA and 0.2 MOA with 4 shot´s, but the fifth
it did not hold on the same group, might be a shooter that did the pull, dont know, but what i look the the rifle, i would say that
it might do better with a shouldered barrel.
Will see when i get my rifle and Carbon X stock in to it.
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