I have a Bergara B 14 R. I want one one that works. Has Bergara got the problem fixed ? I just laid mine back out of the way, been shooting other rifles. I just can’t get mine to work. I asked Bergara if they could make it run, but it’s been 3 months and no answer.
B14 R Bergara still buggy ?
- Thread starter gr8guns
- Start date
What's wrong with yours?
Mine runs like a Swiss clock and shoots tiny groups.
Mine runs like a Swiss clock and shoots tiny groups.
I had an early B14R with the bolt that had the square cut in it. A simple but stupid design oversight.
Mine cost me about $975.00 and ran perfectly. It also outshot my V22, both in my hands and
while at Lapua. I always thought that it was a good value for the $$. My only real complaint was the trigger.
It's a sealed unit that can't be worked on. I have seen guys add a 4-40 set screw as a sear adjuster but after
I opened up a trigger, it was painfully clear to me, that that was not only folly but downright dangerous.
The MIM parts have rounded edges. I installed a #6-32, long nose spring plunger to negate some of the
factory spring rate and act as a sear adjuster. That worked but, that produced other problems with the safety
spring and caused things to bind. The B14R should only be replaced in my not very humble opinion.
My V22 had a TT Diamond so I put a Jewel HVR in the B14R.
I hated creep in that HVR unit. My next trigger will probably be a Bix & Andy Tac Sport with interchangeable blades.
I will very likely get another steel barrel B14R.
Mine cost me about $975.00 and ran perfectly. It also outshot my V22, both in my hands and
while at Lapua. I always thought that it was a good value for the $$. My only real complaint was the trigger.
It's a sealed unit that can't be worked on. I have seen guys add a 4-40 set screw as a sear adjuster but after
I opened up a trigger, it was painfully clear to me, that that was not only folly but downright dangerous.
The MIM parts have rounded edges. I installed a #6-32, long nose spring plunger to negate some of the
factory spring rate and act as a sear adjuster. That worked but, that produced other problems with the safety
spring and caused things to bind. The B14R should only be replaced in my not very humble opinion.
My V22 had a TT Diamond so I put a Jewel HVR in the B14R.
I hated creep in that HVR unit. My next trigger will probably be a Bix & Andy Tac Sport with interchangeable blades.
I will very likely get another steel barrel B14R.
Attachments
Mine (2022 manufacture) has never been buggy. Thousands of rounds through it now, no issues at all in either a KRG Bravo or Aero Solus chassis. I was using Vudoo polymer mags for a while but switched back to Bergara mags since they seem to be more durable.
What's the square cut you're talking about? Curious if mine has it or not.
My rifle will put the empty cartridge in place to lock up the bolt. When trying to extract, the empty won’t properly eject. It is an early model. I would truly like one that works. Bergara should man up and replace the rifle. They won’t even communicate now.
I have a 2019 steel B14R with over 15,000 rounds through it. I am trying to understand your issue.
Are you saying the round doesn't eject and falls down in the breech? If so it needs a stiffer tensioner spring mod. I use butane lighter springs. They fit inside the OEM tensioner spring. Cut to same length as OEM and reinstall. Holds empty tighter to bolt face, allowing ejector to kick it out instead of falling off going over the mag feed lips. I have done this to numerous B14R bolts.
Another thing is check for ejector wiggle in the receiver, some do dome don't. Popular is staking the ejector, I just wedge a piece of plastic tywrap in the space behind the ejector, looking from the bottom of receiver.
Now all that said, just bought an new B14R SS Heavy barrel. Have put near 1,000 rounds though it in the past few days. None of the above mentioned mods needed. Ejector solid and tensioner holds empty tight against bolt face. This one made 2024.
If you have already done the tensioner and ejector mods, and still doesn't function to your satisfaction, I don't know what to say.
I personally know of over a dozen B14R rifles, and those that have had issue, I was able to rectify by the above mods.
Good Luck.
Pom, Im glad you asked. It forced me to search my files and fix them. From my file extension, I can see that
my rifle was 2020 or prior. If you disassemble your bolt, you will see a square cut like my 2020 or a revised round bottom cut. Square cuts should be avoided because they lead to Von Missis stress concentrations that lead to failure due to high stress in that sharp corner.
In the B14R design, when the bolt is withdrawal usually with some authority to eject the spent case, the large black
front section hits the bolt stop, but the rear handle section tends to continue because the human is still pulling on it. That energy gets transferred to the thin side of the square cut out, and into the sharp corner.
Bergara replaced the square with a proper radius at some point. Image #4 shows what I refer to as a Dog Bone.
Take note of its radii. It's a heat treated, high stress detail. #5 has small radii as it transitions from the large to small
diameter. Just for fun, I have included a sharp corner FEA. They are great tools to put the customer at ease since anyone can look at the pretty colors and get a feel for what's going on in the design.
Shawn
Attachments
Bergara has had failures at the sharp corner, and it is a very poor design practice. But my 2020
has never had any issue at all. She was a great rifle, or I wouldn't be looking at another one.
This FEA shows a proper radius to minimize corner stress. It's all a very pleasant blue and green.
Radii need not be large to avoid the Von Missis stress concentration.
Image #4 is my B14R in my MDT LSS Gen 2 chassis that my V22 normally lived in. I also installed the Trigger
tech Diamond. The cool but $$ chassis didn't help with accuracy at all. The TTD trigger is very nice.
Given the choice, I would really like an IBI, 22" Shnooble barrel like image #3. I like the swell at the muzzle.
If memory serves me correctly, image #2 shows the correct orientation of the internal bolt parts. The shim
spacer is already on the black section of the bolt. My rifle was factory stock with no mods. The ejector did have
some lash, ( wiggle ) of about .003 side to side and about .020" for and aft. If the case pulls the ejector rearward
at the moment of ejection, why would I care if it moves?
A B14R SS Heavy barrel action would also be expectable for $609.00
has never had any issue at all. She was a great rifle, or I wouldn't be looking at another one.
This FEA shows a proper radius to minimize corner stress. It's all a very pleasant blue and green.
Radii need not be large to avoid the Von Missis stress concentration.
Image #4 is my B14R in my MDT LSS Gen 2 chassis that my V22 normally lived in. I also installed the Trigger
tech Diamond. The cool but $$ chassis didn't help with accuracy at all. The TTD trigger is very nice.
Given the choice, I would really like an IBI, 22" Shnooble barrel like image #3. I like the swell at the muzzle.
If memory serves me correctly, image #2 shows the correct orientation of the internal bolt parts. The shim
spacer is already on the black section of the bolt. My rifle was factory stock with no mods. The ejector did have
some lash, ( wiggle ) of about .003 side to side and about .020" for and aft. If the case pulls the ejector rearward
at the moment of ejection, why would I care if it moves?
A B14R SS Heavy barrel action would also be expectable for $609.00
Attachments
Last edited:
The ejector is loose. I will give the lighter spring a try . Also the zip tie. I really hate getting a punch and hammering .
Don't just use the lighter spring, it goes inside the OEM spring, double spring. This has corrected many that didn't hold the case tightly enough to the bolt to allow ejection.
I also use an elastic band on the bolt handle to the front comb post. This primarily to prevent the bolt moving forward during transitions in matches.Thus causing jams or ejection of loaded rounds when pulled back. With enough band tension, I just lift the handle and let the band pressure eject. I don't even have my hand on the bolt after total lift. Ejection is positive with cases throwing a couple feet out and forward at the 1 o,clock. The band material I use is 1/8" elastic cord from Walmart, in the sewing section. I know others have used rubber bands and 1/4" flat elastic. I make a small loop on each end using a surgeons knot and one overhand knot in the middle to go over bolt handle. Trial and error on the cut length, but I think it's around 8" before knots.
Again, use the butane lighter spring inside the OEM tension spring, both springs.
The tensioner is the hook on the left side of the bolt looking back to front. IMPORTANT: Remove pin from the TOP of the bolt, the round surfaceas the hole is tapered. Be careful with the pin once removed and insert the small end first. Using a Q tip shaft (or something of similar size) to help align the hole and tensioner on reassembly helps. Don't force the pin back in, it will "fall" into place when properly aligned. Some bolts allow the pin to protrude the top of the bolt, make sure pin is recessed both sides so no drag in receiver. Newer bolts have a stop shoulder on the top prevent protusion.
And again, good luck!
Well I'll be darned, just checked mine and the bolt stop sure does impact on the bolt nose. I hadn't thought about it before and just assumed it would hit the locking lug instead. Still need to disassemble my bolt to see if it's properly radiused but at this point after thousands of rounds it's probably fine.
Only mod I’ve done to mine was just a switch of existing parts.
There are 3 springs roughly the same size but of different size wire and therefore different strengths.
The strongest is at my extractor hook (nearest the ejection port), the mid strength one is at the tensioner (opposite the ejection port), and finally the lightest is the firing pin return spring.
Since making this change I’ve had zero functional issues in over 10k rounds.
Mine was made in 2019, and currently rests in Berg’s own BMP chassis.
What is all of this talk about the B14R being “Perfect”?
Is the extraction still an issue on many of them?
Is the bolt still extraordinarily difficult to close?
Are models still experiencing severe galling on the bolt and lug abutments?
Because the rifle I received in 2021 was so bad on all accounts that I sent it back to Bergara.
They sent me a brand new barreled action.
I was a frustrated with it that I sold the damn thing. It sucked, period.
I do not understand why people are talking them up.
Is the extraction still an issue on many of them?
Is the bolt still extraordinarily difficult to close?
Are models still experiencing severe galling on the bolt and lug abutments?
Because the rifle I received in 2021 was so bad on all accounts that I sent it back to Bergara.
They sent me a brand new barreled action.
I was a frustrated with it that I sold the damn thing. It sucked, period.
I do not understand why people are talking them up.
Extraction has never been an issue on mine. Last match I shot, a couple Vudoo guys had bad ejection issues. Neither of the Bergaras on the line did.
The bolt has never been difficult, let alone extraordinarily difficult, to close. It feels different than many other guns, but different isn't inherently bad.
Mine doesn't have any galling on the lugs. Recently that seems to be more of a RimX problem.
Why wouldn't I talk mine up, when it's been a fantastic gun for less than a third of what Vudoos go for? Sorry you had a bad experience, similar issues are why I'm not a CZ 457 fan even though most people seem to love them.
Yup, the ones that feed through an opening and lock in place, also called Cable Zip Ties.
Try calling them 877 892 7544 (8:30 - 4:00 but closed at lunch 12:00-12:45 - Eastern Time Zone).. I had similar issue, gave them a call, they sent me new extractor/holder/springs/pins to replace at no charge. There are some video's on replacing the parts if you need help. I've only been able to shoot a couple boxes of ammo since changing the parts, but zero malfunctions so far. The Customer Service lady I spoke with was very nice and supportive.
Well, the little dimples worked wonders as far as not getting the case behind the feed lips. Now, I need to get it to throw the empties with a little force. I will call them about the parts. I did have a misfeed with a green tag cartridge. It seems I will have to tune the magazine. I have a couple of more mags to try. The magazine fits very loosely into the well, with a lot of side to side motion. I just took and pulled up my big boy shorts, and got a punch and a hammer and staked that ejector.
I bought my B14 from a buddy. It’s been nothing but flawless. I’ve had it in an MPA chassis and it ran flawless. I’ve since gone back to the original stock. Still runs flawless.
I have 2 b14r's, and have had some of the same issues. For the light strikes on eley ammo, I put shims in the bolt to decrease headspace for the thinner eley rims. This solved the light strikes, and eliminated the occasional failure to extract of spent eley cases. A side benefit was slightly better accuracy with sk ammo. My first rifle had perfect ejection for the first 10,000 rounds, then started to act up. After comparing the 2 bolts, I found the old bolt was not firmly holding the case head, allowing the empty to be knocked loose by the next round in the magazine. There were 2 reasons. First, the channel that the tensioner claw sits in on the left side of the bolt, was 2 thousandths of an inch shallower than on the new bolt, thereby preventing the claw from fully engaging the rim. A light stoning of the underside of the claw solved that. Second, the tensioner spring was now too weak, so I put a small lead shot under the spring. Ignition, extraction, and ejection have been perfect for more thousands of rounds. My second rifle needed the ejector staked to fix weak ejection. Both are great rifles and are running 100% now and well worth the price.
Eley ammo was trash in my B14. Same issue with what may have been light primer strikes. But I’ve had not one issue with SK ammo. I even had an older post showing more than half a box of eley FTF. The rims were dimpled as much as my SK rims.
Never again will I use Eley in my B14. The SK is accurate out of my B14 so I’ll continue to use it.
Bergara B 14 R failure to fire (light firing pin strike?)
I have had my new Bergara B14R out to the range on two different days. Each day I have had 2 or 3 failures to fire in each box of 22 ammo. I have been drawing on my stash of Standard Plus. I love every other aspect of the rifle. If I rechamber the rounds, sometimes they will fire on the...
www.snipershide.com
Last edited:
The rumors of issues has kept me from getting one. Really like their offerings but want a reliable and accurate .308 or 6.5 creed. Mainly looking to start dipping my toes into NRL hunter on the factory class. Figured Bergara would be my best bang for the money with what I want since now one makes what I want.
No they are not better. Buddy just sent his back. Sloppy extractor groove leaves empty in the chamber. He spent $1700, told the LGS send it back. He is a very good customer of theirs though.
Has the stiff bolt close an issue or hit or miss? I had one of the originals and it played a part in why I sold it
The newer ones are supposed to be better. I have the older 18” model and a new 20” heavy I haven’t tested yet
I smoothed out the area in the video below. Mine had chatter marks and an obvious hard close. I used some sandpaper followed by some flitz. Took me about 5 minutes to pull apart, shine to a mirror finish and put back together. World of difference. The two stage cocking feel it had is a ton better and overall it’s much smoother entirely. Well worth the effort
I staked my ejector in my first B14R. It solved 80% of the dropped casings. On my next days off I’m pulling the extractor on the left side (weaker of the two by design) and dropping a 9/64 detent ball I have left over from modifying savage extractors in there. If it will fit that is.
That should solve the extractor issue completely based on recent reports. I’ll pull my 20” heavy bolt extractor and do the same
I have had my b-14r for 2yrs and it’s run flawlessly for thousands of rounds of SK, Wolf, and some Eley and shoots bug holes. My first PRS match with it a buddy who had one of the early models said after our first stage “can I run your bolt a couple cycles?” and noted it was much smoother than his even though my rifle wasn’t broken in yet and his had 5k rounds on it. I guess Bergara has been iterating which is a good thing. My b-14r Heavy shipped yesterday so I’ll have another data point soon, I hope it runs as well as my current rifle!
My 2024 built rifle is flawless needed nothing done to run as expected without mods, whereas my 2019 built benefited from a few. The most important mod in my opinion is the stronger tensioner spring with the older models. I still believe they all need 500 rounds through them to smooth up and after 1,000 the groups definitely shrink.
Both of mine will group exceptionally well at 50 yds with preferred ammo, .250" or less, best running .100's with good conditions. my 2019 is an 18" steel complete rifle and the 2024 is the newer 20" barreled action. Best 5 shot group ever with the 18" was .087" at 50 yds, the 20" hasn't had really good conditions yet, but measured .163" at about 750 rounds.
Last go round with the 20" was 7 consecutive 5 shot groups with 2 blind lots of Center X that averaged .245" in windy conditions over the chrono. Same day produced 3 100 yd 5 shot groups with 3 different ammo types and brands that all shot under 1 inch with composite average of .545", none over .650". 20" is just 2 months old now, pushing 2,000 rounds, the 18" is over 5 years old and has around 20,000 rounds.
Both of mine will group exceptionally well at 50 yds with preferred ammo, .250" or less, best running .100's with good conditions. my 2019 is an 18" steel complete rifle and the 2024 is the newer 20" barreled action. Best 5 shot group ever with the 18" was .087" at 50 yds, the 20" hasn't had really good conditions yet, but measured .163" at about 750 rounds.
Last go round with the 20" was 7 consecutive 5 shot groups with 2 blind lots of Center X that averaged .245" in windy conditions over the chrono. Same day produced 3 100 yd 5 shot groups with 3 different ammo types and brands that all shot under 1 inch with composite average of .545", none over .650". 20" is just 2 months old now, pushing 2,000 rounds, the 18" is over 5 years old and has around 20,000 rounds.
Here is a complilation of some of the mods for the B14R I and others have posted in numerous threads.
I follow all B14R threads as I have an original built in 2019 and a Heavy built in 2024. I believe the hiccup you are having is related to bolt face/fired case tension. Many of the earlier actions do't/didn't hold the fired case tight enough to the bolt face, allowing the case to drop a bit lower and hit the top of the magazine thereby dislodging the fired case causing jams.
Many people blamed the wiggle in the ejector as the problem and decided that staking was the fix. Others have decided that the tension on the bolt face is the culprit, but not many posts about this. I don't stake ejectors, I wedge a piece of plastic in the space behind the ejector on those that wiggle, my choice. It ejector ever needs needs to be removed for whatever reason, easy to do.
What I do to improve bolt face/case tension is simple and easy. Looking at the bolt from the top down handle to the rear, I tap out the roll pin on the left side from the top down. This step is important as the hole is tapered. I remove the tension lever and then the spring. Using a spring from a disposable butane lighter, I then insert that spring inside the original spring and cut to the same length. Reinstall the tension lever and the roll pin. I use a tooth pick or a straightened paper clip to align the lever hole and the pin in the bolt body, really helps to get things lined up. Some pins can start with your finger upon reassembly, others need to be tapped in with a punch. Make sure the roll pin is inserted with the same end up as it is now tapered from original insertion into the tapered hole. Inspect the top of the bolt hole area that the pin goes through insuring the pin is below flush with the hole or slightly below. Any protrusion will prevent the bolt from entering the receiver.
Once this is complete check that the empty case slides freely under the tension lever by hand and notice the improved tension to remove case out towards the right.
Install bolt in receiver, place an empty case in a magazine and install in rifle. While looking in the ejection port, slowly close the bolt watching the empty case slide up into the bolt face. It needs to rise completely to the top of the cutout. If it does all is well, if not there is too much spring tension and will require the butane secondary spring to be removed and cut down one coil.
I have found this eliminates the hiccups of failed ejection. I have modified numerous bolts this way for myself and friends at the range. All noticed improved empty case distance upon ejection, and none have had a hiccup since.
Most of us use an elastic cord "rubber band" on the bolt handle to comb pillar due to bolt movement during NRL PRS transistions, this keeps the bolt back prevents forward movement. When using a band, ejection is completed by the band flawlessly.
Now all this said, I have read where one person used a 3mm ball bearing under the tension lever, same idea, increase tension to hold the case firm.
My 2024 action required no mods whatsoever. Bergara has improved this action since introduction on a continuing basis, the forward bolt part in many ways. The tension lever is slightly different under the hook, the spring appears stronger, and the hole the tension and extractor pins go in are now counter bored so can't protrude above bolt body, to name a few.
I have heard Bergara will send out new tension and extractor levers with springs and pins if requested. The double spring method I use is quick, relatively easy, cheap and no time waiting for parts.
I have posted all this previously in many threads, but here it is. I hate to see someone with a B14R with issues, they are a great rifle. Yes I have read the horror stories, but crap does happen at times.
Try this spring mod and let me know if things don't improve. I would be happy to do it for you if you were close by.
I follow all B14R threads as I have an original built in 2019 and a Heavy built in 2024. I believe the hiccup you are having is related to bolt face/fired case tension. Many of the earlier actions do't/didn't hold the fired case tight enough to the bolt face, allowing the case to drop a bit lower and hit the top of the magazine thereby dislodging the fired case causing jams.
Many people blamed the wiggle in the ejector as the problem and decided that staking was the fix. Others have decided that the tension on the bolt face is the culprit, but not many posts about this. I don't stake ejectors, I wedge a piece of plastic in the space behind the ejector on those that wiggle, my choice. It ejector ever needs needs to be removed for whatever reason, easy to do.
What I do to improve bolt face/case tension is simple and easy. Looking at the bolt from the top down handle to the rear, I tap out the roll pin on the left side from the top down. This step is important as the hole is tapered. I remove the tension lever and then the spring. Using a spring from a disposable butane lighter, I then insert that spring inside the original spring and cut to the same length. Reinstall the tension lever and the roll pin. I use a tooth pick or a straightened paper clip to align the lever hole and the pin in the bolt body, really helps to get things lined up. Some pins can start with your finger upon reassembly, others need to be tapped in with a punch. Make sure the roll pin is inserted with the same end up as it is now tapered from original insertion into the tapered hole. Inspect the top of the bolt hole area that the pin goes through insuring the pin is below flush with the hole or slightly below. Any protrusion will prevent the bolt from entering the receiver.
Once this is complete check that the empty case slides freely under the tension lever by hand and notice the improved tension to remove case out towards the right.
Install bolt in receiver, place an empty case in a magazine and install in rifle. While looking in the ejection port, slowly close the bolt watching the empty case slide up into the bolt face. It needs to rise completely to the top of the cutout. If it does all is well, if not there is too much spring tension and will require the butane secondary spring to be removed and cut down one coil.
I have found this eliminates the hiccups of failed ejection. I have modified numerous bolts this way for myself and friends at the range. All noticed improved empty case distance upon ejection, and none have had a hiccup since.
Most of us use an elastic cord "rubber band" on the bolt handle to comb pillar due to bolt movement during NRL PRS transistions, this keeps the bolt back prevents forward movement. When using a band, ejection is completed by the band flawlessly.
Now all this said, I have read where one person used a 3mm ball bearing under the tension lever, same idea, increase tension to hold the case firm.
My 2024 action required no mods whatsoever. Bergara has improved this action since introduction on a continuing basis, the forward bolt part in many ways. The tension lever is slightly different under the hook, the spring appears stronger, and the hole the tension and extractor pins go in are now counter bored so can't protrude above bolt body, to name a few.
I have heard Bergara will send out new tension and extractor levers with springs and pins if requested. The double spring method I use is quick, relatively easy, cheap and no time waiting for parts.
I have posted all this previously in many threads, but here it is. I hate to see someone with a B14R with issues, they are a great rifle. Yes I have read the horror stories, but crap does happen at times.
Try this spring mod and let me know if things don't improve. I would be happy to do it for you if you were close by.
