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Yea , but Looking to trade if possible ? If not I will go that route .
Just be aware that there are two different types of forends for A1 rifles. One uses a key on top of the rail to line things up between the receiver and the forend and prevent the forend from rotating. The latest style does not have a key on top of the rail or Chassis.
Anyone running an angled fore grip for shooting offhand? I'd like opinions on weather the back half of the rail channel could be dremeled off to slide it back closer to the balance point of the rifle like the pic below. Personally I'd like to get it back even further.
No one else using an angled fore grip for shooting offhand? Anyway I was thinking a rail extension with a 1/2 inch rise would get me back closer to the balance point and be just enough to clear the rise between the end of the rail and the polymer skin. Thoughts? Anyone have a rail extension they could try to confirm that it will clear the bottom of the polymer skin? Thanks!
I have a Mapgul AFG on mine, but I never thought of using a riser to clear the skin. I'll try that tonight. 
I have a Mapgul AFG on mine, but I never thought of using a riser to clear the skin. I'll try that tonight.
Sweet! Let me know how it goes.
Does anyone see an advantage running 338 Lapua longer than the factory 26"
I have a ton of Retumbo and 300 scenars/Lapua brass
I do not care about portability or weight, because I run a 22.5" SAC from Mark for mountain hunting out to 1000 or so and it has worked great as a compromise @ just under 2600 fps muzzle.
Looking to do some 1 mile plus steel for fun, so would a 28-30" be helpful?
Any input greatly appreciated before I spend the coin
I have a ton of Retumbo and 300 scenars/Lapua brass
I do not care about portability or weight, because I run a 22.5" SAC from Mark for mountain hunting out to 1000 or so and it has worked great as a compromise @ just under 2600 fps muzzle.
Looking to do some 1 mile plus steel for fun, so would a 28-30" be helpful?
Any input greatly appreciated before I spend the coin
Pictured below is my TS Customs 338LM. 30" length. I absolutely see a performance benefit, most especially when I approach a mile. I run Hornady 285's at 2875fps and is the most forgiving 338 I've ever worked with. We've sold a bunch of these long 338 barrels, and so far everyone has commented that they will have a hard time going back to anything else. I'd love to get you setup with one! Give a call anytime.
Of course it will be helpful, how much depends on your load. I run 300 scenars at 2835 in my DTA 26" using H1000 and lapua brass.
Where were the entry and exit wounds, just out of curiosity?
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nice! I love my DTA for hunting
Here you go:
Looks awesome but how does the AFG feel in comparison to where you had it mounted before? Also what rail extension did you use? Man I love the all black SRS! Thanks!
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DTA - 1, Stag - 0.
Never thought I would say my DTA was light to carry, but after butchering this guy, taking the head mount and hide I didn't even notice carrying the DTA.
Looks like it was shot right in the shit bag!
The 26" barrel is good to a mile easy with 250s or 300s. Personally I've been taking mine further than a mile but it's a struggle, so I've got a 34" barrel in the works with an improved shoulder with the hopes of getting 300s up to 3100fps for shooting to about 2400m.
The SRS is definitely easier to support, as expected. I can now solidly tuck my left elbow into my chest and hold the gun level.
I used this extension: Amazon.com : TufForce MT-1R7E13L 1/2" High Extension Riser Mount for your dot sight and scope : Sporting Optic Mounts : Sports & Outdoors
so with that 8'' more barrel it gives accurate 600meters more?
Thanks for the info, just what I have been looking for.
Thanks for the info! I soon hope to be hunting in the trees so I'm trying to set this up to to be able to shoot quick at short range. I've got a RDS mounted on the scope at a 45 and the next step was to improve the offhand shooting position which I think this will do. Time to go place on order!
No, it's a combination of a longer barrel and improved chamber (40 degree shoulder) which gives it more powder capacity and therefore more velocity.
ETA: granted it's not going to stay supersonic significantly longer, but the Scenars transition well so I've found I can still accurately shoot beyond the trans-sonic envelope a ways. The .338LM Imp with long barrel will push the 300s faster and therefore further than before. Beyond that I would move up to .375CT, but I'm not planning to get an HTI until I move back to the States.
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I just posted some feedback on our AMR reticle usage here.
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...chs-amr-reticle-results-big-game-hunting.html
or here
? View topic - AMR reticle and hunting Red Stags
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...chs-amr-reticle-results-big-game-hunting.html
or here
? View topic - AMR reticle and hunting Red Stags
thats a kahles? ya?
yes, Kahles K6-24I
Good lord Orkan! With the amount of money you have in all of the hard goods there you might be able to help ol uncle Obama eat something better than the turd salad he has been serving us. Then again on second hand.....
It is good to be you.
It is good to be you.
I have my fun.
... and I won't be helping obummer with anything, unless he wants to impeach himself.
The skins can be purchased separately as can the new buttpad apparently. However, if your Gen 1 is an early model like mine (serial # <1000) you'll have to send the receiver in to get milled into the A1 configuration, otherwise the new skins and buttpad won't fit. That said, it's not a bad idea because that'll make the monopod available too
The only reason I haven't done this yet is that my rifle is rarely in the States long enough to get that work done.
ETA: Some of the Gen 1s that were made right before the Gen 2s included some, if not all, of the Gen 2 cuts. A way to check this is to pop the skins off and look at the bottom rear of the receiver. If you see the big circular pit for the monopod, then you may be good to go. Mine's just flush all the way...
The only reason I haven't done this yet is that my rifle is rarely in the States long enough to get that work done.
ETA: Some of the Gen 1s that were made right before the Gen 2s included some, if not all, of the Gen 2 cuts. A way to check this is to pop the skins off and look at the bottom rear of the receiver. If you see the big circular pit for the monopod, then you may be good to go. Mine's just flush all the way...
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Looks like I may need to pop the skins off mine to see if it will actually work or not then. My serial number is >1000 so maybe I may get lucky! With some of the stories I've read about the Customer Service I would be scared to death to send my rifle in!! I won't even adjust the trigger (other than length of pull) for fears of screwing something up that may need factory attention.
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Well, I've almost got my SRS A1 set up but I have a couple of questions for those with more experience:
How much taper?
According to DTA's website:
How do I determine which taper to get in my scope mount?
Take your scopes total elevation travel and divide it by two. You will want the taper that is just under the result (example: 70 MOA/2 = 35 so the best choice is 30 MOA taper)
40 MOA taper (ideal for scopes with 80+ MOA of elevation adjustment, needed to shoot to 2000+ yards)
30 MOA taper (ideal for scopes with 65 - 75 MOA of elevation adjustment, needed to shoot to 1500+ yards)
20 MOA taper (ideal for scopes with less than 65 MOA of elevation adjustment, needed to shoot to 1000+ yards)
The scope I am getting will be a Steiner 5-25x56 with 26 mils of elevation adjustment. This means (26*3.5(to convert to moa))/2 = about 45 MOA
In your experience is 40 MOA too much taper for any reason? I do plan on shooting LONG range but can a 40 moa taper become problematic?
Also, will a DTA SRS scope mount give enough clearance for the 56mm objective of the Steiner scope?
Thank you.
How much taper?
According to DTA's website:
How do I determine which taper to get in my scope mount?
Take your scopes total elevation travel and divide it by two. You will want the taper that is just under the result (example: 70 MOA/2 = 35 so the best choice is 30 MOA taper)
40 MOA taper (ideal for scopes with 80+ MOA of elevation adjustment, needed to shoot to 2000+ yards)
30 MOA taper (ideal for scopes with 65 - 75 MOA of elevation adjustment, needed to shoot to 1500+ yards)
20 MOA taper (ideal for scopes with less than 65 MOA of elevation adjustment, needed to shoot to 1000+ yards)
The scope I am getting will be a Steiner 5-25x56 with 26 mils of elevation adjustment. This means (26*3.5(to convert to moa))/2 = about 45 MOA
In your experience is 40 MOA too much taper for any reason? I do plan on shooting LONG range but can a 40 moa taper become problematic?
Also, will a DTA SRS scope mount give enough clearance for the 56mm objective of the Steiner scope?
Thank you.
After only 3 weeks at Desert Tech, got my SRS A1 back yesterday as she looks brand new. Don took care of me and besides fixing a barrel swap issue also installed TABC BA muzzle brakes on my three barrels for only $200. Great price for excellent service. Thanks DT.
have a that steiner on my a1 and started with the dta hti 40 moa mount and my mechanical zero was out to 600 to 700 meters, so if thats what your looking for. i changed it to 30 moa and it dam near zeroed it self on the screws at 300 meters.
Same here (40moa HTI mount), no problems zeroing all 3 conversions @100 yard. I get all 26 mils up.
I would think the Steiner would be the same.
Does your guys bolt head jiggle? I have maybe an eigth of an inch play between the bolt head and bolt. Is this a floating bolt design? Just curious
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Eh, I don't think there should be any play in the bolt head on the Gen2 bolts. Double-check that he pin is seated all the way and flush on the side. Obviously the Gen 1 bolts don't have this issue, but of the Gen 2 bolts I have, all are quite solid, even when worn and disassembled from time to time.
Time for a little dta customer service rant! End of April I shot a local match and with the rain I had a damp 260 case and blew my first ever primer. The rest of the day the brass were not ejecting so I had to dig them out by hand when I got home a took the bolt completely apart and cleaned and put it back together and they barely ejected so I sent an email knowing I would not hear back until the next week. Would you believe the at 8:30am est I had a reply asking if I wanted to ship bolt or them mail the parts. Well I was confident I could put the new goodies on since I had it apart and back together already. I got an email the following Friday saying they had shipped and received them today. Put them in and the brass are flying out as they should!! Time to let the sounds of freedom be heard again here on the ridge.
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when I got home a took the bolt completely apart and cleaned and put it back together and they barely ejected so I sent an email knowing I would not hear back until the next week. Would you believe the at 8:30am est I had a reply asking if I wanted to ship bolt or them mail the parts. Well I was confident I could put the new goodies on since I had it apart and back together already. I got an email the following Friday saying they had shipped and received them today. Put them in and the brass are flying out as they should!! Time to let the sounds of freedom be heard again here on the ridge.Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Hmmm sounds like it's time for a customer service call
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Time for a little dta customer service rant! End of April I shot a local match and with the rain I had a damp 260 case and blew my first ever primer. The rest of the day the brass were not ejecting so I had to dig them out by hand
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Nice!
(Serious question not sarcastic) Why would it matter if your mechanical zero is at 600 or 300? You would be able to zero at 100 with both correct? From what I have read "they say" that scopes operate at their best both mechanically and optically at mechanical zero. Is this your reason?
Thanks for the reply.
Mine moves ever so slightly. But it shoots fine and I can't see how it is an issue so I'm going to keep shooting until it breaks then get a new bolt under warranty.
Question #1: Any chance that Nick can give us a progress update about the MDR?
Something to keep us happy while waiting?
Question #2: Can the .26 Nosler use the current magnum bolt in the SRS?
Something to keep us happy while waiting?
Question #2: Can the .26 Nosler use the current magnum bolt in the SRS?
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That's a good question. .26 Nosler has the same .532 rim like the .300WM, so I would suspect a conversion could be made with a .300WM bolt. It's a bit shorter as well, so there could be feed issues when using a magnum magazine.
Shoot the 6.5 SAUM you will have way better barrel life then the 26 Nosler
All the gen2 bolt heads have slight clearances but this does not natter as the DT HS off the bolt face. As DT stated my Gen1 don't as they are part of the bolt but both of my Gen2's have slight movement but present no issues after thousands of rds. If you feel you have excessive clearances DT is just a ph call away and they will get you squared away.
all good mr. burns !!
) didn't even come off sarcastic, wel then i'll be the first to shout when im wrong, cause ive only been shooting longer distances for a short time. but on my scope elev knob was bottomed out right from the box, and didn't slip the scales for zero stop as if i zerod it with 0 moa base and then set zero stop. like so on my other scopes, may be i should pull the stupid card out on myself, for doing it wrong. but thats what ive delt with........... i love the scope so much im looking for another. but if you have some info, id love to here it. no judging here!! bro im all ears all good mr. burns !!
I was just thinking out loud. I've only ever had 20 moa bases but thought I may need more for this new build. I don't know anymore than you and just want to make sure I get the right product. Maybe someone else can weigh in...
Here is a used Steiner on the hide: http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/optics-sale/250015-steiner-5-25-msr-reticle-$2325.html
Yea I hear they are polymer too , rail is Aluminum ....accy mounts are polymer
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