I'm almost sold on a LA FDE one...
- Thread starter southerngolfer
- Start date
My FDE with enclosed forend is now ordered. Just gotta send off my barrel to get chopped to 16.5”, snag some rings, and hit the range. I can’t wait to finish this handy little budget rifle.
Got mine today, had a couple questions and got a call from KRG and the guy was VERY helpful, ordered from Bison Tactical and they were very helpful and insane fast shipping. FN raining today so I'll have to play tomorrow. Spigot and Harris mount should be here Monday. Might paint the cheek piece and lop spacers to match the scope. 
I do something wicked to my Bravo next week 
I build a shootable rifle to my son.
Bought TAC A1 and will strip the chassis off, and use the barrelled action+that nice 2-stage trigger.
Bought TAC A1 and will strip the chassis off, and use the barrelled action+that nice 2-stage trigger
.Any new stuff for SHOT show?
Have any of you guys mounted an MLOK Arca rail to your Bravos? Just wondering if there's any flex or risk of pulling through the polymer forend without the use of all the mounting holes adjacent to the MLOK cut outs ala KRG Arca rail accessory. Currently have a Bravo on my Tikka but haven't mounted anything outside of a bipod on the front. Debating whether I should just run with the Bravo or take the wallet hit and jump up to a W3 for a Nucleus build.
Anyone have the weight of a 700 Bravo with the enclosed forend?
I should have mine later this week. I can weigh it for you.
Just received my KRG Bravo in FDE for my Bergara HMR Pro action/barrel. Very simple install follwoing the directions and it looks the business. I was a little bummed that the included MOE L2 rail was polymer since I'm using it for my Altas PSR Bipod. I guess I should have looked a little closer at the included parts list and asked the question. I would have ordered the metal one at the time, had I known.
The stock is solid and the ergo's for neutral grip are excellent. Can't wait to shoot it.
I know this has been discussed previously, but make sure you have the correct extended hex bit if you plan to torque the front action screw to spec. Luckily I have a large tool selection at home, so I had something already.
Hope to have some pictures to share some time this week
The stock is solid and the ergo's for neutral grip are excellent. Can't wait to shoot it.
I know this has been discussed previously, but make sure you have the correct extended hex bit if you plan to torque the front action screw to spec. Luckily I have a large tool selection at home, so I had something already.
Hope to have some pictures to share some time this week
Yes, I just placed an order for the metal L2 and the Hook Filler piece. I was also hoping to pick up the spigot filler, but they are out of stock and it doesn't look like any of the KRG online retailers carry this piece.
Here's a few pics of the wife's rifle fully built. Excited how it turned out, this Bravo chassis is an excellent value!
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It has arrived! Not sure what I think yet about doing FDE instead of black but it’s definitely different.
I wouldn't judge the overall look until you mount your barreled action and scope. Never can tell
My barreled action is at LRI right now getting some work done. As soon as I get it back, I’ll figure out what to do with it, if anything. I was thinking maybe even just painting the barreled action FDE. Either way, I was after some pretty bold contrast just for fun and there it is. Haha!
I've got the enclosed forend on my W3. I like it but taking the BA out of the chassis is a bitch.
I was going to add a black cheekpiece cover but that’s an idea too.
I'd buy your FDE cheek piece.
Bottom budget howa build. Barreled action and stock cost less than a new barrel for something else.
HMR Pro 6.5 with AMG MRAD in FDE stock. Might be looking for slightly taller rings as the scope is a little low for getting a stress free sight picture.
Im just curious, how much space do you have between the scope cap and the barrel?
~.100"
It pretty tight and I have try pretty hard to get down to get a clear view through the scope. I have a brand new pair PMR rings that are about .250" taller so they may be going on. I'll make that decision after the 1st range day.
20" SPS Tactical? If so, how does the balance feel?
Yes it's a 20" tac. It's a touch rear heavy, even with the spigot and Harris. But overall I really like the stock, best bang for the $ in my opinion. I'm working on a 6 creed with a 24" that will be identical and plan to go with a Bravo for that one later on. Here it is with the spigot and swivel Harris, it changed the feel and looks so much.
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Did you start with black and hydrodip?
Custom Gun Coatings did the paint work, I'm not sure what his exact process is. All I know is he does great work!
Nice rifle and paint, looks like the old german battleship break up camo. What contour on the barrel?
Thanks,
TM6
@J-Ham What do you mean by "getting an INVR to work"; doesn't it just bolt on? You have the latest version of the Bravo it appears; has the small step in front of the action. KRG told me it would work on the Bravo.
There's my SPS TAC ACC_SD in bravo (the gun in the top of the pic) ... I've been shooting it for about 2 months, about 400rds down range. Group average is 0.72 inches, which interestingly is worse than buddies sps tac aac-sd in stock stock, which I am shooting also. group average 0.64 inches. Using same ammo FGMM 7.62 175gr.
Main problem with bravo is stuff comes loose. Affecting shooting the "spigot" comes loose and the front action screw comes loose. Massoud says loctite. Eventually I will. But solution will also involve removing the spigot and replacing with PRI long base/rail for NV attachments that attaches directly to the action. If the Spigot isn't on there, it can't come loose!
As regards the action screw, none of my torque wrenches/bits will fit down in that hole, so I have to hand tighten a lot. I need to get a bit that will fit. The rear sling mount I did loctite and it has not come loose since I did.
@wigwamitus 0.72 vs 0.64 is still 3/4 moa; pretty solid for off the shelf barreled action.
I just ordered a Bravo and that was one of the first things I thought about in regards to the SPIGOT; potential of loosening up over time from recoil.
I just ordered a Bravo and that was one of the first things I thought about in regards to the SPIGOT; potential of loosening up over time from recoil.
There's my SPS TAC ACC_SD in bravo (the gun in the top of the pic) ... I've been shooting it for about 2 months, about 400rds down range. Group average is 0.72 inches, which interestingly is worse than buddies sps tac aac-sd in stock stock, which I am shooting also. group average 0.64 inches. Using same ammo FGMM 7.62 175gr.
Main problem with bravo is stuff comes loose. Affecting shooting the "spigot" comes loose and the front action screw comes loose. Massoud says loctite. Eventually I will. But solution will also involve removing the spigot and replacing with PRI long base/rail for NV attachments that attaches directly to the action. If the Spigot isn't on there, it can't come loose!
The rear sling mount I did loctite and it has not come loose since I did.
My spigot mount came loose 2 trips ago. I applied blue loctite and shot it this past weekend. After about 100rds, hasn’t come loose yet. Also, I bought the bit from KRG. It came out to I think $7 shipped. It’s nice seeing KRG doesn’t rip you off on shipping like a lot of other places
Not if you're running a spigot also. And I can't remember what the bottom of the backbone looks like up there... Without the spigot mount for the heads of your screws to shoulder up to, you might want/need to do some work there too.
Anyone having magazine seating issues and excessive movement with their LA Bravo? My CIP length MDT mag seems to have excessive front to rear "rocking" movement in the LA Bravo. I say rocking at it seems to pivot around a point.
The chassis also has excessive up/down movement of the magazine when the magazine is supposedly latch in. After the first round is cycled the mag drops down noticeably so that the action can't strip a round from it. Is there a way to adjust latch height?
I have an email out to KRG as well but figured I'd post here for possible quicker answers...
The chassis also has excessive up/down movement of the magazine when the magazine is supposedly latch in. After the first round is cycled the mag drops down noticeably so that the action can't strip a round from it. Is there a way to adjust latch height?
I have an email out to KRG as well but figured I'd post here for possible quicker answers...
Are you sure you have a CIP length mag? What is the outer dimension front to back? What action are you using? The LA chassis have two flange head screws on either side of the magwell to keep the mag from going too far up into the chassis/action. The mag height does not adjust, there is some adjustment in the magwell fit as noted in the instructions. You might try putting the mag spacer in there as you might have ended up with a non-CIP mag. If all else fails email us some pics and if possible a short vid.
Thank you,
Justin
300 PRC
Yes. MDT clearly marks it as 3.850 300WM.
I also had a 2nd Bravo LA still in the box. I took it out and noticed that the same mag fit well in it, no movement. So I moved my barreled action to my black chassis. had to adjust mag feed lips slightly, but now all it good there.
Going back to the FDE bravo, that had the issue. I followed the email recommendations on moving the forearm back every so slightly. Along with loosening the screw behind the action (on top of stock) and then tightening all down, the mag now fits it just as well.
Just wish I didn't have to modify the mag feed lips for the 300PRC to feed well with the Mausinfield. As from factory, there is just not quite enough angle+height out of the mag and the round gets stuck below action feed ramp. some slight bends and it feeds well now.
Sure do, I keep a glock 19 on my desk and sometimes a shotgun beside the desk.
