- Thread starter t8500shx
- Start date
If I remember correctly I torqued mine at 35-40 when replacing the barrel and have had no issues.
Is that inch lbs.??
No, that would be foot pounds, sorry for not stating that in the original response. Basically I couldn't find anything online so installed as I would an AR barrel nut. Everything went together fine, and hasn't given a bit of trouble. If you have go/no go gauges for 22LR you should use them.
This is what I did as well.
The RPRR headspace is set by the barrel shoulder and all adjustment is via machining on the bolt face. Per Ruger, that must be done at the factory. Mostly because Ruger won't share the specs for the adjustment.
That's good info to know. I assumed that it was set via the barrel shoulder but as I had the NoGO gauge thought it best to check it. Mine was replaced with one of the early Green Mountain and you just never know when something isn't just right.
Never a bad idea to check that all is meshing as intended. The unfortunate thing here is that there is little to do about it if it’s not right.
Ruger needs to be more forthcoming about their methods of adjustment.
It shouldn’t require a return to the factory to set headspace or to replace minor parts.
Did I read that correctly when researching IBI .22 barrels; the cost is as much or more than the entire RPRR22 retails for?Thought I would share my setup and range results with a new barrel . This is from range session # 2 with a new IBI drop in barrel ( still trying to find the best accuracy for money ammo). The ammo used for this target is Lapua centre X out at 55 yeards (50 meters here in oz).
Upgrades:
IBI flutted barrel. Original barrel was still inaccurate after 1000+ rounds and different ammo
3D printed bag rider.
3inch 3D printed forend rest.
MDT Grip.
Vector Optics Continental scope on a 0 moa rail.
Waiting to see if I can get access to a timney trigger ( hard to get and exy in Australia)
The rifle shoots, I just now need to get better at using it. Only started shooting a few months ago
Their prices are in CAD, so it's a little bit cheaper than the cost of the entire rifle.
Here in Oz the rifle retails about 850 to 950 AUD, the barrel depending on which version you get can get up there in price I.e
RUGER PRECISION RIMFIRE 22" NEW $549
RUGER PRECISION RIMFIRE 22" FLUTED NEW $690
So it's a decision, do you cut your losses, sell it , lose some money and get a more expensive option, or try and upgrade the rifle and get a better outcome
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Guys, do us all a favor, and submit a chassis request for the RPRR from Oryx.
An aluminum chassis is the last piece we need to make this a serious shooter.
oryxchassis.com
An aluminum chassis is the last piece we need to make this a serious shooter.
Oryx Oryx Product Request
Complete bolt action chassis system for under $400. Available for Savage, Howa, Tikka and more!
oryxchassis.com 
Absolutely. And done.Guys, do us all a favor, and submit a chassis request for the RPRR from Oryx.
An aluminum chassis is the last piece we need to make this a serious shooter.
Oryx Oryx Product Request
Complete bolt action chassis system for under $400. Available for Savage, Howa, Tikka and more!
Great idea! DoneGuys, do us all a favor, and submit a chassis request for the RPRR from Oryx.
An aluminum chassis is the last piece we need to make this a serious shooter.
Oryx Oryx Product Request
Complete bolt action chassis system for under $400. Available for Savage, Howa, Tikka and more!
Also done. This would be a much needed stock improvement.
The foil, bedding really helped,alot.
Also,put some on bottom,of,buttsock, extension,"rail".
That removed,that ,some flex as well.
Ordered a Timney trigger.
Next will be a Shaw barrel.
Unless there's a better option?
The foil, bedding really helped,alot.
Also,put some on bottom,of,buttsock, extension,"rail".
That removed,that ,some flex as well.
Ordered a Timney trigger.
Next will be a Shaw barrel.
Unless there's a better option?
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Guys, I also have a RPRF and have found it problematic to say the least. I have tape bedded it and replaced the barrel with a Green Mountain one. That is as far as I will spend on this gun. The SECRET to getting this gun to shoot for me has been a select lot of Eley Match ammo. With this ammo, and this ammo alone, the rifle shoots well FOR A RUGER PRECISION RF.
Why throw money (I have read: change the stock; change the trigger; change the barrel) at this gun and expect it to shoot like a Vudoo escapes me.
Why throw money (I have read: change the stock; change the trigger; change the barrel) at this gun and expect it to shoot like a Vudoo escapes me.
These are about as good of groups as I have been able to put together with my STOCK RPRR. These groups were at 50 yards with CCI Green Tag. I have to test standard velocity again, but last time I tried SV, it didnt shoot well. These groups were done at an outdoor range with roughly a 10-15mph wind too, so I am pretty sure I could tighten them up a little more with no wind. I also tried at 100 yards and my group of 10 rounds was about 5.5" low and maybe a 6" spread. That is obviously nowhere near MOA, but keep in mind, that 10-15mph wind probably moved those little .22 rounds quite a bit. I think this gun in stock format is OK for plinking, but my other 2 .22lr rifles shoot much better, at least at 50 yards.
Ive been pretty happy with my Shaw barrel. The factory trigger is fine enough for me.
CCI Green Tag was a huge disappointment to me as I had the same kind of results when testing various 22 LR ammo in my RPRR. I even retested it later with a different lot to see if it was an aberration, but got the same results. VERY disappointing given the price one pays for it. CCI SV's did MUCH better producing at least twice better results. Center-X is one that has had consistently the best results out of my RPRR.
I got the 20 inch barrel.
This is just my opinion, and I have nothing to back it up with, but I think a little longer barrel shoots better. And -my opinion again- a match chamber provides a better burn of the powder. Maybe because the bullet is jammed into the rifling? I know for certain that my velocities are higher. And I don't have a round count, but I would guess I've got a little less than 2,000 rounds through the barrel and with a certain lot of SK Rifle Match, I'm getting pretty consistent 1/4-3/8 inch groups at 50 yards. I still get the occasional flyer, but those are normally due to a velocity issue.
I shot blackpowder for years, both muzzleloaders and cartridge, and I find a lot of similarities between BP cartridge shooting and. 22rf.
I've got the SS barrel, but I would prefer the blued one for esthetic reasons only.
I live 20 minutes from Midway USA, and I pass it on my way to the range. I often order ammo on line and stop by to pick it up on my way to the range. Unfortunately, they won't dig through their inventory for lot numbers. With the Shaw barrel, you can tell the difference between lots.
I'd be interested in how your impressions on if you think the new trigger improved your shooting.
Good to know! I have kinda been focused on other firearms and this one has been sitting. I finally figured I would take it to the range and give it some love. I will have to test some SV again next time, but I recall it was not very good last time. I will have to pull up my spread sheet from the last time. I will do my best to keep everyone posted, but the green tag is acceptable for now, at least at 50, but still no where near what I would expect a precision rifle to be.
Though this isn't addressed to me, I'll respond that you might compare more than one viewpoint.
I have a Timney trigger that was given to me to beta test on my RPRR (also have a 20" Shaw SS barrel mounted). Before I installed the Timney trigger I had the factory trigger set up where I was getting 12-14 oz pull. I did that as I use this RPRR as a trainer for my .308 RPR which has the trigger set up the same, where it really does help in precision shooting. So, when I got the Timney trigger I ran it through the paces to see how it all operated and to report back to Timney. IMHO, it's a very good trigger with a very nice crisp break. Though difficult to get an actually measurement on, the Timney's trigger lock time seem a little quicker than the factory and the trigger didn't have much creep before it would break. So, it has a very nice feel to it and I feel it's a little better than the factory trigger . . . especially if one doesn't like the factory safety blade. But, having both triggers set with the same light pull, I really could find any difference in the performance on paper that I'd get. So, I guess it's just up to what one's preferences are as the factory trigger is a good performer and I'd rate the Timney trigger just slightly better. But, this is just one man's opinion.
I really like my RPRR. Primarily for nrl22. It is completely stock. I have smoothed the corner on the bolt to cycle more easily and the trigger is as light as it can get. So far I have eley club, eley edge, and federal gold medal match shooting sub moa groups.
the vertical spread is probably due to MV variation as well as jump. L-R may be wind.
i'd be interested in 10 shot or 20 shot groups; a five shot group can deceive you.... Will post pics of my next outing.
As others have said, I routinely get very good groups from my old 10-22 using CCI SV Target. I have read much of this thread to see whether I can get as good results from this bolt gun.
With regard to all who seek the Light,
Historian
Thank you. I appreciate your opinion.Though this isn't addressed to me, I'll respond that you might compare more than one viewpoint.
I have a Timney trigger that was given to me to beta test on my RPRR (also have a 20" Shaw SS barrel mounted). Before I installed the Timney trigger I had the factory trigger set up where I was getting 12-14 oz pull. I did that as I use this RPRR as a trainer for my .308 RPR which has the trigger set up the same, where it really does help in precision shooting. So, when I got the Timney trigger I ran it through the paces to see how it all operated and to report back to Timney. IMHO, it's a very good trigger with a very nice crisp break. Though difficult to get an actually measurement on, the Timney's trigger lock time seem a little quicker than the factory and the trigger didn't have much creep before it would break. So, it has a very nice feel to it and I feel it's a little better than the factory trigger . . . especially if one doesn't like the factory safety blade. But, having both triggers set with the same light pull, I really could find any difference in the performance on paper that I'd get. So, I guess it's just up to what one's preferences are as the factory trigger is a good performer and I'd rate the Timney trigger just slightly better. But, this is just one man's opinion.
I'm primarily a target shooter, and perhaps not as "trigger sensitive" as others. At $200+ for a new trigger, I think I'll spend my money on better quality ammo.
I've recently acquired a RPRF rifle. In reading through the mass of data here and on other sites I've decided to simply clean and shoot it first before making changes. I have made one exception to this rule, the magazine. Numerous people have reported problems with the supplied 15 shot magazine so I decided to set it aside and use 10 shot mags. Others have talked about reducing the spring tension on the magazine to reduce bullet deformation when chambering rounds.
I grabbed one of my 10 rounders and cycled a few rounds through the chamber. Sure enough there were scratches on the rounds. Now my inspection of the bolt looked decent so I figured I would modify a magazine by reducing the spring tension.
I painted a white line as indicated in the above picture before disassembly. Before tensioning the spring and reassembling the line on the hex lined up with the red line on the left. Instead of doing the 1 and 1/4 turns as suggested I decide to start as low as possible and see how things went. That simply meant turning the hex 90 degrees (1/4 turn) to the right which lined up the white line again.
This resulted in very light spring tension. With 10 rounds loaded in the magazine tension was light enough that you could hear the rounds rattle inside, unlike an unmodified magazine. Would there be enough tension to feed the rounds? I inserted the magazine and then cycled the bolt until the magazine was empty. I then checked the rounds and to my surprise there were no marks, none! I ran the same rounds through the magazine and the rifle several more times the magazine fed every single time with zero fails to feed. There was also no damage to any of the bullets.
Now I know this was a clean rifle and mag and that once I get it to the range things could change. But at this point I know that the magazine is exerting the least amount of pressure on the round preventing damage during chambering. If I do get any failures to feed in the future I can simply advance the hex one position to the right to add a little more tension or a simple cleaning may resolve the issue.
I'll update range results once I have them.
I grabbed one of my 10 rounders and cycled a few rounds through the chamber. Sure enough there were scratches on the rounds. Now my inspection of the bolt looked decent so I figured I would modify a magazine by reducing the spring tension.
I painted a white line as indicated in the above picture before disassembly. Before tensioning the spring and reassembling the line on the hex lined up with the red line on the left. Instead of doing the 1 and 1/4 turns as suggested I decide to start as low as possible and see how things went. That simply meant turning the hex 90 degrees (1/4 turn) to the right which lined up the white line again.
This resulted in very light spring tension. With 10 rounds loaded in the magazine tension was light enough that you could hear the rounds rattle inside, unlike an unmodified magazine. Would there be enough tension to feed the rounds? I inserted the magazine and then cycled the bolt until the magazine was empty. I then checked the rounds and to my surprise there were no marks, none! I ran the same rounds through the magazine and the rifle several more times the magazine fed every single time with zero fails to feed. There was also no damage to any of the bullets.
Now I know this was a clean rifle and mag and that once I get it to the range things could change. But at this point I know that the magazine is exerting the least amount of pressure on the round preventing damage during chambering. If I do get any failures to feed in the future I can simply advance the hex one position to the right to add a little more tension or a simple cleaning may resolve the issue.
I'll update range results once I have them.
I too followed the reduction regimen. I have mine at one full turn and have had no issues with marking or deformation. My son also likes them because they are much easier on his young fingers to load. I am going to lighten them a bit more since you haven't had problems and see what it's like. That ought to give some room to tighten and the springs get old.
I don't care for the Ruger BX mags. I don't like how the round get fed in from the side from the rotary system, so I went with the Butler Creek "Hot Lips" Mag. It's a straight feed design.
If your BX mags don't work well for you, you might give them a try.
If your BX mags don't work well for you, you might give them a try.
I purchased 2 of the Butler Creek "Hot Lips" mags and I'm having trouble with them feeding consistently. The problem is, there is a
loss of tension pushing the next round up into position to feed and at times the round that is in position is loose and doesn't feed properly. The mags are new and it's been around 50 degrees so I'm not sure if it's the temp or just that the mags are new causing the problems. I order the mags upon purchase of my RPRR due to all the complaints about the stock Ruger mags since I want to compete in the NRL this year and wanted mags that would feed consistently.
My question to anyone that uses these mags have you experienced the same type problems? I know they must be "rocked forward" so the bullet angles up to feed which isn't a problem but I need them to feed consistently.
Please don't take this a "knock" on Butler Creek! I'm just checking to see if anyone else has had a similar problem and has overcame it before I contact Butler Creek.
Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
loss of tension pushing the next round up into position to feed and at times the round that is in position is loose and doesn't feed properly. The mags are new and it's been around 50 degrees so I'm not sure if it's the temp or just that the mags are new causing the problems. I order the mags upon purchase of my RPRR due to all the complaints about the stock Ruger mags since I want to compete in the NRL this year and wanted mags that would feed consistently.
My question to anyone that uses these mags have you experienced the same type problems? I know they must be "rocked forward" so the bullet angles up to feed which isn't a problem but I need them to feed consistently.
Please don't take this a "knock" on Butler Creek! I'm just checking to see if anyone else has had a similar problem and has overcame it before I contact Butler Creek.
Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Does it feed if you load just one single round in the mag? I actually tune my mags for less tension as it alleviatesd hard feeding problems scarring the cases of my rounds. Spring tension is set on the 10/22 but counting the nut flats clockwise once the rotor engages against the inside of the feed lips. The standard is 8 flats, I set mine to 6.
I don't see any way to adjust the tension on the Hot Lips mags. The 15 round Ruger mag that came with the rifle feeds
flawlessly but the Hot Lips mags do not.
I'm at a loss as to why both mags don't work. I could understand one not working well, but both?
I had over 12,000 rounds through my 25 round mag and never had a problem when I had the factory barrel on my rifle. I put a Shaw barrel on and they didn't feed as well, maybe due to the lips on the mag being worn out.
I still use Butler Creek mags with my rifle as, at least on my rifle with the Shaw barrel, they feed better than the Ruger BMX mags.
I wish I had an answer as to why both will not feed properly. It seems the rollers are not working properly in the housing. I'm shooting again this weekend and hope to put around 500 rounds through them. I hope they just need to loosen up some with use. I've not given up on them, just hope they start feeding properly with more use.
I went with MDT vertical grip but I may have to try this guy too.
Video isn't exactly clear, can you explain what you are seeing an issue with?
Firing pin is not releasing on the third pull. It goes when the bolt moves. Seems to be the same issue as the rpr. https://ruger.com/dataProcess/rprSafety/index.php?r=y
If you think you have the same problem then follow the bulletin:
"If you believe your rifle is affected or are unsure if your rifle is affected, you can request a FREE replacement bolt shroud by visiting Ruger.com/RPRSafety. You will be asked to provide us with the serial number of your rifle and contact information so we can send you a replacement bolt shroud with installation instructions."
"If you believe your rifle is affected or are unsure if your rifle is affected, you can request a FREE replacement bolt shroud by visiting Ruger.com/RPRSafety. You will be asked to provide us with the serial number of your rifle and contact information so we can send you a replacement bolt shroud with installation instructions."
I too have issues with the trigger not working randomly. I have changed to the Timney trigger and having the same issues. I have also had issues (twice) where I chambered a round into the barrel and it went off without touching the trigger.
update on the extraction issues:
bent the left side spring/extractor. Fixed the issues. It extracted every shell. ......
New problem...... it won’t eject them all
I need to bend it back a little. It is holding the shells a little too tight. I am super excited though. If I can get it dialed in then this will be perfect for my boy.
he shot a 0.75-1.00 group yesterday right out of the gate from the prone with nasty wind.
Might actually invest in a better trigger now.
Has anyone had their bolt apart? If so, did the Firing pin look like it was whittled out of a Nail by an angry Beaver? Mine was so rough that I had to file the high spots flush just to ease my mind. Also the bolt itself was left with machining burrs in most of the grooves. Not a big deal to clean that up though. I will be looking for a third party Firing pin if one even exits. Also the E-clip on the trigger pin was missing. I don't mind tinkering with my rifles as I get acquainted with the internals and such.
So it’s been a few years how did the green mountain do with the barrel swap? What kind of groups at 100 yards
I moved on from the rpr to a 455. I could get 1" groups at 100 and in the .4 at 50. The rifle was to hold sensitive for me.
slight update:
Removed one of the springs in the trigger and got the pull down quite a ways. Still gritty and need to polish it but much better.
went out Saturday for a while. Wind stopped blowing for 30-45 minutes and had some lu
Bent the spring back and had some issues with extracting RWS match ammo and Geico Match (same company). Funny thing was I had a magazine of Winchester wildcat 333 round bulk stuff in a 15 round ruger mag and it shot the best and cycled the best.
Here is pictured 2 groups at 51 yards (lasered)
got out more ammo and cycled it just fine. Seems to hate cycling waxed bullets.
Still the bulk shocked the crap out of me.
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That is some great shooting. Is that typical accuracy for this rifle?
