Gunsmithing Carbon Baked in Barrel please help.

500? Something is amiss here.

I have used this in the past and the slip 2000 stuff. Your barrel may vary.

First, do no harm.

Step back, breathe, and walk away from the steel wool.

Spray/soak Kroil down the tube, set it level, and let it sit for a day or two. Then come back to it, brush some, and run some clean patches, until they come out pretty clean.

THEN, leave that goddamn bored-scope in the case.

Take the rifle to the range, and shoot it.

Only THEN will you know anything.

Yeah I agree, if you are going to break out the steel wool I would just install a new barrel at that point.

Stop. How does it shoot?

Leave it be unless it is causing a problem. Borescopes are causing more "problems" for people than anything. They have their place such as identifying a carbon ring and letting you see when it's clean.

What they said. But if it needs to come out I've recently found CLR to be amazing, while used with caution. There's a thread on here if you choose to investigate.

LakuNoc said:

I have 6 Creedmoor barrel that i did not do full clean for 500 rounds. Long story short i can not remove baked carbon in barrel.
Tried C4 not touching it will take days to get it done. JB paste and Croil with bronze brush seems like working the best but one part of barrel maybe 8 inches it dose not want to come off. Tried Whipeout nothing let it soak over night still nothing. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks
I do have hawkeye bore scope.
Friend suggested steel wool 0000 and Croil but not sure if is safe. That would be my last thing to try.

Click to expand...

Don't use steel wool.
JB and Kroil mix is great, I cannot see it being effective with a bronze brush though. You need to get some of the mix in the tube, then work it back and forth with the right size jag and patch. JB is an abrasive of sorts, what good would smearing it around on a brush do?
There is another abrasive I feel is more aggressive then JB, Witches Brew from Hollands shooting if you feel the need.
Not sure if this is relevant, but before I fire a new barrel, I run a 2-3 patches on a jag with a couple drops of Kroil to get any chambering oils out. Then make sure it is dry. Oil & heat in a barrel to me is a recipe for buildup.

Milo 2.5 said:

Oil & heat in a barrel to me is a recipe for buildup.

Click to expand...

I kinda don't agree with that idea, but it's yours, so we don't have to.

The temperatures in a rifle barrel don't allow for any of that "carmelization" I think you're talking about. It just turns to atoms, which get sucked out the end with the rest of combustion byproducts.

Anything left in a conventional CF rifle undergoing complete combustion is either metal, carbon, or something similarly durable.

CLR works wonders

natdscott said:

I kinda don't agree with that idea, but it's yours, so we don't have to.

The temperatures in a rifle barrel don't allow for any of that "carmelization" I think you're talking about. It just turns to atoms, which get sucked out the end with the rest of combustion byproducts.

Anything left in a conventional CF rifle undergoing complete combustion is either metal, carbon, or something similarly durable.

Click to expand...

I was thinking more on the lines oils give carbon something to adhere to, then throw some heat at it. I have owned a Hawkeye for 6+ yrs and have averaged 3 new chamberings a yr for 10 yrs.
I run my own experiments, and seem to have better luck all the way around if I clean a barrel slightly when new. No scientific proof, no data or record keeping on my end. Not all smiths use the same methods for chambering a barrel concerning cutting fluids. With my method, I set the bar, and judge performance of the barrel accordingly.
Right now I am shooting a new 25cal Krieger barrel that is the cleanest barrel I have ever owned, which in my history is not the norm.

Estes640 said:

CLR works wonders

Click to expand...

I know, I still refuse to use it though.

Milo 2.5 said:

I know, I still refuse to use it though.

Click to expand...

Stop refusing. Assimilate and try it. At least try it on a shitty old barrel or something.

Only thing to remember with CLR is to make sure you neautralize it with acetone or something afterwards. So I run a couple of soaked acetone patches down the barrel after I’m done playing with CLR. Then get back to hoppes #9

iceng said:

Stop refusing. Assimilate and try it. At least try it on a shitty old barrel or something.

Click to expand...

Why? Are you assuming my methods do not work?
I have deep sixed whole revolvers, MPX barrels in CLR in a sonic cleaner, I know it works. I am just opting out using it in rifle barrels.

LakuNoc said:

Do y

Do you let kroil and JB stay in there for long period of time and than clean or?

Click to expand...

I doubt it would do much good just soaking. I pull JB from the jar, make a slightly consistent mix like runny mashed taters in a small container, go to town. In your case, this go, you may only need to knock the high spots off, don't get too carried away. If I decide the barrel needs to be stripped, trust me, it is clean. But I probably use JB every 3rd cleaning, and wish I didn't have too, but RL 16 and H4895 which I use plenty of lays down hard carbon in the first few inches of the barrel and speeds increase.

Paging mr.thomas @Dthomas3523

Milo 2.5 said:

but RL 16 and H4895 which I use plenty of lays down hard carbon in the first few inches of the barrel and speeds increase.

Click to expand...

How many rounds are you getting before the carbon buildup with the R16?

Are you positive its carbon?
How many rounds on barrel?
Is it the first 8"?

Plug the barrel, Fill the barrel and chamber, leave it 24 hours.
Don't forget an auxiliary bucket under barrel in case plug leeks.

Messed with a ring for days till this was done.

24 hrs fiiled with hoppe's #9 bore cleaner, (because that is what we had enough of) and put in vice vertically filled all the way up the chamber.

Came out compleatly.

We have kroil and a host of other fine products but decided to use old school on it.

I had thought the barrel was ruined, nope.

I have decided to clean my ar barrels every couple hundred rounds since this pita.

Long Range 338 said:

How many rounds are you getting before the carbon buildup with the R16?

Click to expand...

So many different answers, lol. Seems like each case is different. I recall 6 XC I could easily get 300 before a cleaning, in 6 Dasher, maybe 250. Right now the only rifle I am running it in right now is 6x47 and I think around 150 is the magic number, and not sure why so few. I can keep it bay by jagging some C4 after a range trip for a bit. But it is like clockwork, too much buildup, get a speed increase w/o an accuracy decrease, PIA.
How about you, experiences?

Side note .
While cleaning with everything one observation.
No copper was found on patches even from the start.

I have been using cfe223 for a while now.
Evidently it works, not a scientific test, just what I did not see on patches.

Milo 2.5 said:

So many different answers, lol. Seems like each case is different. I recall 6 XC I could easily get 300 before a cleaning, in 6 Dasher, maybe 250. Right now the only rifle I am running it in right now is 6x47 and I think around 150 is the magic number, and not sure why so few. I can keep it bay by jagging some C4 after a range trip for a bit. But it is like clockwork, too much buildup, get a speed increase w/o an accuracy decrease, PIA.
How about you, experiences?

Click to expand...

I'm loading in a 6x47 and 243AI and haven't done enough shooting with either to see a problem, but now I'm suspicious about the 243AI as I was fire forming I blew a primer with a light load. I'm planning to use R16 as my go to powder for the 6.5CM but keep finding factory ammo cheap enough to keep me unmotivated for reloading.

OP, are you shooting factory loads or hand loads? Also what powder, just for info?

From the same co. that make the Wipe-Out, always had good luck with it:

Wannashootit said:

From the same co. that make the Wipe-Out, always had good luck with it:

Carb-Out Firearm Carbon Remover | Sharp Shoot R

Carb-Out Firearm Carbon Remover has been designed to be a maximum strength product for dissolving carbon without brushing.

sharpshootr.com

Click to expand...

I go 300-400+ shots on my 260 regularly.
One application of regular wipe-out, let it sit 3-4 hours and patch it out and I’m GTG.
I’m thinking the OP is mistaking regular scorching for carbon.
That scorching,,,,it ain’t coming out!
Lol!
My toasted old 260 barrels are black for the first 1/4 of the Barrel even if pristine clean.

Another overnight method is marvels mystery oil filled to the lug

Frank and I recommend Remington 40x
Works better to me than JB
Clean your barrel more often and you won't have this problem.
If a barrel is cleaned properly there's no way to harm it.

Milo 2.5 said:

Why? Are you assuming my methods do not work?
I have deep sixed whole revolvers, MPX barrels in CLR in a sonic cleaner, I know it works. I am just opting out using it in rifle barrels.

Click to expand...

Oh gotcha. Not saying what you do is wrong, I had the impression you never tried it.

How would ATF work? Anyone try this before?

I'm surprised Wipe-Out didn't do the trick for you. That stuff is magic for my barrels. Fill it with that foam and a plastic bag rubber banded over the muzzle overnight and never use any brushes. Patches only. They look new after this method. May have to do it two nights in a row if patches don't come out clean after 6 or 8.
As far as fire-forming brass, I simply charge empty cases and fire them straight up using approx. 7 grains of bullseye or some other fast burning powder, no bullet. 6mm Rem AI may run 8 or 9 grains. Do this slowly as plenty of heat can develop. Take a few hours for 100 cases.

Ioso on a appropriate sized patch wrapped around a Nylon brush. Work it back and forth down the barrel evenly. Three patches for the process. Clean out the barrel with alcohol to get out the paste. Plan on 10 rounds to shoot back in.

Gregor.Samsa said:

How would ATF work? Anyone try this before?

Click to expand...

Tried it, sealed off the barrel, filled it up, and left it for 24 hours. I didn't see a noticeable difference.

My neighbor who collects old military rifles describes filling the barrel with Hoppes and leaving it over night?

GM Top Engine Cleaner. As described above plug chamber and let stand over night to a couple of days.

GM top is good. The original stuff is better.
Try some Ed's Red. look for the formula it's on the internet. Works great but stinks.
Good luck.

Bringing this back from the dead. How are you guys filling the barrels up with cleaners without getting stuff all in the action?

Silicone painters plug

Huskydriver said:

Silicone painters plug

Click to expand...

How about a foam ear plug?

SilentStalkr said:

How about a foam ear plug?

Click to expand...

I mean I'm sure it would work. I just use the silicon ones as they are reusable and fit great

Huskydriver said:

I mean I'm sure it would work. I just use the silicon ones as they are reusable and fit great

Click to expand...

What’s your fave solvent or method for carbon rings? Sadly ive not cleaned a lot of my crap in a long time and am a bit concerned worth carbon left in there at this point, in pretty much everything I own.

SilentStalkr said:

What’s your fave solvent or method for carbon rings? Sadly ive not cleaned a lot of my crap in a long time and am a bit concerned worth carbon left in there at this point, in pretty much everything I own.

Click to expand...

Clr or boretech c4

SilentStalkr said:

Bringing this back from the dead. How are you guys filling the barrels up with cleaners without getting stuff all in the action?

Click to expand...

Bought 10m of "water filter line" at the hardware and a few syringes, it actually winds into the syringe end but araldite for security.


I'm still fighting carbon ring in a couple of rifles, have done a couple of CLR soaks of 10 to 15 minutes bore to back of chamber, 3 hours then overnight C4 soaked mops, numerous boretech c4 patches and nylon brush on drill with C4, CLR, acetone, wax and grease remover. Picking up some bore paste this week.

SilentStalkr said:

Bringing this back from the dead. How are you guys filling the barrels up with cleaners without getting stuff all in the action?

Click to expand...

Take the barrel off the action first.