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Tikka T3 Thread

I was initially thinking PST2, Ares BTR - close in weight and price, but a tad chunkier than desired...though only a few ounces heavier than the SWFA SS 3-15x42. If cost were not a concern, I'd likely grab https://marchscopes.com/scopes/d24v42fiml/ or https://marchscopes.com/scopes/d24v52fiml/. It's not like a good optic is ever wasted...but my shooting slush fund only has so much float. Grabbing a March (or similar) means definitely putting stock/bottom metal/barrel on hold as well as not buying another optic for different rifle...at least in the short term. Worth it? Perhaps.

My wife told me I might as well buy the March because I'll eventually regret not buying...and then buy it. :LOL: If spending as much on the optic is good, spending nearly four times the rifle's price must be better, right?
If you're going that way save up a tiny bit more and get the Zero Compromise Optics. They're only another $500. They are gorgeous. Check out this thread. https://www.snipershide.com/shootin...-cstactical-com-and-customers-photos.6958254/

I can't afford them but they are top of the line. If you get one this weekend you get a spuhr or arc mount free.
 
A buddy of mine picked up his Tikka off another friend. Swears by it now. I see a lot of similarities between the tikka and the ruger rpr
 
Are you guys seeing a lot of free bore in 260 Tikkas? I’m checked 140gr eldm’s and I was getting 2.975. I’m running LA mags so I can run it at that length but that seems excessive.
 
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I was wondering. Don't see how you could. That's why I don't understand those bipods. Maybe I'm missing something.


The higher the peak of the bipod is in relation to the bore is supposed to increase overall stability.
 
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The higher the peak of the bipod is in relation to the bore is supposed to increase overall stability.
Higher the bipod pivot point is against the bore, the more stable the gun is.
Look the Sako TRG bipod, that is the very first bipods that made that type of bipods on the market.
Now days there are couple more of that type bipods.
Here is a list that i found in a quick search.

I have had this Viking tactical bipod.


This Aussie guy is doing adapter for Atlas bipod legs, so that you can build a hanging type of bipod.
 
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Perfect balance.
CF10.JPG
 
The higher the peak of the bipod is in relation to the bore is supposed to increase overall stability.
Higher the bipod pivot point is against the bore, the more stable the gun is.
Look the Sako TRG bipod, that is the very first bipods that made that type of bipods on the market.
Now days there are couple more of that type bipods.
Here is a list that i found in a quick search.

I have had this Viking tactical bipod.


This Aussie guy is doing adapter for Atlas bipod legs, so that you can build a hanging type of bipod.

Thanks. I knew there had to be a reason. Physics for the win.

Just seems to me to get in the way of optics unless you raise the optics. I search for some images of them in use to see if I can settle my own mind.
 
Actually TRG bipod has pivot point under the bore so it’s not hanging bipod. The pivot points of the legs are quite high which makes is quite wide and steady.

Fortmeier/Phoenix and some others have pivot point parallel to bore over the bore and probably over the balance point of rifle so those should level the gun.

I have fortmeier waiting for picatinny spigot to try it on M10. Probably at some point I will move to TRG bipod which is sweet!
 
I have heard that stock tikka barrels are a PITA to remove without damage. Would having barrel flats machined into the stock barrel for a swap barrel setup solve this? ie could one start with a stock barrel, get it machined, and then use that in addition to another caliber?
 
image.jpg


Well, there she is. 7.6 lbs of questionable life choices. I bought a new cantilever mount for the AR wearing that Trijicon and thought “Well, if it’s gotta come out of the mount anyway, might as well get some rounds out of the new Tikka.” No cheek weld to speak of, but plenty of eye relief. I’ve got a feeling I’m gonna be looking forward to adding another pound of scope** and rings when they arrive, as well as my limb saver, once I get it out. My ammo arrived today for testing, too...

**I did call Doug at CameralandNY and bought something reasonable. I tried local first because I like supporting LGS when I can if they merit. I found a store that at least had a PST 2 in stock and might have decent selection under more normal circumstances...however, $999 wasn't gonna get me to bite.

ETA2: the first range outing was “OK.” I made it through a box of Barnes LRX w/ no more than mild discomfort. No groups to brag on - maybe next time. The LRX stabilizes with no issue, seemingly, so there’s that. Now, the vintage .300 Wby that I fired is another story - the first and only time I’ve had a scope bite me; nowhere near enough eye relief for me, should have seen it coming. I did do some cleaning on the range, but I’m gonna let it sit for now...no appreciable copper fouling to be seen atm.
 
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Does anyone has a KRG enclosed forend for the Tikka that is not being used. I have been looking for one. Thanks in advance.
 
Pst 2? Also check the optics section of the hide and also hide sponsors. Doug @ Cameraland, Liberty optics, and a few others take care of hide members well.
@gr8fuldoug referred me to Scott @ Liberty Optics for Vortex Scopes a couple of days ago.
it says a lot about someone’s character when he’ll PM you to help get you taken care of.
I’ve got a stack of Athlon and Leica boxes from NY Cameraland but wanted something different this time around.
 
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Quick question for all you Tikka owners. I’ll be grabbing a T3X Lite in 308 this summer as a donor action. Not married to the 308 it’s just what a local gun shop has in stock often. I’ve looked at about 30% of the 153 pages on this thread but I figured it would be faster to ask...

Do you prefer pre-fits or the barrel nut system?

Pros and Cons of either would be greatly appreciated.

I run a Remage 700 so I’m familiar with the barrel nut system and I have all the correct equipment.

Thanks
Matt

Don‘t worry about the barrel nut vs. shouldered pre-fit barrels.
There has been no real empirical data to prove one superior to another.
The concentricity of the bore, rifling, threading and chamber machining are more important than how the the barrel is tightened against the forward face of the receiver.
The Benchrest shooters may have an argument towards shouldered barrels, but they’re not buying pre-fit barrels...
 
Don‘t worry about the barrel nut vs. shouldered pre-fit barrels.
There has been no real empirical data to prove one superior to another.
The concentricity of the bore, rifling, threading and chamber machining are more important than how the the barrel is tightened against the forward face of the receiver.
The Benchrest shooters may have an argument towards shouldered barrels, but they’re not buying pre-fit barrels...

Got it, thanks for responding. I figured it was going to be similar to the Remage.

I see it split roughly 50/50 on taking factory barrels off...any experience?
 
Got it, thanks for responding. I figured it was going to be similar to the Remage.

I see it split roughly 50/50 on taking factory barrels off...any experience?

I haven’t tried to take a factory barrel off yet, so no direct experience there - yet...
I ordered an X-Caliber pre-fit last week so I’m about 9-10 weeks from finding out.
It seems that the earlier production rifles were installed by King Kong but the reports lately have been easier removal.
 
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I haven’t tried to take a factory barrel off yet, so no direct experience there - yet...
I ordered an X-Caliber pre-fit last week so I’m about 9-10 weeks from finding out.
It seems that the earlier production rifles were installed by King Kong but the reports lately have been easier removal.

I also read similar stories.

Now I'll have to see who makes barrels and by type and lead times.

Where did you purchase your X-Cal barrel?
 
I also read similar stories.

Now I'll have to see who makes barrels and by type and lead times.

Where did you purchase your X-Cal barrel?
X-Caliber directly. They are running a 25% off sale right now for Memorial Day, I think it ends today or tomorrow.
If you miss the sale try “ ACCURATE20 “ for a coupon code.
 
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I just removed the factory barrel from my CTR action. It took 5 different tries but in the end the successful combo was a barrel vice clamped in a vice bolted to a 4’x8’ steel work table and an external action wrench with 2’ handle. I soaked in in liquid wrench for 4 days in a row. You need a very rigid setup to shock it loose.
 
I just removed the factory barrel from my CTR action. It took 5 different tries but in the end the successful combo was a barrel vice clamped in a vice bolted to a 4’x8’ steel work table and an external action wrench with 2’ handle. I soaked in in liquid wrench for 4 days in a row. You need a very rigid setup to shock it loose.

I assume soaking it was the 5th and final attempt?

Edit: I went back and read your post...that was your 5th attempt LOL! Sorry

Did you try a little heat?
 
I have heard that stock tikka barrels are a PITA to remove without damage. Would having barrel flats machined into the stock barrel for a swap barrel setup solve this? ie could one start with a stock barrel, get it machined, and then use that in addition to another caliber?

I soaked my barrel threads in kroil and PB Blaster for a few days prior. Came off with no issues on the first try. I had a CTR that I converted to Bugnut.
 
No I wanted to avoid heat. My next stop was going to be the lathe. To protect the action from marks I had been using gorilla tape, but switched to a toilet paper roll. It had a lot less give than the tape. As I said rigid is key.
 
No I wanted to avoid heat. My next stop was going to be the lathe. To protect the action from marks I had been using gorilla tape, but switched to a toilet paper roll. It had a lot less give than the tape. As I said rigid is key.
This has been stated before and is one of the mistakes people make.
Putting to much clamping force on the action wrench compresses the action threads into the barrel threads and makes it harder to remove the barrel.
All that is needed is to tighten the action wrench just enough to not have any movement of the jaws against the action to keep it from marring the action.
I did this the first barrel I tried to remove and could not budge it.
I loosened the action wrench just enough to hold the action without the jaws moving and it spun right off without a single mark on the action....I've removed several now doing this with no problems at all.
 
Got it, thanks for responding. I figured it was going to be similar to the Remage.

I see it split roughly 50/50 on taking factory barrels off...any experience?
I have taken off four Tikka barrels and two Sako TRG barrels with no trouble. Just a whack of my hand on the action wrench spun off the Tikka barrels and a couple whacks on the action wrench handle with a rubber mallet broke the Sako TRG barrels free. Easy.
 
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DeaM, that paint job is sweeeet.
Is that Razor 4.5-27x56?
Since i have not found those Tenebraex caps from anywhere for my 3-18x50:cry:
Yes it is the Vortex Razor Gen II 4.5-27x56 sitting in a Spuhr 4601, sitting on a Tikka T3 Tactical 20" in .308. Thanks for the compliment, coming from you it means alot.
 
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I am having a barrel wise too.
Ensio Firearms, a Finnish company makes one, with reasonable price, now i swap my barrel in home at no time.
308win barrel also having straight fluting and coyote tan cerakoting is removed and it will be matt blued.
Some how i got love for 308win, even though it aint the sexiest caliber, but it´s nice to have :)
Ready cheep shooting ammo can be found in every gun store.
 
I applaud your decision.

A .308 will never let you allow yourself a man bun, capris, or v-necks.

Post your usual excellent pictures when you receive & install the Ensio.

What twist/length are you getting?


Ensio Firearms, a Finnish company makes one, with reasonable price, now i swap my barrel in home at no time.
308win barrel also having straight fluting and coyote tan cerakoting is removed and it will be matt blued.
Some how i got love for 308win, even though it aint the sexiest caliber, but it´s nice to have :)
Ready cheep shooting ammo can be found in every gun store.
 
Some how i got love for 308win, even though it aint the sexiest caliber, but it´s nice to have :)

I thought about the 308 back and forth before I bought my Tikka, ammo and components are every and the cheapest besides the 223.
Then decided I want the extra range and got me a 6.5 CM, which I´m struggling eversince.

The next barrel will 98% be a 308.
 
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I’m looking at upgrading my CTR stock. Overall I like the angles of it and I put a triad stock pack on to get the proper cheek rise. Just don’t like the plastic feeling...

This is a 20” CTR that I use for 50% bench shooting and 50% hunting with a good bit of hiking. Gun currently weighs 10.5 pounds and will be 11.5 pounds when my suppressor is freed. I don’t want to add anymore weight than this. I also don’t need it to be super adjustable since I actually like the triad stock lack a lot. If I was willing to take a weight hit, I’d just grab a KRG bravo.

Are there currently any stocks/styles I should be looking at? Mesa precision, McMillan or manners all seem like they have some solid options but there’s a lot out there.
 
I’m looking at upgrading my CTR stock. Overall I like the angles of it and I put a triad stock pack on to get the proper cheek rise. Just don’t like the plastic feeling...

This is a 20” CTR that I use for 50% bench shooting and 50% hunting with a good bit of hiking. Gun currently weighs 10.5 pounds and will be 11.5 pounds when my suppressor is freed. I don’t want to add anymore weight than this. I also don’t need it to be super adjustable since I actually like the triad stock lack a lot. If I was willing to take a weight hit, I’d just grab a KRG bravo.

Are there currently any stocks/styles I should be looking at? Mesa precision, McMillan or manners all seem like they have some solid options but there’s a lot out there.

If you like a chassis there is this:

 
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I’m looking at upgrading my CTR stock. Overall I like the angles of it and I put a triad stock pack on to get the proper cheek rise. Just don’t like the plastic feeling...

This is a 20” CTR that I use for 50% bench shooting and 50% hunting with a good bit of hiking. Gun currently weighs 10.5 pounds and will be 11.5 pounds when my suppressor is freed. I don’t want to add anymore weight than this. I also don’t need it to be super adjustable since I actually like the triad stock lack a lot. If I was willing to take a weight hit, I’d just grab a KRG bravo.

Are there currently any stocks/styles I should be looking at? Mesa precision, McMillan or manners all seem like they have some solid options but there’s a lot out there.

Manners EHT is a great option if you like the ergos of the OEM stock. You'll also save about 100g in weight, and more if you swap to the factory plastic bottom "metal' and mags
 
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If you like a chassis there is this:


I know you are concerned about weight with the KRG Bravo, however, I run one that's sitting at 18ish LBS. I live in California so, no suppressor for me. I do have a 26" MTU barrel. When I had a stock 20" barrel I came in at 13 - 14 LBS.

They have a ton of accessories that would add weight as well as lots of empty compartments that you can fill with stick-on tire weights or pistol projectiles to add weight and balance. Another positive is has an option to come AICS magazine ready.
 
If you like a chassis there is this:


if I go with a pure chassis, this would be my pick. Seems to be really light comparable and I do like the looks. However I found that my ARs get freezing in during winter coyote hunts and would like to stay away from the metal. Maybe for another build
 
Manners EHT is a great option if you like the ergos of the OEM stock. You'll also save about 100g in weight, and more if you swap to the factory plastic bottom "metal' and mags

thank you for the recommendation. I will look into it. I like the CTR grip angle of being vertical but not purely vertical, if that makes sense. Easier to take off hand or awkward shots while hunting
 
I know you are concerned about weight with the KRG Bravo, however, I run one that's sitting at 18ish LBS. I live in California so, no suppressor for me. I do have a 26" MTU barrel. When I had a stock 20" barrel I came in at 13 - 14 LBS.

They have a ton of accessories that would add weight as well as lots of empty compartments that you can fill with stick-on tire weights or pistol projectiles to add weight and balance. Another positive is has an option to come AICS magazine ready.

I think he's looking to NOT add weight.
 
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my smith had to do a relief cut in mine. mine's a T3. I didn't care about the factory barrel anyways. extremely happy with the finished product.
D821FD9B-6E5B-454E-BCE8-2BD6BB8E0D9C_jpeg.jpg
 
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Got it, thanks for responding. I figured it was going to be similar to the Remage.

I see it split roughly 50/50 on taking factory barrels off...any experience?

I put my barreled action barrel down in a vise and soaked it with kroil for about 2 weeks. It came loose with an inside action wrench, the kroil was 3/4 of the way into the threads. My CTR that had over 2500 rounds on it had to be cut off.

I have one barrel nut barrel on my CTR and shouldered barrels with flats on my match rifle. I like the shouldered barrels with the flats better. I can swap barrels without taking the action out of the stock and I don't have to remove my scope. Preferred Barrel Blanks offers shouldered and nut style prefits and you can add flats on the barrel for $20. I am tempted to try a shouldered 6GT barrel form them with the flats.
 
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This has been stated before and is one of the mistakes people make.
Putting to much clamping force on the action wrench compresses the action threads into the barrel threads and makes it harder to remove the barrel.
All that is needed is to tighten the action wrench just enough to not have any movement of the jaws against the action to keep it from marring the action.
I did this the first barrel I tried to remove and could not budge it.
I loosened the action wrench just enough to hold the action without the jaws moving and it spun right off without a single mark on the action....I've removed several now doing this with no problems at all.

What wrench are you using?
 
I’m looking at upgrading my CTR stock. Overall I like the angles of it and I put a triad stock pack on to get the proper cheek rise. Just don’t like the plastic feeling...

This is a 20” CTR that I use for 50% bench shooting and 50% hunting with a good bit of hiking. Gun currently weighs 10.5 pounds and will be 11.5 pounds when my suppressor is freed. I don’t want to add anymore weight than this. I also don’t need it to be super adjustable since I actually like the triad stock lack a lot. If I was willing to take a weight hit, I’d just grab a KRG bravo.

Are there currently any stocks/styles I should be looking at? Mesa precision, McMillan or manners all seem like they have some solid options but there’s a lot out there.

The German Gun Stock Ranger weighs 2.4 lbs and has great ergonomics. Has an aluminum mini-chassis so no bedding is needed.
1-15-20 Phone Pics 2516.jpg
 
I’m looking at upgrading my CTR stock. Overall I like the angles of it and I put a triad stock pack on to get the proper cheek rise. Just don’t like the plastic feeling...

This is a 20” CTR that I use for 50% bench shooting and 50% hunting with a good bit of hiking. Gun currently weighs 10.5 pounds and will be 11.5 pounds when my suppressor is freed. I don’t want to add anymore weight than this. I also don’t need it to be super adjustable since I actually like the triad stock lack a lot. If I was willing to take a weight hit, I’d just grab a KRG bravo.

Are there currently any stocks/styles I should be looking at? Mesa precision, McMillan or manners all seem like they have some solid options but there’s a lot out there.
I was going through the same process. I went with a KRG Bravo. After a couple months I decided I didn’t care for the chassis. I sold it and picked up a McMillan A 3 with edge fill. That’s a much better fit for a hunting gun in my opinion. Also I switched the bottom metal to Mountain tactical with the factory plastic mags. This saves around 7 oz.

All up weight will be a shade over 9# with a Vortex LHT in Seekins rings. I am using a MT tactical rail and have an ASR break on the front. Sub 10# with my Omega on the front.
 
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I thought about the 308 back and forth before I bought my Tikka, ammo and components are every and the cheapest besides the 223.
Then decided I want the extra range and got me a 6.5 CM, which I´m struggling eversince.

The next barrel will 98% be a 308.

There aint nothing wrong in 308, still military caliber, and great choice for overall for hunting.
Barrel life is also very long :)