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Cleaning the easy way

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Dthomas3523

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  • Jan 31, 2018
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    Just another data point for anyone looking into the clean or don’t clean. Here’s a quick method (as far as actual work), and results after.

    My cleaning method:

    Remove barrel, plug, and hang vertically

    Fill with CLR and let sit (2hrs, 4hrs, overnight, whatever you want)

    Drain (you can refill and sit again if you like)

    Patch dry

    Nylon brush dipped in Montana extreme
    Run brush with drill (coated rod) for a min or two. I use a short rod for a min or so just past chamber to alleviate any carbon ring.

    Patch dry

    Clean chamber thoroughly

    Done (you can also soak with copper solvent after clr and brush takes out carbon)

    You can either take a look with borescope or just see how a patch feels. You should have zero hard spots. The patch should feel very, very smooth throughout the whole barrel.

    Here is my dasher that had 400 rnds on it, used the above method to clean and then put everything back together and zero’d

    The first 3 shots were the bottom right. The next 3 required no adjustments to zero. The barreled fouled within 3 rounds (pretty typical from my experience) and then went right back to where it was before cleaning.

    This isn’t a “clean or not to clean” debate. Just a method and data point for anyone looking for an easy button cleaning. Its about 10min of actual work (take rifle/barrel apart, and the brush/patching). The rest is just the soaking while you are working or sleeping.
     

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    I have recently discovered CLR from this forum...best stuff ever.
     
    Pro-tip: don't use this method on carbon steel barrels. CLR will pit them if allowed to dwell/soak.
     
    Just another data point for anyone looking into the clean or don’t clean. Here’s a quick method (as far as actual work), and results after.

    My cleaning method:

    Remove barrel, plug, and hang vertically

    Fill with CLR and let sit (2hrs, 4hrs, overnight, whatever you want)

    Drain (you can refill and sit again if you like)

    Patch dry

    Nylon brush dipped in Montana extreme
    Run brush with drill (coated rod) for a min or two. I use a short rod for a min or so just past chamber to alleviate any carbon ring.

    Patch dry

    Clean chamber thoroughly

    Done (you can also soak with copper solvent after clr and brush takes out carbon)

    You can either take a look with borescope or just see how a patch feels. You should have zero hard spots. The patch should feel very, very smooth throughout the whole barrel.

    Here is my dasher that had 400 rnds on it, used the above method to clean and then put everything back together and zero’d

    The first 3 shots were the bottom right. The next 3 required no adjustments to zero. The barreled fouled within 3 rounds (pretty typical from my experience) and then went right back to where it was before cleaning.

    This isn’t a “clean or not to clean” debate. Just a method and data point for anyone looking for an easy button cleaning. Its about 10min of actual work (take rifle/barrel apart, and the brush/patching). The rest is just the soaking while you are working or sleeping.
    Thanks for posting your results. What are your thoughts on this thread?
    Reports like this that occasionally pop up keep me from trying CLR.
     
    Got any first hand evidence of this?

    I got a little on an old Savage bolt head and it took the finish right off. CLR might be fine for a stainless barrel but the carbon steel action attached to the barrel is going to get glued shut if you get any CLR on it and let it sit.
     
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    Seems like an extreme cleaning method to me. I guess if you have a neglected barrel this might be called for?
    I got a little on an old Savage bolt head and it took the finish right off. CLR might be fine for a stainless barrel but the carbon steel action attached to the barrel is going to get glued shut if you get any CLR on it and let it sit.
    the key to using CLR for cleaning is removing the barrel. It MUST be removed from anything close to the action, receiver, etc.

    I never advise anyone to use CLR while the barrel is attached.
     
    the key to using CLR for cleaning is removing the barrel. It MUST be removed from anything close to the action, receiver, etc.

    I never advise anyone to use CLR while the barrel is attached.
    That’s why you use a bore guides and chamber mops etc. If you’re getting fluid in your action, you’re just sucking at cleaning.
     
    the key to using CLR for cleaning is removing the barrel. It MUST be removed from anything close to the action, receiver, etc.

    I never advise anyone to use CLR while the barrel is attached.

    "Cleaning The Easy Way...You Just Have To Remove The Barrel First".

    The only way this thread could be better is by adding some 75K+ PSI load data.

    CLR is a mild acid. Contents
     
    If you look at my previous post, I said I don't use CLR. I use Wipe-Out. It has been successful in me preventing any carbon rings in my 6mm setups. Due to the nature of CLR, I 'advise' removing the barrel. It prevents any mishaps.

    I am simply providing context for @Dthomas3523 original post. He is also not the first to mention it... https://www.primalrights.com/library/articles/evolution-barrel-cleaning , Eric Cortina, etc.

    CLR being used as a cleaner is nothing new. F-Class and BR shooters do this frequently. Just like reloading projectiles at 3000+fps requires knowledge at what you're doing, so does using CLR.

    YMMV.
     
    If you look at my previous post, I said I don't use CLR. I use Wipe-Out. It has been successful in me preventing any carbon rings in my 6mm setups. Due to the nature of CLR, I 'advise' removing the barrel. It prevents any mishaps.

    I am simply providing context for @Dthomas3523 original post. He is also not the first to mention it... https://www.primalrights.com/library/articles/evolution-barrel-cleaning , Eric Cortina, etc.

    CLR being used as a cleaner is nothing new. F-Class and BR shooters do this frequently. Just like reloading projectiles at 3000+fps requires knowledge at what you're doing, so does using CLR.

    YMMV.

    I was responding to you saying the “key” is to remove the barrel. If you want to do that, great. Pretty easy to keep shit out of the breech though.
     
    I was responding to you saying the “key” is to remove the barrel. If you want to do that, great. Pretty easy to keep shit out of the breech though.
    Removing a barrel takes, what, a few seconds? Sure as hell makes cleaning easier.

    Plus you can clean things like the threads, action, etc.
     
    What do you plug the barrel with? Ear plug? Or will the chemicals eat the foam
     
    What do you plug the barrel with? Ear plug? Or will the chemicals eat the foam
    I use a foam ear plug. I’ve cleaned my 6br barrel a few times now with the same ear plug and same method minus pulling the barrel and have seen great results and no degradation of accuracy.
     
    Got any first hand evidence of this?
    Yeah, maybe because it's caustic

    Take a look into Pickling, in reality that is all you are doing.

    HOW TO USE THIS PRODUCT

    dropdown
    • In a well-ventilated area, mix equal amounts of CLR and warm water.
    • Test on a hidden area before applying to the entire surface and apply directly to the stain with a brush, cloth, or sponge and let soak for 2 minutes.
    • Rinse promptly with cold water.
    • Never leave CLR on an area for longer than two minutes or mix with other household cleaners or bleach.
    • Always read the manufacturer's directions of the item you will be cleaning to make sure that this product is compatible. Consumer discretion is always advised.

    CLR may etch older sinks, tubs, and tiles. Avoid contact with wood, clothing, wallpaper, carpeting, natural stones, brass, copper, aluminum, galvanized metals, any painted, coated or sealed surfaces. Clean spills immediately.
     
    Last edited:
    ...doesnt CLR discolour nitrided parts as well? Remember to remove your brakes/adapters/tuners/etc.
     
    Got any first hand evidence of this?
    Some etching that occurred on the exterior of a neighbor's shotgun barrel that I was asked to clean up. It had a few light rust spots from improper storage (among other issues). The spots that I ended up re-touching with cold bluing were conspicuously larger than the original rust spots.
     
    My reading comprehension sucks! DOES it eat chrome molybdenum?
     
    Seems like an extreme cleaning method to me. I guess if you have a neglected barrel this might be called for?

    No, the issue is most don’t clean their barrel enough.

    They wait for “accuracy to fall off.” The issue is that you don’t get to choose when that will happen.

    You know when my accuracy falls off (except at the end of barrel life)? Never, because I take simple steps that are easy lifts and don’t inconvenience me at all.

    Not telling anyone what to do, just providing info.
     
    How are you putting a cleaning rod in a drill?
     
    How are you putting a cleaning rod in a drill?
    So I bought a “universal” hoppes three piece cleaning rod. I took the piece that the brush screws into, chuck it up in the drill and run it into the chamber a few times. I’ll take a picture here in a few
     
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    So I bought a “universal” hoppes three piece cleaning rod. I took the piece that the brush screws into, chuck it up in the drill and run it into the chamber a few times. I’ll take a picture here in a few
    That makes sense. Forgot about the 3 piece rods
     
    No, the issue is most don’t clean their barrel enough.

    They wait for “accuracy to fall off.” The issue is that you don’t get to choose when that will happen.

    You know when my accuracy falls off (except at the end of barrel life)? Never, because I take simple steps that are easy lifts and don’t inconvenience me at all.

    Not telling anyone what to do, just providing info.
    So how often are you pulling your barrel to clean it?
     
    For those worried about clr and your barrel, keep the barrel slice from the Smith and put some clr on it. I'm doing it and don't see any issues.
     
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    I have a chunk from a 4140 barrel I am gonna soak in CLR and see what it does...will report back.
     
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    - Fill bore with Crisco
    - Let sit
    - See if Crisco is still packed in barrel
    - Go shoot it
    - No idea what happens

    Never filled a bore with it but used to fill the end of loaded chambers with it on black powder revolvers.
     
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    For those worried about clr and your barrel, keep the barrel slice from the Smith and put some clr on it. I'm doing it and don't see any issues.

    This is a good idea. I’m also assuming *if* any damage is done, its either not critical, or the barrels burn out faster than the damage progresses.
     
    Did I make it before the primal rights guy shows up and tells us all that we're retarded and that you have to dilute the CLR with 14% lanolin, 6% hamburger helper, 11% Soul Glo and 2.4% goats blood?
    It's the Soul Glo that's so tough to find.
     
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    I’ve used CLR a lot for my brakes and crown carbon.
    I normally go about 150-250 rounds depending on which rifle, my 7 saum definitely prefers to be cleaned more.
    If CLR is good for top level shooters it’s certainly good enough for me and I use it if I push the round count past 150 then use wipe out after.
     
    I've used Ed's Red for many years and never found a need for anything else. You can make it for a fraction of what other cleaners sell for.
     
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    Did I make it before the primal rights guy shows up and tells us all that we're retarded and that you have to dilute the CLR with 14% lanolin, 6% hamburger helper, 11% Soul Glo and 2.4% goats blood?
    Tagging for the YouTube video where the primal rights guy proves your ratios are all fucked up
     
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