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Gunsmithing Remington 700 Action Trueing

brentwinkey

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Jan 14, 2012
389
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33
St.Cloud Minnesota
Looking for recommendations for a place to true up a Remington long action. I know this work is probably gone by the way side now with all the custom actions around but I have a project in mind for a new hunting rifle and already have the action. Any info would be great. Thanks
 
Are you going to be using a nutted prefit?
If not, whoever is fitting your barrel should do the work. You want one "source" for the build to avoid any finger-pointing after if there are any issues.

JMO...when it comes to must hunting rifles (specifically excluding long-range hunting), going full Monty on truing has diminishing returns.
Shooting game at "typical" ranges limited to a few hundred yards doesn't require any more than minute of angle accuracy which is easily achievable with no action work at all. A quality barrel/chambering job will get you there and then some.

I would routinely face the receiver, and then check for amount of contact with lugs/abutments and see if they needed work beyond lapping.
If cost is no object, go for it. But for someone on a budget, I'd tell them to put the money into glass/trigger/stock instead of single-pointing threads, reaming the raceway, or other higher-end items that are part of a "full" truing job.

There is no set definition of what "truing" consists of- so when you get quoted a price for it- drill down and get the specifics of exactly what's included.
 
Are you going to be using a nutted prefit?
If not, whoever is fitting your barrel should do the work. You want one "source" for the build to avoid any finger-pointing after if there are any issues.

JMO...when it comes to must hunting rifles (specifically excluding long-range hunting), going full Monty on truing has diminishing returns.
Shooting game at "typical" ranges limited to a few hundred yards doesn't require any more than minute of angle accuracy which is easily achievable with no action work at all. A quality barrel/chambering job will get you there and then some.

I would routinely face the receiver, and then check for amount of contact with lugs/abutments and see if they needed work beyond lapping.
If cost is no object, go for it. But for someone on a budget, I'd tell them to put the money into glass/trigger/stock instead of single-pointing threads, reaming the raceway, or other higher-end items that are part of a "full" truing job.

There is no set definition of what "truing" consists of- so when you get quoted a price for it- drill down and get the specifics of exactly what's included.

I hear ya there. No remage stuff for me. I'll probably just use the Trueing money I would spend on a better barrel. I really don't shoot game past 400-500yds any way
 
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I hear ya there. No remage stuff for me. I'll probably just use the Trueing money I would spend on a better barrel. I really don't shoot game past 400-500yds any way

Remage provides you a great option to switch calibers.

Having been a person that poured a ton of money into a Rem700 action to then 6 months later purchase a custom, I’ll tell you, it’s not entirely worth it.

What is worth it, is having a smith write your prints down so you can make a phone call and you have a new barrel.
 
Remage provides you a great option to switch calibers.

Having been a person that poured a ton of money into a Rem700 action to then 6 months later purchase a custom, I’ll tell you, it’s not entirely worth it.

What is worth it, is having a smith write your prints down so you can make a phone call and you have a new barrel.

It would be a hunting rifle so I wouldn't really be switching anything out. I already have the rifle and was given to me so I'm not out anything using it just want to lighten it up with a proof barrel vs the factory steel varmint profile
 
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It would be a hunting rifle so I wouldn't really be switching anything out. I already have the rifle and was given to me so I'm not out anything using it just want to lighten it up with a proof barrel vs the factory steel varmint profile


That’s still a great option and encouraged. Not all factory barrels shoot well, and if you’re looking to reduce weight, then the Proof will help.
 
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It would be a hunting rifle so I wouldn't really be switching anything out. I already have the rifle and was given to me so I'm not out anything using it just want to lighten it up with a proof barrel vs the factory steel varmint profile
Not trying to take business away from Chad because the 700 he did for me shoots great.
If all all you want is lighter weight, what about just selling the current rifle and buying a new lighter weight one like a Tikka T3 superlite? Like you said you are looking for a hunting rifle and not something to shoot f-class with.
 
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Not trying to take business away from Chad because the 700 he did for me shoots great.
If all all you want is lighter weight, what about just selling the current rifle and buying a new lighter weight one like a Tikka T3 superlite? Like you said you are looking for a hunting rifle and not something to shoot f-class with.

Yeah I'm definitely a Tikka fan and have 6 Tikka rifles currently. But the rifle I would be rebarreling is a family rifle passed on that needs to get out in the field and used again. I couldn't sell it. Its got some pretty good sentimental value being that was the rifle I shot my first elk with my grandpa in the ground blind with me. I just want to give it a new life. It's got a good amount of rds thru it now and could use a diet.
 
Not trying to take business away from Chad because the 700 he did for me shoots great.
If all all you want is lighter weight, what about just selling the current rifle and buying a new lighter weight one like a Tikka T3 superlite? Like you said you are looking for a hunting rifle and not something to shoot f-class with.



If weight is a thing, here you go. 4lbs, 12oz. Titanium/steel. Shoots great.

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Straight up a remage setup. There's absolutely no way I'd have threads opened up and be committed to shipping an action off to a 'smith. I did it once and the Krieger barrel installed shot worse than the original LTR setup. NEVER AGAIN.
 
Bartlein is now making carbon wrapped barrels. It would be wise to take a look at those as well.
+1 for LRI. Just watch his video of how they do it. Honing the bore of the action true so they have a perfect place to reference from makes for a true part when finished.
 
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LRI- keep the factory threads so you have options later. Tier 2 is the one. Also have him fit what ever barrel you want. Several excellent Smith's out there, but LRI is at the top and FAST.
 
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LRI- keep the factory threads so you have options later. Tier 2 is the one. Also have him fit what ever barrel you want. Several excellent Smith's out there, but LRI is at the top and FAST.

Yeah would do tier 2 to keep the factory threads. Makes rebarreling if necessary in the future easier.