What brand is your most trusted AR15?

HK, have a MR223 (not MR556) ... the epitome of ar15s

BCM and DD have been good for me.

DD a little expensive for what it is, IMO. But the two i had (mk18 and Ddm4v1) were both extremely accurate.

Didn’t love 10.5 inch in. So, new go-to is a 12.5 BCM upper/lower with geissele SSA-E.

I've been very happy with my Noveske. Think I bought it in 2012? Can't remember a single malfunction. It's just been really solid.

BCM

LMT

SOLGW

BCM uppers...
Aero M4e1 lowers..

Consistent quality and availability that doesn't break the bank..

There are aot of really good options these days, even bargain basement AR15 such as PSA, are far more reliable than say some of the cheaper handguns on the market.

Generally speaking of the stuff I own, I would say Kac or LMT. but one can get a great rifle from many places these days

GUNNER10 said:

There are aot of really good options these days, even bargain basement AR15 such as PSA, are far more reliable than say some of the cheaper handguns on the market.

Generally speaking of the stuff I own, I would say Kac or LMT. but one can get a great rifle from many places these days

Click to expand...

Agree...PSA quality has greatly improved

BCM Uppers

Built not bought?

I have Noveske, PSA, ECGS, LMT, LCW lowers, I really don’t care what lower is in a rifle. I care about the barrel, the trigger in the lower, the muzzle device, then the rail just a little.

My current go to for hunting is this:
USGI Colt 14.5” pinned with BE Meyers M249 flash hider, broken A upper (that doesn’t matter), pinned super gas block (reliable but brand isn’t really important), colt f/a BCG (not really important), Geissele MK16 NSN rail, (only important for hanging my arisaka m300 with top mounted switch pad, and a BCM KAG), geissele hi-speed NM trigger (very important for me to have a good two stage trigger), colt buffer system, magpul CTR, slingster sling mounted as far apart as I can mount the sling swivels (near muzzle, and end of stock). Last but not least this has an old TA01 NSN ACOG no fiber, and barely any tritium glow.

In the last gew years I’ve taken several deer with this and even use it for squirrels. I trust this build.

I have a very similar build I would take to war, it has a colt 10.3” barrel, everything else is basically the same except it has an MRO, and a silencer, and an SD3G 2S trigger.

Brand doesn’t matter so much as training, also I’m a fan of the mantra:

“Beware the man with one gun, because he probably knows how to use it.”

I build most of my own, but if crap really goes south I am reaching for my 14.5" barrel welded muzzle device bcm upper. I have a 1-6 optic on it so anything from 1-400 yards is an easy target. I build my lowers to my liking, trigger tech diamond is the best precision trigger, elftmann is a great combat style trigger (adjusted towards the high end of the weight range).

My KAC SR15 lower with LMT 11.5” upper is my hotness. There is absolutely no slop between the upper and lower. It feels like all one piece. The LMT uppers have raised bumps, so you take a file and custom fit it to the lower. Much better than those stupid wedges or tension screws I’ve used before.

My DD feels kinda cheap in comparison.

Bushmaster.

3rd barrel. I had malfunctions with the thermold magazines back in 98. Nice genltleman showed me how to scrape the trimmings off my magazines.

After that...smooth sailing. Well except for wearing out the barrel/bolt every now and then. But shootin em does that.

(BCM if I am being serious).

I built all my AR’s but one.
My original windham was awesome
I really like BCM parts for the important stuff.

HK, Noveske.

For me it’s my lmt sbr

I own and would recommend KAC, Daniel Defense and LMT for any purpose / use case you can think of.

VLTOR w Noveske barrel

HK & KAC

Most of my rifles have colt USGI, or Noveske barrels, pushed by Geissele triggers, I’ll admit LT makes a pretty fine trigger also. Never tried a timney outside a bolt rifle though.

My Geissele has been consistent and is my go-to.

I have a Delton that shoots nice but needed some tuning to make 100%.

KAC

Barrett REC7

If I had to grab one ar and go, it would be my 16" sr15 mod 2. Light enough to carry all day and accurate to 800 or so with the 1-10 on it.

PWS

So far no one has gone off track, if I did have to grab and go SCAR-17 SBR.

My Colt is tried and true, does not matter what I do to it, what I feed it, if I clean it, doesn't even require lube; just goes bang every single time and on my 2nd barrel

I trust certain companies for certain things.



Some make barrels more for my liking, while others make upper receivers/handguards that are more to my preference.

Some make great fire control parts.

Some make superior Receiver Extension Tubes.

Some make bolt carriers that do more what I want (Bootleg), but may or may not use the carrier key and fasteners I prefer.

Some make really innovative or enhanced lower receivers (ADM, LaRue, Seekins, PF, 2A, KAC, JP).

Some make excellent charge handles that don’t break.

Some make better gas systems than others with sealed gas tube-to-gas block interface (KAC, LaRue).

Precious few use actual TDP LPKs with the correct materials and spec sheet conformity, which is critical with the springs, pins, mag catch, and bolt catch.

Many make good muzzle devices, and the biggest question is whether you have brake-attach or QD suppressor interface.

Only a few make bolts that actually last under high-volume shooting. Those who adhere to the TDP in this respect do the bolt longevity a disservice by subjecting them to non-destructive testing with the HPT. Notice that KAC and the Canadians don’t do it to their 5.56 bolts, nor does AA to Grendel bolts.

Depending on the direction of the build, I’ll go down a totally different path on parts selection, which has more to do with whether it will be an extreme lightweight build, a higher performance cartridge chambering, or a DM Carbine. Will it be suppressed most of the time/always? Is it intended for an all-round SHTF/Hunting/DM set-up?

With cartridges like 6.5 Grendel or 6mm ARC, you can have a lightweight SBR or pistol that will do all of the above. Short barrel length isn’t so much of a handicap when you’re launching .450 to .615 G1 BC bullets for your distance work, while having a wide weight/construction range of heavier hunting bullets to choose from.

Some examples for direction of a buy or build might sacrifice certain things if weight, distance, or user-interface are weighted more than the others:

1. Lightweight receiver/barrel SBR or pistol. Think 2A receivers, light profile 10.5” to 12.5” barrel, light 2A matching handguard, adjustable gas carrier, quality bolt from a reputable company, TDP LPK, LaRue RET



2. One thing I have wished for over the years was for the higher-end companies to offer a builder’s kit using their quality components that the customer can select from, so that you get the same known standards from that company, but assembled your way. LaRue really knocked that one out of the park with the UU kit. You can get everything you need and order a billet LaRue lower to finish it out for a complete LaRue rifle, with choices ranging from 14 different barrel lengths and calibers, different handguard lengths, and 5 different furniture set colors.



3. For a race gun, I’m going JP or Cobalt Kinetics. Almost every part is different and for logical reasons.





4. For a high-end customer who just wants to one-stop-shop for the rifle, KAC, LaRue PredatOBR, JP, Cobalt Kinetics, Noveske, Q, TRIARC, and some others are known performers.






5. Working man blaster that will take high volume and isn’t high-brow? BCM, Colt (OEM was one of the best things they ever did.)





6. Alternate caliber like 6.5 Grendel or 6mm ARC complete build? Alex-A, Barrett, CMMG, JP, LaRue, Lone Star Armory, Precision Firearms, Seekins.

does it count if it isn't really an "AR"?

fn scar 20s.
because i didn't have the money to evaluate it myself against other makes and models, over thousands of rounds and under severe abuse, i have to trust the military or other agencies that can do that for me. beyond that, i listened to people that actually used multiple makes and models in actual competitions.
personally, i can only base this on hundreds of rounds of 10+ different kinds of factory ammo from m80 to match, without any malfunction.

/and it is the only fully semi-automatic centerfire rifle i own.

In my opinion, you can build a better AR than you can buy. There are top quality parts out there and if you mix and match them, you can the perfect firearm.

None of them. Not knocking any brands, the point is simple, the value is in the Stoner design, the rest is just execution of the details of that design.

There may be bad ones, I haven't found any yet. I speak of AR-15's that I own, and which have not been redesigned by folks other than Stoner.

I built a few, too, and they ran as planned, but those plans adhered to Stoner's design with only minor alterations, like the two chambered in 6.5 Grendel.

Parts can fail. but parts are often bought from common suppliers.

Consider this, the M-16 design was intended to be used by High School dropouts, and maintained by some among them who showed mechanical aptitude. It achieved that goal very admirably.

The basic M-16 had issues. They were largely the result of arrogant politicians second guessing Stoner's specifications for the propellant. They were also issued without cleaning gear as a cost savings measure.

Dig deep down into M-16 problems and you'll probably find a feckless politician glaring back at you. Don't be too surprised if you find him wearing a uniform, either.

Greg

DocRDS said:

Bushmaster.

3rd barrel. I had malfunctions with the thermold magazines back in 98. Nice genltleman showed me how to scrape the trimmings off my magazines.

After that...smooth sailing. Well except for wearing out the barrel/bolt every now and then. But shootin em does that.

(BCM if I am being serious).

Click to expand...

I have a couple mid 90s Bushmasters that have quite a few rounds on them. That was certainly a totally different company. Remember when it was only ABC for ARs? Armalite, Bushmaster, Colt. Man, time really flies.

BullGear said:

In my opinion, you can build a better AR than you can buy. There are top quality parts out there and if you mix and match them, you can the perfect firearm.

Click to expand...

With the caveat that you have the same tools and gauges that a reputable manufacturer has.

They have bins of parts they can inspect and reject before letting them go into the guns.

Most home builders aren’t even aware of the critical dimensions within the carrier, around the bolt, and in the extension that form the basis of the TDP. Same goes for chambers. A good set of gauges goes a long way if you’re a DIY type.

There is a good argument for buying complete guns from reputable manufacturers who use gauges and proven materials, processes, and good tooling during manufacturing and assembly.

All but one of my ARs is DIY. Over the past 4 decades, I’ve learned why certain things are the way they are, most of which I was totally ignorant of for the first 2 decades, even when spending inordinate amounts of time studying the AR-15.

There are top-tier manufacturers who make basic mistakes with things like carrier keys, LPKs, barrel extensions, and bolts, and they do it intentionally thinking they’re doing something better than Mil-Spec.

There are so many lessons people are learning the hard way after deviating from processes and materials that were discovered for a reason.

hmmm, the only "factory" long gun stuff I have is a HK/Benelli M121 12ga and Beretta 1200 Police model....

..otherwise, everything else is DIY. Over time my preference has settled on AERO uppers & lowers, SLR AGB's and handguards, CMT handguards Ballistic Advantage barrels, Geissele, WMD, Aero & Fail Zero BCG's, Pacific Tool and Gauge HS gauge sets (because BA uses PTG reamers ;-) ). My "preferences" have been built over time based on performance, availability, pricing and parts longevity. The "accuracy" attained is really dependent on my assembly process in both the builds and my loads, but I can say they all meet the "MOM" at minimum and all exceed it as well. More importantly, they go BANG when they are supposed to. If I had to say which is the one I use the most, it would be my 10.1" 300BO pistol build.

The only "hand" I trust to build my weapons is the hand that wipes my ass........

Hobo

Not an AR per se but my Robinson XCR-M has been top notch for me.

FN carbine, durable and reliable.

Hobo Hilton said:

The only "hand" I trust to build my weapons is the hand that wipes my ass........

Hobo

Click to expand...

That's the way I feel. The purchase of tools was a setback, but well worth it.

Colt Canada SAS IUR 10". Rumour is that the Brits spent more on the test program for the rifle than the contract value of the first buy.

Sadly it's now a paperwieght thanks to our govt.

LRRPF52 said:

With the caveat that you have the same tools and gauges that a reputable manufacturer has.

They have bins of parts they can inspect and reject before letting them go into the guns.

Most home builders aren’t even aware of the critical dimensions within the carrier, around the bolt, and in the extension that form the basis of the TDP. Same goes for chambers. A good set of gauges goes a long way if you’re a DIY type.

There is a good argument for buying complete guns from reputable manufacturers who use gauges and proven materials, processes, and good tooling during manufacturing and assembly.

All but one of my ARs is DIY. Over the past 4 decades, I’ve learned why certain things are the way they are, most of which I was totally ignorant of for the first 2 decades, even when spending inordinate amounts of time studying the AR-15.

There are top-tier manufacturers who make basic mistakes with things like carrier keys, LPKs, barrel extensions, and bolts, and they do it intentionally thinking they’re doing something better than Mil-Spec.

There are so many lessons people are learning the hard way after deviating from processes and materials that were discovered for a reason.

Click to expand...

I genuinely like your posts and you are spot on 99% of the time but on this one, hard pass. Most of this stuff is so commoditized a blind squirrel could build one. There is no voodoo magic involved here and like you, own factory guns but also have plenty of DIY home brews with zero issues through multiple barrel changes from usage. I do agree that one should use reputable parts from reputable vendors however.

Downtown said:

I have a couple mid 90s Bushmasters that have quite a few rounds on them. That was certainly a totally different company. Remember when it was only ABC for ARs? Armalite, Bushmaster, Colt. Man, time really flies.

Click to expand...

I remember the ABC rule.
Most of the Bushy people went to create windham when they got bought in the Remington mess.

I build all of mine as well as all my friends ar's. I prefer to pick the quality parts I want and rely on my own building skills to ensure a proper functioning rifle.

I prefer to build, every component gets inspected by me. I know what's in it, I know the life expectancy with heavy and normal use, I know that I have to change nothing.

That said, my work rifle is an LWRC DI gun wearing a a Geissele SSA trigger, Aimpoint T2, and Surefire Scout. It just runs... Dirty, dry, wet, sandy, muddy etc. I don't mind banging it around in my car, while it isn't a cheap gun, it isn't expensive either. I run 77 gr. Black hills in it, still holds 1 moa or under if I do my part.

I love KAC, Noveske, LaRue, Barrett, the list goes on and on... Find a respected manufacturer that is in your budget range and pull the trigger. If not, build the beast.

Just my .02 - Fly

Love my radian model one. bought and sold many ARs looking for MY perfect AR. Its the radian. little heavy but other than that end of the world reliable and sub moa out of a 14.5 barrel. Great ambi function. 45degree safety. even come with a pws buffer tube. And its the best looking AR out there in my opinion if aesthetics matter. hard to find anything to nitpick except weight. but than again I appreciate an overly solid rifle.

LMT New Zealand Reference Rifle

Probably BCM
But my PSA builds for the most part have been great. A few dogs.
Any rifle that gives me trouble gets fixed and given to one of the kids.
Every thing in the safe goes pew pew when asked to.

Anderson lower
PSA 10.5" upper

think i have 3-4,000 rounds through this guy and has given me 0 issues.

RUTGERS95 said:

I genuinely like your posts and you are spot on 99% of the time but on this one, hard pass. Most of this stuff is so commoditized a blind squirrel could build one. There is no voodoo magic involved here and like you, own factory guns but also have plenty of DIY home brews with zero issues through multiple barrel changes from usage. I do agree that one should use reputable parts from reputable vendors however.

Click to expand...

Bash parts together, absolutely. Anyone can do that and most do. It will look like an AR-15-type object when finished, but will it run?

You see it over the past decade + where the most focus is on what kind of cool furniture or receivers the person selected, or what trick finish is on the BCG, or something other than the barrel, BCG, gas block, and gas tube fit to the carrier key. Anytime I see someone’s build list and you have to really look hard to find the barrel and bolt in there, you know what I’m talking about.

I’ve had to fix so many of those, I lost count. Main issues I’ve seen and continue to see:

Aluminum gas blocks on CLGS or MLGS, (though thankfully this is less and less of a thing now)
Nitrided extractors snapping (too brittle)
Improperly-installed gas blocks
Gas tube binding/clipping
Wrong chamber jamming M193 into the lands
All 3 carrier bores too large causing mass gas leakage into the fire control pocket and short-stroke malfs
Way too large gas ports (this is more common than not)
Barrel extensions that don’t even come close to TDP dimensions...causing bolt lug shearing/grinding when trying to go into battery or unlocking
YFS carrier key fasteners snapping/coming loose-more gas leakage/short stroke
Nitrided/exotic hard finish carrier keys eating gas tube flanges and causing short-stroke
Pistol grip screw threads not drilled and tapped all the way
Receiver faces out of square from anodizing causing off-axis barrels and uneven bolt lug lock-up
Extensions not torqued on fully
“Mil-Spec” RETs too narrow or too large
Zinc-plated detents garbage
Soft hammers and triggers
Jacked-up disconnectors with slanted hook surfaces
Sharp and almost-proud ejectors that shred brass for sport
Extractor lips not relief-cut per TDP (which like to hold onto brass and not let it go)
Firing pins out of spec/not hard enough/pitted firing pin tips result
Garbage cam pins undersized that allow slop and galling of the cam pin body against the cam helix in the carrier
Breeches not cone-ramped (with barrel mfg stamps still visible)
6061 charge handles that snap
Muzzle threads all over the map for concentricity and squareness
Dudes clamping in the upper to install or remove muzzle devices with cheater bars (often with their “gunsmith’s” help)
I could go on...

A DIY builder can combine some or all of these problem parts into the most cool-looking Imitation-15, get the receivers and handguard Cerakoted, then post up pics of them all over the net talking about flawless reliability, but when they show up to courses, they immediately rip-fart the bed on spastic bowel cyclic rate.

There are a lot of worthless parts out there that should be scrapped, not assembled into a Vismod. Most DIY-builders just don’t have the ability to identify these parts because it’s relatively new to them. Even experienced builders aren’t aware of a lot of the critical specs inside the carrier, barrel extension or materials for extractors and other parts, and they have no way of testing them other than assembling and rolling the dice with shooting.

It’s why the old advice of maybe assembling your lower and slapping on a reputable-built upper still holds true. Just be selective on where you get the LPK from and RET. Drop in one of the many after-market higher quality triggers or an ALG FCG to avoid the common problems with factory semi auto FCGs.

There are several assembly methods that the more-informed builder can use to build a reliable upper with a quality barrel, gas block, gas tube fit, BCG, upper receiver, barrel nut, and handguard. Most builders are not aware of these methods, and are already validated in the visual product of their limited labor. How many times have we heard how easy it is to assemble an AR-15?

Now to assemble a reliable, accurate AR-15, that is a much different story.