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Ruger Precision Rimfire

So.... I read through 35 pages and have come up with the following steps for increasing accuracy...

1. Bed the action with foil tape? Has anyone had bad luck with this or does it always yield no change or better?
2. Mess with action screw torque, setting the front one to 30-35 in lbs and then mess with the rear screw torque.
3. New barrel. Most people seem to see improvements, a few I have seen posted no change or worse groups?
4. I only use 10 round mags, but reducing magazine play (especially in higher capacity mags) by either replacing the plunger with a KIDD plunger or the tab of epoxy on the magazine trick..
5. Reduce pressure on the stock as best as possible...
6. Reduce trigger pull weight or replace trigger with Timney.

Did I miss anything or does anyone have any corrections on my statements or any additional tips/tricks?

My gun shoots roughly MOA or just over MOA at 50 yards but reaching out to 100 is terrible! Like 2.5" groups at best. I did step 1 last night and will shoot this weekend to see how it does, also messing with the action screw torques. I have a new ER Shaw barrel on the way as well as the KIDD plunger (even though I really dont need it), but figure any reduction in magazine play is a bonus.
I think I've done everything you lined out plus a little more.
I bed my action with the tin from a pop can and shimmed the sides of the block that the back of the magazine clips into. This action tightened up the magazine lockup plus gave a better bedding for the action. after I put a Shaw barrel on mine, I went back and using some Devcon, I skim bedded over the pop can tin. On the back of the barrel there are cutouts in the barrel that fit into two tabs in the action. These cutouts and tabs act to align the barrel in the action, but I thought they may also act as a form of a recoil lug, so I made sure I put the Devcon in this area so it had a tight fit. The tin with the skim of Devcon over it gave me a bedding that is continuous on the entire action.

Some find the rifle is a little more accurate with the thread protector off the barrel. The way the thread protector is made and goes on the barrel forms a little chamber at the end of the muzzle. I enlarged the hole in the thread protector and my rifle shoots the same now with or without the protector in place.

The Shaw barrel most defiantly improved the accuracy. I think the reason for this was the match chamber in the Shaw barrel verses the "Sporting" chamber in the factory barrel. When I chamber a round in the Shaw, the rifling engraves the first driving band on the bullet, so the barrel/rifling holds the round concentric to the bore. In the factory barrel, with it's generous chamber, the only thing that holds the round anywhere close to bore concentricity is the ejector holding the round to the bolt face, and/or a build up the carbon ring in the chamber, all of this is not conducive to repeatable accuracy. If the carbon ring isn't uniform, or you get a little carbon on the bolt face, the round isn't held straight in the bore. Further, in a sporting chamber, the only thing that allows pressure to build before the bullet begins to move into the barrel is the crimp on the bullet. With a match chamber that engraves the bullet, pressure has to build to a level that both overcomes the bullet crimp and the resistance of the rifling engravement on the bullet. My velocities with the Shaw barrel are both higher (about 20 fps faster) and have a lower standard deviation in velocity than with the factory barrel, and I attribute this to the extra resistance the rifling engravement has on retarding the release of the bullet from it's case.

I also use Butler Creek Magazines as I feel they do a better job of feeding the rounds straight into the chamber.

I also added a two stage Timiney trigger, but I don't know if that has helped with improving measurable accuracy. I mostly shoot for groups at 50 yards but with all the things I've done to my rifle, the groups at farther ranges have improved, but I as I haven't measured them, but they look smaller.
 
Nice write up! So once you put the Shaw on and noticed the improved accuracy, did you mess with the thread protector on that one too or is that the one you refer to when you said you enlarged the hole? I wouldnt mind just leaving the thread protector as is and not running a muzzle device as long as it doesnt negatively effect accuracy.
 
Nice write up! So once you put the Shaw on and noticed the improved accuracy, did you mess with the thread protector on that one too or is that the one you refer to when you said you enlarged the hole? I wouldnt mind just leaving the thread protector as is and not running a muzzle device as long as it doesnt negatively effect accuracy.
I had already enlarged the hole in the thread protector before I got the Shaw barrel. If you still have the factory barrel, and if Ruger is still using the same protector, look at how it matches up with the end of the barrel. The inner diameter of the protector forms a little chamber between it and the end of the muzzle. I slightly enlarged the interior diameter of the protector. My thinking was gas would escape from the muzzle then swirl around in the chamber and cause problems with the bullet. By enlarging the interior diameter, it allow the gas to escape in a more linier manner.
Who knows if I'm right, but it didn't hurt things and as I said, there was no difference between shooting with or without the protector on after I did this.
 
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Have you tried different ammo? I didn’t see this mentioned in your write up. Seems like a lot of steps and cost to go through. Plus you void warranty if you modify the chassis. I tried a number of different brands of ammo, browning and Winchester Std. Velocity “target” as well Remington and actually found that federal high velocity copper dusted and lead rounds shot the best. .5” or better at 50 and average <2” at 100, which is good enough to get 6-8” plate.
What are you using for optics?

plus changing barrel takes you out of base class in NRL22, if you are planning to compete. However if I recall the trigger can be replaced and still be in base class

do you guys break your barrel in? 1-round clean 10x, 3-rounds clean 5x and 5-rounds clean 5x. Just because it’s a 22LR doesn’t mean it shouldn’t be treated like a center fire rifle. Definitely suggest doing this to the Shaw barrel. I did this on my Shaw barrel on my 10-22 it’s a tack driver

also by the time you buy the ruger, Shaw barrel and timney trigger group aren’t you close to a Kidd?
Enjoy and ring the steel!
 
Have you tried different ammo? I didn’t see this mentioned in your write up. Seems like a lot of steps and cost to go through. Plus you void warranty if you modify the chassis. I tried a number of different brands of ammo, browning and Winchester Std. Velocity “target” as well Remington and actually found that federal high velocity copper dusted and lead rounds shot the best. .5” or better at 50 and average <2” at 100, which is good enough to get 6-8” plate.
What are you using for optics?

plus changing barrel takes you out of base class in NRL22, if you are planning to compete. However if I recall the trigger can be replaced and still be in base class

do you guys break your barrel in? 1-round clean 10x, 3-rounds clean 5x and 5-rounds clean 5x. Just because it’s a 22LR doesn’t mean it shouldn’t be treated like a center fire rifle. Definitely suggest doing this to the Shaw barrel. I did this on my Shaw barrel on my 10-22 it’s a tack driver

also by the time you buy the ruger, Shaw barrel and timney trigger group aren’t you close to a Kidd?
Enjoy and ring the steel!
I have tried multiple different ammo types.

CCI SV
CCI AR Tactical
CCI Green Tag
CCI Select
CCI Mini Mag
Federal (2 different kinds but dont recall which)
Winchester White Box
WInchester Red Box
Geco Match
SK Rifle Match
Some type of Browning
Blazer
Aguila Super Extra
Aguila (cant remember the type)

None of which would produce acceptable results until I got to the SK stuff which shot WAY better at 50 yards than anything else. Ammo testing at this point is useless since I have a new barrel on the way. I can however still test group sizes with the bedding job and trying different torque settings and see if any tighten up at 50 and 100. Once I find the torque setting it likes and a good bed, the new barrel should only improve things further (I hope).
 
When ammo was available around here, local places only carried basic ammo/buk ammo. Any match grade stuff like Green Tag, Eley, SK all had to be purchased online. That is why I tested a lot of CCI. Plus, I have a good amount of CCI as that is what my Remington 597 prefers. And my Savage B22 likes the green tag, but I only use that gun for 50' indoor rifle league, so I really could probably use any ammo for that as anything should group well at 50 feet lol.
 
Well, a slight hiccup in my plans and my great "deal" on my Shaw barrel. I purchased an ER Shaw barrel from Optics Planet for $195 plus a coupon that brought it down to $187. Well after 3 days of "processing" they cancelled my order stating that my item is illegal to ship. What a joke! Regardless of state, since when is shipping a barrel or any other non-regulated item illegal? They ship AR Parts to me all the time, so how is a bolt action barrel any worse that the numerous AR parts and scopes they have sent to me. Regardless, I am hoping they fix it, but if not, Im back to shopping.
frown.gif


On a side note, still plan to shoot Sunday with the bedding job, so we shall see if there is any difference. I really was looking forward to that Shaw barrel after reading so many good things about it.
 
Good for you, hope it works out as you desire!
Me too! After reading countless forums and watching countless videos, I have no reason to expect anything other than happiness and accuracy from the Shaw barrel. That along with the bedding job will hopefully make this Ruger better than MOA at 50 and my expectations are MOA at 100. I will report back after a few range trips.
 
My new barrel from Shaw instead of Optics Planet is expected to be delivered tomorrow somehow!

1. If thats the case, do I not even waste the ammo testing the bedding job before the barrel install and just install the barrel and head to the range? What would you do? Test barrel and bedding job together or test them on separate outings?

2. For those of you that run ER Shaw barrels or any aftermarket barrel for that matter, do you run a muzzle break or no? Is there any benefit to doing so? Is there any downside? What do you recommend?

3. What do you use for a barrel break in procedure? When should I start shooting groups vs breaking in?
 
I don’t own a Shaw so take this with a grain of salt and I mostly hunt and plink. But I typically clean the barrels when I get them then I go out and shoot them.
Then clean them after the outing.
There are much more knowledgeable people than me and better shots than me but I haven’t seen any difference with my rimfires between doing that and cleaning after the first few rounds for the first 100 rounds through the gun.
 
My new barrel from Shaw instead of Optics Planet is expected to be delivered tomorrow somehow!

1. If thats the case, do I not even waste the ammo testing the bedding job before the barrel install and just install the barrel and head to the range? What would you do? Test barrel and bedding job together or test them on separate outings?

If you test the barrel and bedding job together, you won't know which is making a difference. . . or which is an issues if things are not going as hoped for. Just like when reloading, change one thing at a time so you know what that change does or doesn't do.

If you have one of the newer guns, you may not need to do any bedding at all. I have one of the older ones and I did the aluminum foil bedding of the magazine assembly. Before I did so, the 15 round mag that came with it was a bit loose AND I notices that it wasn't feeding properly (often dinging the driver bands). After doing the bedding, the mag was nice and firm when locked in place AND the mag was better positioned to feed the cartridges without any damage to any part of the bullet; so it helped a lot with consistency.
2. For those of you that run ER Shaw barrels or any aftermarket barrel for that matter, do you run a muzzle break or no? Is there any benefit to doing so? Is there any downside? What do you recommend?

I installed a Shaw barrel quite some time ago and no, I do not run a muzzle break on it. It's a .22LR and the recoil is so small, there's really no point.

However, do feel a tuner will be a benefit, much like it is on my centerfire rifles. I should be receiving one very soon that I plan to mount on my Shaw barrel.

3. What do you use for a barrel break in procedure? When should I start shooting groups vs breaking in?

Yeah, just start shooting. After installing my Shaw barrel I first put 50 copper plated rounds though it with the idea to better break it in than what the lubed bullets would do. The more you shoot, the better's it'll shoot and I'd say it takes 400-500 rounds before it really settles down. IMHO
 
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If you test the barrel and bedding job together, you won't now which is making a difference. . . or which is an issues if things are not going as hoped for. Just like when reloading, change one thing at a time so you know what that change does or doesn't do.

If you have one of the newer guns, you may not need to do any bedding at all. I have one of the older ones and I did the aluminum foil betting of the magazine assembly. Before I did so, the 15 round mag that came with it was a bit loose AND I notices that it wasn't feeding properly (often dinging the driver bands). After doing the bedding, the mag was nice and firm when locked in place AND the mag was better positioned to feed the cartridges without any damage to any part of the bullet; so it helped a lot with consistency.


I installed a Shaw barrel quite some time ago and no, I do not run a muzzle break on it. It's a .22LR and the recoil is so small, there's really no point.

However, do feel a tuner will be a benefit, much like it is on my centerfire rifles. I've should be receiving one very soon that I plan to mount on my Shaw barrel.



Yeah, just start shooting. After installing my Shaw barrel I first put 50 copper plated rounds though it with the idea to better break it in than what the lubed bullets would do. The more you shoot, the better's it'll shoot and I'd say it take 400-500 rounds before it really settles down. IMHO
Awesome! Thank you for your in depth response, that helps a lot!
 
I have tried multiple different ammo types.

CCI SV
CCI AR Tactical
CCI Green Tag
CCI Select
CCI Mini Mag
Federal (2 different kinds but dont recall which)
Winchester White Box
WInchester Red Box
Geco Match
SK Rifle Match
Some type of Browning
Blazer
Aguila Super Extra
Aguila (cant remember the type)

None of which would produce acceptable results until I got to the SK stuff which shot WAY better at 50 yards than anything else. Ammo testing at this point is useless since I have a new barrel on the way. I can however still test group sizes with the bedding job and trying different torque settings and see if any tighten up at 50 and 100. Once I find the torque setting it likes and a good bed, the new barrel should only improve things further (I hope).
I don't have the same rifle. But my rifle was shooting great group with SK long range plus at 50 yards (<0.3"), but I recently found out it doesn't do nearly as well at 100 (~2"). I thought it was my rifle's problem, and then I just tried Eley Match yesterday and I was shooting 0.75" group at 100 yards right away. Even the Eley hunting ammo was doing great. So I blame SK. Sadly I bought almost a thousand rounds of SK already....
 
I don't have the same rifle. But my rifle was shooting great group with SK long range plus at 50 yards (<0.3"), but I recently found out it doesn't do nearly as well at 100 (~2"). I thought it was my rifle's problem, and then I just tried Eley Match yesterday and I was shooting 0.75" group at 100 yards right away. Even the Eley hunting ammo was doing great. So I blame SK. Sadly I bought almost a thousand rounds of SK already....
Hmmmm. I guess I can try another ammo at 100. Also sent you a PM.
 
A little update...

I took the advice of some people both here, on Snipershide and Facebook and change one variable at a time. I did the foil bed and went and shot. I did notice an improvement, subtle at 50 yards, more of an improvement at 100 yards, but the biggest improvement was my group sizes with CCI Standard Velocity from before the bed. I think I can do better as a shooter but I also think the Shaw barrel is still going to benefit me. See most recent groups below. Dont mind some of the MOA callouts and stuff as I messed up the distance when creating some of the groups and didnt want to redo them. Call me lazy.

50 yards with SK Match and CCI Standard Velocity
1 - bazD29J.jpg


50 yards with Eley Match EPS, 1 group of Federal Match HV, 1 group of Aguila Super Extra, and one more group each of SK and CCI SV
2 - YGnSim1.jpg


1st groups at 100 with each ammo, 10 shot groups. The 2nd group at the bottom right labeled SV may not be SV and is possibly the Federal Match HV. I kinda forgot which one I shot there, but that group does not match up to the rest of the SV groups.
4 - s2PRr5l.jpg


3 - tpg2mPY.jpg


I know the bedding did something because at my last outing, the SK Rifle match is the only ammo that would even group. Now I can group the CCI SV pretty well. SK Rifle match does not seem to like to shoot well at 100 yards though. I may use the SK for some plinking with this rifle or maybe for my indoor league in my other rifle, but I think I have to get my hands on some more CCI SV. I wont make up that decision though until the Shaw barrel gets installed.

Any opinions, advice, or things you see based on your experience that I may not know or see?
 
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If cci sv shoots well with your rifle, you should try cci green tag too. It’s basically match grade sv.
 
I will try Green tag again.it didn't shoot well before the bedding, but neither did SV. I love greentag in my Savage, but hate i can't find it. After the new barrel, ill like have another shoot off between SK Rifle Match, CCI SV, Eley Match and CCI Greentag and pick an ammo once and for all.

Does anyone shoot different ammo based on the distance they are shooting like CCI SV at 50, Eley at 100 plus?
 
I will try Green tag again.it didn't shoot well before the bedding, but neither did SV. I love greentag in my Savage, but hate i can't find it. After the new barrel, ill like have another shoot off between SK Rifle Match, CCI SV, Eley Match and CCI Greentag and pick an ammo once and for all.

Does anyone shoot different ammo based on the distance they are shooting like CCI SV at 50, Eley at 100 plus?
I’ve shot both at 100 and both are .8-1.2 moa. I’ve put 5 in 1 hole at 50 with cci sv. Each barrel including the shaw will like different Ammo. my 20 inch Shaw likes federal auto match a lot. I have a ats tuner coming so I can play with the bulk I have. My Shaw is less picky than the factory ruger barrel. It also lowered the es and sd’s on just about everything in my safe by a good margin.
 
My new barrel from Shaw instead of Optics Planet is expected to be delivered tomorrow somehow!

1. If thats the case, do I not even waste the ammo testing the bedding job before the barrel install and just install the barrel and head to the range? What would you do? Test barrel and bedding job together or test them on separate outings?

2. For those of you that run ER Shaw barrels or any aftermarket barrel for that matter, do you run a muzzle break or no? Is there any benefit to doing so? Is there any downside? What do you recommend?

3. What do you use for a barrel break in procedure? When should I start shooting groups vs breaking in?
See my post above 1/20/21. I break in all new barrels the same whether a centerfire or rimfire
 
I will try Green tag again.it didn't shoot well before the bedding, but neither did SV. I love greentag in my Savage, but hate i can't find it. After the new barrel, ill like have another shoot off between SK Rifle Match, CCI SV, Eley Match and CCI Greentag and pick an ammo once and for all.

Does anyone shoot different ammo based on the distance they are shooting like CCI SV at 50, Eley at 100 plus?
I have got the best accuracy with Eley Traget, anything I tried that was CCI from std velocity to Green tag did horrible. Might be something to try but I think Eley target and match are pretty close.
 
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I will try Green tag again.it didn't shoot well before the bedding, but neither did SV. I love greentag in my Savage, but hate i can't find it. After the new barrel, ill like have another shoot off between SK Rifle Match, CCI SV, Eley Match and CCI Greentag and pick an ammo once and for all.

Does anyone shoot different ammo based on the distance they are shooting like CCI SV at 50, Eley at 100 plus?
My ER Shaw does not agree well with CCI anything. Just yesterday I used 20 rounds of leftover CCI standard for a rough sight in and a little trigger time after mounting of the new scope I'm trying out. It reiterated my past experience with it. Once I was close, I pulled a dry patch through the barrel and proceeded to season and tune in zero with Center X. This was rounds 10-15 at 50 yards. Admittly the current lot I have of center X is exceptional in my RPRimfire, consistently MOA at 100 yards pending conditions.
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RPRimfire_RH.jpg
 
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Shouod have came here first and read. Bought an RPRR .22lr yesterday because I finally found one. Shoots worse than my 30+ year old 10/22. 😕
 
seems some guys get lucky, my RPR was inaccurate as well. found the chamber had been cut crooked. i sold it, bought a Vudoo, and now have a CZ 457 Pro Varmint as well. The CZ shoots SK Std very well. Seems in base class price rifles the CZs and Tikkas give u the best chance of getting a good shooter.
 
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Got my scope in from Camera Land
Finally got the screws from Seekins for the ring caps, may have went a little overkill on the rings but oh well.

Accuracy wise the SK and Lapua was best and only ones even decent. The super hyper velocity shit was horrendously inaccurate as expevted but it did shoot flat. I have a brick of SK Standard + in the mail and hope to find some CCI Standard velocity to test too.

Overall I forgot how fun rimfires are.
 

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Thought you said it was junk
Shouod have came here first and read. Bought an RPRR .22lr yesterday because I finally found one. Shoots worse than my 30+ year old 10/22. 😕
Got my scope in from Camera Land
Finally got the screws from Seekins for the ring caps, may have went a little overkill on the rings but oh well.

Accuracy wise the SK and Lapua was best and only ones even decent. The super hyper velocity shit was horrendously inaccurate as expevted but it did shoot flat. I have a brick of SK Standard + in the mail and hope to find some CCI Standard velocity to test too.

Overall I forgot how fun rimfires are.
 
After 8 months of out of stock during to covid, finally got my hands on one. can't wait to shoot it. What scope y'all putting on it for nrl22?
Vortex 6-24 black diamond puts you $25 less than $1050 list price for NRL22 base class. Change barrel and you move to open. NRL22 is 100yd max if I recall

my sarcastic comment is if you add all this stuff to your ruger precision rimfire you might as well by a kidd or voodoo! And then complain that your groups still suck! Lol. It’s all about practice and consistency. Trigger is the fault of poor groups. Learn to do same with trigger every time. If you want to see what I mean shoot a tensions release for archery and take what you learn from that and apply to gun shooting. Don’t anticipate the shot. It should be a surprise every time
 
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Still playing with mine i can hit a 3" gong at 200 meters cci sv
 
My RPR also came with the 30 MOA rail, a quick call to Ruger and they have a 0 MOA in the the mail to me free of charge.
Great customer service.
 
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Today went to play some golf at the range shooting at 100 Yards.
I took my Ruger Precision 17HMR, and my Mossberg 223/556 today.
I placed my target at 100 Yards, and Golf Ball behind target on the hill.
So I fired Mossberg and you can see hit the golf ball flying, shot second golf ball and never found it, it also went flying someplace. I put two rounds into right target to make sure my Vortex scope was still dead on target.
Then came the Ruger, I had two Golf Balls out there, and shot after shot, it seemed I couldn't hit it, tried another golf ball, same thing, so I just unloaded into Left target making sure the Nikon Scope was still zero in, has you can see it was on the money.
So when the range went cold, was going to move the golf balls to another spot.
Low and behold I was hitting them, but shooting 17HMR it didn't have enough power to put a hole in the ball, or move the ball.
Next trip going to paint the balls Orange, easy to see them, since the range has white Coral, hard to see them, and taking Green Tips 556 Ammo.
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Been searching. Seen a few posts but not alot of deffinite answers.

Is there a bore guide that will fit the 22lr RPRR?
 
My rprr won’t eject cases at all. I have tried shimming the mag catch pin and holding the bolt different ways. Ruger sent me a new extractor and positioner spring which didn’t change anything.

Are people’s rifles ejecting cases or are y’all dumping them out/removing the mag to drop the empty cases? Totally frustrated with it and don’t really want to send it in. It is perfectly accurate but I am tired of it not ejecting.

31293751-EEBF-4078-8568-3D177C82D89D.jpeg
 
My rprr won’t eject cases at all. I have tried shimming the mag catch pin and holding the bolt different ways. Ruger sent me a new extractor and positioner spring which didn’t change anything.

Are people’s rifles ejecting cases or are y’all dumping them out/removing the mag to drop the empty cases? Totally frustrated with it and don’t really want to send it in. It is perfectly accurate but I am tired of it not ejecting.

View attachment 7621214
Had the same issue with mine, called Ruger and they suggested sending rifle in for inspection
They wound up replacing the bolt assembly. Ruger Customer service is top notch! They issued me a mailing label fixed the problem and sent it back free of charge. Turn around time was 9 days back in my poession.
 
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My rprr won’t eject cases at all. I have tried shimming the mag catch pin and holding the bolt different ways. Ruger sent me a new extractor and positioner spring which didn’t change anything.

Are people’s rifles ejecting cases or are y’all dumping them out/removing the mag to drop the empty cases? Totally frustrated with it and don’t really want to send it in. It is perfectly accurate but I am tired of it not ejecting.

View attachment 7621214
I second sending it in.
My boys is still having issues with extraction after sending it in but they did replace a bunch of parts. Sad thing is I am hesitant because it’s shooting so well.
 
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I second sending it in.
My boys is still having issues with extraction after sending it in but they did replace a bunch of parts. Sad thing is I am hesitant because it’s shooting so well.
After a few hours of bending the positioner spring different ways I finally have mine ejecting regularly. The bends put more pressure on the case as it’s held on the bolt. I put about 150 rds through it and only had 2 fail to eject vs 100% the day before. Working great with the bx15 and also new and old 10 rounders.

Still going to send it in but I’m going to put the non working positioner spring back on for their inspection. Mine is also shooting as good as I can hope for at $450 with low/mid grade ammo. I want a b14r or cz but don’t know if they will really shoot $500 better.
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After a few hours of bending the positioner spring different ways I finally have mine ejecting regularly. The bends put more pressure on the case as it’s held on the bolt. I put about 150 rds through it and only had 2 fail to eject vs 100% the day before. Working great with the bx15 and also new and old 10 rounders.

Still going to send it in but I’m going to put the non working positioner spring back on for their inspection. Mine is also shooting as good as I can hope for at $450 with low/mid grade ammo. I want a b14r or cz but don’t know if they will really shoot $500 better.
View attachment 7621913
what optic is this??
 
Vortex Strike Eagle.

It looks like where you have the scope mounted you are losing the 20 MOA that the factory installed mount provides. Go with separate rings versus the all in one mount
1) It's not my rifle

2) Why would it lose the 20 MOA from the base, unless the scope mount has negative MOA? It wouldn't matter if separate rings or a one piece mount is used, the whole factory base is angled at 20 MOA.
 
Still fighting groups on this gun. I did discover today that ANY pressure on the bipod drastically changes POA/POI.. is this common on these little guns?
 

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I have a SAP 10” MLOK ARCA rail on mine and no problems. I installed the mlok rail so I could use my Warne Skyline bipod that’s also ARCA that I use on my PRS rifle. Prior to the addition of the ARCA rail I experienced no impact issues when using a sling mount adapter for my Harris bipod S-BRM
 
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I have a SAP 10” MLOK ARCA rail on mine and no problems. I installed the mlok rail so I could use my Warne Skyline bipod that’s also ARCA that I use on my PRS rifle. Prior to the addition of the ARCA rail I experienced no impact issues when using a sling mount adapter for my Harris bipod S-BRM
Thank you. I'm at a bit of a loss what causes the huge swings. I have fully stripped the rifle and torqued everything twice. I tried the foil tape bedding and see no improvement, if anything it's a little worse.
 
I’ve been pleased with my RPR rimfire. Accuracy was great out of the box. Sub MOA 50Yds/MOA 100yds. Using vortex 6-24x50 diamondback. I will be adding a Timney 2-stage straight trigger shortly from Anarchy. I blame my zingers on ammo and factory trigger.

I sight in from bench with a Sinclair heavy varmint w/windage and custom Edgewood Hunter front bag that fits my PRS with ARCA rail and less sand to get a good squeeze and tracking and with a Warne Skyline bipod and solo WC light when practicing
 
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