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Which model Tikka?

gmansbu

Private
Minuteman
Feb 28, 2021
5
1
New Jersey
This will be my first precision rifle and I’m leaving towards the Tikka chambered in 6.5 creedmoor. I’m also interested in the KRG bravo chassis. This rifle will only be used at the range. No hunting or competition.

This being the case which model Tikka should I get? I looked on their website and it’s overwhelming with the number of different/similar models.

Thanks in advance for the help.
 
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A lot of people go for the CTR.
I've always leaned towards more traditional hunting style rifles, so bought the Super Varmint in 6.5 Creedmoor.
I have no regrets, it's an outrageously accurate rifle.
I will be buying a GRS BiFrost chassis for it, shortly.
Years ago, I owned a Tikka 25-06, and that was superb as well.
I've had friendly comps with mates that own the TAC A1'S and CTR's, they all shoot very well. It came down to wind reading ability, though I did like the A1 chassis.
Good glass and rings are a must.
Tikka make bloody good "production" rifles, so compliment them with good glass.
Enjoy!
 
2100 rounds thru my Tac A1 and I would say it’s a great starter rifle. $1600 for the rifle, $400 spuhr, had the scope already, added a zero angle Ergo grip and violá. Still shooting 1/3 MOA w factory ammo.
Oops I forgot that I added an APA lil bastard.
 
Tikka.jpg



Tikka T3X in 6.5 Phenomenal rifle. Chopped the barrel to 16 inches though. Grabbed a Murphy Precision base.
 
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Depends what country you are in too. That may or may not limit your choices.

CTR is still probably your best bet. It's a better value than most the other configurations.

The KRG Bravo can be inleted for AICS mags or the CTR mags. I like the CTR mags over the AICS ones personally.
 
Been following your query across the different threads, definitely glad to see you went Tikka in 6.5. There’s a guy asking a similar question on a FB group I follow, but for a hunting rifle, and he ended up getting a Benelli Lupo in .308. You just can’t save some people from themselves, I swear.
 
tikka CTR, bub. I’d go with higher trim KRG chassis to avoid the polymer chassis though. Maybe the whiskey 3. Also depends if you wanna run the AICS mags or ctr mags. I’ve heard rumors about the AICS mags not working in the bravo chassis.
 
AICS work great in my Bravo + T3x anecdotally

I've never run CTR mags so I can't comment on them, but AICS are great mags and resale is easy.
 
The TacA1 chassis is fantastic. Add a bag rider, arca rail and a strek bolt knob and its perfect. CTR mags are fantastic and way better than AICS mags IMO. The mlock rails also accepy a bunch if different weights to keep recoil down and make spotting your hits easier.

There is one other small issue i have with the A1 chassis but we are currently making a part/delete for it.

Have had both the bravo and wc3 chassis. Like the A1 way better than both.
 
Tikka T3X Varmint in 223 or 6.5CM - get local gunsmith to thread - put into KRG Bravo - add brake of your choice.
 
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Depends what country you are in too. That may or may not limit your choices.

CTR is still probably your best bet. It's a better value than most the other configurations.

The KRG Bravo can be inleted for AICS mags or the CTR mags. I like the CTR mags over the AICS ones personally.
honest question, I'm not a tikka guru, why do you prefer ctr mags? thanks
 
honest question, I'm not a tikka guru, why do you prefer ctr mags? thanks
CTR mags are a double stack, single feed. AICS are kind of a 1.5 stack. So for the same 10 rounds, the AICS is a little longer. The CTR mags are also $65 on bid daddy Unlimited which is a great price, on par with MDT mags. I will say sometimes that 10th round can be a bit of a PITA to get in
 
CTR mags are a double stack, single feed. AICS are kind of a 1.5 stack. So for the same 10 rounds, the AICS is a little longer. The CTR mags are also $65 on bid daddy Unlimited which is a great price, on par with MDT mags. I will say sometimes that 10th round can be a bit of a PITA to get in
ah, the double stack, that makes sense, never had one in my hand, so I learned a little something, thanks
 
For specific models on a CTR look for these
Jrtx382 (20" blued)
Jrtx382ca (24" blued)
Jrtxc382s (20" stainless)
Jrtxc382cas (24" stainless)
 
I’d lean heavily towards the option that comes threaded, if that’s what you’re down to. Between the excellent brakes and cans out there, it’s just really nice to have the option from the factory. Threading by a smith is ~$100 in my experience, plus the time it’s away.

Edit to add: Also, stainless, but this is mostly just my personal preference. Little rust spots drive me crazy, even though they polish right off with some steel wool. And it’s not hard to ruin a bore if you don’t realize the gun’s wet from, say, shooting in cold conditions and condensing moisture when it goes in the case. To my everlasting chagrin.
 
2100 rounds thru my Tac A1 and I would say it’s a great starter rifle. $1600 for the rifle, $400 spuhr, had the scope already, added a zero angle Ergo grip and violá. Still shooting 1/3 MOA w factory ammo.
Oops I forgot that I added an APA lil bastard.

Basically this

Minus I went with the MPA grip.

And the difference between this and a “high end” is pretty much just swapping a faster barrel, and even that’s not super needed.
 
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Great feedback so far. Thanks everyone. Another question I have left is the length of the barrel. I’m located in New Jersey, so I can’t have a suppressor. I think my only option is muzzle break or nothing at all.
 
honest question, I'm not a tikka guru, why do you prefer ctr mags? thanks

For me it was the feeding "smoothness", I shot my first CTR stock for a while then dropped it into a chassis that used AICS mags. There was a good difference in feeding smoothness/feel.

Reliability was 100% for either one, just keep in mind there's also a lot more factors to consider when making the decision, but for me I just like the CTR mags (which are technically TRG-22 pattern mags, and they use to actually include a TRG mag with the tikka back in the day which is hilarious because the mag itself retails for like $200)
 
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What do people think about the Roughtec? Downside seems to be the fluted barrel, but it does come with the fluted bolt and 5/8 threaded barrel.
 
That is a hunting gun with a newer stock.

You want the heavier barrel of the A1.

Fluted bolt is cosmetic shit its irrelevent.
 
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Great feedback so far. Thanks everyone. Another question I have left is the length of the barrel. I’m located in New Jersey, so I can’t have a suppressor. I think my only option is muzzle break or nothing at all.

I’m sorry to hear that :(
 
Great feedback so far. Thanks everyone. Another question I have left is the length of the barrel. I’m located in New Jersey, so I can’t have a suppressor. I think my only option is muzzle break or nothing at all.
24”
Tikka barrels are notorious for being “slow” compared to an aftermarket tube, the extra length gets some velocity back.
It also puts a little more distance between you and the muzzle brake. Every little bit helps.
 
I shot CTR, varmint and Tikka Tac. If you are thinking about shooting beyond 300 meters, I would go definitely with a varmint or Tac. If you go with a varmint I would change the stock to an MDT or other chassis system. Once you burn out the factory barrel you will still keep the great Tikka action and chassis. Don't forget about the scope and mount- scope (e.g. Kahles or March) and mount (e.g. Spuhr) will cost more than the rifle itself. But there is no way around that if you want to win matches.
 
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I recommend the Tikka 3X Lite stainless in .270. Easy to carry with a safari sling and manageable recoil. The Browning X-Bolt Stainless Stalker is also something to look into.
He specifically said no hunting strictly precision so I wouldn’t go sporter barrel. Ctr and tac are great I’m also very happy with the varmint barrel.
 
I would +1 on the T3x Varmint in a Bravo or other chassis or stock (primarily to get away from Tikka mags), or just run it factory stock.

I ran the Sterk, but prefer the factory bolt handle. Coming from AI, it actually didn't feel "right".

Only change out if you dislike the factory bolt handle.

Get the gun, run it like from the factory (unless you want to run a can-better to save hearing iMO)... and see how you like it before making changes. I actually liked the factory plastic stock as it fit me just fine. Changed out because it didn't work for my son.
 
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This will be my first precision rifle and I’m leaving towards the Tikka chambered in 6.5 creedmoor. I’m also interested in the KRG bravo chassis. This rifle will only be used at the range. No hunting or competition.

This being the case which model Tikka should I get? I looked on their website and it’s overwhelming with the number of different/similar models.

Thanks in advance for the help.
I had Tikka T3 x CTR 24 inch barrel but sold and bought LH Tikka t3x TAC A1 be close to the same price after you place in KRG stock.
 
I purchased a stainless CTR three years ago, added 20 MOA base, $10 trigger spring. Surefire brake for my SOCOM can and shot it 600 rounds. Great lightweight (9 1/2 pounds,) rifle. My barrel is fast, 2710 fps w 140 match ammo and up to 2825-50 fps w RL16 reloads. I purchased KRG Bravo w spigot which adds 1 1/2 pound. You might look at a Tikka UPR stock before restocking w a Bravo. Not as versatile as a chassis but has an adjustable comb.
 

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Moving from a Tac A1 into a Bravo + optic base + investment into AICS magazines, I probably start with a Seekins Havak Bravo if starting all over again.
 
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This will be my first precision rifle and I’m leaving towards the Tikka chambered in 6.5 creedmoor. I’m also interested in the KRG bravo chassis. This rifle will only be used at the range. No hunting or competition.

This being the case which model Tikka should I get? I looked on their website and it’s overwhelming with the number of different/similar models.

Thanks in advance for the help.
I got two Tikka Tac’s. One in .308 that shoots out to 1000yards with 175 Sierra match kings. Then got another in 6.5 late last year that after 40-50 rounds with Hornady Match ELD shoots phenomenally. The Tac stock works well for me.
1615458614791.png
 
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24”
Tikka barrels are notorious for being “slow” compared to an aftermarket tube, the extra length gets some velocity back.
It also puts a little more distance between you and the muzzle brake. Every little bit helps.
Heard that on the podcast. I have tried to develop several fast rounds for my .308 with 155gr and they have all been 5hit. It really hates GGG, 155gr. However slower 168gr (ELD Match) work amazingly well.
 
@Conkeydonk: What length barrel did you get your Tac A1 6.5 Creed in - 20 or 24 in, and why?
Hey Doberman, both mine are in 24”. With the .308 I wrongly or rightly thought longer was better....? Which is stupid of me not to look into the science/maths, I just went ahead with it. The 6.5 is 24” too but that had even less reasoning applied to it other than: the lady at the store was pi55ed off so sold it below cost. Right place, right time....?
 
CTR or Varmint. Varmint barrels are better and faster IMO, but not threaded for brakes or supressors which sucks.
New models will have options in 6.5 PRC which I think is worth waiting for.
 
Someone also suggested looking at Seekins Havak Bravo. I ended up with that in 6.5 PRC rather than waiting or building one off another Tikka action. It's also a great rifle. Not as buttery smooth action for sure, but mine shoots really well. It's also nice to be able to go from my 22LR vudoo in a Bravo to my 223 Tikka Varmint also in a Bravo to the 6.5PRC also in a bravo. Same LOP, same ergonomics.... It fits for me.