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Best Chronograph out there?

S

Sgtsideways

Sergeant of the Hide
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 7, 2021
311
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Usa
Not happy with the labradar as it just seems to be too quirky, even with the external trigger it is very inconsistent in performance. Any suggestions?
I'm looking at magnetospeed, but not sure how it will do with tbac 338 ultra. A reliable chrono is sorely needed, so any guidance would really help me.
 
Sgtsideways said:
Not happy with the labradar as it just seems to be too quirky, even with the external trigger it is very inconsistent in performance. Any suggestions?
I'm looking at magnetospeed, but not sure how it will do with tbac 338 ultra. A reliable chrono is sorely needed, so any guidance would really help me.
Click to expand...
What's the rest of your setup for it and what are your shooting range conditions?
 
6.5SH said:
What's the rest of your setup for it and what are your shooting range conditions?
Click to expand...
Using a 1000 yds range, but I'm wanting to test reloads at 100 yrds. Mrad with 6.5 Creedmore, 338 LM. NF 3.5-15x nxs scope. Thank you.
 
Is the range wide open? Baffled? Lots of clutter within 50 feet?

As to the setup, how are you mounting and aiming the LabRadar?
 
Magnetospeed has consistently worked for me, even with weird ass baffle systems
1616549810613.png
 
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Takashi said:
Magnetospeed has consistently worked for me, even with weird ass baffle systems
View attachment 7589244
Click to expand...
Is why I asked, that type of range isn't radar friendly. There IS a way to aim the radar that can work, but can be material dependent. That one is way too reflective.
 
6.5SH said:
Is the range wide open? Baffled? Lots of clutter within 50 feet?

As to the setup, how are you mounting and aiming the LabRadar?
Click to expand...
Trees about 100ft away from me on both sides. No clutter otherwise.
Labradar is mounted on a strong tripod with the external trigger on the pict. rail. I've used the straw for aiming, placed the device close to the barrel in positions both behind the muzzle brake and in front. Sometimes it will be working, then just stop taking readings with no change in location of the device. It's been a real frustrating thing to use.
 
Sgtsideways said:
Trees about 100ft away from me on both sides. No clutter otherwise.
Labradar is mounted on a strong tripod with the external trigger on the pict. rail. I've used the straw for aiming, placed the device close to the barrel in positions both behind the muzzle brake and in front. Sometimes it will be working, then just stop taking readings with no change in location of the device. It's been a real frustrating thing to use.
Click to expand...
Sounds like you are doing the right things, especially aiming. Does the unit give a failed to track error or just no response at all when it stops reading?
 
A shotmarker placed just in front of your barrel, on a target frame without the actual target, becomes a chronograph. It won't affect your POI like v3, and not finicky like labradar (maybe).
 
www.wiserprecision.com

Original Chrono Mount

This product has been replaced by the Chrono Mount PRO The Wiser Precision Chrono Mount is the most advanced system for mounting your MagnetoSpeed v3 and Sporter chronographs. The Chrono Mount isolates the chronograph from the muzzle of your firearm and supplies ample adjustability to work...
www.wiserprecision.com www.wiserprecision.com

Get this mount and you don’t have to worry about POI shifts and swapping out the bayo.
 
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Out of several hundred attempts the Magneto V3 has failed to give me a reading exactly 1 time. It was a Pain Killer muzzle brake and I had to adjust the bayonet by a few inches. It sucks to mount a chrono to your barrel but they work 99.9% of the time and the readings are super accurate. We take the readings at 100 yards and get impacts past 1000 on the next shot. I wish Labradar would actually function 🙁
 
Johnny00K said:
Out of several hundred attempts the Magneto V3 has failed to give me a reading exactly 1 time. It was a Pain Killer muzzle brake and I had to adjust the bayonet by a few inches. It sucks to mount a chrono to your barrel but they work 99.9% of the time and the readings are super accurate. We take the readings at 100 yards and get impacts past 1000 on the next shot. I wish Labradar would actually function 🙁
Click to expand...
Do you own a LabRadar?

Is a LabRadar the best choice for every situation? No. There are conditions where the Magnetospeed is the better choice.
Which one offers the most accurate data and the MOST data? LabRadar, it isn't even a competition there.
Which is the most desirable? Search the PX here, the WTS Magnetospeed is 20x the number of LabRadar. The WTB is the reverse.
 
@6.5SH I do not own a Labradar as I have never seen one function over half of the time. The POI shift has been way less of a pain in my ass as the Labradar next to me has been. More than once we've given up on Labradar and just mounted a V3 so we could get any fucking data and leave the gun range. I don't want to fight a chrono at a gun range when I should be out in the mountains shooting long range. The V3 has proven to be faster at this for us. I wish there was a better alternative.
 
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Johnny00K said:
@6.5SH I do not own a Labradar as I have never seen one function over half of the time. The POI shift has been way less of a pain in my ass as the Labradar next to me has been. More than once we've given up on Labradar and just mounted a V3 so we could get any fucking data and leave the gun range. I don't want to fight a chrono at a gun range when I should be out in the mountains shooting long range. The V3 has proven to be faster at this for us. I wish there was a better alternative.
Click to expand...
Then I suggest your friend learn how to use his. Unless it is the handful of scenarios where the Magnetospeed is the better choice it is 99% operator error.

The OP has a LabRadar so let's help him figure out where the problem is. Right now the answer does not seem to be buy another chrono. If his situation was a range such as Takashi posted pics of I'd agree that changing units is the wiser move.
 
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@6.5SH It wasn't just one unit, it was several. We've come to the conclusion that some work and some do not. @Takashi You people back east are extra!!! Those baffles are crazy. In WY our range is a tin lean-to with wood benches of inconvenient height and the building is missing 1 out of 2 doors. Also, we don't have things like RO's, or rules, or really anything other than piles of dirt and tires and some steel.
 
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Sell the Labrador and buy a Magnetospeed. Too simple. The V3s are the most reliable. There are plenty of ways, as mentioned, to run one and not have POI shift if that’s your goal. It takes less than 1 minute to put one on and have good velocity data. They are accurate, durable, extremely simple to use, and not finicky. They are also much smaller=less shit to pack. You will be very happy with the V3. Nobody bitches about their V3.
 
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Johnny00K said:
@6.5SH It wasn't just one unit, it was several. We've come to the conclusion that some work and some do not. @Takashi You people back east are extra!!! Those baffles are crazy. In WY our range is a tin lean-to with wood benches of inconvenient height and the building is missing 1 out of 2 doors. Also, we don't have things like RO's, or rules, or really anything other than piles of dirt and tires and some steel.
Click to expand...
We have ranges of both flavors, this one just happens to be closest to home so I can do a quick zero/chrono/load development before work.
 
Magneto is great. Takes a little to setup. I’ve also used some radar chronos. Just depends on what you want to spend. I’ve used the cheaper Caldwell ones in the past and found the speeds to be a little off. But decent for the price.
 
I have a Caldwell, works 99% of the time, 10 years old, shoot about 30-50 rounds a week, always shoot over it.
Consistant as can be. Can shoot for groups nothing attached to the gun. Have my own range no one to hold up while i set it up.
Have a tripod with elevation set and locked to hold the unit. It literally takes my 3 minutes to set it up and go. Think i paid $120 for it.
 
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dzander said:
I have a Caldwell, works 99% of the time, 10 years old, shoot about 30-50 rounds a week, always shoot over it.
Consistant as can be. Can shoot for groups nothing attached to the gun. Have my own range no one to hold up while i set it up.
Have a tripod with elevation set and locked to hold the unit. It literally takes my 3 minutes to set it up and go. Think i paid $120 for it.
Click to expand...
Have you ever had any velocity issues when shooting long ranges? The Caldwell I used was off by like 100fps. So when shooting long ranges the impact was off. I never noticed it at first when shooting 200yards and in. I agree with you though. It always worked and was a great price.
 
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6.5SH said:
Sounds like you are doing the right things, especially aiming. Does the unit give a failed to track error or just no response at all when it stops reading?
Click to expand...
Yes to both of you questions 6.5. (I should also add that there is an MRAD muzzle brake that directs the blast to the rear, and I am shooting paper target on plywood. No steel for tests). I can shoot the first round and it will record most of the time, maybe even get it to record some other shots. All of a sudden, it will either stop recording with the screen no longer highlighted, or it will give failed to track error.
I've even seen it recording 2 or 3 successive shots, then I go to move the gun after recoil (to the same spot on the bench) and it will generate some totally b.s. number without a shot being fired.
Thanks to all of you for you help.
 
Last edited:
I shoot these yardages every month , generally 3 times a months if i can weather permitting. The targets are 235,300,375,400,800,900,825,875,675,and 715 yards.
When the ground drys up will go to 1000. The targets are steel from about 4.7 moa to about .4 moa. Generally I'm hitting plates about 1-2 moa. When I miss rarely does the spotter give me a elevation change. 90% its wind.
Using a Kestrel sportsman with elite software and the custom drag model for Berger 140 Hybrid target, 6.5mm. Average velocity plugged in at 2774 fps. Im not saying its the best chronograph, i'm sure its not, but it works for me. A better chronograph isn't going to improve my hit ratio, Learning the wind not jerking the trigger and managing the recoil much better will.
 
Sgtsideways said:
Yes to both of you questions 6.5. (I should also add that there is an MRAD muzzle brake that directs the blast to the rear, and I am shooting paper target on plywood. No steel for tests). I can shoot the first round and it will record most of the time, maybe even get it to record some other shots. All of a sudden, it will either stop recording with the screen no longer highlighted, or it will give failed to track error.
I've even seen it recording 2 or 3 successive shots, then I go to move the gun after recoil (to the same spot on the bench) and it will generate some totally b.s. number without a shot being fired.
Thanks to all of you for you help.
Click to expand...
Rearward vented brakes can be a pain. If you can't find a position that has 6-12" of offset fully out of the blast wake their guide shows using a wood baffle between the radar and the gun.

I have multiple brakes and re-purposed a "corner" built from 3 pieces of 12"x12"x1/2" shelving. I drilled and countersunk a hole on the bottom and mounted a cheap ball head with Arca clamp I had laying around. Another option if shooting prone is to position the radar above the rifle, "quad pod" is what those adapters are typically called. I've also seen tripods that allow the center section to be mounted horizontally used for this as well like a boom mic, that setup can even be used next to a table.

As to your random BS speed reading. That can happen when the recoil trigger is set off with no shot. I can flick mine and get a random ~2000 fps reading or the failed to track projectile. Both of those are shown in videos on Piet's site. If your recoil trigger is overly sensitive you can adjust the sensitivity with the trigger level menu to a less sensitive setting.

For when it is working then suddenly stops and shows a blank screen, I've seen two causes for this. The first is a weak battery pack or poor quality USB cable, usually the latter. The other is an SD card that isn't compatible or has write speed issues. That one is super easy to test, try using the unit without an SD card.
 
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6.5SH said:
Rearward vented brakes can be a pain. If you can't find a position that has 6-12" of offset fully out of the blast wake their guide shows using a wood baffle between the radar and the gun.

I have multiple brakes and re-purposed a "corner" built from 3 pieces of 12"x12"x1/2" shelving. I drilled and countersunk a hole on the bottom and mounted a cheap ball head with Arca clamp I had laying around. Another option if shooting prone is to position the radar above the rifle, "quad pod" is what those adapters are typically called. I've also seen tripods that allow the center section to be mounted horizontally used for this as well like a boom mic, that setup can even be used next to a table.

As to your random BS speed reading. That can happen when the recoil trigger is set off with no shot. I can flick mine and get a random ~2000 fps reading or the failed to track projectile. Both of those are shown in videos on Piet's site. If your recoil trigger is overly sensitive you can adjust the sensitivity with the trigger level menu to a less sensitive setting.

For when it is working then suddenly stops and shows a blank screen, I've seen two causes for this. The first is a weak battery pack or poor quality USB cable, usually the latter. The other is an SD card that isn't compatible or has write speed issues. That one is super easy to test, try using the unit without an SD card.
Click to expand...
Thanks again 6.5. That information is very helpful. I'm going to watch the Piet videos and see what I might be doing wrong. I've already got the unit packed and ready to send back to the vendor, but it will be worth looking into some more as shipping charges get to be a real pita.
Have a great day to all.
 
I also had problems with my lab radar especially when using directional muzzle brakes. Then one day I came across the jkl precision lab radar trigger. https://jklprecision.com/product/labradar-trigger/
All my problems were resolved using this device. Initially you need to determine the trigger level and presto it works. I like to keep the unit behind the muzzle by 12” and pointed directly in the bullet path to 100 yards. This unit only reads to 100 yards so that being said if you’re shooting to 1000 yards and pointed at the target the bullet path is above that line of sight. Therefore it won’t read. It’s important to aim the device in the projectile path. I even shot a pcp air rifle over it last week and worked flawlessly. The straw trick really helps keep the lab radar pointed in the right path. Lab radar really should incorporate a better aiming tool and a lot of the quirks would be resolved.
 
To calibrate any chronograph shot a few first quality Match grade .22lr from a rifle. Published velocities are very precise and repeatable.
Have Chrony (more portable) and an old Oehler 35. Both have done their job. Take some time to set them. Better on cloudy days.
 
Hear is my solution to the issues people have with the Magnetospeed. I use this with and without the suppressor, and on multiple guns. It is solid and does not touch the barrel or suppressor. The Magnetospeed is much simpler to use and extremely reliable with this setup. It does not shoot loose like it did with the strap. Lab radar is an extremely nice tool, but is more difficult to use, has it's own quirks, and is not as easy to carry with you as the Magnetospeed.
 

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6.5SH said:
Rearward vented brakes can be a pain. If you can't find a position that has 6-12" of offset fully out of the blast wake their guide shows using a wood baffle between the radar and the gun.

I have multiple brakes and re-purposed a "corner" built from 3 pieces of 12"x12"x1/2" shelving. I drilled and countersunk a hole on the bottom and mounted a cheap ball head with Arca clamp I had laying around. Another option if shooting prone is to position the radar above the rifle, "quad pod" is what those adapters are typically called. I've also seen tripods that allow the center section to be mounted horizontally used for this as well like a boom mic, that setup can even be used next to a table.

As to your random BS speed reading. That can happen when the recoil trigger is set off with no shot. I can flick mine and get a random ~2000 fps reading or the failed to track projectile. Both of those are shown in videos on Piet's site. If your recoil trigger is overly sensitive you can adjust the sensitivity with the trigger level menu to a less sensitive setting.

For when it is working then suddenly stops and shows a blank screen, I've seen two causes for this. The first is a weak battery pack or poor quality USB cable, usually the latter. The other is an SD card that isn't compatible or has write speed issues. That one is super easy to test, try using the unit without an SD card.
Click to expand...
 
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6.5SH said:
Rearward vented brakes can be a pain. If you can't find a position that has 6-12" of offset fully out of the blast wake their guide shows using a wood baffle between the radar and the gun.

I have multiple brakes and re-purposed a "corner" built from 3 pieces of 12"x12"x1/2" shelving. I drilled and countersunk a hole on the bottom and mounted a cheap ball head with Arca clamp I had laying around. Another option if shooting prone is to position the radar above the rifle, "quad pod" is what those adapters are typically called. I've also seen tripods that allow the center section to be mounted horizontally used for this as well like a boom mic, that setup can even be used next to a table.

As to your random BS speed reading. That can happen when the recoil trigger is set off with no shot. I can flick mine and get a random ~2000 fps reading or the failed to track projectile. Both of those are shown in videos on Piet's site. If your recoil trigger is overly sensitive you can adjust the sensitivity with the trigger level menu to a less sensitive setting.

For when it is working then suddenly stops and shows a blank screen, I've seen two causes for this. The first is a weak battery pack or poor quality USB cable, usually the latter. The other is an SD card that isn't compatible or has write speed issues. That one is super easy to test, try using the unit without an SD card.
Click to expand...
Glad you are offering some suggestions...
 
Sgtsideways said:
Not happy with the labradar as it just seems to be too quirky, even with the external trigger it is very inconsistent in performance. Any suggestions?
I'm looking at magnetospeed, but not sure how it will do with tbac 338 ultra. A reliable chrono is sorely needed, so any guidance would really help me.
Click to expand...
I'm on my second Magnetospeed and am very happy with the brand and performance. But......tried strapping my first one to the monster brake on my RPR 338 Lapua (brake's too long to overlap it), and the recoil blew the thing apart. Probably my bad, ya think? So I'm using book speeds for my Strelok until I figure out where to chrono the thing. Good luck!
 
rottenruger said:
I'm on my second Magnetospeed and am very happy with the brand and performance. But......tried strapping my first one to the monster brake on my RPR 338 Lapua (brake's too long to overlap it), and the recoil blew the thing apart. Probably my bad, ya think? So I'm using book speeds for my Strelok until I figure out where to chrono the thing. Good luck!
Click to expand...
Yikes! I'd say you need the Wiser adapter or something similar to get the bayonet out in front.
 
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