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Finally a Good Shot Marker Stand

Jettheterror

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Mar 1, 2017
168
67
Hey guys just wanted to share this "shot marker" stand from Detour dynamics it looks like a great piece of kit. I'm sure you long range ninjas could appreciate it.

https://detourdynamics.com/


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I have to look at this from the perspective of anything downrange is going to get shot eventually so you want it to be cheap and easily fixed or built like a tank so it can shrug off hits. You can't really protect the microphone clusters so the first solution is probably the right one.

How about this:

With this:

You can assemble, break down or fix the frame with a screw driver in a few minutes and this stuff is fairly torsionally ridged. Not sure how the microphones mount but if it is something odd, I can model a 3d printable bracket for you guys if someone wants.

-Alex
 
It's nice theirs comes as a full kit so you don't have to figure out a lot of guess work.
 
We used Shot Marker targets at Gunsite XLR to calibrate rifles with FFS and was so impressed I ordered one as soon as soon as I returned home. Far superior to the previous method of spending a full day of sending rounds down range at KD targets. We were able to calibrate two rifle in one morning and spent the rest of the class banging UKD targets out to 2200. The target frame I built will allow 3 MOA at a 1000.
 
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We used Shot Marker targets at Gunsite XLR to calibrate rifles with FFS and was so impressed I ordered one as soon as soon as I returned home. Far superior to the previous method of spending a full day of sending rounds down range at KD targets. We were able to calibrate two rifle in one morning and spent the rest of the class banging UKD targets out to 2200. The target frame I built will allow 3 MOA at a 1000.
I've used things like the oakwood controls H bar but not these. What is the recommended and maximum spacing for the corners?

-Alex
 
After looking at the way the mag base mounts, this style 2020 bracket would be better:


That with a few M5 screws and the T-nuts in that kit you can mount that magnetic bases at the corners. Cant tell you how long the screws would need to be for the bases but this should cover the range:


The TIG'd bracket is sexy, I'll grant you. Think I'd be pissed to get it shot though.

-Alex
 
Well if you can't shoot sub 3 moa at a 1000 you probably being shooting at it in the first place.:cool:
Duh... and yet that logic doesn't stop half as many people as it should and we both know it. Saw a shooter print a 5" group at 1500 yards on the frame. Ask Walt, he was being rather colorful the entire time lol... At a match a month ago I had a shooter manage to get three hits on target legs in 4 shots taken. left leg, right leg, target, right leg and managed to sever it... Our fault for not having heavy enough protection but that was some magically bad shooting. At Ringneck Ranch I had a shooter that on two sequential targets 100s of yards apart manage to whistle rounds passed the cameras repeatedly and they were 4 fucking mils to the left of the plates! Anything downrange will get shot.

Not sure if there is a recommended maximum spacing but critical to have a square frame and the sensors equidistant.
The extrusion would make that brainless. They come cut with pretty tight tolerances but the way the brackets work, you can square them up even if they are radically different lengths.

-Alex
 
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Duh... and yet that logic doesn't stop half as many people as it should and we both know it. Saw a shooter print a 5" group at 1500 yards on the frame. Ask Walt, he was being rather colorful the entire time lol... At a match a month ago I had a shooter manage to get three hits on target legs in 4 shots taken. left leg, right leg, target, right leg and managed to sever it... Our fault for not having heavy enough protection but that was some magically bad shooting. At Ringneck Ranch I had a shooter that on two sequential targets 100s of yards apart manage to whistle rounds passed the cameras repeatedly and they were 4 fucking mils to the left of the plates! Anything downrange will get shot.


The extrusion would make that brainless. They come cut with pretty tight tolerances but the way the brackets work, you can square them up even if they are radically different lengths.

-Alex
True. This frame is for my use only to calibrate rifles and practice F Class. Not sure what size frame Cory was using at a 1000+ but no doubt pretty large. Good practice to verify windage and elevation on steel before sending rounds through Shot Marker.
 
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The 1k frame is 6’x8‘, and we confirm on a plate prior to shooting the target. I’m adding a 1500 yard target and it will be 8x10
 
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Those are some really cool frames you guys built in your shops. I just liked the Detour Dynamics way more because it can break down and can fit in the wife's car if I need to andI don't have to figure anything out. One and done!
 
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needs some AR500 at the corners to protect the sensors
It is always recommended to use a trueing target safley adjacent from the target stand to make sure the shooter, rifle, and wind gods are on the same page.
 
that's great at 1k. 1500, 2000, 2500 not so much

Well, that depends on the frame size and known precision of the system. The only expensive item is the sensor hub, I place it on edge and bolt a 4" plate in front of it. The sensors are pretty tiny, as they are point on and $40 gets you a universal spare. The 1500 yard frame I'm making now is 10' x 8 ', plenty for even a new rifle being calibrated. One test shot on a nearby plate establishes gross windage and elevation. The 1K frame is 8'x8', I've never had a client get close to the frame. I've personally shot with that frame at 2000, it's plenty big for a known rifle unless the wind is howling and gusty.

I just bolt up 3"x1" aluminum tube, use wing nuts and it breaks down to straight sections for transport.
 
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I just added a third frame to the stable. We will now have a 1500/2000 yard target. In fact, we can now set three targets in line at 200/400/600 and capture 4 velocities on a single shot, as well as relative shot locations. The new frame is just under 10'x10'. We are also adding downrange wireless wind sensors for the calibration ranges.

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I just added a third frame to the stable. We will now have a 1500/2000 yard target. In fact, we can now set three targets in line at 200/400/600 and capture 4 velocities on a single shot, as well as relative shot locations. The new frame is just under 10'x10'. We are also adding downrange wireless wind sensors for the calibration ranges.

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Nice. I wish we had the land on the east coast to build a facility like this. Probably the only thing I miss about living and growing up out west. Open land.
 
I just added a third frame to the stable. We will now have a 1500/2000 yard target. In fact, we can now set three targets in line at 200/400/600 and capture 4 velocities on a single shot, as well as relative shot locations. The new frame is just under 10'x10'. We are also adding downrange wireless wind sensors for the calibration ranges.

View attachment 7646084
Sorry for my stupidity… what’s the string for?
 
The crossed string make sure you post the aiming point in the center of the sensor block. I just use some strips of fiberglass tape, hold the aiming point perfectly even in a high wind without vibrating the frame.
 
Put this together over the last few days. Can stand on its own or hang on a 2x4.

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Well, not in the class of you guys, but I got a Shot Marker at a price I could not refuse, and since a Suzuki Jimny is somewhat limited in internal space, I needed a fold-up target that could fit on the, small, roof rack.
Borrowed heavily from F- Class John, this is what I came up with.

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I wanted a large frame and wanted it a bit more portable. I cut and machined the cross bars square on the ends and installed 1/4-20 thread inserts and drilled the verticals as a matched set. I use a 7/16 nut driver to assemble with the 4 bolts once I get there.

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In the playing around mode now though and need to do some more testing. Thinking about ditching the plastic holders and just sticking the sensors directly to the steel frame, I made some weld on tabs that I drilled and tapped for 8-32 screws for the mounting brackets but then thought a 1/4” section of 2.5” box tube welded to the frame would do the same job as the 3d Printed holders with better ability to be kept out in the elements.

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