I built a .300 prc. Everything was bought on the hide used except the bolt(ebay) and the recoil lug(new). It has been headspaced with ptg go no go gauges. I want to make a holder to remotely fire it before I light off a 65kpi near my face. What do you think?
Gunsmithing Not blowing your face off testing a rifle.
- Thread starter Jscb1b
- Start date
You could just shoot it at the hip if you are worried about it. Is there some reason to be worried about it?
I used to test fire the Mauser actions I built rifles on by strapping the butt into a tire a firing with a cord. I wasn't worried about my machining skills but what had happened to that 1939 action that I wasn't aware of. New modern actions aren't an issue if they haven't had a barrel blown up on them. I used to test fire a new barrel hanging onto the barrel with a glove and slapping the trigger without it in a stock especially on Ackleys.
Hi,
Big difference in function testing and "proof" testing....
Proof testing is done with certified ammunition with exact overpressure load specifications.
Sincerely,
Theis
Big difference in function testing and "proof" testing....
Proof testing is done with certified ammunition with exact overpressure load specifications.
Sincerely,
Theis
I'm on the hide and you mention sanity? I thought I needed help.
When I was like 14 I found one of my grandmas 16 gauge break action shotguns leaned up in the corner of the barn. Probably had been there 30 years. I also found a box of paper shells. The shotgun was not confidence inspiring... it had a cracked stock tapped up. It was totally coated in rust and the barrel was plugged with crap. I cleaned it out with wd40 and went to "test" it.
Stuck the barrel through some hog fence, jammed the butt in the dirt and tied a string to the trigger. Went bang and didn't blow up.
I shot that whole box of paper shells and with every shot I was waiting for it to blow up in my face. Never did haha.
Why not construct a crude "rest" out of 2x4's and rig it up. Pop one off and call it good.
It's modern components, if assembled correctly, you should have no issues.
Stuck the barrel through some hog fence, jammed the butt in the dirt and tied a string to the trigger. Went bang and didn't blow up.
I shot that whole box of paper shells and with every shot I was waiting for it to blow up in my face. Never did haha.
Why not construct a crude "rest" out of 2x4's and rig it up. Pop one off and call it good.
It's modern components, if assembled correctly, you should have no issues.
Or, it fires properly every time until it doesn't.....
I think you have no idea what you are doing.
If you did, you wouldn’t need a remote test firing fixture.
That said, stick the rifle in a vise, muzzle pointed in a safe direction, use a rod with a 90 degree bend in it for the trigger, stand back and light it off.
Everything works until it doesn't.
Do not put the rifle in a vise or a lead sled with 50# of shot on it. Excellent way to break a stock.
if that’s the case then he will need to come up with a proper testing fixture.
I was thinking(hurts) making a sled out of 2x4's so it can recoil. I'm going to start with 10% of max charge and work up.
Shoot it.
Shoot a light charge with a light bullet if you are worried
Shoot a light charge with a light bullet if you are worried
if you headspaced it correctly and verified everything is tight/torqued properly then there isn’t anything to worry about and no need to waste time on any sort of test set up. 1 to 1.5G below max is a good place to start
Did you assemble the rifle or did someone else (I’m assuming you did but could be wrong).
Are you suggesting he only put 1/2 the amount of powder in the case relative to a nominal full charge?
Nothing if the rifle was built correctly and properly developed ammo is used.
Light charge. I edited moments after I posted it.
I assembled it myself. It is a RR ser no remington 700 action. The bolt is a remington 700 magnum faced bolt from the late 60's. The barrel is a x calibre remage. The bolt was completely disassembled to test head space. Go gauge closes with no resistance the no go does not. The barrel nut is torqued to 75 foot pounds.
Light as in 1-2g below max would be fine, I usually start 1g below the max charge listed in the reloading manual published by the manufacturer of the bullets im using based on the powder im using.
Im not a gunsmith but it seems like you did everything correctly. If you aren’t confident enough to shoot it, perhaps have a gunsmith check it for you (again, dont think it’s necessary based on info you have provided but it certainly wouldnt hurt)
You can start at the bottom end of the recommended loads from a known good source. Don't be doing anything moronic like "10%" or "half" loads, or else you risk creating entirely new problems.
What is the point of going 1 grain below max charge… should his fears be the gun exploding
If the bullet is going 3500 with 80 grains.
I’m sure 60 will get it out the barrel just fine.. what do you think happens with a light charge.. guys shoot 300 HH in 300 win mag chambers all the time to fire form brass… and countless other things.
I shoot slow 22-250 loads with 22-250 brass in my 22 creed to fireform and it sounds like a 22 hornet.
As long as he isn’t on the verge of getting a bullet stuck in the tube. He will be fine.
If the OP wanted piece of mind… which is the point of the post.
A grain below max charge in a book for a guy who isn’t sure of himself prolly isn’t sound advice…
Lol, if you think your gun is to explode at 1 or 2 or even 3 grains below a reloading manual’s published max charge weight for a given powder you should not be shooting it at all.
If the OP wants piece of mind and lacks sufficient confidence the rifle will function properly to the extent he wants to remotely fire it on a test stand, he should have the gun checked out by a gun smith. If something is going to go wrong, its going to go wrong regardless if you “light charge” your hand loads or not. And if it functions fine with “light loads” but fails catastrophically when normal full power loads are put through it, what has he gained?
And where are you getting the number “60” from? Typical PRC charges across popular powders like H1000 are in the high sixties to low-mid 70s for the PRC with 200-230g bullets, for example (i have no idea what bullets he’s planning on running, just picked that weight range randomly)
See post 32.
Rgr
just send it to Kentucky Ballistics
You will be fine.
I didn’t say his fears were valid…. I was just commenting on his fears…. You gave him advice based on you starting load development(1g below max charge….)
A bolt coming out at 1 grain below max charge and 20 below of much different….
NVM…..
You are right…. Everyone is wrong.
He should load 1g below max in current published loading manuals. (Which normally say 10-15% to start). For people….
Thanks for your insight.
The number 60. Was 3/4 of max charge BTW. And still gonna be well over 2400 FPS to get it out of the barrel more than safely….
But I’m sure that blowing up there and 1 gr below max will be the same. You again are correct.
My mistake.
I was going to start at 75gn. I was advised not to because of flash over.
I have been wildcatting and fireforming for 20 years. I promise loading 3/4 or in this case about 17 grains below max are more than adequate.
60-65 grains is more than safe. And much less than 1g below max……For your test
I agree you don’t need to do that… I was just speaking out of your desire to build a remote fire system.
If it passed go/no gauges. It is fine to shoot full power loads.
Good luck
Josh
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At Trindad at the gunsmithing school, they told us to always test fire a new rifle. They had a fixture to bolt down the barreled action and fire into a snail with a long string from outside the covered 55 gallon drum fixture cover. But the various experienced gunsmiths often didn't have a snail at home and did some version of what OP is suggesting. Long string and a rifle "vise". I just use a cheap one from Midway I use for cleaning. Slides back on the bench a few inches.
Once one of the students cut the chamber oversize (but headspace gauge still registered correctly). The instructor was manually firing all the project guns because they were behind. He said he literally never did that before (he always pulled a string from a few feet away). There was a violent case head separation. Luckily he only stuck his hand in the fixture and only got splinters blown out of the stock into his hand.
It's a good idea to test fire the rifle. Using cerrosafe to cast and measure the chamber wouldn't be a terrible idea either.
Once one of the students cut the chamber oversize (but headspace gauge still registered correctly). The instructor was manually firing all the project guns because they were behind. He said he literally never did that before (he always pulled a string from a few feet away). There was a violent case head separation. Luckily he only stuck his hand in the fixture and only got splinters blown out of the stock into his hand.
It's a good idea to test fire the rifle. Using cerrosafe to cast and measure the chamber wouldn't be a terrible idea either.
Was the bolt ever actually fitted to your action to ensure that it has adequate contact on both lugs and will extract as expected? The barrel isn’t my concern, it’s the bolt to action interface.
I would ignore the guys who tell you you're an idiot for wanting to test in a fixture. Your subconscious (intuition) is a powerful analytical engine that's running in the background of your brain. It's making connections and deductions at a level behind conscious thought. If your intuition is telling you to test safely, I say there is risk in ignoring it.
If you're just a worry wart like I am (the polite term is risk averse, I guess), I'd still do it. It costs you little in terms of time and money and might save you from a big problem.
I've not done it myself, but if I wanted to I'd start with a lead sled or the like and strap it all down to the shooting bench.
If you're just a worry wart like I am (the polite term is risk averse, I guess), I'd still do it. It costs you little in terms of time and money and might save you from a big problem.
I've not done it myself, but if I wanted to I'd start with a lead sled or the like and strap it all down to the shooting bench.
why would you buy a gun you think is going to blow up on you ? Id pay a gun smith to do a once over letting him take the risk if any if you doubt the saftey of the gun , how ever you decide to do it remember video or post live on you tube so others can point out mistakes and learn . also giving some the ability to have pop corn on hand .
I did not buy a gun I was worried about blowing up on me. I bought all the parts for a gun I wanted.
Just hug a tree and shoot into a bucket of sand, or put a ar500 plate between you and the action if you're so worried.
Doesn't have to be a big drawn out build a jig thing.
Don't get why you're that worried honestly. Rifles aren't blowing up like frag grenades killing people left and right
Also if you don't trust the parts why did you buy them? I'm not even being a dick, real question.
Doesn't have to be a big drawn out build a jig thing.
Don't get why you're that worried honestly. Rifles aren't blowing up like frag grenades killing people left and right
Also if you don't trust the parts why did you buy them? I'm not even being a dick, real question.
There’s countless builds done on savage a Remington actions the same way you accomplished yours. You checked proper headspace which is obviously a major component to assembly
I highly doubt you’ll have an issue. If your worried have someone experienced check out the rifle. If you’re going to strap it down and fire it just use the low/minimum end of the hornady load book. Making sure your not jamming the bullet into the lands. Or get some factory ammo to test
Is there something about the components or history behind them that’s making you question them?
I highly doubt you’ll have an issue. If your worried have someone experienced check out the rifle. If you’re going to strap it down and fire it just use the low/minimum end of the hornady load book. Making sure your not jamming the bullet into the lands. Or get some factory ammo to test
Is there something about the components or history behind them that’s making you question them?
