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Gun Broker Sale

GoatLD259

Sergeant of the Hide
Full Member
Minuteman
Sep 23, 2020
196
45
United States
Good Evening Hide,

Has anyone here ever sold an item on Gun Broker? I have an item I want to sell but have questions about the details.

1. How do you collect the money? I would prefer a check written to me. What are some other options?

2. Do you wait to send firearm out until money is received?

3. Some websites say to verify age? How do I do this? I would imagine having them send me a picture of their driver's license would work, but does not really "verify" anything.

Thank you

Goat
 
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Good Evening Hide,

Has anyone here ever sold an item on Gun Broker? I have an item I want to sell but have questions about the details.

1. How do you collect the money? I would prefer a check written to me. What are some other options?

2. Do you wait to send firearm out until money is received?

3. Some websites say to verify age? How do I do this? I would imagine having them send me a picture of their driver's license would work, but does not really "verify" anything.

Thank you

Goatl
Check and or money order are both available as payment options. Do be warned that Gunbroker expects you to collect any sales tax that accompanies the sale, payable by the buyer .

Once someone hits “buy it now” or wins your auction, an invoice is sent that gunbroker generates-this invoice includes the sales tax due and payable from your buyer. DO NOT fail to collect this additional amount as gunbroker will still hit your account or bill you for it 30 days or so after your sale.

Because they collect state sales tax on every purchase you make (unless you live in a state with no sales tax like DE or SD) and make you accountable for collecting sales tax from your buyers, I have stopped selling on Gunbroker.
 
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Check and or money order are both available as payment options. Do be warned that Gunbroker expects you to collect any sales tax that accompanies the sale, payable by the buyer .

Once someone hits “buy it now” or wins your auction, you send them an invoice that gunbroker generates-this invoice includes the sales tax due and payable from your buyer. DO NOT fail to collect this additional amount as gunbroker will still hit your account or bill you for it 30 days or so after your sale.

Because they collect state sales tax on every purchase you make (unless you live in a state with no sales tax like DE or SD) and make you accountable for collecting sales tax from your buyers, I have stopped selling on Gunbroker.
Thank you for the response. After doing some research, I learned that Gunbroker will automatically include the sales tax on the bill depending on the state. You say that Gunbroker will still hit my account for it regardless if I collect or not. Does this mean I am paying a tax to Gunbroker? Also, does Gunbroker give a final sales invoice for tax purposes when the time comes?

Goat
 
Thank you for the response. After doing some research, I learned that Gunbroker will automatically include the sales tax on the bill depending on the state. You say that Gunbroker will still hit my account for it regardless if I collect or not. Does this mean I am paying a tax to Gunbroker? Also, does Gunbroker give a final sales invoice for tax purposes when the time comes?

Goat
Yep, Gunbroker will hit your account regardless. Say you sell a rifle for 1000.00 and sales tax in the buyer’s state is 10%. So you would send the invoice to your buyer in the amount of $1,100.00. You would collect all $1100, put it into your account. In 30 days or so, GB will debit your checking acct for that $100.00 in sales tax. If you forget to collect it from your buyer, GB still hits your acct but instead of the buyer passing it through you, you are on the hook for it.

Gunbroker will send you an email(s) with a link to your monthly statement showing all payables including yoir final value fee and sales tax (i think they send separate emails for each one of those payables when they are due and collectable)
 
My advice: Fuck Gunbroker. Upgrade to a supporter account here and put it in the PX. Its only $20 per month, cancel anytime and you don’t have to worry about collecting stupid ass sales tax or get hit with final value fees
 
My advice: Fuck Gunbroker. Upgrade to a supporter account here and put it in the PX. Its only $20 per month, cancel anytime and you don’t have to worry about collecting stupid ass sales tax or get hit with final value fees
I may try just that. Have you had good luck here selling firearms?
 
no real experience with them I almost bought powder and primers till I added up the final costs and realized just how much I would be paying then quietly backed out for cheaper prices . But if they have what you want and the price still leaves you with a comfortable smile then why not they are about the only place to regularly find items like powder and primers that I have seen in the past 2 years . Best of luck to you and your purchase .
 
no real experience with them I almost bought powder and primers till I added up the final costs and realized just how much I would be paying then quietly backed out for cheaper prices . But if they have what you want and the price still leaves you with a comfortable smile then why not they are about the only place to regularly find items like powder and primers that I have seen in the past 2 years . Best of luck to you and your purchase .
I am not looking to buy, but sell at the moment.

Thank you though.

Goat
 
There is a tread on here about getting scammed even by postal money order. Make sure you cash it at the USPS or use it to buy a new one with it breaking the ability of the fraudster to cancel it on you.
 
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There is a tread on here about getting scammed even by postal money order. Make sure you cash it at the USPS or use it to buy a new one with it breaking the ability of the fraudster to cancel it on you.
I looked at that a little bit. Wouldn’t it be wise to first receive payment, confirm money gets deposited into account, then send out said item?

Goat
 
Apparently US postal and personal checked can get reversed even after deposit.
It isn't fully cleared and the fraudster can cancel it at the PO to get the cash back.

Some info here..

 
I looked at that a little bit. Wouldn’t it be wise to first receive payment, confirm money gets deposited into account, then send out said item?

Goat

Never did it any other way. I've stopped selling anything online as almost everyone wants to use gaypal or some other electronic pay app. I cashed the MO and then shipped. If the scammer wants to try and seek a refund from the PO, that's their business.
 
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If you don't know dont post. The seller dosnt send an invoice gunbroker sends it and includes taxes and shipping. The buyer sends you the the total funds in whatever form you stipulated. You deposit funds and when cleared by your bank, or you cash money order, then you ship. Later Gunbroker charges your credit card for the taxes. I've bought and sold on GB and never been burned.
 
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If you don't know dont post. The seller dosnt send an invoice gunbroker sends it and includes taxes and shipping. The buyer sends you the the total funds in whatever form you stipulated. You deposit funds and when cleared by your bank, or you cash money order, then you ship. Later Gunbroker charges your credit card for the taxes. I've bought and sold on GB and never been burned.
This sums it up quite well.

although GB sends the invoice, you as the seller facilitate the "collection" of funds entirely. It really sucks.

Ive done so by paypal, Ive also emailed buyers offering them to pay me by quickpay/zelle, cash app, venmo, paypal.

You're essentially on your own here. I did try gunbroker pay once, but it took something like 10 days for a payment to clear for a new user of the platform, and I dont want my money tied up that long, or to have to keep telling a buyer "sorry cant ship it until it clears".

Also, as it stands, gunbroker support is notoriously horrid right now. I had a buyer from a state like illinois or whatever buy bulk ammo. I think their laws require them to provide a copy of a carry permit to buy, or whatever the insane law was. So I told the guy to send it my way. He kept sending email questions, and not sending it. At that point I had to dispute the transaction. He disputed it on his end too. Gunbroker went on something like almost 6 months tying up the final value fees on the auction. I submitted multiple tickets and never got a response back. I had to dispute the fees with my bank to get them back. Gunbroker has still not responded, almost a year later.

I would avoid selling there as much as possible at this point, if you can, it really isnt a beginner's playground anymore.
 
Apparently US postal and personal checked can get reversed even after deposit.
It isn't fully cleared and the fraudster can cancel it at the PO to get the cash back.

Some info here..

sure they can. money orders can be faked and some places (banks and credit unions) dont catch it immediately, and the depositor can be on the receiving end of the scam, unfortunately.

Checks can also be "reversed" in some situations, or they can simply put a stop payment on it after they sent it to you.

quickpay/cash app type payments are about the few that cannot be reversed (yet)
 
And don't forget, thanks to the fucking Democrats, if you sell anything over $600 the IRS will be notified and you will have to report it as income on your tax return.

Upgrade your account and sell it here.
 
anyone aware of any fraud, scams, stop payments or the like from buyers using us post office money orders?
 
1. How do you collect the money? I would prefer a check written to me. What are some other options?
2. Do you wait to send firearm out until money is received?
3. Some websites say to verify age? How do I do this? I would imagine having them send me a picture of their driver's license would work, but does not really "verify" anything.
i have sold a handful or two of firearms on gunbroker. generally i say in the ad that payment must be via usps money order. just seems harder to fake or stop payment but i'm sure nothing is foolproof. occasionally if i get a buyer with great feedback i'll tell him a normal check is ok.

i generally wait to mail the firearm until the usps mo has been received and deposited. again for a buyer with great feedback, occasionally i'll ship it out before that to save me some hassle (ie if ups is dropping something off for me and i can just hand it off to them).

not sure how to verify age. i'd think getting a copy of their DL would be sufficient, that's what i've given alcohol and gun stores for proof of my age. also, with firearms you're shipping them to the buyer's FFL who would be responsible for background check and other legalities.
 
Somebody previously posted they did get scammed by USPS money order. That's why they said to cash it (if they have the cash on hand...) or use it to purchase another money order, breaking the chain. Then deposit the new one in your bank.
 
Somebody previously posted they did get scammed by USPS money order. That's why they said to cash it (if they have the cash on hand...) or use it to purchase another money order, breaking the chain. Then deposit the new one in your bank.
Absofuckinglutely. I worked as a window clerk at the post office for 2 miserable fn years decades ago. USPS Money Orders have absolutely NO security. If they're lost, the purchaser must wait 30(?) days before filing an application to trace it, and there's a fee. I don't remember if it's 30 days, it might be 45. I dunno what the tracer fee is today, but there is a fee. It'll take ~2 months to get tracer results. Last I knew, the hot list of fake/lost/stolen money order ID numbers was NOT swiftly updated; that list could be at least as old as one month behind.

Accepting a USPS money order for payment is acceptable IF IF IF !!! you take the money order DIRECTLY to a USPS branch and cash it there. GET CASH for it. I accepted USPS MO, certified check or personal check; with the latter two, I'd wait until the funds cleared before shipping the item I sold. If it was a national bank--BofA, Wells Fargo, etc., I'd go to the bank and cash the check; just another precaution.

If you deposit a USPS MO into your checking account and the MO's bogus, the USPS will debit your account for the face value amount PLUS their own penalty fees (not including your bank's)--and this won't happen for up to 3 months' time--remember that the "hot sheet" isn't current, and like all things gubmint, their bookkeeping process is slooooww.
 
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I don't care what kind of check it is... I wait until the money clears.
 
Tried to cash a check once drawn on my own bank. They wanted a 1-2% penalty unless I actually deposit into my own account.
I can't believe they had a fee to cash a check written against their own bank... I didn't look, but that seems illegal. Damn bankers.. probably not.
 
Accepting a USPS money order for payment is acceptable IF IF IF !!! you take the money order DIRECTLY to a USPS branch and cash it there.
even not too far outside of DC Metro, none of the local PO's have enough to cash anything over a few hundred bucks.
 
even not too far outside of DC Metro, none of the local PO's have enough to cash anything over a few hundred bucks.
Call in the morning and ask the station manager to withhold enough cash from the daily deposit so's you can cash your MO. Most will comply; in any case, if it's a large amount, go to the PO at the end of the day after they've had plenty of time to conduct business at the windows.
 
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I've been taking Paypal F&F or Venmo for a lot of transactions and the idea of having a lot of money tied up in a system that's not 2A friendly and can hold funds for any reason under the sun doesn't sit well with me. I thought USPS MOs were supposed to be pretty foolproof, but having never used one, I guess I learned something today.
 
ok, beating the usps mo thing to death. having read above and some of the links (most of which deal with generic money orders), can someone please point me to a seller being defrauded by accepting a usps mo? i get that they could be faked though it seems pretty hard given how elaborate the usps mo's are. and i get that someone could try to change the $$ amount. but how many folks have gotten realistic but fake usps mo's or had their deposit later taken out of their bank by a stop payment or the like? all that said, i will try to do like above and cash it out at a PO.
 
Request a Certified Bank Check you ship item after the check clears.
 
Request a Certified Bank Check you ship item after the check clears.
well, one, aren't these somewhat easy to fake given they look pretty similar to regular checks, no elaborate inlays etc that are hard to fake? and two, how and when does one know when it actually "clears"? and even after it 'clears,' does the buyer have the ability to stop payment or otherwise reverse the payment, and if so, how long is that period? i don't know the answers to that, just trying to use the best method to ensure i don't get scammed, and not sit on the payment for months before sending out the buyer's goodies.
 
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I bought a used vehicle using a cashier's check from my bank, and the cashier's check does indeed look like it could be easily faked with three to five seconds of work in Photoshop. I've never taken checks for anything I've sold, ever, but... that's probably just me being paranoid.
 
well, one, aren't these somewhat easy to fake given they look pretty similar to regular checks, no elaborate inlays etc that are hard to fake? and two, how and when does one know when it actually "clears"? and even after it 'clears,' does the buyer have the ability to stop payment or otherwise reverse the payment, and if so, how long is that period? i don't know the answers to that, just trying to use the best method to ensure i don't get scammed, and not sit on the payment for months before sending out the buyer's goodies.
If its a real Certified Bank Check it clears in 2 days, payment can't be stop or withdrawn. My own bank almost fucked me with a draft check from a buyer that looked official. They told me it should clear in 3 days which we called and they said good to go. My wife was dropping off the rifle to Fedex but stopped at the bank to make a deposit by chance and she caught that the bank took the funds out of our account. Bank told her that happens sometimes, I said what like fucking up and telling us the check was good. I had 2 sales with real certified bank checks with no problem.
 
my understanding, which could be wrong and/or outdated, is there are a handful of federal reserve 'divisions' across the usa. generally checks clear overnite within the same division and then a couple more days in between different divisions. but i don't think (but not sure) that "clear" means period end of story, such that stop payments and the like can be run thru after that.
 
my understanding, which could be wrong and/or outdated, is there are a handful of federal reserve 'divisions' across the usa. generally checks clear overnite within the same division and then a couple more days in between different divisions. but i don't think (but not sure) that "clear" means period end of story, such that stop payments and the like can be run thru after that.

"It can be very difficult for either you or your bank to tell. When you deposit a check into your account, your bank generally is required by law to make the funds available within a specific period of time (usually, one business day for a cashier's check or other official instrument). This is true even if the check has not yet cleared through the banking system. Therefore, even if the funds have been made available in your account, you cannot be certain that the check has cleared or is "good."

Your bank also may not be able to determine that the check is fraudulent when you deposit it. Rather, your bank may learn of the problem only when the check is returned unpaid by the other bank—which may take a couple weeks or more. Scammers try to make the item look genuine, which will delay discovery of the fraud. Once the item has been returned unpaid, your bank, generally, will be able to reverse the deposit to your account and collect the amount of the deposit from you."

I've been unable to find a definitive time that it takes for a bank to certify a deposited cashier's check as genuine.
 
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I had sold a rifle and buyer sent a certified bank check and I deposited it and it was about the 3rd day and I was going to ship it and the buyer wanted to back out of the deal and he tried with his bank to reverse his check and he couldn't he even offered to put up a bond to the bank. I let him out of the deal less 10% fee I took off the top and sent him a refund check.
 
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Absofuckinglutely. I worked as a window clerk at the post office for 2 miserable fn years decades ago. USPS Money Orders have absolutely NO security. If they're lost, the purchaser must wait 30(?) days before filing an application to trace it, and there's a fee. I don't remember if it's 30 days, it might be 45. I dunno what the tracer fee is today, but there is a fee. It'll take ~2 months to get tracer results. Last I knew, the hot list of fake/lost/stolen money order ID numbers was NOT swiftly updated; that list could be at least as old as one month behind.

Accepting a USPS money order for payment is acceptable IF IF IF !!! you take the money order DIRECTLY to a USPS branch and cash it there. GET CASH for it. I accepted USPS MO, certified check or personal check; with the latter two, I'd wait until the funds cleared before shipping the item I sold. If it was a national bank--BofA, Wells Fargo, etc., I'd go to the bank and cash the check; just another precaution.

If you deposit a USPS MO into your checking account and the MO's bogus, the USPS will debit your account for the face value amount PLUS their own penalty fees (not including your bank's)--and this won't happen for up to 3 months' time--remember that the "hot sheet" isn't current, and like all things gubmint, their bookkeeping process is slooooww.
good points
just to clarify, usps can cash MOs for several thousand?
 
I'm getting bit on the reverse side of this. I sent someone a USPS MO after I had them send me a picture of their driver's license. I haven't heard from them in a few days regarding shipping so I combed through our messages again, and go figure, the picture of their DL was a good fake. I didn't catch it looking at it on my phone but there's obvious discrepencies everywhere.

So how do you collect your money back if you mail a MO to a person's physical address and you have their name?
 
Unfortunately you have lost that money. Next time speak with them on the phone.
 
I'm getting bit on the reverse side of this. I sent someone a USPS MO after I had them send me a picture of their driver's license. I haven't heard from them in a few days regarding shipping so I combed through our messages again, and go figure, the picture of their DL was a good fake. I didn't catch it looking at it on my phone but there's obvious discrepencies everywhere.

So how do you collect your money back if you mail a MO to a person's physical address and you have their name?
that sucks, sorry to hear this
 
I "heard" that if someone wins a bid on your item on GB, but then doesn't make payment, GB still hits you for the sales tax on that sale that was never completed. Could be rumor, I could be wrong, but it sounds like GB's usually BS.

Sell here. I've sold nearly every item I've ever posted here. Including some items in excess of $1,000. Much more actually. Check your buyer's feedback before you accept the sale or send it. I bought several high dollar items here as well without issue. Maybe I'm lucky. Maybe I have a good "gut" for sniffing out BS. But truthfully, all buyers/sellers here have been impeccable.
 
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I "heard" that if someone wins a bid on your item on GB, but then doesn't make payment, GB still hits you for the sales tax on that sale that was never completed. Could be rumor, I could be wrong, but it sounds like GB's usually BS.

Sell here. I've sold nearly every item I've ever posted here. Including some items in excess of $1,000. Much more actually. Check your buyer's feedback before you accept the sale or send it. I bought several high dollar items here as well without issue. Maybe I'm lucky. Maybe I have a good "gut" for sniffing out BS. But truthfully, all buyers/sellers here have been impeccable.

I think it helps that you need to pay a fee to sell here. Something not being free is a big barrier to entry for people whose sole goal is to get as much money as they can (and leave as little identifying information as they can).
 
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I "heard" that if someone wins a bid on your item on GB, but then doesn't make payment, GB still hits you for the sales tax on that sale that was never completed. Could be rumor, I could be wrong, but it sounds like GB's usually BS.

Sell here. I've sold nearly every item I've ever posted here. Including some items in excess of $1,000. Much more actually. Check your buyer's feedback before you accept the sale or send it. I bought several high dollar items here as well without issue. Maybe I'm lucky. Maybe I have a good "gut" for sniffing out BS. But truthfully, all buyers/sellers here have been impeccable.
Yes but then you have to apply for a credit for a non paying bidder and they typically remove the charge. Sometimes they will ban you because you didn't resolve the problem with the non paying bidder even if the bidder had no intension at all of paying for the item in the first place. You also have to deal with the scammers sending bogus checks for items.
 
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I'm getting bit on the reverse side of this. I sent someone a USPS MO after I had them send me a picture of their driver's license. I haven't heard from them in a few days regarding shipping so I combed through our messages again, and go figure, the picture of their DL was a good fake. I didn't catch it looking at it on my phone but there's obvious discrepencies everywhere.

So how do you collect your money back if you mail a MO to a person's physical address and you have their name?
I mailed a m.o. to CA about 5 days later GB sends me a message that his account had been terminated, that I should contact USPS & recall my letter, yeah right? Fortunately I'm only out $25. I have quite a bit to sell, but haven't sold on there in years. One day I'll get it all organized and pony up and have a virtual garage sale on here!
 
Then there's this, people have lost their damn minds. I thought I over bid...
IMG_8408.PNG
 
I have a pair of cz 452 scouts, wonder what they'd go for as all the cz forums guys want those. Not selling but damn that is rich for these
I have no idea. I thought about getting a 457 scout, then getting a light weight bull barrel, and putting it in a Boyd's Barracuda stock. I kind of wanted that one, because I've heard the 452's are better quality than current 457s, and it already had a threaded 16.5" barrel. Was thinking it would be a good candidate for a bolt action squirrel rifle with a can. Guess I'll just stick with my Kidd ULW.
 
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i am totally a po m.o. guy. i check at my branch and they say they can spot a fake. i very much like the idea of using the mo to buy another same value at a po. double insurance but i have never had a prob buying or selling with them. some were lost by po but refunds are 30d and easy. only thing efficient about po these days. to me,the electronic stuff is shit for the birds.
 
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