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16" 300 Blackout Barrel Choice

Woodlanddude

Professional Hillbilly
Full Member
Minuteman
Jan 26, 2007
464
185
49
Beckley, WV
Ok gents, I am currently building a 16" 300 BLK for hunting and varmint control. So far, I have Anderson parts, UBR stock, Wilson M2 trigger and American Defense M-Lok 13.5" handguard. Spikes T2 and CAR buffers on hand. (everything but the suppressor and barrel are currently on hand/on order or built). I know that I need a 1:7 or 1:8 twist barrel, but I have read an array of information on gas length, IE Pistol vs Carbine gas systems for 16" guns. I like the idea of reliability on an array of options. Available 16" barrels seem to favor the carbine gas system despite posts as far back as 2012 or older stating pistol gas is where it is at for such a build. I am focused currently on BCM, Ballistic Advantage modern, and Wilson Recon barrels, but open to suggestions. I do not intend to shoot extremely heavy for caliber subs. 200 - 240 grain subs (Varmints), 110-125 grain supers (hunting) are the plan. Manufacturer, Twist and gas length recommendations are requested. Around $300 is my max budget for this barrel. Also, suppressor recommendations would be good for a QD option for this rifle. Thanks in advance!
 
Carbine is just fine, pistol is for shorter barrels like 12.5" and below. It's not 2012 and as long as you buy from someone like Proof or Criterion, or any other established name the port will be drilled correctly for it's length.

1:8 will do just fine with just about anything at 16", but may want to do 1:7 if you plan to push heavier than 220. Right now my sub round of choice is the Sub X at 190gn (Took a big 8 point at 90 Yards, dirt in 30.) and it does well in both a 1:7 12.5" Proof and a 1:8 16" DD barrel doing about 1-1.5 MOA.
Supers I only shoot out of my DD barrel and I use the 120gn Barnes. Get about 1.5" MOA from it.

For a can, Dead Air Nomad or Nomad L.
 
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  1. I looked earlier today on the WOA site after he posted that, no luck (did not think of them as I'd never heard of a WOA 300 blk).
  2. Thanks for the reply on the barrel specs. Noted and leaning that way hard, as carbine gas seems to hold the same benefits as my mid length gassed Ar's I have built. I have seen others state the issue was improper port size in the past. The current BCM barrels I have shoot lights out, so I can't imagine the BLK being a flub and they are carbine gassed.
  3. Other opinions or agreements? 300 BLK is a different cat from my usual long range and hunting pursuits. I am liking the 120 grain x bullet for hunting, etc and 125 grain sp or smk for general use. 220 subsonic varmints, especially coyotes.
  4. Suppressed bolt gun knowledge I have, but nada when it comes to AR's.
Thanks!
 
Your subs don't necessarily need to be 220gn. Lots of great sub ammo from Maker and Lehigh that are solid copper and not 220gn.



Then for strict 300BLK info, I suggest you go here. It's not very busy, but plenty of knowledge.

 
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Interesting bullet choices! Especially as I will be reloading. The 1:7 twist barrels are looking more attractive with those bullet options. LOTS of new stuff to absorb on that last link. Thanks!
 
Interesting bullet choices! Especially as I will be reloading. The 1:7 twist barrels are looking more attractive with those bullet options. LOTS of new stuff to absorb on that last link. Thanks!

Not a problem. I will say, I bought some Lehigh ME ammo loaded by Underwood that was unstable in both of my rifles. Had poor accuracy and slight key holing. So not sure if it was bullet design, or the loading by Underwood. So I switched to the Hornady Sub X which shoots just fine. I have a box of 190gn Maker Rex I'll probably be trying this next weekend when I finish my shooting bench. But since you reload, you will most likely not have any issues with any bullets you buy from either company.
 
Ok gents, I am currently building a 16" 300 BLK for hunting and varmint control. So far, I have Anderson parts, UBR stock, Wilson M2 trigger and American Defense M-Lok 13.5" handguard. Spikes T2 and CAR buffers on hand. (everything but the suppressor and barrel are currently on hand/on order or built). I know that I need a 1:7 or 1:8 twist barrel, but I have read an array of information on gas length, IE Pistol vs Carbine gas systems for 16" guns. I like the idea of reliability on an array of options. Available 16" barrels seem to favor the carbine gas system despite posts as far back as 2012 or older stating pistol gas is where it is at for such a build. I am focused currently on BCM, Ballistic Advantage modern, and Wilson Recon barrels, but open to suggestions. I do not intend to shoot extremely heavy for caliber subs. 200 - 240 grain subs (Varmints), 110-125 grain supers (hunting) are the plan. Manufacturer, Twist and gas length recommendations are requested. Around $300 is my max budget for this barrel. Also, suppressor recommendations would be good for a QD option for this rifle. Thanks in advance!
White Oak barrels are supposed to be Wilson and from previous experience with a bunch of Wilsons, they all shoot. Usually JSE Surplus stocks a bunch of Wilsons.
 
Interesting bullet choices! Especially as I will be reloading. The 1:7 twist barrels are looking more attractive with those bullet options. LOTS of new stuff to absorb on that last link. Thanks!
If you are going to run the 110 gr bullets, Lil Gun powder is GREAT. I load 19.6 but a lot of guys go up to 20 gr. Very accurate with 110 gr Vmax.
 
So far 1 lb cfe blk 3 lb of H110 on hand. LGS has some on the shelf though!
I haven't tried CFE Black yet but I've heard reports of guys doing well with it. Lil Gun has given me better velo over some others I tried. By far. It's been a very accurate combo with the 110gr Vmax.
 
BCM enhanced fluted w/ carbine gas wins. 242.10 on sale this weekend @ primary arms. Now, ffs, everyone quit panick buying shit. I can't find shit worth buying in 110 - 125 grain hunting bullets.
 
Good deal, I've had good results with the 110 gr Vmax. The 125 gr Ballistic tips will be very accurate but they don't like to open up as well at BO velos. Quite often Shooters Pro Shop will have Blems in them.
 
Going to update this for others looking. The BCM barrel has had issues. YHM gas block, LBE tube. Anderson bolt Brownells spring. Started with a H3 buffer as BCM recommended. Would not cycle anything fed to it. Tested 3 bullets up to max load with H-110, 110 GMX, 110 tac-tx, 110 vmax. dropped to a Spikes T2 buffer, only the tac tx and Vmax functioned. Took the gun home, pulled the gas block. the screw was dead center in the dimple. Tried aligning the block using witness lines, marking center and marking hole location by penciling a ring around the barrel at the rear of the block. Changed screw location just a little upon inspection. Back at the range all 3 reloads functioned with an H1 buffer, BUT sig sauer 125 sonic and 220 grain subsonic would not function even with a CAR buffer.... WTF. Ordered a BCM block spring and gas tube, gas block genie and alignment verification inserts to try. If this does not work I have a $300.00 tomato stake. Almost $100.00 burned in ammo at the moment. The barrel shoots the v max at about an inch, but high winds both trips hindered group testing for the others.
 
Having great luck with Faxon, but it’s not 16”
 
Going to update this for others looking. The BCM barrel has had issues. YHM gas block, LBE tube. Anderson bolt Brownells spring. Started with a H3 buffer as BCM recommended. Would not cycle anything fed to it. Tested 3 bullets up to max load with H-110, 110 GMX, 110 tac-tx, 110 vmax. dropped to a Spikes T2 buffer, only the tac tx and Vmax functioned. Took the gun home, pulled the gas block. the screw was dead center in the dimple. Tried aligning the block using witness lines, marking center and marking hole location by penciling a ring around the barrel at the rear of the block. Changed screw location just a little upon inspection. Back at the range all 3 reloads functioned with an H1 buffer, BUT sig sauer 125 sonic and 220 grain subsonic would not function even with a CAR buffer.... WTF. Ordered a BCM block spring and gas tube, gas block genie and alignment verification inserts to try. If this does not work I have a $300.00 tomato stake. Almost $100.00 burned in ammo at the moment. The barrel shoots the v max at about an inch, but high winds both trips hindered group testing for the others.
What size is your gas hole in the barrel? It really sounds to me like it's too small. Years ago many manufacturers would put .062 holes in their 5.56 barrel with the thought that you would be using the higher pressure 5.56 rounds. A LOT of 223 would not eject/feed. This is easily cured by opening up the gas hole. It's very easy to do, you can buy drill bits that basically step up about .001 at a time. If you have a .062 gas hole, open it up to about .068 and try it. Most 5.56 barrels now have a .070 gas hole now. Just put a cleaning rod in the barrel so you don't hit the opposite barrel wall.
 
I believe the gas port is 0.109. the YHM block had a 0.125 diameter. (measured by inserting 7/64" and 1/8" drill bits). They advertise this barrel as being set up to shoot supersonics with an H2 or H3 buffer and subs with the Car buffer.
 
Faxon or Wilson recon were 2 others I was considering. The Wilson has a pistol gas, but many say the carbine length gas should work. I am willing to test another block, spring, and gas tube to see if that is it. I remember reading somewhere that not all gas tubes are necessarily the same diameter. I may change that and then the spring in series to see if either/both work prior to putting on another block. I also have a gas block genie and indicator being shipped to verify alignment if It goes that far.
 
Faxon or Wilson recon were 2 others I was considering. The Wilson has a pistol gas, but many say the carbine length gas should work. I am willing to test another block, spring, and gas tube to see if that is it. I remember reading somewhere that not all gas tubes are necessarily the same diameter. I may change that and then the spring in series to see if either/both work prior to putting on another block. I also have a gas block genie and indicator being shipped to verify alignment if It goes that far.
OK, I went over your original post, you are shooting without a suppressor? If so and you are waiting on one, the world is going to change when you screw it on. Those loads that don't function now, should with a can on. There is a lot more pressure going to the BCG.
 
I am hoping you are right, but the Sig load with 125 smk's @ 2200 fps should have functioned flawlessly with the H1 buffer. BCM has specific instructions that their barrels should function supers with H2 or H3 and subsonics with no suppressor with a CAR buffer. Parts in hand and thinking over what to try first. I tried 2 lowers that work well with other uppers. I do not think the spring is the issue. The tube may be the next to replace, after I re-align the current tube one last time using the gauges. There is good airflow blowing air through the tube, so I am not sure what the issue is yet.
 
I really think that you are probably over thinking it. I seriously doubt it's your gas tube. Do you have an adjustable gas block on it? If you have a couple loads that run right now, use them until your can gets out of jail. The world will change with it and you get to start all over.
 
Ran it with the CAR and H1 today after installing a new Anderson gas tube and Bravo co gas block using the gas block genie and an alignment "knockout" pin. H1 failed to function 100% yet again. CAR buffer ran all reloads. Did not try subsonic, as I am pretty sure they will fail. At this point anyone looking at 300 BLK I would advise to stick to pistol length gas. Over $100.00 in components burned on this barrel. 5 stellar 5.56 barrels from BCM had me convinced to try this one. Going to call their customer service next week. Gas port was verified as 0.109" Should have worked with 110 grain bullets all moving ~2350 fps ...
Thoughts? Could it be a bolt carrier/receiver fit issue? Fits enough to function, but too tight new to do it well?
 
My 8.5" 300 black out, pistol, has functioned perfectly from the first shot. 220 gr subs at 900 fps, 125 gr supers at 2050. Suppressed supers. Unsuppressed subs. Never touched the adjustable gas block.
 
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This is one of those cases of "it should have worked" by the best information available. Emailed BCM to see if they have a suggestion, or there could be other issues. The BCM M-16 BCG is 11.5 oz same as Anderson. 2 different lowers tried with Wilson M2 TTU's, one with an Anderson tube, and the other a UBR. In desperation I will find a friend with a good drill press and bore out the gas to make it work, but prefer not to invite accuracy issues by possibly chipping the chrome lining. Their chromed ar barrels in 5.56 have given me consitant MOA accuracy with match loads and inside 2" with Most bulk ammo fodder.
 
Pull The upper off the lower. Turn it upside down and unlock the bolt. How smoothly does it slide into and out of battery? Should slide in like a well-lubed... Well, it should just go.
 
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Did this and cleaned it, smooth as silk. Bravo Co. sent me a call tag via email to send them my upper for inspection. They are going to troubleshoot the upper. Glad I didn't stake the gas block screws yet. For just selling me the barrel this seems like a generous offer.
 
Little late for barrel recommendations, but my two 10.5” barrels from Bison armory shoot the 110 Barnes factory and wilson loaded 110 Barnes extremely well. Well under MOA. I don't have any longer 300 BO barrels.
 
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