I have a 1903A3 rifle that was built up from a recovered drill rifle receiver. It's in a Minelli stock. I was at a LGS a few months ago and noticed an original 1903A3 stock for sale. It was marked $39. I bought it, excited to have an original stock for my rifle. When I got home I put the stock away. I pulled the stock out recently and noticed damage by the rear tang. Is this damage repairable? Is this stock usable?
1903A3 stock - is this fixable?
- Thread starter kentuckyMarksman
- Start date
You’re good. That’s only a VERY secondary recoil surface, the primary being behind that giant lug in the front. IF you have NOT already done so, do make sure you have contact up there though.
To fix that chip in the back, there are a lot of ways to go about it. I would personally strip that area, white the hell out of it (but VERY carefully to keep it localized on JUST the chip), then gently rough it up, and finally clean off all the dust, etc. with acetone swabs. I’d use a good UV-safe clear, waterproof structural epoxy like T-88 to fill that area up to, and a little proud of the surrounding walnut, making sure to squish it into the grain, and get a good bond.
Right NOW is when you carefully re-fit the tang into that epoxy block, NOT LATER. Let the T88 set up for 2-3 days or a week, then, if you’re good with one, a rotary grinder, or preferably a mill, can re-inlett that area for your action.
THEN, it’s all hand work to gradually (not rougher than 320) contour it all to match, and polish yhr epoxy to the same shine as the wood. Make your final few minutes with paper in GENTLE fingertip circles on that glass.. probably 400-600 grit.
Then oil it all to return the walnut to what it looked like all around your work.
To fix that chip in the back, there are a lot of ways to go about it. I would personally strip that area, white the hell out of it (but VERY carefully to keep it localized on JUST the chip), then gently rough it up, and finally clean off all the dust, etc. with acetone swabs. I’d use a good UV-safe clear, waterproof structural epoxy like T-88 to fill that area up to, and a little proud of the surrounding walnut, making sure to squish it into the grain, and get a good bond.
Right NOW is when you carefully re-fit the tang into that epoxy block, NOT LATER. Let the T88 set up for 2-3 days or a week, then, if you’re good with one, a rotary grinder, or preferably a mill, can re-inlett that area for your action.
THEN, it’s all hand work to gradually (not rougher than 320) contour it all to match, and polish yhr epoxy to the same shine as the wood. Make your final few minutes with paper in GENTLE fingertip circles on that glass.. probably 400-600 grit.
Then oil it all to return the walnut to what it looked like all around your work.
Last edited:
Stock is fine, that's only a cosmetic defect. Easy fix, cut out and glue in a matching plug.
Thanks!
My Minelli stock has brass pillars installed for the action screws. Would that help prevent further damage?
My Minelli stock has brass pillars installed for the action screws. Would that help prevent further damage?
@kentuckyMarksman
But whatever you do, do NOT mix in sanding dust with your glass. It’ll never take oil anyway, and all you get then is this big, uniform brown colored dog log shitting on your stock.
It’s never GONNA be new again, but a carefully prepped and recontoured and polished bit of clear glass will show the walnut color through itself, and look as close to the surrounding oiled wood as possible.
But whatever you do, do NOT mix in sanding dust with your glass. It’ll never take oil anyway, and all you get then is this big, uniform brown colored dog log shitting on your stock.
It’s never GONNA be new again, but a carefully prepped and recontoured and polished bit of clear glass will show the walnut color through itself, and look as close to the surrounding oiled wood as possible.
