just wondering, what are the guidelines for a good fit on a 1911 between barrel link to slide stop rod and barrel to bushing fit in thousandths of an inch? got a few "factory" guns and checkin dimensions seem a bit sloppy and wondered how tight can they go without making the piece unreliable. also what is the point of a full length spring guiderod. thanks for any replies fellas.
Gunsmithing 1911 tuning
- Thread starter marduk185
- Start date
Re: 1911 tuning
The key to good lock up on a 1911 is that the barrel engages the slide in the hood and upper lug engagement areas firmly. The barrel lower lugs ride on the slide stop to push the barrel into battery. The link can be loose because it should only act as a inge during cycling. This describes the fitting process and will help you undertand the relationship of the parts:
http://how-i-did-it.org/1911-project/the_kart_of_barrel_fitting.html
The full length rod guide is a very contensious issue. Some say it prevents spring binding. Most smiths that build "real world" guns omit them and claim that they cause more problems than they solve. I have guns with both full length and standard guides and see no real advantage to the full length guide.
The key to good lock up on a 1911 is that the barrel engages the slide in the hood and upper lug engagement areas firmly. The barrel lower lugs ride on the slide stop to push the barrel into battery. The link can be loose because it should only act as a inge during cycling. This describes the fitting process and will help you undertand the relationship of the parts:
http://how-i-did-it.org/1911-project/the_kart_of_barrel_fitting.html
The full length rod guide is a very contensious issue. Some say it prevents spring binding. Most smiths that build "real world" guns omit them and claim that they cause more problems than they solve. I have guns with both full length and standard guides and see no real advantage to the full length guide.
Re: 1911 tuning
And...if you have to "field strip" a full length guide rod...3 hands are needed and a fourth to supply beer. Plus Allen wrenches, etc. Mr. John Moses Browning was correct. KISS. JMHO
And...if you have to "field strip" a full length guide rod...3 hands are needed and a fourth to supply beer. Plus Allen wrenches, etc. Mr. John Moses Browning was correct. KISS. JMHO
Re: 1911 tuning
I just had my Kimber converter from full length and have to say I will be changing over my other 1911 next. Makes it a heck of a lot easier to field strip.
Here was the post I made with some pics of the work
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthre...882#Post1995882
I just had my Kimber converter from full length and have to say I will be changing over my other 1911 next. Makes it a heck of a lot easier to field strip.
Here was the post I made with some pics of the work
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthre...882#Post1995882
Re: 1911 tuning
well i acquired one that already had the full length rod and wondered why it was different. also in the above link is pretty informative about the "theory" but pretty lacking in specific dimensions i.e. how many thousandths tolerance of these parts is appropriate. i prefer precise numbers over trial and error fitting. am i way off base?
well i acquired one that already had the full length rod and wondered why it was different. also in the above link is pretty informative about the "theory" but pretty lacking in specific dimensions i.e. how many thousandths tolerance of these parts is appropriate. i prefer precise numbers over trial and error fitting. am i way off base?
Re: 1911 tuning
Most 1911 work/tuning is hand fitting for function.
If you're asking about lug engagement and hood dimensions it'll be just as vague. I've seen quality builds with lug engagements as small as 30 percent and were still rock solid reliable. There's too many variables and your question is too vague I think.
Most 1911 work/tuning is hand fitting for function.
If you're asking about lug engagement and hood dimensions it'll be just as vague. I've seen quality builds with lug engagements as small as 30 percent and were still rock solid reliable. There's too many variables and your question is too vague I think.
Re: 1911 tuning
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: marduk185</div><div class="ubbcode-body">just wondering, what are the guidelines for a good fit on a 1911 between barrel link to slide stop rod and barrel to bushing fit in thousandths of an inch? got a few "factory" guns and checkin dimensions seem a bit sloppy and wondered how tight can they go without making the piece unreliable. also what is the point of a full length spring guiderod. thanks for any replies fellas.</div></div>
I'm am just starting a build with Caspien slide & frame and "gunsmith fitted" parts, and got this from the Jerry Kuhnhausen shop manual. The "gunsmith fitted" parts are over-sized for fitting.
I think Kuhnhausen was referring to factory spec's below, and took an average for reference. These measurements are from my notes and I don't have my shop manual here at this time.
Collet Bushing:
slide I.D. to bushing O.D. - .002" - .004" = .003" average
bushing O.D. to barrel O.D. - .002" - .004" = .003" average
Total clearance average .006"
Non-Collet Bushing:
slide I.D. to bushing O.D. - .002" - .0025" = .0025" average
bushing O.D. to barrel O.D. - .002" - .0025" = .0025" average
Total clearance average .005"
Recommended Clearance for a fitted 1911 = .001"
Get the Kuhnhausen book. Very informative and well written.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: marduk185</div><div class="ubbcode-body">just wondering, what are the guidelines for a good fit on a 1911 between barrel link to slide stop rod and barrel to bushing fit in thousandths of an inch? got a few "factory" guns and checkin dimensions seem a bit sloppy and wondered how tight can they go without making the piece unreliable. also what is the point of a full length spring guiderod. thanks for any replies fellas.</div></div>
I'm am just starting a build with Caspien slide & frame and "gunsmith fitted" parts, and got this from the Jerry Kuhnhausen shop manual. The "gunsmith fitted" parts are over-sized for fitting.
I think Kuhnhausen was referring to factory spec's below, and took an average for reference. These measurements are from my notes and I don't have my shop manual here at this time.
Collet Bushing:
slide I.D. to bushing O.D. - .002" - .004" = .003" average
bushing O.D. to barrel O.D. - .002" - .004" = .003" average
Total clearance average .006"
Non-Collet Bushing:
slide I.D. to bushing O.D. - .002" - .0025" = .0025" average
bushing O.D. to barrel O.D. - .002" - .0025" = .0025" average
Total clearance average .005"
Recommended Clearance for a fitted 1911 = .001"
Get the Kuhnhausen book. Very informative and well written.
Re: 1911 tuning
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: azshooter</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: marduk185</div><div class="ubbcode-body">just wondering, what are the guidelines for a good fit on a 1911 between barrel link to slide stop rod and barrel to bushing fit in thousandths of an inch? got a few "factory" guns and checkin dimensions seem a bit sloppy and wondered how tight can they go without making the piece unreliable. also what is the point of a full length spring guiderod. thanks for any replies fellas.</div></div>
I'm am just starting a build with Caspien slide & frame and "gunsmith fitted" parts, and got this from the Jerry Kuhnhausen shop manual. The "gunsmith fitted" parts are over-sized for fitting.
I think Kuhnhausen was referring to factory spec's below, and took an average for reference. These measurements are from my notes and I don't have my shop manual here at this time.
Collet Bushing:
slide I.D. to bushing O.D. - .002" - .004" = .003" average
bushing O.D. to barrel O.D. - .002" - .004" = .003" average
Total clearance average .006"
Non-Collet Bushing:
slide I.D. to bushing O.D. - .002" - .0025" = .0025" average
bushing O.D. to barrel O.D. - .002" - .0025" = .0025" average
Total clearance average .005"
Recommended Clearance for a fitted 1911 = .001"
Get the Kuhnhausen book. Very informative and well written.
</div></div>
thanks these dimensions are pretty close to some ive taken off my parts, this helps me a bit.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: azshooter</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: marduk185</div><div class="ubbcode-body">just wondering, what are the guidelines for a good fit on a 1911 between barrel link to slide stop rod and barrel to bushing fit in thousandths of an inch? got a few "factory" guns and checkin dimensions seem a bit sloppy and wondered how tight can they go without making the piece unreliable. also what is the point of a full length spring guiderod. thanks for any replies fellas.</div></div>
I'm am just starting a build with Caspien slide & frame and "gunsmith fitted" parts, and got this from the Jerry Kuhnhausen shop manual. The "gunsmith fitted" parts are over-sized for fitting.
I think Kuhnhausen was referring to factory spec's below, and took an average for reference. These measurements are from my notes and I don't have my shop manual here at this time.
Collet Bushing:
slide I.D. to bushing O.D. - .002" - .004" = .003" average
bushing O.D. to barrel O.D. - .002" - .004" = .003" average
Total clearance average .006"
Non-Collet Bushing:
slide I.D. to bushing O.D. - .002" - .0025" = .0025" average
bushing O.D. to barrel O.D. - .002" - .0025" = .0025" average
Total clearance average .005"
Recommended Clearance for a fitted 1911 = .001"
Get the Kuhnhausen book. Very informative and well written.
</div></div>
thanks these dimensions are pretty close to some ive taken off my parts, this helps me a bit.
