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2,000 yard rifle

dtibbals

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jan 3, 2009
320
4
Forney, TX
I have a range that has steel out to 2k yards and my largest rifle is a 6.5. What caliber would you suggest that can get out to 2k with confidence? Is there an off the shelf rifle or do I need to go custom?

My only requests are:
reasonable cost of rifle, say under $3k

Caliber that is readily available, brass, bullets. I don’t want to have to make brass or break the bank reloading or buying ammo.

Prefer a round that can be suppressed, currently have a 7.62 saker and 30P-1. If I’ve got to buy a new can that’s ok but extra points if new caliber will work within what I have already.

Thanks everyone!
 
ARC Nucleus, KRG Bravo, TT special, Accurate mag CIP mags, and a .300 PRC barrel of your favorite flavor, should come in well under $3k.

Ammo/brass is limited for now, but it will ease up as production goes along, still a new offering.
 
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338 Lapua Magnum, and don't forget to get yourself a good shoulder pad and put plenty of money aside for ammo because it will cost you more bucks for the bang.
 
So you want to make hits out to 2,000 yards but with something inexpensive? At One point, something's gotta give. You want ELR performance or cheap reloading components?

I agree with you...I am looking for the best combination between weapon system, caliber and cost. If I can do 2K yards with say a 300 xxx that cost less than a 338 I am all in however if it takes a 338 than ok but what is available for a rifle in my budget and which one of the 338 is the most reasonable cost to shoot.
 
Accuracy is in the barrel, that's why I suggest the 300 PRC in a Nucleus (Normas and Lapuas won't fit). Can put a bartlein barrel on it and run 225-230gr pills that will be easily supersonic to a mile, and will have some viability to push to 2000. I'd take a Bartlein over a factory Ruger barrel any day. Same goes for a Nucleus over a RPR action, and a KRG over a RPR chassis.

Running high BC solids (warner flatlines) will push that effective range a little further, but comes at a price, and may require different barrel specs.
 
Buy the Ruger, Get a custom barrel from LRI.... TOTAL RPR @ Davidson's $1562.00 LRI Match Grade Barrel $675.00 = $2237.00 that leaves $763.00 for accessories Goodluck.
 
Accuracy is in the barrel, that's why I suggest the 300 PRC in a Nucleus (Normas and Lapuas won't fit). Can put a bartlein barrel on it and run 225-230gr pills that will be easily supersonic to a mile, and will have some viability to push to 2000. I'd take a Bartlein over a factory Ruger barrel any day. Same goes for a Nucleus over a RPR action, and a KRG over a RPR chassis.
Running high BC solids (warner flatlines) will push that effective range a little further, but comes at a price, and may require different barrel specs.

There is going to be a fair bit of difference in many things including cost between:

"and will have some viability to push to 2000"
compared to:
" can get out to 2k with confidence"

Repeatable confidence for 2000 yard hits is going to be a different game than can hit at a mile and possibly get out to 2000 yards when everything aligns right.

Scopes, Mounts, Bipods stocks all start to play a much bigger part.
 
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Within the budget that's still the route I'd take. The 225 ELD-M is in a similar ballpark to 300gr .338 bullets for BC, and is being launched at similar MV out of a PRC, if not faster.

Price is similar between a Nuke/KRG and a RPR with an aftermarket barrel. Nucleus has more aftermarket options if you don't like the stock or whatever.

Without going to some of the .375 or 416 options (way out of the budget) I don't know how you could improve hit % substantially.
 
Hi,

OP:
IF you are wanting 2000yd capable at the cheapest you can get just for the sake of saying you have 2000yd capable is completely different than having something you ARE successful at 2000yd with....BIG difference in just that little change of wording.

IMO if you attempt to cheap ELR it would end up costing you more in the long run IF you are getting into ELR to be successful at it instead of capable of it.

For example: you can cheap in rangefinder, only to find out that the 15 feet +/- error of that cheap rangefinder is why you keep going over/under your target. So you will then buy another "level" up rangefinder. Which works until your target size gets small enough or your distance gets great enough that the 5 feet +/- error of that level rangefinder is why you keep going over/under your target. So you finally end up with rangefinder with less than 2ft +/- error margin. $$$

For example: you get cheap bipod, only to find out the flex of it under recoil is why you cannot stay on the target. So you get another level up. Only time find out the adjustments are odd, etc etc. So you finally end up with a true ELR bipod. $$$

And the list goes on and on.....When you change capable for successful (In ELR World) be prepared to drop the word cheap.

Sincerely,
Theis
 
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Now that LRI is doing aftermarket barrels for the magnum RPR you could buy the 338LM and get a barrel spun up for 300NM and decide for yourself which is more capable at 2k.
 
Just remember, settling on a Savage 110BA is like riding a Vespa.

They are fun until your friends see you on them.

Actually, I lie. They aren't fun, or accurate - ever.
 
225 ELDM @ 2925fps (PRC
prc.JPG


225 ELDM @ 3000fps (Norma)
norma.JPG



33fps different at 2000.

This is assuming the same barrel length. A 30" PRC and a 26" Norma are practically identical with 10 grains less powder. I don't like the idea of running Lapua bolt faces on 1.350" receivers (Mausingfield included), but people do it so more power to ya. If you're going to go bigger than 'standard' and get a wider receiver, IMO you're better off going 375 or 416 of some flavor.

YMMV. Run the numbers and do what makes you happy.
 
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The .338 RPR with an LRI would be the best “budget” 2000yd Capable platform with money left over for a good scope. Maybe even a SFP flavor for ELR.
 
338 Lapua, 300 berger @ 2850fps
View attachment 7021324

Not really significantly any better than the other two.

The 300gr is not the best bullet for the 338LM for ELR IMHO. This isn't just a cartridge debate, the OP has a budget limit. By your same metric he would be as well served to buy the RPR in 300 WM as it is not far behind the 300 PRC - and could spin up a LRI replacement for the 300 PRC. 2K can be done with many setups. Rumor has it the 6.5CM will get it done but to do it on a repeatable basis the 300WM is marginal even when its hot rodded. The budget requirement keeps us to fairly established rounds which is why the 338LM and 300NM are consistently mentioned. Time will tell on the 300PRC, with the mil support it should stick around.
 
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Hi,

OP:
IF you are wanting 2000yd capable at the cheapest you can get just for the sake of saying you have 2000yd capable is completely different than having something you ARE successful at 2000yd with....BIG difference in just that little change of wording.

IMO if you attempt to cheap ELR it would end up costing you more in the long run IF you are getting into ELR to be successful at it instead of capable of it.

For example: you can cheap in rangefinder, only to find out that the 15 feet +/- error of that cheap rangefinder is why you keep going over/under your target. So you will then buy another "level" up rangefinder. Which works until your target size gets small enough or your distance gets great enough that the 5 feet +/- error of that level rangefinder is why you keep going over/under your target. So you finally end up with rangefinder with less than 2ft +/- error margin. $$$

For example: you get cheap bipod, only to find out the flex of it under recoil is why you cannot stay on the target. So you get another level up. Only time find out the adjustments are odd, etc etc. So you finally end up with a true ELR bipod. $$$

And the list goes on and on.....When you change capable for successful (In ELR World) be prepared to drop the word cheap.

Sincerely,
Theis

Great points @THEIS. While I've spent the money to be successful at 2k I would say I am more 2k capable. It is hard to locate ranges out to 1k, let alone 1 mile and 2k. If one is not able to practice enough to be proficient, one is lucky to be 2k capable. It doesn't shame me to think of myself as 2k capable instead of 2k successful because even the KO2M guys can struggle at 2k depending on the conditions. It is by no means a slam dunk even with the best equipment it seems. That doesn't discourage me from expending the ammo to try!
 
The 300gr is not the best bullet for the 338LM for ELR IMHO. This isn't just a cartridge debate, the OP has a budget limit. By your same metric he would be as well served to buy the RPR in 300 WM as it is not far behind the 300 PRC - and could spin up a LRI replacement for the 300 PRC. 2K can be done with many setups. Rumor has it the 6.5CM will get it done but to do it on a repeatable basis the 300WM is marginal even when its hot rodded. The budget requirement keeps us to fairly established rounds which is why the 338LM and 300NM are consistently mentioned. Time will tell on the 300PRC, with the mil support it should stick around.

I don't think any of the above (nor the budget) are ideal for 2000yd. But within $3000 I'd rather have a Nucleus or Origin than an RPR action, and the vast array of stock/trigger options available to them vs. the RPR. That's why I suggest the 300 PRC because it fits in the Nuke/origin and is knocking on the door of 300 Norma or 338 Lapua performance. Windage variation is negligible between them, Distance error vs. correction is about the same, all flirting with trans/subsonic speeds at 2k. I don't think you're going to be able to make a 375 CT or 416 happen for 3k.

RPR + aftermarket barrel is 2100-2300
Nuke/Origin+ barrel+ KRG+TT is also 2150-2350
 
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I don't think any of the above (nor the budget) are ideal for 2000yd. But within $3000 I'd rather have a Nucleus or Origin than an RPR action, and the vast array of stock/trigger options available to them vs. the RPR. That's why I suggest the 300 PRC because it fits in the Nuke/origin and is knocking on the door of 300 Norma or 338 Lapua performance. Windage variation is negligible between them, Distance error vs. correction is about the same, all flirting with trans/subsonic speeds at 2k. I don't think you're going to be able to make a 375 CT or 416 happen for 3k.

RPR + aftermarket barrel is 2100-2300
Nuke/Origin+ barrel+ KRG+TT is also 2150-2350

No doubt the Nucleus and Origin actions are a step up from a stock RPR. I doubt I could contain myself to the bottom price if I was trying to build a custom 2k rifle. First the trigger, then the chassis, etc. I would soon end up pushing 5k!:p

ETA: I must credit the RPR for being a great jump in point for the masses as far as long range shooting is concerned. It is still a bargain for what it is and offers due to aftermarket support.
 
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So it’s time for the rookie question of the day. Have a 300RUM sitting on the shelf with all the dies and brass needed to dance with it. She needs a barrel, action trued up and a chassis. She already has a damn nice Timney trigger so on to the question. What does the Norma mag offer in performance that the RUM doesn’t already provide? Seems like a lot of fads out based on the same more efficient Jeffery’s case?
 
So it’s time for the rookie question of the day. Have a 300RUM sitting on the shelf with all the dies and brass needed to dance with it. She needs a barrel, action trued up and a chassis. She already has a damn nice Timney trigger so on to the question. What does the Norma mag offer in performance that the RUM doesn’t already provide? Seems like a lot of fads out based on the same more efficient Jeffery’s case?

The Norma is based off the 338 NM (parent case 338 LM) so it is a larger action/boltface than your RUM. The RUM can be loaded to practically the same specs so not necessarily better in that aspect. However the 300NM is made to feed from magazines so the neck is optimized for that. Also the brass is better quality and should hold up for more firings to the same velocities. The 300NM was designed to be shot long range with 220-230 grain bullets and the chamber is throated appropriately. Your 300RUM was designed for bullets up to 200 grains IIRC and your would be throated appropriately. Not saying you couldn't shoot the heavier bullets but they may be a single shot situation or stuffing them deep into the case to fit in the magazine/throat and not allowing enough case capacity to equal the 300NM. Also I would not recommend using the 700 stock action for the larger diameter cases. That still leaves you with the 300WM, 300RUM, 30 Nosler, and 300PRC which isn't all that bad.
 
The Norma is based off the 338 NM (parent case 338 LM) so it is a larger action/boltface than your RUM. The RUM can be loaded to practically the same specs so not necessarily better in that aspect. However the 300NM is made to feed from magazines so the neck is optimized for that. Also the brass is better quality and should hold up for more firings to the same velocities. The 300NM was designed to be shot long range with 220-230 grain bullets and the chamber is throated appropriately. Your 300RUM was designed for bullets up to 200 grains IIRC and your would be throated appropriately. Not saying you couldn't shoot the heavier bullets but they may be a single shot situation or stuffing them deep into the case to fit in the magazine/throat and not allowing enough case capacity to equal the 300NM. Also I would not recommend using the 700 stock action for the larger diameter cases. That still leaves you with the 300WM, 300RUM, 30 Nosler, and 300PRC which isn't all that bad.

Gotcha and appreciate the info. Be a piece before I grow eneough as a shooter to be effective at that range but watching you guys for info to do it?
 
As others said, it depends whether you're trying to hit the broad side of a barn or tune in the most accuracy we're currently capable of, or something in-between.

If you're worried about ammo cost at all, I'd say you're on a budget and I'd get an RPR and an SFP ATACR and call it a day.

If you're wanting more, then lots of good options have been suggested.
 
This usually goes without saying, but I'll say it anyway... How proficient are you at 1000 with first round impacts on a 1 or 2 moa sized target? If you're not getting >50% first round hits at that distance, 2000 yards will be a complete waste of ammo unless you like shooting expensive rounds with a low hit percentage.

I have learned more shooting a 223/75gr ELDM at my 926 yard range than a $1000 worth of ammo would have at 2k yards.
 
So you want to make hits out to 2,000 yards but with something inexpensive? At One point, something's gotta give. You want ELR performance or cheap reloading components?
It's very true what he said.
ELR can be a frustrating gig at first, if you aren't willing to spend "something" on it. Now understand that it doesn't have to be money & a dollar figure you're spending, but it does have to be at least lots of time, knowledge, patience, and practice.
You can get away with elr for "cheap" but it's limited and it's a diminishing return, with "cheap" equipment.
The case usually ends up being a compromise between time, money, knowledge, practice, and equipment. It's equipment that offers greater capabilities but its equipment that costs money, however, equipment is ONLY PART of the equation.

I have some excellent components and equipment, for shooting 2k yards, and even-so, i sometimes find myself rather frustrated with the results. It's practice, knowledge, environmentals, and experience that become the goal and also the weak link.

-In short-, make due with as "cheap" as you can, To practice, and when YOU are better than the equipment, THEN go buy better equipment.
 
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I would try your 6.5 at 2,000 yards. You are going to learn a lot, and if you are doing the right things, you can be pretty capable at that distance with a short action cartridge. I wouldn't choose it to be competitive, but it's fun and more effective than you may think.

If you feel like you need more cartridge, then I like Ledzep's idea of a .300 PRC in a Nucleus action and KRG chassis.
 
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There's a big difference between the 30s' shown on the charts and the 338 LM if one's goal is to consistently hit (meaning under the best circumstances) at 2000 yards. Both the 30s' go transonic by 1800-1900; the LM remains stably within SS speeds. The transition zone will do 'ya most the time.

It might be nearing 2020, but still there's no free lunch.
 
I have been very fortunate to have several 1000 yard ranges and a 1-mile range where I live. I can tell you I have taken my 260 out to 1mile. shooting a 260 out to 1 mile, it has to be perfectly calm. And getting repeat hits is very hard. Now with my 338 Lapua, it makes one mile pretty easy.
 
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I also own a 260. Hits to 1,792. And I concur with what prebanpaul posted above. The 260 made it but was definitely out of gas
 
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I’ve shot my 260 to 1710 and concur with the above.

That same day we shot a 338 lapua to 1710 and beyond and it was vastly easier to get hits.
 
fast twist 7-300 magnum to stabilize the 180 ELD match bullet.
28 Nosler would also suffice
 
Yeah I was thinking about that. Only issue I have is 338 LM is super expensive to reload.

I'm loading .338LM for just over $1.50 per. It sure is better than $4+ for factory ammo. RPR bone stock usually stays in the low 6s, but some of that is me. You will enjoy it and the standard brake makes it a pleasure. If that cost per ping drives you away - or limits your range sessions - then consider something in .30 caliber. I'm having a blast. No regerts.