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2 Actions, one chassis

slowworm

Low speed, High Drag
Full Member
Minuteman
Oct 21, 2004
352
1,032
New Hampshire
So I was planning to get 2 chassis for 2 rifles I have to replace the factory stocks which are now hindering me.

Today life came along and whacked a chunk out of my slush fund so I can now only afford one. Bugger, but there are folks worse off than I, so I shan't complain.

Since I can only shoot one rifle at a time I figured I could just swap the actions out in the one chassis. Since the scopes stay attached to the receiver the whole time, and if I torque the action screws the same each time, I figured I shouldn't have an issue with losing zero when I do this.

Before I set off doing this I figured I'd check with the brain trust here to see if this will work.

Thanks!
 
It will work but it make take a couple shots to settle.

Why not build 1 rifle for multi use. A 6mm or 6.5 can do just about anything
 
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Why not do a Bighorn with 2 (or all 3) bolt heads, then have 2 (or 3) different barrels spun up. Swap the barrel and bolt head when you want to shoot a different caliber. 1 chassis, 1 good scope and mount....3 different guns (or more if you want to keep adding barrels.)

Because I could buy the action only, no extra boltheads & no barrels and no chassis.

If I could afford all that lot, I could afford 2 chassis. A chassis is around $1000 +/- $200 depending. That's the budget.
 
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am doing something similar with my mdt currently i am using it for a 6.5 creed but when I get to go to a range that longer I am going to use the same chassis with a 7mm saum .
 
Because I could buy the action only, no extra boltheads & no barrels and no chassis.

If I could afford all that lot, I could afford 2 chassis. A chassis is around $1000 +/- $200 depending. That's the budget.


I guess I misunderstood what you meant. I thought you meant you were going to BUY 2 actions and swap them between a chassis. I didn't realize you already had 2 complete rifles.

Sorry. My error.
 
Because I could buy the action only, no extra boltheads & no barrels and no chassis.

If I could afford all that lot, I could afford 2 chassis. A chassis is around $1000 +/- $200 depending. That's the budget.
A factory stock is going to be less of a headache than switching. I know we all like to think equipment holds us back, truth is, rarely is that true.
A good shooter with a factory Savage and a vortex diamondback will outshoot an average Joe with an AI and ZCO.

If you're deadset on 2 different chassis, why not split that budget b/w two? 2 Krg bravos or x-rays for example.
 
What 2 rifles? What usage?

Get the chassis you want for the first one, whichever that is. When you've saved up, get a second chassis.

You can swap the actions into one chassis, but unless you want to verify zero and tweak each time, you'll probably be frustrated. Things are really good these days, but not so good that I wouldn't double check zero every time.
 
Buy once cry once, i wouldn't purchase something you are not happy with (not saying the cheaper products are bad) as in the long run you are going to purchase what you want.
 
Because I could buy the action only, no extra boltheads & no barrels and no chassis.

If I could afford all that lot, I could afford 2 chassis. A chassis is around $1000 +/- $200 depending. That's the budget.
Keep an eye on the PX here. You can probably get 2 chassis' for close to your budget. I got an MPA for $600 here and a MDT for $750.

Otherwise you will be fine, just check zero as stated above
 
Pieter from Impact Shooting in South Africa (awesome YouTube channel) recently expressed his frustrations with something like this. He had a number of different barreled actions in a Remington 700 short-action footprint but only 1 chassis system for that action pattern (he had other chassis' but they were for other actions). So he would constantly swap his competition rifle (6.5), practice rifle (.223) and hunting rifle back and forth into that chassis. While in theory this should work, over the course of a year he had a number of issues in the field that were related to this constant back and forth including screwing up a number of a stages at a match (he is a top-finishing competitor, one of the best PRS shooters around) that he later figured out was action screws that had worked themselves loose.

This is a bit of an extreme example. Because YouTube is his primary source of income and because of the need to create content, he was swapping different rifles into this chassis almost weekly, which I doubt would be the case with you.. But I figured this is something to consider.

Personally, if I needed two stocks/chassis' on a budget, I wouldn't hesitate to pick up two KRG Bravos (assuming your action footprint is supported in the Bravo) for less than the price of a 'normal' chassis and calling it a day. We picked up a Bravo for my son's Howa 1500 and it is, in almost every way, better than my $1200 Manners PRS-1.
 
I recently just went to 1 rifle and swap the barrels around as needed for hunting to target. But if budget is 1000 to 1200 i would look at x-ray or bravo like stated above. You could buy 2 of them
 
Thanks all for the inputs, there is a lot of good information to digest here.

For the rifles, I have a 308 and a 260. Why I want to shoot both? I have enough supplies to burn out the barrel on the 308 and not nearly enough for the 260. So the plan was to shoot the 308 a lot and the 260 less. Once things return to normal (if ever) I'd just shoot the 260 mostly, and maybe change the 308 into a 6mm something or other.

I did consider 2 cheaper chassis, like the Bravo/XRS, but I do like the MDT ACC (played with one) and Magpul Pro 700. I'd never really be happy knowing I bought something else. So I would rather buy one of what I wanted and save up to get the other one.

The bottom line seems to be that when I swap over I need to stop at the 100 yard and check the zero.
 
Thanks all for the inputs, there is a lot of good information to digest here.

For the rifles, I have a 308 and a 260. Why I want to shoot both? I have enough supplies to burn out the barrel on the 308 and not nearly enough for the 260. So the plan was to shoot the 308 a lot and the 260 less. Once things return to normal (if ever) I'd just shoot the 260 mostly, and maybe change the 308 into a 6mm something or other.

I did consider 2 cheaper chassis, like the Bravo/XRS, but I do like the MDT ACC (played with one) and Magpul Pro 700. I'd never really be happy knowing I bought something else. So I would rather buy one of what I wanted and save up to get the other one.

The bottom line seems to be that when I swap over I need to stop at the 100 yard and check the zero.
Checking zero is a good idea but i have taken my rifles out of chassis torqued back the same and the zero stayed dead on
 
I swapped a chassis between two barreled actions for awhile and it became a bit of a hassle. Plus i had one good scope and one ok scope. I have since picked up a Zeus and plan to just switch barrels so I can used my better scope.
 
I’m disappointed that I don’t see a “two girls, one cup” reference.
 
Thanks all for the inputs, there is a lot of good information to digest here.

For the rifles, I have a 308 and a 260. Why I want to shoot both? I have enough supplies to burn out the barrel on the 308 and not nearly enough for the 260. So the plan was to shoot the 308 a lot and the 260 less. Once things return to normal (if ever) I'd just shoot the 260 mostly, and maybe change the 308 into a 6mm something or other.

I did consider 2 cheaper chassis, like the Bravo/XRS, but I do like the MDT ACC (played with one) and Magpul Pro 700. I'd never really be happy knowing I bought something else. So I would rather buy one of what I wanted and save up to get the other one.

The bottom line seems to be that when I swap over I need to stop at the 100 yard and check the zero.

I found that my barrelled actions did really well at holding zero across multiple stocks/chassis. I have done a fair amount of swapping, as I tried different things to find what I liked. I think for your intended use it won't be perfect, but it's not that bad. You'll get a lot of good recoil management practice with the .308 and the ACC, then before a match, swap the BA and you're good to go. You will eventually be on the way to a match with the wrong BA installed, but Proper Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance!

Good luck.
Ross
 
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