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Gunsmithing 22lr m249 saw NOW WITH VIDEO

buffalowinter

Freer of the Oppressed
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  • Mar 17, 2014
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    Llano, TX
    After seeing other peoples work I decided to build an M249 saw replica in .22LR...just for fun. Here is the finished product:



    I started out as a broken Airsoft M249 and a Marlin 60 ($55), shown here:


    I chose the Marlin 60 because of its tube feed. It was easier to hide and easier to access. There is no good way to hide and have ready access to a box magazine. I used the trigger from a Mauser 98 and modified it to actuate the Marlin sear. The biggest problem was how to access the bolt release...it was situated right above the trigger housing axle. There was no good way to access the bolt release. Finally, I hit upon what Col. Kalashnikov realized...who needs it. I ground off the bolt stop, so the action closes on an empty magazine...who cares, one less thing to break or go wrong. I pillar bedded the whole thing and re-drilled the action to take larger bolts.





    I fit the original SAW bolt handle to the Marlin:



    I did a lot of work on the gas tube assembly. I had to cut it in two and attach half to the barrel and the other half to the chassis:



    I did extensive milling to the carry handle shroud to get the Marlin to fit inside it:



    Finally, I added a muzzle brake...yes I know it's the wrong kind, but I wanted to add some length to the barrel.



    An Airsoft EOTECH sight...works great for .22 , a Picatinny upper hand-guard, rail covers, modified lower hand-guard, re-mounted rear sight (also incorrect), and flip up front sight (again, incorrect). The whole thing weighs about 15 pounds and hefts like a real saw (near as I can remember):



    And, lastly, the real thing. One of the first M249's issued to the Army. SF units were the first units to be fielded new small arms. This photo was taken in 1987, 10th SFG(A).


     

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    It shoots just like a Marlin Model 60:) It shoots fine, I haven't shot it for groups yet, just function fire...but I shoot at a 12" steel plate at about 25 yds for function testing and it rings the plate every time. I noticed that I seemed to have about a 6 inch group for thirty rounds on the plate and that's firing fast, offhand, with an EOTECH just testing function and not really caring about groups size. I do have some final tweaking to do on the size of the ejection port. I've had a couple empties hit the forward edge of the SAW frame and bounce back into the action and jam it up.
     
    We could definitely be friends if you are interested. Geeze, see what happens when you let an old Green Been play with machines!?
     
    Here's the .22lr SAW in action. Shot on my cattle ranch, into a closed pasture with a large mountain as the back-stop.

    [video=youtube_share;lWg-eMtJASs]http://youtu.be/lWg-eMtJASs[/video]
     
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    that's cute. j/k

    nice job on the custom trigger

    now try a .22LR M240 and .22LR M60. i did a M60E4 as well

    9386510108_9a504c8a9e_z.jpg


    9378749111_4088270c99_z.jpg


    8418575164_7d520855d5_c.jpg
     
    can you explain how you customized that trigger? or take pics?

    i need to do that to a couple of my Marlin 60's and 795's
     
    The BAR is definitely on my list.

    Defcon, the trigger is from a Mauser 98. I used this because I have several on hand and it is a very long trigger. First I pillar bedded the action...this determines trigger position. There is a lot of room to work with, so it's not too critical. You can see in the pictures above that there is a 90 degree elbow attached to the back of the trigger. This is done by trial and error, but I swagged it and got it right in one try. The round bar stock was heated on one end and pounded flat to form a little paddle to better make contact with the Marlin sear. The round elbow is silver soldered into a hole I drilled in the back of the Mauser trigger. I used a blank screw for the trigger axle and drilled and tapped it through the SAW chassis...then permanently attached it with a small dab of acra-glass on either end. There are two round shims on either side of the trigger so it doesn't wobble. These shim/tubes are actually cut from a Dillon small primer tube. The trigger return spring, shown in the pic's above, is attached to the rear bedding washer by a screw and slipped over the top end of the trigger bar...this keeps the trigger under tension so it doesn't flop around.
     
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    that is just plain neat! I can't think of a single reason I need one but I sure as hell want one...lol really nice work!