The standard sps barrel length is 26", if you were going to cut it down to 24", using a lathe obviously, how would you maintain the integrity of the rifling at the muzzle, and also recrowning the barrel??
Gunsmithing 26" to 24"
Re: 26" to 24"
Saw off 1 7/8" in a power band saw
Chuck up in your lathe (I use a 4 jaw chuck [I use a guage pin in the muzzle to indicate to ] and a "spider" at the back of the headstock indicate to your tolerances)
Face off until smooth
Cut recess / crown
Chamfer OD
Deburr
If your turning tool is set correctly you should not have any damage to the inside of the barrel. For that kind of operation I usually set mine at a 45 degree angle to clean up the face / muzzle.
Saw off 1 7/8" in a power band saw
Chuck up in your lathe (I use a 4 jaw chuck [I use a guage pin in the muzzle to indicate to ] and a "spider" at the back of the headstock indicate to your tolerances)
Face off until smooth
Cut recess / crown
Chamfer OD
Deburr
If your turning tool is set correctly you should not have any damage to the inside of the barrel. For that kind of operation I usually set mine at a 45 degree angle to clean up the face / muzzle.
Re: 26" to 24"
What Victor said. However, I use a cut off tool on my tool post to trim the length.
If you do not have a rear spider, you can build a fixture and turn between centers. This would be a piece of round stock with the barrel riding on 8 bolts. 4 in the front and 4 in the rear of the fixture. This way you can dial it in.
Also, since most 4 jaw chucks have flat jaws, the barrel tends to want to bend when you are indicating it in using a rear spindle spider. This can solved with either a chuck side spider or a small rounded bushing fit over the barrel where the chuck would contact it.
This type of operation whether threading the muzzle or crowning is really a specialized job in machine work and to do a quality job in a reasonable amount of time, you need to machine the right fixtures for each thing you do.
I did see Daryl Holland in a video use a pilot crowning tool on one of his builds. It had a pilot bushing with a 45 degree chamfer behind it. He chucked it up in the tailstock and ran it in the muzzle. It looked like a deburring tool for a screw hole.
What Victor said. However, I use a cut off tool on my tool post to trim the length.
If you do not have a rear spider, you can build a fixture and turn between centers. This would be a piece of round stock with the barrel riding on 8 bolts. 4 in the front and 4 in the rear of the fixture. This way you can dial it in.
Also, since most 4 jaw chucks have flat jaws, the barrel tends to want to bend when you are indicating it in using a rear spindle spider. This can solved with either a chuck side spider or a small rounded bushing fit over the barrel where the chuck would contact it.
This type of operation whether threading the muzzle or crowning is really a specialized job in machine work and to do a quality job in a reasonable amount of time, you need to machine the right fixtures for each thing you do.
I did see Daryl Holland in a video use a pilot crowning tool on one of his builds. It had a pilot bushing with a 45 degree chamfer behind it. He chucked it up in the tailstock and ran it in the muzzle. It looked like a deburring tool for a screw hole.
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