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Suppressors 2nd can and accuracy

Bmoore0062

Sergeant of the Hide
Full Member
Minuteman
Sep 30, 2018
141
45
Cincinnati, OH
So just getting into Precision shooting have an AAC 7.62 SD for some time.

I have grown to notice that it has minimum POI shift and is very repeatable. Only thing is my groups open up when shooting. Take my easily sub 1/2 moa rifle and makes it pretty difficult to keep under sub moa, always seem to throw one round. At first I thought it was me throwing the shot in a string. But after doing some testing shooting with it on and off my groups are significantly opening up shooting suppressed.

Huge bummer, is this normal? Now torn between wanting to shoot non - suppressed.... frown face....I know my can is dated.

Also, any recommendation on a second supressor? I hear a lot of people talk about Cans repeatability and poi shift. But I wanna know how they group.

Thanks in advance.
 
I have a TBAC Ultra 9 and I have no change in accuracy. 1/4 to 1/2 MOA. 3 of the 4 guns I run it on have no POI change either. Short 300 BLK POI is 1.5in different.
I have been looking at the ultra 7 and 9. At the current moment it is at the top of my list. Holding out a bit because when I bough my first supressor years ago it was like buying a TV, before I actually got my supressor from the atf so many better supressors came out.

I have notice POI shift Apears to be more dependent on the barrel than the supressor. My biggest hang up if I got with the ultra is the 7 or the 9? I know there is not much weight gained but just wonder if the short supressor would be nicer since I would be running it on a 26” rifle.
 
It can have something to do with the weight on the end of your barrel changing harmonics. It can also have something to do with the flow through the suppressor disturbing the bullet. If you have a long lightweight profile barrel it is very likely the weight causing your trouble. Its very hard to tell which it is though shooting with and without the can will obviously tell you the can is or isn't the problem.

Frank
 
It can have something to do with the weight on the end of your barrel changing harmonics. It can also have something to do with the flow through the suppressor disturbing the bullet. If you have a long lightweight profile barrel it is very likely the weight causing your trouble. Its very hard to tell which it is though shooting with and without the can will obviously tell you the can is or isn't the problem.

Frank

Thanks, I’m siding with the can. Exactly what you said I think is the issue. I think it’s the air flow within the supressor disrupting the bullet. Because I will get 3 or 4 rounds touching, then I will get 1 or 2 rounds it will throw off. I have elimanted it is not me. Because I am easily shooting under 1/2 moa without the can. I’m shooting an hawk hills custom barrel, marksman contour which is their heaviest barrel.
 
It can have something to do with the weight on the end of your barrel changing harmonics. It can also have something to do with the flow through the suppressor disturbing the bullet. If you have a long lightweight profile barrel it is very likely the weight causing your trouble. Its very hard to tell which it is though shooting with and without the can will obviously tell you the can is or isn't the problem.

Frank
This right here. My 308 AR does the exact same thing with my SDn6. Shoots consistent good groups unsuppressed then opens up with the can on, throwing fliers. I need to develop a load for that gun with the can on.
 
I have a TBAC Ultra 9 and I have no change in accuracy. 1/4 to 1/2 MOA. 3 of the 4 guns I run it on have no POI change either. Short 300 BLK POI is 1.5in different.

Same experience here. I did get spoiled with the brake mount installed many months before the can. When I first got my Ultra 9, my groups opened because of my reliance on the brake and poor form ( like when I learned rubberized nunchucks as a kid, then switched to real ones....?) As soon as I corrected my form, my grouping was as good or better.
 
This right here. My 308 AR does the exact same thing with my SDn6. Shoots consistent good groups unsuppressed then opens up with the can on, throwing fliers. I need to develop a load for that gun with the can on.

I have spent quite a bit of time trying develope a load for my .308. I have not had any luck so far.
 
These cans 51T by chance? I know that SDN6 is.

I have 2 SDN6's and 2 556SD's. All four use 51T mounts. I use 'em mostly on SBR's now and have two M4's that have 'em blind pinned on. These are NOT precision cans. They're hard use cans for M4's and such mostly. Good for SBR's too. The cans are nice and well made, but the mount is just shit and they never would listen to anyone and that's why they went out of business (rather sold out to Remington). Those mounts will do everything from fit tight, to wiggle a little, wiggle a lot or even wobble on the end that'll just guarantee endcap strike. I used to fix 'em using a honing stone, a good eye and six hours. That'll make 'em lock up tight if you know what you're doing. A lathe would be better.

But I found the best option is to buy ten mounts per rifle/can and select the one(s) that you wanna keep, the ones that fit tight. Out of ten mounts, you should find one or two that fits tight (but may hit shit luck and have to send 'em all back and do it over). Ten per usually do it for me. This helps if the can has wiggle to it. If it fits tight it'll simply cause less disturbance/problems. Sell the ones you currently have on here, they may work for somebody. It's what I did.

Being a "dated design" doesn't mean much, at least not always. The guts haven't changed that much with respect to baffle designs. New cans are still made like that. I have a book from the 60's that shows some of the modern designs still in use today. The SDN6 is STILL one of the better hard use .300BLK cans out there. The 556SD is barely 6", if that, off the end of the mount and works "proportionately" on an M4. Works well on SBR's too. The brake mount is best and actually works as a brake, the Breakout 2.0 is next works okay, but stay away from the 3 prong flash hider --they sound like a tuning fork when fired since all 3 tines are identical. These AAC cans in general work well with SBR's due to them not being "precise" enough in one area or another for use on longer rifles. Though some folks still make 'em work and a tight mount is necessary.

TBAC is a precision can. I've got 3 of them, an older 30CB9, a 6.5 Ultra 9 and a .30 Ultra 5. With the Ultra, it was a full 4dB's quieter than the 30CB9 so there was a big change there. They just came out with a new .338 can but the Ultra will be around for a while yet as far as I know. The Ultra is not only quiet, it's also light and it uses a thread over brake, so it's similar to a thread on but better. I love my TBAC's. Best CS in the industry, they're always on here helping folks, answering questions, etc. Excellent warranty though I haven't had to deal with that. I bought the 30CB9 literally the month before the Ultra came out, was a bit sore about it, mentioned it to Zak and he immediately squared me away on that 6.5 Ultra 9 for a killer deal. I got the Ultra 5 a bit later based on that deal (and Ultra's performance) at regular price. It's awesome on a .300BLK SBR with subs and works well to keep the noise down with full size rifles while not being long. The 9" is where the performance is at. Light, quiet, etc. POI shift is repeatable and groups can actually tighten up, depending.

Elite Iron makes a can similar to TBAC but out of SS. They use a thread over brake and they make the brakes for Harris rifles. They made my .50 HTI brake such that it needs no shims to go on TDC. The can is likewise indexed TDC so POI shift is not only repeatable, but it's vertical too. These cans weigh more, he uses 316SS, but there's enough cut out it's lighter than you think. I use their .50 and have their .338 can (don't have the rifle yet). Built like tanks and they work, prices are good if that's an issue too. Especially for what you get. TBAC is a lot lighter though, and may be quieter, I have no way of comparing like cans side by side. It's just an option though for another precision can that uses a thread over brake.

There are others but these I have more experience with and consider to be more precision oriented with their thread over brake mounts.
 
I have spent quite a bit of time trying develope a load for my .308. I have not had any luck so far.
I ran 5 rounds of my pet load for my 308 bolt gun in the 308 AR suppressed just to see if the group would hold. It looked very promising on steel but when I picked up my brass I noticed light ejector swipes. So I'm hoping I can get an accuracy node at a lower charge with that gun. Haven't had time to try though
 
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I ran 5 rounds of my pet load for my 308 bolt gun in the 308 AR suppressed just to see if the group would hold. It looked very promising on steel but when I picked up my brass I noticed light ejector swipes. So I'm hoping I can get an accuracy node at a lower charge with that gun. Haven't had time to try though
Could it be that your blaster is overgassed?
 
If your at all planning on shooting any prs type comps in the future I would probably lean much heavier towards the ultra 7, especially with a 26" barrel. That thing can be unwieldy and I just feel like I'm trying to maneuver a 20lb javelin inside of shoothouses. I love my ultra 9 for just shooting from the bench, I'd probably use it more if I had some land or was shooting by myself more, but I just much prefer the ultra 7 for comps. I've actually gone to 24" barrels and find the ultra 7 on the 24" tube is just about perfect for me.

My exact thoughts! Leaning towards the Ultra 7 just for those reasons. Do you own a 7 and a 9?
 
I second what stryker said above. My first 51t flash hider/mount was throwing things off significantly. I replaced it with a new one and things immediately improved. I think something was actually out of alignment there. My theory is that it was very close to a baffle strike that never happened, but was close enough to disturb the flight of bullet. First thing I do now is check any rifle I am putting a 51t mount on for A) tightness of lockup and lack of wobble and B) alignment including the ends of the wobble range.

You can buy alignment rods online. If you want to save some $ a non-precise substitute that seems to work well is a carbon arrow shaft. They do have runout tolerances, fit a 30 cal bore relatively well and will give you an idea. If that shows any doubt, get a real gauge.