Range Report 300 blackout bullets: light, medium or heavy?

[Sincerd]

so besides the obvious sub vs supers. What do you guys think about say

110 grain vs 125 grain
125 vs 150
150 vs 168

As far as it relates to 300 blackout. Moving up in weight drops velocity very quickly in 300. I'm sure its OK, with say...barnes $1.25 a shot bullets but what about the cheaper smks, tmks, amaxs and the such? Since we are not shooting these bullets 500+ yards. Would it always be beneficial to run lighter bullets to get them up to speed? Is there any situation the mid / heavy super range is better?

 

[Sniperwannabee]

ive shot 125 hornady agunners out to 800 yds with a 18" Ar with surprising results. Was able to hit an 18" gong no problem about 15mils elevation

 

[Sincerd]

So further ranges can be achieved. Any opinion on the ballistics side of things?

 

[MotorOilMcCall]

I'm curious why you're using a 300BO for a range/target gun?

The round is usually used more as a PDW round (sub's typically), or hunting round. Not really target work, not that its not capable of it. Personally, I would pick the role of the gun, and choose my bullets off of that, then optimize around that bullet.

 

[Sniperwannabee]

I'm curious why you're using a 300BO for a range/target gun?

The round is usually used more as a PDW round (sub's typically), or hunting round. Not really target work, not that its not capable of it. Personally, I would pick the role of the gun, and choose my bullets off of that, then optimize around that bullet.

Yep I use mine to hunt hogs and deer. so I wanted to see how far I can remain on target just for fun and for a challenge. It was fun showing up at the range with a AR in 300 aac and hit targets at 800 while other shooting 6.5 308 224 val and 260 couldn’t haha

 

[Greg Langelius *]

While any chambering can be shot seriously for target work, some are better, and some are marginal.

The 300BO fits in here somewhere, and if I were interested in subs, I'd shoot it. I'm not, so it's not in my array.

If I did want to shoot subs, I'd do it easier with the 7.62x39 in a .308 barrel. I think I'd like to find some 7.62x39 barrels with 308 bores, but that's not such an easy task.

For subs, heavy only, and honestly, I'd stick to RN, no advantages to using any HPBT.

I shoot the 6.5 Grendel for target, still having fits with it.

All of these chamberings appeal to my minimalist streak.

If I want to hit something with smaller chamber capacities, I use the .223.

For a bigger whack, the .308.

For way out, the 260.

For ELR, I'd use the 280AI, but I don't shoot it because I don't shoot ELR.

Greg

 

[Sincerd]

I'm curious why you're using a 300BO for a range/target gun?

The round is usually used more as a PDW round (sub's typically), or hunting round. Not really target work, not that its not capable of it. Personally, I would pick the role of the gun, and choose my bullets off of that, then optimize around that bullet.

I personally don't. I use a 6mm Cm. What I'm wondering is, are the light 110 projectiles always better than say the 165s. I happen to have a lot of midweight 308 bullets. And from what I can see the velocity is better than the extra weight. Especially inside 200. That is what I'm hoping someone can shed some more light on. Is velocity in this situation, better than weight. Maybe even as far as, how much is velocity better than weight.

 

[Sniperwannabee]

Haha you must have missed that day in school Newton’s 2 law

 

[Sincerd]

Understanding the ideas behind a law ( which is actually a theory) vs how it applies in this situation is two different things. Is 50 grains worth 700 fps? I have no idea.

 

[MotorOilMcCall]

Haha you must have missed that day in school Newton’s 2 law

Not sure how F=MA (newtons second law) has anything to do with bullet selection, outside of felt recoil... the acceleration on the receiving end of the bullet has a lot of factors that can widely change the felt force. Energy on the other hand, is easier to calculate, since it only relies on the target containing the shot (not passing through, which would result in wasted energy of the bullet. The force on a piece of armor plate is much higher than if it hit soft tissue for example, but the end effect to the target is drastically different (and in this case, the armor plate target has almost infinitely higher felt force, but walks away, while the lower input force is likely killed). The energy both targets feel however, is the same, assuming the bullet does not pass entirely through the soft target.

Velocity is much more important than weight/mass in most scenarios. KE = 1/2*mass*velocity^2... and P (momentum) = mass*velocity
In terms of energy, a 110gr bullet at 2000fps has a bit more energy than a 165gr bullet at 1500fps (~975ft-lbs versus ~825ft-lbs)
The guy wearing the armor plate is going to get more of a "push" from the smaller, faster bullet, than the heavier, slower bullet...

That said, to answer Sincerd's question, it all depends on what you want to do with said projectile, they aren't all created the same. A light partition round will basically explode on impact of soft tissue, causing incredible damage, but without major penetration (hence why its great on smaller game that doesn't require penetrating a thick hide). Conversely, a heavy, solid projectile, or thick FMJ bullet, will penetrate deep, but with little to no expansion, and risks a lack of energy transfer into the target (it passes through cleanly).

So again, what do you intend to do with the gun/load. If varmint hunting, a light bullet is great, flat shooting, and with the high velocity, will drop the animal cleanly assuming it's expending all it's energy in the target (PSP/Partition). Hog or deer hunting, you'll want something a bit heavier 110gr-150gr, with a bit slower expansion (JHP or Tipped hunting bullet, like the ELD-X or the likes).

 

[Sniperwannabee]

300 Blackout 208 gr A-MAX® Hornady BLACK® - Hornady Manufacturing, Inc

...

www.hornady.com

https://www.hornady.com/ammunition/rifle/300-blackout-135-gr-ftx#!/

300 Blackout 110 gr GMX® Full Boar® - Hornady Manufacturing, Inc

...

www.hornady.com

tells you the ft/lbs of energy at particular distance

i alway used hornady 110 with great success with big deer and hogs just like the website recommends up to 300lbs

 

[SBRSarge]

Just to add more variables, if you’re interested in velocity, a fellow on the 300blk forum has safely gotten 3000fps out of the Maker 85gr OverWatch bullet with his handloads.

Maker’s factory 85gr loads in my 6” SBR averaged 2222 fps. For comparison, the 110gr Barnes load gives me 1968 fps. Both of these is with an AAC 762-SDN-6 on the end.

Personally, with all my shooting being within 200yds, I like the lighter rounds In supersonics. I hunt with the Barnes 110gr load, but might be giving the 85gr a try next season. Both play nice in my guns and satisfy my expectations from the caliber. I don’t target shoot with the 300blk, so cost isn’t a factor for me.

 

[Snuby642]

220g subs are quiet and fun at 50-100yds if you have a can, no earpro needed.
A nice round to start a noob on .
No recoil or noise and 1 moa.

12.1 cfeblk 220g hornady fbrn.

 

[NighthawkCG]

As others have said/asked, what is you mean by 'better'?

I'm with MotorOil on this one. Have a 16" bolt and 10" gas gun in blackout. I generally get the below speeds:

110 Barnes - ~2425 fps
125 Nos BT - 2160 fps
150 Fiocchi factory is rated at like 1950 fps

If it is terminal ballistics you are looking for, then you need to specify on what target and at what range so we can say X will be better than Y. However, without that, it is a bit tough to give a recommendation. Take into consideration the expansion velocities of the bullets and use that in conjunction with MV and BC to figure out if the bullet you are thinking of using will be effective at the range you are intending to shoot. I think the mid range 110-125 are kind of a sweet spot with things in balance.

I also agree with Snuby - subs are great and in most of my applications better than supers. Quiet and challenging out to a few hundred years.

 

[GetReal]

I'm looking for something in the 125 - 150 gr range with a boattail, cuz I hate flaring then crimping case mouths for square base bullets.

Strictly target ammo. I don't hunt. Sig MCX 300BLK SBR.

 

[NighthawkCG]

I'm looking for something in the 125 - 150 gr range with a boattail, cuz I hate flaring then crimping case mouths for square base bullets.

Strictly target ammo. I don't hunt. Sig MCX 300BLK SBR.

The 125 Nosler Ballistic tips do pretty well. I don't flare the case and the load and shoot just fine. Shoot pretty well too.

 

[Snuby642]

None of the "flat base" rifle bullets I have used needed the case mouth flaired.
There is at least a small rounding or small chamfer and when you trim and debur rifle brass that leaves a chamfered inside edge as well.

My handgun dies bell the mouth since trimming is not required.

 

[bmash]

I use the 110 Barnes with great results on deer and hogs. In an AR with collapsible stock for length of pull, it works really well with the younger grandkids deer hunting. I limit them to 150 yards since they aren’t capable of further anyway. I do consider using a different, ie cheaper, bullet but I just don’t shoot enough critters to worry with changing. And as above no need to flare for loading. I just inside chamfer and load away.

 

[Wiscat]

Following this thread. I'm getting into blackout with a 9" ar(Suppressed) and a 16" light bolt gun(suppressed hunting).

 

[ThatGuy101]

I guess this fits here, but let me know if there is another location better suited. 300 Blackout brass selection; I am just researching at this point. I see all kinds of information on .223/5.56 brass used; ok, got it, but 5.56 NATO brass being thicker walled than .223 leading to NATO having higher pressure. Knowing all external dimensions are all the same, only difference is internal capacity and thickness; what is the wisdom on load development? Velocity, accuracy, pressure issues etc. Thank you for your guidance.

 

[Sincerd]

I guess this fits here, but let me know if there is another location better suited. 300 Blackout brass selection; I am just researching at this point. I see all kinds of information on .223/5.56 brass used; ok, got it, but 5.56 NATO brass being thicker walled than .223 leading to NATO having higher pressure. Knowing all external dimensions are all the same, only difference is internal capacity and thickness; what is the wisdom on load development? Velocity, accuracy, pressure issues etc. Thank you for your guidance.

Not sure what tour asking. It was unclear but no. 556 lc brass is the best brass to convert to 300 blackout. Its thickness is about .011 vs something like pmc brass which won't work at .014. If i get a big bucket of mixed brass, I pull out the fc/lc and convert it.

For super powder nothing will get you faster velocity for light supers than h110 or 300mp

For subsonic, I like VV n110 and n120. N110 is cleaner. N120 has better case fill so it gives better es/sd. Both a very accurate.

 

[Guns&WhiteWater]

I personally don't. I use a 6mm Cm. What I'm wondering is, are the light 110 projectiles always better than say the 165s. I happen to have a lot of midweight 308 bullets. And from what I can see the velocity is better than the extra weight. Especially inside 200. That is what I'm hoping someone can shed some more light on. Is velocity in this situation, better than weight. Maybe even as far as, how much is velocity better than weight.

Target shooting, strictly speaking. Inside of 200 yards, despite the higher velocity of around 2350-2400 FPS of the lighter Barnes 110’s, Berger 115’s, etc., the drift and energy are fairly even with the heavier Seirra 175’s and such, even when they are limping along at only 1750ish. But when I’ve taken them out to 500 for giggles, the heavier bullets seemed to drift by about half as much and hit noticeably harder. When I hit anything, that is. The lighter bullets are a whole lot flatter shooting of course. The heavies kind of drop out of the sky.

No personal experience on the terminal performance of any of it on game. But I’d go with the Barnes 110’s loaded hot and keep it inside 100. The ones I’ve recovered from jugs were picture perfect mushrooms. I just don’t like dragging deer up the steep hills we hunt in so I mostly use a 308.

 

[ThatGuy101]

Not sure what tour asking. It was unclear but no. 556 lc brass is the best brass to convert to 300 blackout. Its thickness is about .011 vs something like pmc brass which won't work at .014. If i get a big bucket of mixed brass, I pull out the fc/lc and convert it.

For super powder nothing will get you faster velocity for light supers than h110 or 300mp

For subsonic, I like VV n110 and n120. N110 is cleaner. N120 has better case fill so it gives better es/sd. Both a very accurate.

Thank you. Sorry if question was mixed, I have been trying to word so Google would get me where I need to be.
Everything I have found says either can be used for black, but nothing really provide any data on why. That's the part I like about handloading, is learning or figuring why something does or doesn't work.
You answered the main question, I have alot of NATO brass laying around.

 

[raptor99]

I have a 16" and it is a hammer with the 110VMAX!! I have loaded 220ELDM for subsonic loads and they shoot really well too. The110 at around 2400 will kill most things you want to shoot with it from deer on down.....